As you relax in front of your Yule Log these next few weeks, enjoying both its warmth and the savings that it brings to you, take a moment now to plan on making next year’s firewood 20 proof or less. You might ask- what does that mean and why should I care? Well, wood that is greater than 20% moisture content (or proof) will not burn efficiently, and that will mean wasted heat and increased risk of a chimney fire.
OK, so how do you get your wood down to 20 proof or less? By giving it time and space to dry; here’s how.
1. Nine to 12 months before you need the firewood- cut, split, and stack wood in piles that are one log deep and spaced one log length apart.
2. Cover the top of the pile with plastic to keep the rain out and keep the bottom layer up off the ground to increase air circulation (which also helps keep snakes away).
Next fall, use your kitchen oven and some math to measure your wood’s moisture content; that will tell you what “proof” it is. Here is how …
Cut a small (1” thick) piece from the middle of several logs from different sections of the pile. Use a kitchen scale to weigh each piece; this is its fresh weight. Label and record the weight of each piece in ounces. Dry the pieces in your oven set at 200 to 250 degrees until their weight no longer changes; that could take 12-24 hours. Weigh each piece again and record the dry weight of each piece. The difference between each piece’s fresh and dry weights tells you how much water was in the wood. Divide the weight of the water by the dry weight of the wood to find the moisture content of the wood in your pile. The formula is [(FW – DW)/DW]*100 = Proof of the wood. Wood is ready to burn when the moisture content is 20 percent or less.
Here is an example. The fresh weight of piece #1 is 5 ¾ ounces and its dry weight is 5 ounces. So the wood contained ¾ ounce of water when it was “fresh.” Divide the weight of the water (3/4 or 0.75) by the dry weight (5) and multiply that answer (0.15) by 100. So … inserting the numbers into the formula would give you [(5.75 – 5)/5]*100 = 15 proof wood. The proof of your wood pieces will vary but as long as they are mostly less than 20 proof then your pile is dry enough to burn.
Tip for parents- Clip and save this article for the next time your kids ask you what good is math anyway. Being able to do the math above promotes efficient wood burning that helps the environment, saves you money, and reduces chances of a chimney fire!
See many more tips on Forest Stewardship at http://vip.cas.psu.edu/News.html or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Passing on the Legacy of Penn’s Woods
Many of the trees we see and enjoy in our yards and in woodlands are there because someone has a personal affinity for the land, its trees, and a commitment to caring for them. With 70% of the state's forestland held by individuals, families, hunting clubs, and other private groups, passing that legacy on to future generations will take some planning and communication with your heirs.
In the 2010 Exploring the Private Forestlands of Pennsylvania study, 53% of the current owners said they intend to leave their land to more than one heir. Under this scenario, land that was cared for to meet one or two person's values suddenly becomes subject to many more voices making decisions, and these voices don't often sing the same song.
With the holidays approaching and families and friends gathering, perhaps now is the time for you to take a walk in the woods with your heirs. Studies show that heirs want to maintain the legacy of previous generations, but often they don't feel included in the current decision-making and lack preparation for becoming the next forestland owner.
Start by telling them what you love and why your land is important to you. Relate a funny or moving story. And ask them to do the same. You may find in your conversation that your land is just as important to your heirs as it is to you. And maybe planning for its future becomes a more shared and engaged process for you, your family, and heirs than just wishing them luck when your will is read.
There are many resources available when one is ready to engage the estate or succession planning process. Forest Stewardship "Bulletin #13: Estate Planning" is one offered by Penn State Renewable Natural Resources Cooperative Extension. Visit http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh105.pdf to download a copy or contact our office at RNRext@psu.edu or call 800 234 9473 (toll free). A simple Internet search on forests and estate or succession planning will provide many other resources.
For this and other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
In the 2010 Exploring the Private Forestlands of Pennsylvania study, 53% of the current owners said they intend to leave their land to more than one heir. Under this scenario, land that was cared for to meet one or two person's values suddenly becomes subject to many more voices making decisions, and these voices don't often sing the same song.
With the holidays approaching and families and friends gathering, perhaps now is the time for you to take a walk in the woods with your heirs. Studies show that heirs want to maintain the legacy of previous generations, but often they don't feel included in the current decision-making and lack preparation for becoming the next forestland owner.
Start by telling them what you love and why your land is important to you. Relate a funny or moving story. And ask them to do the same. You may find in your conversation that your land is just as important to your heirs as it is to you. And maybe planning for its future becomes a more shared and engaged process for you, your family, and heirs than just wishing them luck when your will is read.
