Burn Dry Wood to Stay Warm, Save Money, and Be Safe

As you relax in front of your Yule Log this week, enjoying both its warmth and the savings that it brings to you, take a moment now to plan on making next year’s firewood 20 proof or less. You might ask- what does that mean and why should I care? Well, wood that is greater than 20% moisture content (or proof) will not burn efficiently, and that will mean wasted heat and increased risk of a chimney fire.

OK, so how do you get your wood down to 20 proof or less? By giving it time and space to dry; here’s how:

1. Nine to 12 months before you need the firewood- cut, split, and stack wood in piles that are one log deep and spaced one log length apart.
2. Cover the top of the pile with plastic to keep the rain out and keep the bottom layer up off the ground to increase air circulation (which also helps keep snakes away).

And in the fall, use your kitchen oven and some math to measure your wood’s moisture content; to determine what “proof” it is.

Cut a small (1” thick) piece from the middle of several logs from different sections of the pile. Use a kitchen scale to determine the fresh weight (in ounces) and then record it for each piece. Dry the pieces in your oven set at 200 to 250 degrees until their weight no longer changes; that could take 12-24 hours. Weigh each piece again and record the dry weight of each piece. The difference between each piece’s fresh and dry weights tells you how much water was in the wood. Divide the weight of the water by the dry weight of the wood to find the moisture content of the wood in your pile. Wood is ready to burn when the moisture content is 20 percent or less.

For example, for each piece subtract its dry weight (let’s say 5 ounces) from its fresh weight (say 5 ¾ ounces), then divide the answer (3/4 or 0.75) by the dry weight (5) and multiply that answer (0.15) by 100 (equals 15 proof wood). So … the math formula would be [(5.75 – 5)/5]*100 = 15 proof wood. This wood is dry enough to burn.

Tip for parents- Clip and save this article for the next time your kids ask you what good is math anyway. Being able to do the math above promotes efficient wood burning that helps the environment, saves you money, and reduces chances of a chimney fire!

See many more tips on Forest Stewardship at http://vip.cas.psu.edu/News.html or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Dead Trees Bring Life

If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? This is a question asked for ages, and no matter the philosophical answers debated, a fallen tree may have uses no one sees. Trees have countless uses for humans. They offer shade, filter the air, and add value and beauty to the home landscape. Trees stabilize the soil and even produce food for us. When a tree is cut, it can be transformed into fuel, made into furniture, form the structure of our homes, and without trees, a newspaper could not be written, produced, or read.

Dead trees have a useful and special value, not for us but for wildlife. Dead parts of live trees, which are called 'snags', and fallen trees, referred to as 'logs' become important resources in nature. They become food and shelter for a number of species. As a tree decomposes, it recycles itself into the soil. The process enriches the soil and makes conditions favorable for the next generation of seedlings.

Logs become shelter for many layers of life. Insects, salamanders, mice and other small creatures seek refuge there. Other woodland life feed off them. Some grouse have been known to raise generations on the same logs. As the wood decays, it increases the mushroom population. During the harsh winter months, mushrooms are an important food source for birds, squirrel, and deer.

Snags, or standing dead trees, offer a nesting place for thirty-five species of birds. Wood ducks look for tree cavities near water. Barn owls look for nesting sites near large fields. Chickadees, sapsuckers, and woodpeckers make beneficial use of snags. As insects invade a dead tree, they attract turtles, shrews, salamanders, and bats among others, to sustain their life. One bat can consume thousands of mosquitoes while we slumber away.

While it may not always be feasible to keep dead trees on your property, some consideration should be given to sustaining the life we don’t see. On a smaller scale, brush piles, or even a post-season live Christmas tree set outside can create a haven for wildlife. Just because we don’t hear a sound doesn’t mean sounds are not being made.

For more information on this topic, The Penn State Master Gardeners have the publication 'Dead Wood for Wildlife'. Please contact us at 570-963-9642 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request your free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Caring for a Real Christmas Tree

Last week we talked about selecting a fresh Christmas tree; here are some tips to help you keep it fresh through the holiday season. For best results, follow these tips from the time you purchase your tree until you remove it from your home.

• Use a tree stand that holds 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter and keep the water level above base of tree at all times. The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important.
• Tree trunk too wide for the tree stand? Buy a larger stand, do NOT whittle the trunk!
• Storing a tree for a few days? Put trunk in water and store in a cool, shaded and protected area.
• More than 12 hours since harvest? Cut off about ¼” from the base to improve water uptake. Do not angle or v-cut.
• Keep trees away from sources of heat (direct sunlight, heat vents, etc.) and keep the room cool.
• It is NOT worth it to: drill holes in the base, use “I-V” type devices, apply anti-transpirants or add anything to the water in the stand.
• Proper tree care and watering reduces fire hazards more than spraying trees with flame retardants.
• Run your fingers across the needles. If they break easily or fall off in your hand, the tree is dry and should be removed from the house.

For the full article on Christmas tree care by Dr. Rick Bates go to http://ento.psu.edu/extension/christmas-trees/cultural-information/caring-for-your-cut-christmas-tree or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Choosing a Christmas Tree

Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you:

In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.

Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.

These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.

Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.

• Balsam Fir: soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
• Colorado Blue Spruce: stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
• Douglas Fir: widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
• Scotch Pine: one of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
• White Pine: native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
• Fraser Fir: closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.

Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Hollies Celebrate the Winter with Berries – Maybe

With our thoughts turning toward winter holiday season plants I thought it might be “wise” to share some tips about hollies from Linda S. Wiles, Extension Educator, Monroe County.

Typically we think of the Christmas time holly with evergreen, pointed leaves and red berries - Ilex aquifolium, but there are also hollies that are deciduous, have smooth leaves, and/or black berries. It is such a diverse group that even working around cold-hardiness, you can probably find one that works for your property.

Inquiries regarding holly plants not having berries are frequent in winter. This occurs because holly has either male or female flowers, but not both on the same plant. If your holly does not have berries, one of the first things to consider is that the plant may be male or that it may be a female without a nearby compatible male. Some holly cultivars bloom at different times and they need to be blooming simultaneously in order to produce berries. To ease landscape congestion and increase berried plants, you only need one male holly for several female hollies.

There are two other situations that can result in “berryless” hollies. The first is that the plant is too young to flower; the second is the result of weather problems.

For information on hollies and other trees and shrubs for Pennsylvania you can view the free publication A Guide for Selecting Shrubs for Pennsylvania Landscapes by going to the web at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uj257.pdf or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Gourds

The rush of the first holiday of the season is over. Halloween is gone and all of the candy is too. The pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns are now part of the compost pile. However, with Thanksgiving a few weeks away, most people keep gourds around as decorations. They are ideal color for the whole fall season, as they do not rot like pumpkins. Also you may want to consider drying, or more precisely curing gourds to make them last even longer.