There are many resources available when one is ready to engage the estate or succession planning process. Forest Stewardship "Bulletin #13: Estate Planning" is one offered by Penn State Renewable Natural Resources Cooperative Extension. Visit http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh105.pdf to download a copy or contact our office at RNRext@psu.edu or call 800 234 9473 (toll free). A simple Internet search on forests and estate or succession planning will provide many other resources.
For this and other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Indoors It Is!
Indoors it is, as the weather is unpredictable, and the days are growing shorter faster. Do you miss the lush greens and colors of the growing season? If so, consider brightening the inside of your home with some new houseplants. A bit of color and new life can do wonders for all of us.
Houseplants can found for sale at your local greenhouse, the big box retailers, flea markets, and even friends often divide and share their own plants. There are several things to look for when shopping for a healthy plant. Inspect the leaves carefully. They should have the right color, shape, size and be free of blemishes or brown edges and lower leaves should not be pale or yellow. A good specimen should not look leggy or sparse. It should have a good, balanced shape and not be top heavy. Look closely at stems and leaves for any signs of insects or disease. Finally, look at the pot and soil. If roots are growing through the drainage holes or are seen at the soil surface, the plant has probably outgrown its pot. If you choose this plant, special care will be needed when transplanting into a larger pot. Most importantly, look for a proper label, which will give you all the necessary information to care for your new housemate.
Once you have made your selection, it is a good idea to keep a new plant away from other plants for 2-3 weeks. This will protect the other plants from possible attack by any insects or disease you might have missed. Often, they have been grown in greenhouse conditions and highly controlled environments so they may go through a period of shock. Also, plants drop some leaves or some leaves may yellow when first brought into a new environment. This adjustment period should not last more than a few weeks. During this time, keep the plant relatively cool to help minimize water loss through its leaves. Check the soil regularly to determine when to water. Also, do not fertilize at this time, since the plant is adjusting to lower light and humidity conditions.
Other factors to keep in mind for your houseplants:
- Exposure: Some plants like direct sunlight; others prefer filtered light through curtain
- Moisture: Most house plants are of tropical origin and their watering needs vary.
- Temperature: Some, like poinsettias and begonias, like warmth but spider plants and florist mums like it cooler. Avoid drafts in the winter time, so keep your plants way from exterior doors.
It is important to note that most houseplants are safe; some can cause problems or reactions. Please consider this in your selection. Children and pets should be kept away from houseplants anyway, but an unfamiliar and new item brings our curiosity. For help in selecting a houseplant, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have facts sheets for this. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a copy of “Houseplant Guide”
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Dahlias: To Dig or Not to Dig
Dahlias are considered tender perennials and as such they need to be protected from the winter cold. Many tender perennials survive very well left in the ground when provided with a thick layer of insulation from straw, leaves or mulch. Others need to be removed from the ground and stored in a cool dry area.In most northern climates, Dahlias would fall into the group of those plants that need to be removed. Left in the soil they are susceptible to excess moisture and may rot or freeze. Wait to dig until after a killing frost. This allows the plant to produce the maximum amount of food stored in this “tuber” (it actually is a tuberous root) for beautiful growth the following year. Cut the tops back to a few inches. Carefully lift out of the soil without damaging the tubers.
Store in a cool location with temperatures around 50 degrees F. Storing in coarse vermiculite will help to maintain enough moisture to prevent the tubers from shriveling but not enough to cause them to rot.
You can find this article (by Mary Conklin) and other useful gardening articles in the Oct-Dec, 2011 issue of Bloomin ‘n News at http://extension.psu.edu/montgomery/programs/master-gardener.
Curious about the differences among tubers, tuberous roots, bulbs, rhizomes, and corms? Then visit http://www.pcmg-texas.org/BulbsCormsTubers.pdf. For other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Store in a cool location with temperatures around 50 degrees F. Storing in coarse vermiculite will help to maintain enough moisture to prevent the tubers from shriveling but not enough to cause them to rot.
You can find this article (by Mary Conklin) and other useful gardening articles in the Oct-Dec, 2011 issue of Bloomin ‘n News at http://extension.psu.edu/montgomery/programs/master-gardener.