Curing gourds is a two-step process which may take 1 to 6 months depending on the type and size of the gourd. Surface drying is the first step in the curing process, and takes approximately one week. During this time, the skin hardens and the exterior color of the gourd is set. Place clean, dry fruit in a dark, well-ventilated area. Arrange gourds in a single layer and make certain that the fruits do not touch each other. A cooling rack will allow air circulation around the gourds. Check gourds daily and discard fruit that show signs of decay or mold and any that develop soft spots.

Internal drying is the second step in curing and takes a minimum of four weeks. Keep the gourds in shallow containers in a dark, warm, well-ventilated area. If any mold appears on the outside skin, gourds can be wiped clean and allowed to continue drying. However, any gourds that become decayed, shriveled or misshapen should be discarded. Periodically turn the fruit to discourage shriveling and promote even curing. Providing warmth during the internal curing process will accelerate drying and discourage decay. Adequate curing is achieved when the gourd becomes light in weight and the seeds can be heard rattling inside.

Once well cured, gourds may be waxed, shellacked or painted. A high-grade transparent furniture or floor wax is preferred to shellac or varnish because the latter may change the natural color. Dried gourds can be used for bird houses, bowls and planters. Decorating them with non-toxic craft paints is a great kid’s project. With some imagination, cured gourds can be painted for any holiday.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publication ‘Growing and Curing Gourds in the Home Garden’, for a copy, contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Bed Bug Prevention

Don’t wait for the bed bug to bite! Here are some tips from the Pennsylvania Integrated Pest Management Program on steps you can take now to keep them out of your bed.

Bed bugs cannot fly so they infest homes by being transported in clothing, backpacks, suitcases, mattresses or other furniture. They can also walk in from adjacent apartments or rooms through cracks or conduits for electrical wiring or plumbing. They search for a sleeping human by moving up walls, bed linens, bed legs or anything touching the bed.

Prevent bed bugs from gaining a foothold in your home!

• Carefully inspect clothing and baggage after you have travelled. Place clothes in sealed plastic bags until they can be laundered.
• Avoid acquiring used furniture and mattresses – these may be infested.
• Remove clutter from the home, especially the bedrooms where bed bugs can find added places to hide. A bed bug infestation is NOT a sign of lack of cleanliness. It just means that they found a way to enter and hide in your home.
• Seal cracks and crevices, especially those that lead to other rooms/floors.
• Keep beds clear above and below. Do not pile coats or “foreign” clothing on beds
• Use solid, light-colored sheets – these make early detection of bed bugs easier.
• If you live in an apartment building and are concerned about bed bugs, keep them from climbing up the bed by pulling the bed away from the walls, making sure no bedding touches the floor. Around each bed leg, spread a thick layer of petroleum jelly (e.g. Vaseline®) in a band at least 2 inches wide and about 6 inches off the floor. Bed bugs cannot crawl through this barrier. You can also use small, nested dishes of soapy water (in the outer dish) under each leg, or commercial devices such as the CLIMBUP® Insect Interceptor.

For the latest tips on bed bug control visit PA IPM’s newly created bed bug resources section at http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/resources/bedbug

If you have any gardening questions please call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Pantry Pests

Recently, two insects have been grabbing the headlines as their presence has been noticed: bedbugs and stinkbugs, and deservedly so. However, they have lots of company. With the nicer weather coming to a close, you will be spending more time indoors. You may start to see “flyers and crawlers” all sorts of other insects in your house. The most common are grouped together and called pantry pests.

Two important steps should be taken to manage them. First, don’t panic. What you see may not be as serious of a threat as bedbugs. Plus they are not always associated with unsanitary conditions. Most of these insects have hitched a ride in packaging material, boxes, and containers. Secondly, in order to solve the problem, the insect must be identified correctly. Please do not spray an insecticide as a first response. They are poisonous, and anything sprayed indiscriminately can contaminate food, containers, preparation surfaces, and pet areas. There may be safer ways to control pantry pests.

The most common insect pantry pest in Pennsylvania is the Indian meal moth. It prefers such foods as chocolate, dried fruits, bird feed, and dry dog food. A common flour, pasta and cereal pest is the saw-toothed grain beetle. Various other species of beetles are also common pantry pests and infest a wide variety of food items. Cigarette beetles and drugstore beetles are occasional pests, but they prefer dried plant materials such as herbs and spices. You may also come across carpet beetles, which feed on lint, hair, leather, and animal products. Larder beetles live on other dead insects, corn meal, and dry pet food.

The key to successful control is to find the source of infestation. Unless this is found, you will continue to see the insects. Finding insects in one area of the home does not mean the infestation is in that area. Many cereal pests can fly; therefore, you may see them in places distant from their breeding site. Pantry or stored product insects can feed on anything edible: cereals, various grains, crackers, spices, macaroni, dried fruit, chocolate, candy, nuts, dried peas or beans. Don't overlook pet foods such as bird seed, fish food, dog food and cat food.

Once you locate and eliminate all infested foods, the number of pests should decrease rapidly. Those you see will be adult beetles or moths looking for another food source in which to deposit their eggs. Store all pantry items in air-tight, hard plastic containers, jars, etc. Be sure to check cake mixes and other unopened items because they might also be infested. Thoroughly vacuum and wash cupboards, pantry shelves, floors, etc. to remove any spilled food stuffs. Insecticide sprays are of little value in controlling pantry pests when infested materials are removed and cracks and crevices are cleaned.

We have two publications to help manage pantry pests, ‘Identifying Common Household Pests’ and ‘Cereal and Pantry Pests’. Contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Protecting your Landscape from Deer

Now is a good time to protect your garden labors from deer. Here are some tips from Penn State horticulture professor Jim Sellmer.

Unless you have to protect large areas of new growth an economical approach to deer-proofing both new and mature trees and shrubs is individual fencing. A deer can reach over fencing, so make sure it is high enough; several feet higher that any tree or shrub that is less than 3 feet tall. Place fence posts about 4 feet from the tree or shrub to prevent deer from leaning over the fence. Attach plastic or woven wire mesh to the stakes. Inspect your fence at least once per week, especially after a heavy snowfall. Once the snow hardens, you may need to make your fences taller.

An alternative to fencing is the use of chemical deer repellents. Be aware that most repellents wash off from rain or snow and extremely hungry deer won’t be deterred. Repellents will need to be applied routinely but can be made from household items, such as a mixture of spoiled eggs and water, or purchased from garden centers. Deer become tolerant to the taste and smell of repellents, so switching the repellent type is important during the season.