Curious about the differences among tubers, tuberous roots, bulbs, rhizomes, and corms? Then visit http://www.pcmg-texas.org/BulbsCormsTubers.pdf. For other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, October 17, 2011
Forcing Bulbs for Inside Winter Color
Growing bulbs inside is one of the great joys of winter. To get ready, scour store sales and garage sales for containers to plant various bulbs in to give as holiday gifts. There is nothing like the cheer of an amaryllis or daffodil; or a little antique teacup filled with lily of the valley to perk up a gray day! And, best of all, it is easy.
Bulbs that gardeners enjoy planting inside include amaryllis, daffodils, tulips, paper whites, crocus, hyacinth, and lily of the valley. These commonly available bulbs are lovely and adapt to a variety of indoor conditions obligingly. However, the list of plants that can be forced into bloom goes beyond this. Calla lilies, oxalis, grape hyacinth, freesia, and ranunculus are others that you could try.
The package should list the plant’s preferred growing conditions. It is a good idea to use a thermometer to check the temperature of the location that you would like to place a bulb for forcing. Some bulbs and plants may require cooler or warmer locations that you hopefully have conveniently available. Most bulbs require a chilling period of up to six weeks before growing them. A spare refrigerator set at a low temperature works well for beverages… and bulbs. Be sure to store the bulbs in a box with barely moist peat moss so they do not touch each other in storage.
Or, you could place them in pots and keep them outside in a protected area covered with mulch or in a cold frame type structure for a few weeks. Stagger bringing them in so you will have flowers all winter long.
And as long as you are potting up bulbs, you could try growing grass seed in interesting pots to add life to a coffee table or shelf. If you want it for a particular time, allow about two weeks to grow the grass.
To find instructions on forcing bulbs go to http://www.extension.org/ and enter “Forcing Bulbs” in the Search Field. You also can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/ or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Bulbs that gardeners enjoy planting inside include amaryllis, daffodils, tulips, paper whites, crocus, hyacinth, and lily of the valley. These commonly available bulbs are lovely and adapt to a variety of indoor conditions obligingly. However, the list of plants that can be forced into bloom goes beyond this. Calla lilies, oxalis, grape hyacinth, freesia, and ranunculus are others that you could try.
The package should list the plant’s preferred growing conditions. It is a good idea to use a thermometer to check the temperature of the location that you would like to place a bulb for forcing. Some bulbs and plants may require cooler or warmer locations that you hopefully have conveniently available. Most bulbs require a chilling period of up to six weeks before growing them. A spare refrigerator set at a low temperature works well for beverages… and bulbs. Be sure to store the bulbs in a box with barely moist peat moss so they do not touch each other in storage.
Or, you could place them in pots and keep them outside in a protected area covered with mulch or in a cold frame type structure for a few weeks. Stagger bringing them in so you will have flowers all winter long.
And as long as you are potting up bulbs, you could try growing grass seed in interesting pots to add life to a coffee table or shelf. If you want it for a particular time, allow about two weeks to grow the grass.
To find instructions on forcing bulbs go to http://www.extension.org/ and enter “Forcing Bulbs” in the Search Field. You also can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/ or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Do you know where your pesticides are … ?
As you start wrapping up your garden for the season, consider this survey result: almost one half of surveyed households with children under the age of 5 had at least one pesticide stored within a child's reach. Proper pesticide storage helps prolong chemical shelf life while protecting the health of people, animals and the environment. Read the product label for specific storage information. Some basic tips for storing pesticides include:
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
- Store pesticides in locked cabinets.
- Always store pesticides in their original containers with their tops tightly closed.
- Never store pesticides in any food or drink container.
- Never store pesticides in cabinets near food, potable water, animal feed, medical supplies, protective clothing, seed, fertilizers or gasoline.
- Keep pesticides stored in cool dry areas to avoid temperature extremes.
- Store dry pesticides above liquid pesticides.
- Never store pesticides in application equipment.
- Keep emergency numbers handy.
- Reduce storage needs by buying only the amount and type of pesticide needed for the upcoming year.
- Read the label!
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees and Shrubs
After last week’s storms the coming weeks would be a good time to assess rain and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ and select “Find a Tree Care Service” to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ and select “Find a Tree Care Service” to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, August 15, 2011
Sustainable Forests
How well are we caring for the trees in our backyard?
If you are wondering how well we are doing and what we can do about it, the second National Report on Sustainable Forests for the United States and related studies highlight three overarching issues.