An easier approach to fighting deer is to plant trees and shrubs that deer don’t find delicious, but please remember that no plant can be entirely deer-proof. For a comprehensive list of deer resistant plants compiled by Penn State extension educator Linda Wiles go to: http://monroe.extension.psu.edu/Horticulture/deer/index.html.

For the complete article by Sellmer visit the web at http://live.psu.edu/story/35640

If you have any gardening questions please call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Fall Color Choices

Set aside some time now to enjoy the seasonal changes. Take a break from fall clean up, and make a few colorful changes to your home landscape. While your garden is almost done and things are slowing down, you can add a new look around your home by choosing some of the following for some easy and instant colorful changes.

Ornamental kale: easy care and can last well into the winter if planted in the ground. Plus it is native to North America, easy to grow and can reach eighteen inches in height. It likes well drained soil and thrives in temperatures below fifty degrees. Kale has lacey and feathery leaves ranging in color from green to red to white depending on the variety. Ornamental cabbage has similar traits but its leaves are wavy edged, and form rosettes with pink, purple, red, or white centers.

Fall pansies have gained popularity over the years. They add a punch of color to the earth tones of the rest of the fall landscape. They are easy to find at your local garden center. Choose compact plants with deep green foliage. Plant in well-drained, rich soil in a sunny to partly-shady location. Deadhead blossoms to extend flowering. These cool-weather lovers can actually make it through frosts and even single-digit temperatures. Some may surprise you with their return in the spring.

Chrysanthemums are the popular choice for fall color. They come in a variety of single and bi-colored blooms, and there are as many as thirteen different kinds of flowers- cushion, daisy, and pom-pom are common. Mums are a wise choice for instant color. Most come in decorative containers. Just take them home and display. Mums are disease and pest resistant, and they make a big statement with little effort. For the adventurous mums can be planted in the ground or left in their containers and stored in a garage for planting in the spring.

Pumpkins, you can pick your own, or find plenty at a road side stand, garden center or even the grocery store. It would not be fall without pumpkins, cider, and hayrides. Choose one with a firm skin with no soft spots and uniform, deep orange color. A nice firm green stem makes a pumpkin really stand out. Make sure it has a flat bottom so it can sit up by itself. Wait to carve it, cut pumpkins last only a short time. Better yet, pick some up for decoration now and go later for your jack-o-lanterns, giving you an excuse for another fun day at a local pumpkin patch.

For more information on any home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Emerald Ash Borer Moving toward NE PA

Forty-three counties are now under a quarantine intended to prevent the spread of the invasive, tree-killing Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). The PA Dept. of Agriculture’s quarantine area stretches from the Ohio border to Columbia, Lycoming, Northumberland, and Tioga counties in the northern half of the state and Cumberland, Franklin, and Perry farther south. To our east, the pest is in New York’s Hudson River Valley. Emerald Ash Borer beetles can kill an ash tree within three years and so they pose a serious threat to Pennsylvania’s nation-leading hardwoods industry, which contributes nearly $25 billion to the state’s economy.

We all are asked not to move ash nursery, green lumber, and any other ash material, including logs, stumps, roots and branches, from the quarantine area. Because it is difficult to distinguish between species of hardwood firewood, all hardwood firewood and wood chips—including ash, oak, maple and hickory—are considered quarantined. Here are some simple every day ways that you can help protect our urban, suburban, and forested areas:

• Buy and burn only locally cut firewood (within 50 miles of its source).
• Already have firewood from another area? BURN IT. Do not leave it. Do not take it with you.
• Keep an eye out for EAB in your area.

Emerald Ash Borer adults are dark green, one-half inch in length and one-eighth inch wide, and fly only from early May until September. Larvae spend the rest of the year beneath the bark of ash trees. When they emerge as adults, they leave D-shaped holes in the bark about one-eighth inch wide.

People who suspect they have seen Emerald Ash Borer should call the department’s toll-free pest hotline at 1-866-253-7189. For more information, visit Penn State’s EAB website at http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer; the National EAB website at http://www.emeraldashborer.info/; or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Keep Your Woodland Trash-free

While you are working hard to keep your garden and home landscape clean and free of debris you may find that illegal dumping has become a problem on your woodlot. Unfortunately, due to economic times, this problem may be increasing. Cleaning up an illegal dump site can be dangerous and very expensive for the landowner.

George Hurd, Franklin County Extension Educator, gives some tips in the Summer issue of Penn State’s Forest Leaves for helping you keep your woodlot debris free.

Your property boundary is your primary line of defense. The stronger and more noticeable it is, the greater the probability that the illegal dumper will go elsewhere. You just have made it too hard to do!

• Secure locks and gates. Gates should be as strong as possible, mounted securely and locked with heavy duty chain and padlocks.
• Keep your fences and gates in good repair.
• Ditch or block access points, lanes, and road access you no longer use. Ditches form natural barriers.
• Use posts or large rocks to block access to large openings into your property.
  Cut back vegetation from areas where the dumper could remain unseen while dumping. Most illegal dumpers will drop materials close to the public road.
• Post “No Trespassing” signs at regular intervals. Do call police and report trespassers.

If you have trash to be hauled away, be careful who you hire. If it is dumped illegally, you may be liable for cleanup costs and disposal costs.

If you witness someone littering or dumping, get details and descriptions, and report them to an enforcement agency as soon as possible. When contacting an enforcement agency, always start local: local police, a municipal or county code enforcement office, a solid waste authority office, or a county health department. Additional information on Pennsylvania laws on illegal dumping and enforcement agencies is available at: ftp://ftp.dot.state.pa.us/public/Bureaus/hwybeaut/PALAWSAGAINSTLITTERINGILLEGALDUMPING.Pdf

Another source of information about preventing illegal dumping is PA CleanWays. For more information about their programs or to find a chapter in your area, visit their website at: http://www.pacleanways.org/

For more good tips see the full article at http://rnrext.cas.psu.edu/PDFs/FLSummer2010.pdf or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Trees!

Shade on a hot summer day, solace found resting underneath a favorite spot, strength and stature added to our landscape, or the refuge they provide, are all tangible benefits of trees. We often become attached or even rooted to a tree because they are symbols and memorials as they slowly live their long lives next to ours.

Trees also represent a substantial investment in the home landscape. Proper inspection, mulching, and providing fertilization of essential elements will pay dividends in the years to come. Conversely, a poorly kept tree becomes a liability, harboring diseases, stability issues, and a haven for insects.

The Penn State Master Gardeners can assist you maintaining your trees. We have several publications you may find helpful. "Preserving Trees" and "A Guide for Selecting Trees" will help you choose the right ones for you. "Pruning Landscape Trees" and "Think Before You Top" will guide you as you trim. "Common Diseases" gives tips on preventing as well as managing affected trees. We also have publications and fact sheets on the varied insects that feed on trees.