First, we are going to face challenges as we lose forest land near urban centers. Development also increases fragmentation (breaks in the forest for roads, etc.) that can cause problems for forest plants and wildlife. These forest losses and fragmentation can affect the quality of our air, water, wildlife habitat, and recreational opportunities. In addition, jobs tied to forestry and forest products would decline. And while harvesting trees is not the leading reason among private landowners for holding land, a lack of markets over time will mean more land is lost to development.
Secondly, our forests are at risk from climate change and bioenergy demand. Already, there is evidence of forests being affected by changes in temperature, precipitation, and insects. We know forests sequester large amounts of carbon and that many people believe they are a source of carbon neutral energy. Harvesting our forests for energy could adversely alter our ecological and economic landscapes.
Finally, forest health and disturbance patterns could lead to unexpected consequences. Careful management and tracking are important on all forests.
To read the National Report on Sustainable Forests - 2010, enter the title into your web browser. If you want help managing your woodlot following principles of sustainable forestry, request a copy of Forest Stewardship Principles for Landowners by calling the Forest Stewardship office at Penn State (800-235-9473) or download a copy at http://sfp.cas.psu.edu/pdfs/FSPrinciples.pdf
If you would like to find out about local groups working on forest issues or just to attend some local workshops … consider attending the events listed below!
Saturday, September 24. Wayne-Lackawanna Forest Landowners Association: Forest and Wildlife Habitat Management on Pennsylvania’s State Forests, 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Lackawanna State Forest Headquarters, Thornhurst, PA. RSVPs are required; lunch provided. Contact John Maza for directions and questions, 570-945-7133 or jmaza@state.pa.us.
Thursday, November 3. Wayne-Lackawanna Forest Landowners Association: Management and Biology of Black Bears in Pennsylvania, 6:30 p.m., St. Rose Academy, Mayfield. Refreshments provided. RSVP to Joe Preate, 570-430-6316 or jpreate@aol.com
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
If you are wondering how well we are doing and what we can do about it, the second National Report on Sustainable Forests for the United States and related studies highlight three overarching issues.
First, we are going to face challenges as we lose forest land near urban centers. Development also increases fragmentation (breaks in the forest for roads, etc.) that can cause problems for forest plants and wildlife. These forest losses and fragmentation can affect the quality of our air, water, wildlife habitat, and recreational opportunities. In addition, jobs tied to forestry and forest products would decline. And while harvesting trees is not the leading reason among private landowners for holding land, a lack of markets over time will mean more land is lost to development.
Secondly, our forests are at risk from climate change and bioenergy demand. Already, there is evidence of forests being affected by changes in temperature, precipitation, and insects. We know forests sequester large amounts of carbon and that many people believe they are a source of carbon neutral energy. Harvesting our forests for energy could adversely alter our ecological and economic landscapes.
Finally, forest health and disturbance patterns could lead to unexpected consequences. Careful management and tracking are important on all forests.
To read the National Report on Sustainable Forests - 2010, enter the title into your web browser. If you want help managing your woodlot following principles of sustainable forestry, request a copy of Forest Stewardship Principles for Landowners by calling the Forest Stewardship office at Penn State (800-235-9473) or download a copy at http://sfp.cas.psu.edu/pdfs/FSPrinciples.pdf
If you would like to find out about local groups working on forest issues or just to attend some local workshops … consider attending the events listed below!
Saturday, September 24. Wayne-Lackawanna Forest Landowners Association: Forest and Wildlife Habitat Management on Pennsylvania’s State Forests, 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Lackawanna State Forest Headquarters, Thornhurst, PA. RSVPs are required; lunch provided. Contact John Maza for directions and questions, 570-945-7133 or jmaza@state.pa.us.
Thursday, November 3. Wayne-Lackawanna Forest Landowners Association: Management and Biology of Black Bears in Pennsylvania, 6:30 p.m., St. Rose Academy, Mayfield. Refreshments provided. RSVP to Joe Preate, 570-430-6316 or jpreate@aol.com
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, August 8, 2011
Harvest
Finally, after all the hard work, timing the weather, and defending your garden from invaders, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. There are so many advantages to a home garden: you plant what you know you will like, you are confident in the manner of care because you did it yourself, and you know what was used or not used on the plants. The hobby is in full production now. In order to pick the vegetables when they are at their peak, keep in mind the following:
Bigger isn’t always better
Most vegetables attain their best eating quality when allowed to ripen on the plant, but often this peak quality is reached before the vegetable is fully mature. Many crops can be harvested several times over the growing season. Some plants, like green peppers, can be picked when they are of useable size, but red peppers should be picked when the color is uniform. Color and firmness, not size, applies to tomatoes too.
Time matters
Seed and transplant producers usually provide “days to maturity”, but this information is a guide. Several factors such as weather, soil fertility, and overall care can influence the growth cycle. Pick your vegetables in the morning, but when the plants are dry. Working in your garden when it is wet is an easy way to spread disease, such as septoria leaf spot on tomatoes. Harvesting early in the day means they are at their peak for crispness, sweetness, and juiciness, after resting and regaining their lost moisture from the previous day. Frequent picking prolongs the harvest.
Handle with care
Be gentle with garden plants while harvesting. Damaged or bruised vegetables can become decayed easily, rendering them useless. If vegetables are not easily removed when twisted or pulled, use a knife, scissors, or hand pruners. These tools help prevent tearing or breaking of a plant which could lead to disease infection. Remember to sanitize and clean your tools frequently. Be gentle with the host plant too. Most bear fruit several times in a season. Future harvest depends on the quality and health of the whole plant.
These are general tips to help in harvesting. Each particular vegetable variety has its own timetable. Some crops are early season, liking cooler weather, and others do better picked after the first frost. For more information on picking vegetables, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request the free publication “Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables.”
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Bigger isn’t always better
Most vegetables attain their best eating quality when allowed to ripen on the plant, but often this peak quality is reached before the vegetable is fully mature. Many crops can be harvested several times over the growing season. Some plants, like green peppers, can be picked when they are of useable size, but red peppers should be picked when the color is uniform. Color and firmness, not size, applies to tomatoes too.
Time matters
Seed and transplant producers usually provide “days to maturity”, but this information is a guide. Several factors such as weather, soil fertility, and overall care can influence the growth cycle. Pick your vegetables in the morning, but when the plants are dry. Working in your garden when it is wet is an easy way to spread disease, such as septoria leaf spot on tomatoes. Harvesting early in the day means they are at their peak for crispness, sweetness, and juiciness, after resting and regaining their lost moisture from the previous day. Frequent picking prolongs the harvest.
Handle with care
Be gentle with garden plants while harvesting. Damaged or bruised vegetables can become decayed easily, rendering them useless. If vegetables are not easily removed when twisted or pulled, use a knife, scissors, or hand pruners. These tools help prevent tearing or breaking of a plant which could lead to disease infection. Remember to sanitize and clean your tools frequently. Be gentle with the host plant too. Most bear fruit several times in a season. Future harvest depends on the quality and health of the whole plant.
These are general tips to help in harvesting. Each particular vegetable variety has its own timetable. Some crops are early season, liking cooler weather, and others do better picked after the first frost. For more information on picking vegetables, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request the free publication “Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables.”
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Friday, August 5, 2011
Join Us At....
Bill’s Ace Hardware
921 Drinker Turnpike
Covington TWP, PA 18444
(Every Saturday in August, 11 a.m.—2 p.m.)
And
The Scranton Cooperative Farmers Market
900 Barring Ave
(off Providence Rd. and Albright Ave.)
Scranton, PA 18508
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County will be available to answer your gardening questions and give you the latest research-based information on home horticultural topics. We have plenty of free publications and can help you with such topics as insect identification, disease management, composting, organic gardening, and more! Stop by and see us! For more information please call (570) 963-6842.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
921 Drinker Turnpike
Covington TWP, PA 18444
(Every Saturday in August, 11 a.m.—2 p.m.)
And
The Scranton Cooperative Farmers Market
900 Barring Ave
(off Providence Rd. and Albright Ave.)
Scranton, PA 18508
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County will be available to answer your gardening questions and give you the latest research-based information on home horticultural topics. We have plenty of free publications and can help you with such topics as insect identification, disease management, composting, organic gardening, and more! Stop by and see us! For more information please call (570) 963-6842.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Lawn Herbicide and Trees
Watch for Possible Broadleaf Lawn Herbicide Injury to Trees
Damage to trees due to broadleaf lawn herbicides is a rare event; but when it does occur, it can create a lot of anxiety and customer dissatisfaction. This year, damage has been observed on certain tree species (primarily Norway spruce and white pine) following spring applications of a new herbicide called Imprelis. Pete Landschoot, Professor of Turfgrass Science, recently provided an update on this situation. Here’s a brief summary of his report.
Effects on trees:
First, not all applications of Imprelis result in tree injury. The recently observed injury seems to be related to the soaking spring rains we experienced in April and May. We are not aware of any tree injury following fall applications.