For more information on this or other home horticulture issues, please call the Penn State Master Gardener helpline at 570-963-8642.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Garden Slugs, Yuck!!

If you prefer avoiding insecticides, and do not mind putting in early morning work time, you can trap slugs. Place scrap boards on the soil under plants and between garden rows. Each morning collect slugs from under the boards and put in a bucket containing soapy water. The slugs will drown and can be disposed of later. (Don't put slugs into your compost pile as they will become smelly.)

Yeasty odors attract slugs. Use yeast and water, or beer, as an attractant for slug traps. One trap design uses a coffee can in which a hole has been cut about one-third of the way up from the bottom. The can is buried so the hole is at ground level. Place about 2 inches of beer or yeast and water into the trap. Cover with the plastic lid to reduce evaporation and to keep out thirsty pets! Check and remove dead slugs daily, and replace the attractant every 4 days.

You can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/, or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Purple Boxes and Emerald Ash Borer

Emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is an exotic, invasive wood-boring insect that is threatening to infest and kill all North American ash species from the genus Fraxinus, like Green Ash and White Ash (the more common ashes), as well as Black Ash and Blue Ash. The borer does NOT infest the unrelated American Mountain Ash, which is in the genus Pyrus. Government agency and Cooperative Extension staff have been monitoring the borer and trying to slow its movement across the USA since it was first sighted in Michigan in 2002. This week we would like to explain a bit about the purple monitoring boxes that you might see as you travel across the state and give you some tips on how you could help slow down the borer’s spread.

So, as for the boxes, we have been hearing some interesting stories about them. They range from “I have no idea what they do” to “they attract beetles that attack ash trees and kill the beetles.” To help clear things up below is some information from a blog maintained by Robert Hansen, Extension Forester, Tioga County Extension office. You can visit his blog at http://www.mypawoods.blogspot.com

The “Purple Boxes” are back in Pennsylvania’s landscape. Cooperating agencies have again hung the purple emerald ash borer “traps” in key areas of the state. Many of them are located along major roads and highways and parks (since people are one of the principle transporters of this insect). The traps are treated with a substance that attracts emerald ash borer to the trap where they get stuck on the sticky surface. Technicians will periodically check the traps for emerald ash borer adults.

Remember, these traps do not attract emerald ash borer into non-infested areas. The purpose of the traps is to determine if the insect is already present in the area. If you see these traps in your travels, please do not disturb them. They can best do their job if they are left undisturbed. And please encourage anyone who may mention them to you to please leave them alone.

If you suspect that you have seen emerald ash borer damage or an adult emerald ash borer, contact your local Cooperative Extension office, Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry office or Regional Pennsylvania Dept. of Agriculture office. For more information on emerald ash borer go to http://bradford.extension.psu.edu/nresources/forestry.html and scroll down to the emerald ash borer photo and click there. The purple boxes are not control measures. Their purpose is not to kill the beetles. Their purpose is to monitor to see if the beetle is in the area.

To keep up with up to date happenings about emerald ash borer and other forest related topics, visit Hansen’s blog listed above.

Now, here are some tips on how you could help slow the spread of the borer …

• Do not move firewood. That is one of the primary ways the emerald ash borer moves into uninfested areas. Buy your firewood locally when you get to your campsite.
• Do not plant ash trees.
• Monitor ash trees on your property and be prepared to remove if them if they become unhealthy or infested. We recommend that you use a certified arborist in your area. For help in finding a certified arborist visit the website www.PATrees.org or call your local extension office.

Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Blight

Here we are in the midst of summer. Perfect for picnics, all sorts of outside activities, and enjoying the freedom this season brings. We will be celebrating Independence Day and the weather forecast is great. The summer, so far, has been much better than last. Remember? Lots of rain, lower than average temperatures, and a disappointing growing season for the home gardener. Even worse, this time last year, we were plagued by late blight. While weather does play a part in the development of the disease, the pathogen, Phytophtora infestans, has to be present in order for late blight to develop.

In parts of Pennsylvania there have been confirmed cases of late blight. Late blight is a disease that can kill plants and wipe out crops in a few days if conditions favor disease growth. Those conditions described the 2009 growing season – cool to moderate temperatures with wet weather. Once you have seen late blight wipe out a garden or field, you begin to understand how important preventative measures are to protecting your home garden.

Late blight affects primarily potatoes and tomatoes, not other garden crops. Spores can blow for many miles, land on a wet tomato or potato leaf and start a new infection. So the disease can quickly spread from one garden to another. Infections can be prevented by regular spraying with fungicides containing chlorothalonil or mancozeb, but applications must begin before the disease gets started and continue through the growing season every 7 days to protect new growth. If weather is dry, you can stretch this interval; but if we have heavy rains, you may have to shorten it.

Gardeners should be spraying fungicides on their tomato and potato plants to prevent infection. Keep in mind that fungicides prevent infection they do not cure it. All plant surfaces should be covered with fungicide before conditions favor infection. Do not wait until after the rain stops to apply fungicides – they should be sprayed and dry before rain starts. Thorough coverage of all plant surfaces is needed for good control.

Remember, fungicides are to be used and handled according to labeled instructions. For more information on late blight, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Low Impact Weed Killing

Perennial weeds can be difficult to control. But waiting will only let the problem worsen.

Have just a few? When the soil is moist gently loosen the soil and gently pull from the bottom of the plant (yes, loosen and pull gently so you can get out as many roots as possible without breaking them off). Don’t be surprised if you have to “follow” the roots (loosening the soil along the way) while you pull - they can travel quite far! If the few perennial weeds you have are mixed in with other plants, you might try applying a nonselective herbicide when the weeds are actively growing. Paint it on with a brush so you do not kill the nearby plants with overspray. Repeat both methods as needed.

If you have a heavy weed problem and can do without the weedy area for the season, you could try solarization during the hot summer months. Water the area well. Cover the area with black plastic and secure the edges with soil, rocks, or earth staples (you can make them with wire hangers). Leave the plastic on for 60 days. The heat from the summer sun will sterilize the soil.

If you can leave the area fallow (with no garden plants) for the season AND would like to enrich your soil in the process, try smother cropping. This method basically starves out the weeds by planting another crop that shades out weeds combined with rapid harvest cycles that do not give the weeds time to replenish the food reserves in their roots. Here’s how:

• Cultivate the garden and heavily sow a series of fast growing cover crops. Here is one example of a smother crop series- others end with a legume to add nitrogen in the fall and you can use other crops as well. Remember to water if needed.
• Do now - sow OATS. When they start to head out, mow and till them into the soil. That should be sometime in mid summer.
• Right after the oats are tilled in, sow buckwheat. As soon as the buckwheat starts to flower mow and till it in - probably in early fall.
• Right after the oats are tilled in - sow rye. Leave that over the winter. Let it come up in the spring. Mow and till it in before it flowers or when you are ready to work your garden- whichever comes first.
  