In cases where injury did occur, symptoms to Norway spruce began as yellowing, curling, and browning of the current season’s growth. In some cases, injury does not progress much further than slight curling and browning of new growth; however, in other cases complete dieback is observed. In severe cases, the entire tree turns brown and begins to lose its needles. Trees of all ages have been affected to varying degrees. White pine injury appears as severe twisting and curling followed by needle drop of the new season’s growth. Because of the spiral pattern of the vascular system in many conifers, damage from herbicide uptake may even appear as a spiral on foliage.
What can be done about injured trees?
Since a number of factors can cause symptoms similar to Imprelis injury it’s important to make sure tree injury is a result of herbicide uptake. Call a qualified arborist or bring in samples to your local Penn State Extension office.
In cases where injury is clearly herbicide induced, do not fertilize trees for at least one growing season (excess growth can compound injury). If drought begins to set in, watering to alleviate stress may be useful on trees that received slight to moderate damage. Place a soaker hose on the soil near the trunk of injured Norway spruce trees that have low hanging branches. This allows slow irrigation of the soil directly under the tree, and reduces the risk of additional active ingredient being taken up by the tree. On trees with dieback, pruning should be delayed for up to a year to fully assess the extent of the damage, and to allow for recovery.
Penn State Cooperative Extension will provide updates as more information becomes available. To find the latest updates go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and search on the term Imprelis.
To read Dr. Landschoot’s full article go to http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/giec/news/2011/some-observations-on-imprelis-injury-to-trees Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Damage to trees due to broadleaf lawn herbicides is a rare event; but when it does occur, it can create a lot of anxiety and customer dissatisfaction. This year, damage has been observed on certain tree species (primarily Norway spruce and white pine) following spring applications of a new herbicide called Imprelis. Pete Landschoot, Professor of Turfgrass Science, recently provided an update on this situation. Here’s a brief summary of his report.
Effects on trees:
First, not all applications of Imprelis result in tree injury. The recently observed injury seems to be related to the soaking spring rains we experienced in April and May. We are not aware of any tree injury following fall applications.
In cases where injury did occur, symptoms to Norway spruce began as yellowing, curling, and browning of the current season’s growth. In some cases, injury does not progress much further than slight curling and browning of new growth; however, in other cases complete dieback is observed. In severe cases, the entire tree turns brown and begins to lose its needles. Trees of all ages have been affected to varying degrees. White pine injury appears as severe twisting and curling followed by needle drop of the new season’s growth. Because of the spiral pattern of the vascular system in many conifers, damage from herbicide uptake may even appear as a spiral on foliage.
What can be done about injured trees?
Since a number of factors can cause symptoms similar to Imprelis injury it’s important to make sure tree injury is a result of herbicide uptake. Call a qualified arborist or bring in samples to your local Penn State Extension office.
In cases where injury is clearly herbicide induced, do not fertilize trees for at least one growing season (excess growth can compound injury). If drought begins to set in, watering to alleviate stress may be useful on trees that received slight to moderate damage. Place a soaker hose on the soil near the trunk of injured Norway spruce trees that have low hanging branches. This allows slow irrigation of the soil directly under the tree, and reduces the risk of additional active ingredient being taken up by the tree. On trees with dieback, pruning should be delayed for up to a year to fully assess the extent of the damage, and to allow for recovery.
Penn State Cooperative Extension will provide updates as more information becomes available. To find the latest updates go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and search on the term Imprelis.
To read Dr. Landschoot’s full article go to http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/giec/news/2011/some-observations-on-imprelis-injury-to-trees Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Earwigs
There are many superstitions; some are amusing if we give them thought. Like: a rabbits foot will bring good luck, but not if you are the bunny. And who hasn’t thought about the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow? Some superstitions are curious, but most people won’t tempt fate. How many people take an elevator to the thirteenth floor? And who hasn’t seen that famous TV host/cook throw salt over her shoulder when she is in the kitchen prepping a meal?
Superstitions have led to the naming of a common insect found in the garden, and even your house, the earwig. The widespread lore of this bug is that it was thought to crawl into the ear of sleeping people, then bore into the brain. The name Earwig means “ear creature” coming from this superstition.
The most distinguishing physical feature of the earwig is the claw-like forceps on the end of the abdomen. Earwigs use their forceps mainly as protective weapons, but they also use them to capture prey. These pincers are straight on the female, and curved on the male insects.