NOTE: If your garden is overcome by aggressive perennial weeds like comfrey you may have to repeat the smother crop cycle next year. But at the end of it you will have weed free and very rich soil. You can take that to the bank!

You can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/, or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Jim Kessler & Dorrie Mininger, Susquehanna County Master Gardeners
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Mosquitoes

The signs of the season are upon us: the smell of charcoal grills, the new or refreshed lawn furniture, tiki torches, convertibles, short shorts, and tank tops. These are in addition to the buds and blooms forming on the landscape and filling the air with colors. We all know those long, hazy days have returned. Another telltale sign, that no one wants to see, is the ubiquitous mosquito. These pests stick their pointed “noses” all over us to remind us summer is back.

Worldwide, there are 3,000 species of mosquitoes, 200 in the United State, and about 60 in Pennsylvania. Beyond their annoying bites, the mosquito is a carrier of several diseases such as West Nile virus and encephalitis. The mosquito even puts our dogs at risk by transmitting canine heartworm disease. The mosquito most often discovered in urban areas of Pennsylvania is the northern house mosquito, Culex pipiens.

Adult female mosquitoes require a blood meal in order to produce viable eggs. While feeding, the females inject saliva-containing anticoagulants that prevent the blood from clotting. Because mosquitoes take numerous blood meals, they can acquire disease organisms from an infected host and later transmit those organisms to previously uninfected hosts.

With this in mind, it is important for the homeowner to take these steps to manage the effects mosquitoes can have on the quality of life:

Encourage indoor activities: The northern house mosquito is most active at dusk to dawn. Pennsylvanians with immune system deficiencies should try to limit outside activities to daylight hours. Likewise, parents of young children and infants should keep children inside during these same hours.

Eliminate standing water: This will reduce the number of potential mosquito breeding sites.
• Remove old tires, cans, buckets, pots, and similar items that can trap rainwater.
• Position tarps and boat covers to allow rain runoff and limit ‘ponding.’
• Turn plastic wading pools and wheelbarrows upside-down when not in use.
• Keep swimming pools chlorinated.

Exclusion: All doors and windows should fit tightly and remain closed during the peak mosquito activity. Replace screening that has holes or tears.

Effective Repellents: Materials containing DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) are effective in repelling mosquitoes. For more information on the safe use of insect and tick repellents, or other horticultural issues, contact the Penn State Master Gardner Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawnnaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Avoid Attracting Bears - Part II

In an article posted on May 5th, we listed five suggestions that could prevent attracting bears to your property. Here are some tips if you actually encounter a bear – whether in your garden or in the woods.

Stay Calm. If you see a bear and it hasn’t seen you, leave the area calmly. Talk or make noise while moving away to help it discover your presence. Choose a route that will not intersect with the bear if it is moving.

Get Back. If you have surprised a bear, slowly back away while talking softly. Face the bear, but avoid direct eye contact. Do not turn and run; rapid movement may be perceived as danger to a bear that is already feeling threatened. Avoid blocking the bear’s only escape route and try to move away from any cubs you see or hear. Do not attempt to climb a tree. A female bear may falsely interpret this as an attempt to get at her cubs, even though the cubs may be in a different tree.

Pay Attention. If a bear is displaying signs of nervousness – pacing, swinging its head, or popping its jaws – about your presence, leave the area. Some bears may bluff charge to within a few feet. If this occurs, stand your ground, wave your arms wildly, and shout at the bear. Turning and running could elicit a chase and you cannot outrun a bear.

Fight Back. If a bear attacks, fight back as you continue to leave the area. Black bears have been driven away with rocks, sticks, binoculars, car keys, or even bare hands.

To report nuisance bears, contact the Game Commission Region Office nearest you. The telephone numbers for the Northeast Region Office in Dallas, Luzerne County, is 570-675-1143.

More information on bears is available on the agency’s website (www.pgc.state.pa.us) by clicking on the “Wildlife” tab in the menu bar at the top of the homepage, and then selecting “Black Bears” From the “Mammals” section. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Groundhogs

Is it Punxsutawney Phil, the famous furry barometer, or maybe Gus the second most famous groundhog, you see scurry across your yard? Probably not, but as common as this long tailed rodent is seen, it would seem that Ground Hog’s Day happens seven days a week, all year long.

Marmota monax, the groundhog, also known as the woodchuck, is a chunky creature weighing up to 10 lbs. Its length ranges sixteen to twenty inches plus the tail, four to seven inches. While open farm land is their first choice, the groundhog has made a comfortable home in the suburban landscape where plenty of food and shelter make life easy for them. Often a groundhog will construct its burrow along stone walls, at the base of trees and even along a foundation.

Groundhog burrows can be identified by the large mound of excavated earth at the main entrance. On this mound, which is constantly renewed by debris from within, the groundhog frequently sits to look for danger. The entranceway is 10 to 12 inches in diameter, and they also have secondary entrances. These tend to be hidden and dug from below so mounds are not seen.

The groundhog can be the bane of most homeowners. The animal’s feeding and burrowing hab¬its conflict with human interests. Damage often occurs on farms, in home gardens, orchards, nurseries, around build¬ings. Damage to crops such as alfalfa, soybeans, beans, squash, tomatoes, and peas can be costly and extensive. A homeowner may lose his or her entire tomato patch. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs may be damaged by groundhog as they gnaw on woody vegetation. Mounds of earth from the excavated burrow systems and holes formed at burrow entrances present a hazard to farm equipment, animals and humans. On occasion, burrowing can building foundations.

In Pennsylvania, groundhogs are classified as game ani¬mals. Game protection is removed when they damage personal property. In that case, groundhogs can be controlled by the property owner using the lawful means. If a homeowner does not feel comfortable with any means of control, there are many wildlife pest control companies who can do this for you.

If the area is small, poultry wire or two inch woven mesh fencing can be installed. With three foot minimum above ground, the fence should have twelve inches buried in the ground, with six inches bent in an L shape pointing away.

Scarecrows can provide temporary relief from groundhog damage. Move them regularly and incorporate a high level of human activity in the susceptible area.

There are no repellents or toxicants that are for use on groundhogs. There are other products such as fumigants and gas cartridges available at home and garden centers which are labeled for use on groundhogs. Please carefully follow the directions as these are dangerous products.

There are live traps the homeowners can use as well. Place the trap near fresh damage or at the main entrance of the burrow. Use fresh bait such as apple slices, carrots, and lettuce. Be careful once the animal is trapped. Give some thought to a relocation area at least ten miles away and here the groundhog will not be the pest he was to you.