While they are not brain invaders, they will enter the home by hitching a ride on laundry baskets, cut flowers and plants, newspapers, and fruits and vegetables. They will migrate indoors to find protection from prolonged heat and drought.
Prevention is the best and first line of defense to keep the earwig out of the home. They are attracted to lights, so minimizing the use of exterior lighting, if feasible, is a good way to start. Earwigs need, and are very attracted to, moisture. These scavengers are nocturnal, so they may be hard to notice during the day but are present around foundations, in mulch, under boards, etc. Be sure to eliminate damp, moist conditions around the house, such as under faucets and air conditioning units and around the foundation. Use caulking and weather stripping around doors, windows, pipes and other entry sites. Gravel or ornamental stones can be used to make a dry border, and act as an attractive barrier against earwigs. These steps will serve as an inhibitor to the earwig as well as other pests.
If pesticides are used, please read and follow all the directions. Be certain to choose a product labeled for use on earwigs. For more information on earwigs please contact the Penn State Master Gardner Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy of our fact sheet on this insect.
Superstitions have led to the naming of a common insect found in the garden, and even your house, the earwig. The widespread lore of this bug is that it was thought to crawl into the ear of sleeping people, then bore into the brain. The name Earwig means “ear creature” coming from this superstition.
The most distinguishing physical feature of the earwig is the claw-like forceps on the end of the abdomen. Earwigs use their forceps mainly as protective weapons, but they also use them to capture prey. These pincers are straight on the female, and curved on the male insects.
While they are not brain invaders, they will enter the home by hitching a ride on laundry baskets, cut flowers and plants, newspapers, and fruits and vegetables. They will migrate indoors to find protection from prolonged heat and drought.
Prevention is the best and first line of defense to keep the earwig out of the home. They are attracted to lights, so minimizing the use of exterior lighting, if feasible, is a good way to start. Earwigs need, and are very attracted to, moisture. These scavengers are nocturnal, so they may be hard to notice during the day but are present around foundations, in mulch, under boards, etc. Be sure to eliminate damp, moist conditions around the house, such as under faucets and air conditioning units and around the foundation. Use caulking and weather stripping around doors, windows, pipes and other entry sites. Gravel or ornamental stones can be used to make a dry border, and act as an attractive barrier against earwigs. These steps will serve as an inhibitor to the earwig as well as other pests.
If pesticides are used, please read and follow all the directions. Be certain to choose a product labeled for use on earwigs. For more information on earwigs please contact the Penn State Master Gardner Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy of our fact sheet on this insect.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Pollinator Friendly Gardens
Bees and other pollinators are hard workers, and that one-in-three bites of the food we eat is a direct result of their efforts?!
Pollinating insects play a vital role in Pennsylvania agriculture, and George Greig, Secretary of the PA Department of Agriculture, helped break ground on a pollinator –friendly garden at PDA’s headquarters in Harrisburg in celebration of ‘Pollinator Week’ June 20-26. The garden, which will be planted near an existing water retention garden, will be a habitat for pollinators like bees, beetles, flies, moths and butterflies.
Farmers depend on the work of these insects to pollinate 80 percent of the world’s crops, valued at more than $76 million each year in PA. In recent years, pollinator populations have declined for a number of reasons, from the loss of suitable habitat to pathogens and pesticides.
Pennsylvanians can and should play a role in pollinator protection by becoming backyard or small-scale beekeepers, planting pollinator-friendly gardens or increasing the use of native plants in gardenscapes. With your help, pollinators can continue to set fruit and produce seeds for the future!
Find out how you can help bees and other pollinators thrive by certifying your garden as pollinator friendly. To learn more about this program run by Penn State Master Gardeners visit our website at http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators/public-outreach/cert/Cert-steps-main Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu And look for updates on local efforts as they ramp up later this year.
Pollinating insects play a vital role in Pennsylvania agriculture, and George Greig, Secretary of the PA Department of Agriculture, helped break ground on a pollinator –friendly garden at PDA’s headquarters in Harrisburg in celebration of ‘Pollinator Week’ June 20-26. The garden, which will be planted near an existing water retention garden, will be a habitat for pollinators like bees, beetles, flies, moths and butterflies.
Farmers depend on the work of these insects to pollinate 80 percent of the world’s crops, valued at more than $76 million each year in PA. In recent years, pollinator populations have declined for a number of reasons, from the loss of suitable habitat to pathogens and pesticides.