For more information on groundhogs or any other home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Avoid Attracting Bears

Observing wildlife while tending to our yards is one of the many joys of gardening; however, “Now is the time to keep bears from becoming a nuisance later in the summer,” according to Mark Ternent, Pennsylvania Game Commission black bear biologist. Bears are less likely to stay or return if they do not find anything rewarding. Ternent listed five suggestions that could prevent attracting bears to a property:

Play it smart. Do not feed wildlife. Food placed outside for wildlife, such as corn for squirrels, may attract bears. Summer bird feeder tips from Audubon Pennsylvania include: avoid using sunflower seeds, hummingbird nectar mixes or suet; bring feeders inside at night; or suspend feeders from high crosswires so they are at least 10 feet above the ground and four feet from anything a bear can climb, including overhead limbs.

Keep it clean. Don’t put out garbage until pick-up day; don’t throw table scraps out back; don’t add fruit or vegetable wastes to your compost pile; clean your barbecue grill regularly; and bring pet food dishes inside overnight.

Keep your distance. If a bear shows up in your backyard, stay calm. Shout at it but don’t approach it. If the bear won't leave, call the nearest Game Commission regional office or local police department.

Eliminate temptation. Bears that visit your area are often drawn there. Neighbors need to work together to reduce an area’s appeal to bears. Ask area businesses to keep dumpsters closed and bear-proofed (chained or locked shut with a metal lid).

Check please! If your dog is barking, or cat is clawing at the door to get in, try to determine what has alarmed your pet using outside lights and from a safe position, such as a porch or an upstairs window. Don't do it on foot with a flashlight. Black bears blend in too well with nighttime surroundings providing the chance for a close encounter.

To report nuisance bears, contact the Game Commission Region Office nearest you. The telephone numbers for the Northeast Region Office in Dallas, Luzerne County, is 570-675-1143.

More information on bears is available on the agency’s website (www.pgc.state.pa.us) by clicking on the “Wildlife” tab in the menu bar at the top of the homepage, and then selecting “Black Bears” From the “Mammals” section. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Tomatoes, 2010

In just a few weeks it will be time to plant tomatoes. When you buy transplants, choose plants that have a nice green color on the lower leaves. Choose plants with a thick stem. Avoid plants that have blossoms or small fruit unless they were grown in a 6” pot or larger. If you have not added calcium lime for a few years, apply it when you till your soil. Lime will help prevent the tomato fruit from getting blossom end rot. When you transplant tomatoes into the garden, plant them deep. Tomatoes will develop roots from the parts of the stem that are underground. Apply fertilizer soon after planting.

We are concerned about late blight being a problem in tomatoes again this summer. The summer weather will determine if late blight will be a problem in 2010 or not. It has been a problem for growers in Florida again this winter. If we have a cool wet summer, expect late blight to be active. Late blight does not do well when the weather is hot and dry. Fungicides containing chlorothalonil are effective at protecting tomatoes. If you use a fungicide, it will have to be on the foliage before the blight attacks and thorough leaf coverage is critical.

Also, every Saturday, through May 22nd, we are offering a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will answer your gardening questions from 11 am – 2 pm. Plus, at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This program is free and open to the public. Here are the upcoming topics:

• May 1st - lawn care basics
• May 8th - landscaping for the birds
• May 15th - composting
• May 22nd - home food preservation basics
  
  

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Purple Loosestrife

The color purple has substantial force associated with it. For ages in history, this hue has been the color of royalty. As an expensive dye, purple was only affordable to the elite. It has other connotations, such as religious clothing and decorations around holidays from Mardi Gras to Easter. This color has a special place in pop culture too, “The Color Purple” and “Purple Rain” are movies, plus countless songs.

In the home landscape, purple is a prominent color. Throughout the seasons, we can find various shades in perennials and annuals. Who doesn’t like seeing the hyacinth and crocus in the late winter? And the endless charm of Johnny Jump Ups, the tall purple coneflowers in the summer, and the purple winter creeper covering barren ground in the dead of cold are among the sights of purple’s majesty.

There is one purple threat though, Lythrum salicaria, or purple loosestrife. This invasive plant is an aggressive danger to wetlands. It replaces valuable native plants eliminating food and shelter for wildlife and can choke water ways. It offers no value to wildlife as it throttles the hiding and nesting areas of native species. Purple loosestrife can be found in all major watersheds in Pennsylvania and about half of the wetlands.
Compounding this dilemma, over the years some home owners have planted purple loosestrife in their gardens, attracted to its beauty and stature. Purple loosestrife can generate one million seeds in just one year. Plus it can grow from broken pieces left in moist areas and its underground root system.

To compound this purple threat, there are no native controls to hamper its spread. Purple loosestrife was introduced here from Europe in the 1800’s. As a result, all natural enemies, pests and diseases were left behind. An active part of controlling this noxious plant is active gardeners. As scouts and managers, they can be on the front line of defense. The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County are holding a workshop on purple loosestrife highlighting this struggle in Northeast Pa. It will be held Monday May 10th from 7:30 – 8:30 pm at the Moscow Borough Building, 124 Van Brunt St. Moscow. For more information on this or any other home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Uninvited Guests: Squirrels

With winter fading away (we hope!) now is a good time to implement some of the squirrel management methods described below so you will be ready for next winter … and deal with any current squirrel issues!

During the cold winter months, wildlife such as tree squirrels sometimes find their way into buildings and homes through loose siding or ventilation screens, looking for a place to nest. Once inside, they can damage walls, insulation, and tendency to chew. In most cases, these squirrels can be managed using IPM tactics that are safe and effective.

Step 1 Pest Identification
The first step in wildlife pest management is identifying what type of squirrel is causing damage to your property. The eastern gray squirrel can range in color from black to silver with a white belly. They are 16 to 24 inches in length. Gray squirrels can be found in any area that has nuts and seeds, including urban backyards. Flying squirrels are smaller than other tree squirrels, between 8 and 10 inches in length. They vary in color from gray to brown, and have broad webs of skin connecting the fore and hind legs at the wrists and a flattened tail that allows them to glide from tree to tree. Squirrels can be found anywhere there is an ample supply of nuts and seeds.

Step 2 Prevention
There are many ways to prevent squirrel damage:

• Make your property less hospitable to wildlife pests by keeping the property clean and maintained.
• Trim trees and limbs to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs.
• Exclude squirrels from inside buildings by using caulking or mesh to seal up holes where small animals could gain entry.
• Install fences around plants, trees and gardens to reduce their source of food.
  Place birdfeeders 15 to 30 feet from buildings.
• Consider removing birdfeeders if squirrels are a problem.
  

Step 3 Controlling Squirrels Safely
There are very few repellants currently available for use on squirrels and have a very limited success rate. In addition, there are no fumigants or toxicants federally registered for use on squirrels. Try these IPM methods instead:

• Frightening – Frighten squirrels by using loud noises or lights in attics or closets where they are nesting.
• Trapping – Use wire-cage and box traps to capture squirrels alive, baiting the traps with orange or apple slices, walnuts and pecans removed from the shell, or peanut butter. Check the traps twice a day and release the squirrel once exclusion tactics are used to secure the building.

For more information on squirrels and other wildlife pests, go the PA IPM Program Problem Solver at http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/441.htm. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Moss

All that grows green isn’t always something homeowners want in their lawn. Dandelions, white clover, ground ivy, perennial weeds, and all sorts of annual grasses are plants needing turf management. One of the first weeds to green-up in the spring is moss.

Many different species of moss can grow and persist in home lawns. Unlike seed-bearing plants, mosses produce spores that can be wind-blown from one area to another. Moss is an opportunistic plant that will develop and grow in bare soil areas or where lawns are weak and thin. Moss does not “crowd out” grass, but once it is established, grass plants will not spread into those areas.

Moss is very persistent and difficult to remove from a lawn unless an effort is made to promote a healthy, dense, actively-growing turf to take its place. Moss in lawns is usually the result of conditions that are not conducive to good growth of turf. It is most commonly associated with shallow, rocky soils; poor soil fertility; low soil pH (acid soils); heavy shade; and excessive moisture. If any of these factors are limiting turf growth, moss can invade the lawn and establish a permanent residence.

The first step in a moss control program is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Soil test kits are available from the Penn State Cooperative Extension office for a nominal fee. If the soil is deficient in nutrients or in need of liming, the soil test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply them.

If shade and/or moisture are the limiting factors for good turf growth, steps should be taken to correct the situation or plant grasses that are adapted to shaded or moist areas. The fine fescues are the best-adapted turfgrasses to shaded, well-drained soils, whereas, rough bluegrass is better adapted to shaded, moist soils.

Unfortunately, there are very few products that can be used to control moss. Products containing fertilizer and iron sulfate are sold at retail garden centers and can turn moss black and sometimes reduce encroachment Be sure to follow label directions so that these products are used safely and correctly. We have a free publication “Moss in the Lawn”. For a copy, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Also, on every Saturday now through May 22nd, we are having a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will be there from 11 am – 2 pm to answer your gardening questions. Plus at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This is free and open to the public.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Pruning Peach Trees

The best time to prune peach trees is the middle of April. Pruning earlier, before bud swell, makes the tree susceptible to damage from the disease cystospora canker. A pruned peach tree is less susceptible to the disease brown rot. Brown rot is that brown fuzzy disease that grows on peach fruit as it ripens.

A peach tree should have 3 or 4 main limbs called scaffolds. The tree should have a bowl shaped appearance when pruning is complete. Prune annually to ensure uniform growth and fruit production. Always use sharp, clean pruners.

First, remove broken or diseased branches. Second, cut out vigorous upright shoots that developed on the inside of the main limbs. This is referred to as open center pruning. Finally, once the 3 or 4 main scaffolds have developed, allow secondary branches to develop off of the main scaffolds. Secondary branches should be spaced about 8” apart. Continue to keep upright shoots from developing on the inside of the scaffold limbs. As the tree matures, head back or cut off the ends of secondary branches to a side shoot so new fruiting wood is encouraged to develop. Remove all pruned wood and decayed fruit from around the tree.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Save Your Trees, Your Back and Your Wallet From Mulch Volcanoes!

Spring time is right around the corner so it must be time to start piling on the mulch around our trees … right? Wrong! Mounds of mulch around the trunk encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. But, you say, professional landscapers do it so it must be beneficial! Sorry, not true. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make “mulch volcanoes” that can only harm your trees, not help them.

Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the root flare is the zone where the tree trunk turns into the root system and the flare should be right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees.

Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?

• Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
• Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree. The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
• Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
• Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.

For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org. Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Can't Stand Ants!

Even though winter is slow in leaving NEPA, the days are warming up. You may notice some unwelcome guests in and around your kitchen. Ants, like other insects, are cold blooded; so as the temperatures rise, so does their activity.

Ants infesting homes are ‘social’ insects, meaning they live in colonies. Colonies consist of thousands of ‘workers’ and one or more ‘queens’. The queens produce all the eggs in the nest. Eggs hatch into hungry larvae, which in turn become the wingless, worker females. These are the ants we see running around in our houses. The worker ants’ job is to go collect food for the other ants. When ants find a good source of food, they ‘tell’ their sisters in the colony by leaving a chemical trail for them to follow. This is why one or two ants quickly become a swarm.

SO if you can’t stand ants, here are some hints to manage them:

• Follow the ants’ trail to see to the food source and clean it up
• Follow the ants’ trail to see and plug the entry point in your house
• Ants leave a chemical trail so other worker ants can find the food source. Wipe up their path with soap and water or vinegar and water. Without the trail the ants will be lost
• Vacuum any worker ants stranded in the house
• If a chemical is necessary, use only enclosed bait traps. Look for ones containing borax or abamectin. Please read and follow the directions; remember, they are poison. Also do not use a spray to kill the ants. Air and food contamination are very likely.

While this information deals with the small nuisance ants, there are more serious species, such as carpenter ants and even termites. They need more aggressive attention. If you can’t stand ants, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Blueberries!

You’ve heard that blueberries are good for you, have you considered growing your own? It is not hard. Some of the varieties that have done well in our area are Patriot, Sunrise, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Chandler and Aurora. Blueberries are easy to grow if you do the proper soil preparation. Blueberries grow in soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.0. It is advised to get a soil test a year before you plant. Adjust the soil pH a year before you plant. When planting, mix peat moss in with the soil (50/50 mixture) you are filling in around the plant. Place about 3” of mulch around each plant. Replenish the mulch each spring as needed. No fertilizer is needed the first year. Apply fertilizer each May starting the second year. Remove all blossoms the first year and half of the blossoms the second year. This allows the plant to establish itself.

When the plants are around 5 years old you will need to prune out the largest canes. A rule of thumb is to remove one large old cane for every 6 canes the plant contains. If the plant has 12 canes, prune out the two oldest. Prune in March or April.

Be prepared to protect the fruit from birds. Blueberries will turn blue before their flavor is fully developed. Be patient. Let the fruit fully ripen before harvest.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu



John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Winter-Damaged Trees

Snow and wind from recent winter storms can leave trees with broken limbs. So what do you do now? First ask yourself two questions:

Question 1. Is the tree worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it is a tree with brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. If you can see that the natural shape of the tree will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it. According to Penn State’s forest stewardship program a good way to judge whether a tree will survive storm damage is to look at the upper branches.

• If less than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a good chance of survival even though its growth may slow down while it recovers.
• If between 50 percent and 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree may survive. However, its wounds may provide entryways later for damaging insects and diseases, especially if large tops or large lower branches break, or if extensive areas of bark tear.
• If more than 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a low chance of survival.
  

Not sure if the tree is worth saving? Ask a professional (see below).

Question 2. Should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, you would be advised to seek out a professional. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.patrees.org/. This web site has lots of great tree related resources as well as a link to find a certified arborist by zip code (select “Finding an Arborist” on the left panel). Make sure the arborist carries proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Spiders... Friends or Foe?

There are many things that come across the Penn Master Gardener’s desk, pest or insect identification is one of the more unpredictable. Some are easy to identify, some have lots of legs and eyes and wings and segmented body parts, and some are just plain scary. One of the more misunderstood varieties is the spider. Are they really all that bad? Depends on whom you ask. It is important that any understanding must come from research based information.

As scary as these eight-legged creatures are, they are beneficial to us, our homes, and our gardens. In and around the house, spiders consume large amounts of other pests long before the human residents see them. Spiders are not a sign of poor housekeeping.

Most spiders indigenous to Pennsylvania will enter the home. Found often in crawl spaces and basements, the common house spider, Achaearanea tepidariorum, is known to cause grief. It frequently abandons one web to build a new one nearby and produces many webs in a short period of time.

Even though spiders can be helpful, it is unsettling to see them around. Consider preventative measures before reaching for the can of insecticide. Sprays are rarely effective in controlling the population, and are harmful indoors. Except in the rare occasion of a black widow or brown recluse (contact a registered insect control company or us about these two), there are easy steps you can take to manage these eight-footers.

• Vacuum - Instead of spraying vacuum both the webs and the spiders. The dust inside the bag will suffocate the spiders.
• Get rid of the web - If you can tolerate the idea of sharing your home with these beneficial bugs, you can just vacuum the web and leave the spiders to do their pest control work.
• Reduce their food supply – This time of year, most often fruit flies are the spiders’ meal. Keep fruit in a closed paper bag.
• Transplant – If you come across a spider, give it a change of scenery. Capture the spider in a container and release it outside.

Often misunderstood and intimidating, the spider is a good neighbor to have around. With some low impact management practices, we can have them working for us. For more information on spiders, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 and request “Commonly Encountered Pennsylvania Spiders.” This publication is also available in PDF format, email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we can send it electronically.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Pruning Fruit Trees

Late February and March are the best times to prune apple trees in Northeastern Pennsylvania. Prune peach trees in early April. Here are some basic rules that will help produce a healthy tree and quality apples.

•Remove all dead or diseased wood.
•Remove limbs that cross over and rub other limbs.
•Remove shoots that grow straight up.
•Remove low growing branches that will touch the ground when they bend with the weight of fruit.
•Reduce the density of the tree by removing shoots and branches at their base to open the tree up to allow sunlight and air movement in. The more light a branch gets the more fruit it will produce.
•Reduce the number of fruit spurs on spur type trees that have a history of setting too much fruit.
•Keep the top of the tree from overgrowing and overshadowing the lower branches. This can be accomplished by cutting the leader back to a smaller side shoot.

If you had fire blight in your tree last year, like I did, prune when the temperature is below 45 degrees to prevent spreading the blight. Remove the limb at least 8” below the infected area.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Watering House Plants

Here are some watering tips for your houseplants. If you ever notice that your houseplants aren’t performing as expected or look less than desirable, start by making small changes to their environment and observe whether the plant is responding before making drastic alterations.

Always use room-temperature water to avoid shock to the root system.

Check plants often enough to ensure that the potting mix is moist, but avoid keeping it too wet or not wet enough. Stick a finger into the media up to the first knuckle and feel whether it is wet below the surface. Water the plant if the potting mix feels dry, and then wait to water again until the media feels slightly moist, but not too dry.

Check the soil for dryness more often if the plants are:

• Larger or have large leaves
• In higher light or low relative humidity conditions
• Rapidly growing
• In a smaller pot (consider repotting!) or in a porous pot like clay
• In a potting mix that dries quickly
  

If leaf cover is dense and makes watering difficult, place the container in a pan of room temperature water for about 30 minutes while the potting mix absorbs water though the container’s drainage holes. This method works well for plant species such as cyclamen whose leaves or crown can become damaged if they get wet.

For the complete fact sheet on houseplant care, go to: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/files/caring_for_houseplants.pdf or contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call the Garden Helpline at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Cut Flowers

A colorful bouquet of flowers can say more than mere words. It can communicate sentiment, emotion, and even regret. “Sorry I forgot our anniversary”, “I didn’t mean to stay out ‘til 3 am”, or a simple “I love you” are means of expressing how we feel through fresh flowers. One, if not the biggest time for cut-flowers is approaching quickly -- Valentine’s Day. Whether it is the classic and timeless dozen red roses, or a last-minute-dash-to-the-store type arrangement (because I forgot it was February 14th AGAIN), here are a few things to remember in choosing cut flowers:

• Look at the petals - there should be no marked, damaged, or brown areas
• Look at the foliage - there should be no be wilting, and it should be crisp
• Look at the stem - there should be no slime and it should be in clean water
  

To make your bouquet last the longest, bring the flowers home as soon as possible. Remember, the stem is the bloom’s source of vitality. Cut a small portion of the stem off, underwater, and place them your choice of a vase filled with fresh water. Most floral shops provide a preservative to enhance the life of the bouquet. Be sure to use it, as aspirin, wine, pennies, mouthwash, and other lore, do not extend the bloom time and may be harmful. Finding a suitable location helps, too. Choose one with bright lighting, even temperatures, and no draft. Proper care can extend your colorful expression up to two weeks.

If you would like your arrangement to last even longer, consider drying your flowers for sentimental or decorative use. The Penn State Master Gardeners have information to help you do that. Please call 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request “Drying and Preserving Flowers”.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Sweet Onions

If you like sweet, mild onions let me suggest including them in your vegetable garden. Onions do not take up much garden space. They are easy to grow and reliable. An outstanding variety is Candy. Candy makes a large, mild, sweet onion that stores until Christmas. You can purchase Candy transplants in April from some local greenhouses or you can order seed and grow your own transplants. If you grow your own, you need to order the seed now and plant it the first week of February. I sprinkle the seed in potting soil so the seed is spaced about a ½ inch apart. Cover the seed with about ¼ inch of soil and keep the soil moist. Onion seedlings like temperatures in the low 60’s. Give them as much sun as possible. Supply supplemental light if they get less than 8 hours a day of direct sunlight.

Onions can be planted in the garden in mid to late April. The onion transplant roots are smooth and can be separated easily with a little care. Plant them 8” apart in the garden. Keep them from being stressed by dry weather if you want the flavor to remain mild. Harvest in Early August.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.