Pennsylvanians can and should play a role in pollinator protection by becoming backyard or small-scale beekeepers, planting pollinator-friendly gardens or increasing the use of native plants in gardenscapes. With your help, pollinators can continue to set fruit and produce seeds for the future!
Find out how you can help bees and other pollinators thrive by certifying your garden as pollinator friendly. To learn more about this program run by Penn State Master Gardeners visit our website at http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators/public-outreach/cert/Cert-steps-main Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu And look for updates on local efforts as they ramp up later this year.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Carpenter Ants
With the level of rain exceeding normal limits and the limits of a gardener’s patience, comes concerns about the vitality of the home landscape. Too much water brings disease and decay which in turn may attract pests, such as the black carpenter ant.
In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.
They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.
The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.
The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.
Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.
The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.
To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.
If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.
For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.
They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.
The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.
The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.
Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.
The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.
To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.
If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.
For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Monday, June 13, 2011
Gardeners! Join the Fight to Stop Giant Hogweed!
Pennsylvania is winning its battle against Giant Hogweed, a noxious, invasive weed that can cause blistering and scarring on the skin of susceptible people, but more work remains.
Thanks to help from property owners statewide 'Nearly 80 percent of the known Giant Hogweed sites have been eradicated,' said state Agriculture Secretary George Greig. 'While we must remain vigilant, the goal of completely eradicating the invasive weed is achievable.' While more than half of confirmed Giant Hogweed sites in Pennsylvania are located in Erie County they also have been sighted in 11 other counties- including Carbon, Susquehanna and Wayne counties.
Giant Hogweed is spread naturally by seeds from a flowering plant, which can be windblown and scattered or carried by water. The ability of the seeds to remain alive in soil for many years makes prevention of seed production critical. Total eradication requires three years of repeated mechanical and chemical treatments to exhaust the seed bank at each location.
Residents with suspected sightings of a new plant population or an active preexisting site are asked to call the Giant Hogweed Hotline at 1-877-464-9333. Agriculture department field staff will schedule a site inspection.
How to Recognize Giant Hogweed: The best time to identify Giant Hogweed is when it's blooming, usually in June or July. The many small, white flowers are clustered into a flat-topped umbel up to 2½ ft. across. Stems are hollow, ridged, 2-4 inches in diameter, 8-14 ft. tall, with purple blotches and coarse white hairs. The hairs are especially prominent that circle the stem at the base of the leaf stalks. Leaves are lobed, deeply incised and up to 5 ft. across. Fruit (containing the seed) is dry, flattened, oval, about 3/8 in. long and tan with brown lines.
Brochures to aid in the identification of the plant are available at Department of Agriculture website at www.agriculture.state.pa.us and type “Giant Hogweed brochure” in the search box at the top right corner. Or go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and type in “Giant Hogweed” in the box next to the “Search College” field. For more information from PDA, contact the department’s Noxious Weed Program Manager Melissa Bravo at 717-787-7204. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thanks to help from property owners statewide 'Nearly 80 percent of the known Giant Hogweed sites have been eradicated,' said state Agriculture Secretary George Greig. 'While we must remain vigilant, the goal of completely eradicating the invasive weed is achievable.' While more than half of confirmed Giant Hogweed sites in Pennsylvania are located in Erie County they also have been sighted in 11 other counties- including Carbon, Susquehanna and Wayne counties.
Giant Hogweed is spread naturally by seeds from a flowering plant, which can be windblown and scattered or carried by water. The ability of the seeds to remain alive in soil for many years makes prevention of seed production critical. Total eradication requires three years of repeated mechanical and chemical treatments to exhaust the seed bank at each location.
Residents with suspected sightings of a new plant population or an active preexisting site are asked to call the Giant Hogweed Hotline at 1-877-464-9333. Agriculture department field staff will schedule a site inspection.
How to Recognize Giant Hogweed: The best time to identify Giant Hogweed is when it's blooming, usually in June or July. The many small, white flowers are clustered into a flat-topped umbel up to 2½ ft. across. Stems are hollow, ridged, 2-4 inches in diameter, 8-14 ft. tall, with purple blotches and coarse white hairs. The hairs are especially prominent that circle the stem at the base of the leaf stalks. Leaves are lobed, deeply incised and up to 5 ft. across. Fruit (containing the seed) is dry, flattened, oval, about 3/8 in. long and tan with brown lines.
Brochures to aid in the identification of the plant are available at Department of Agriculture website at www.agriculture.state.pa.us and type “Giant Hogweed brochure” in the search box at the top right corner. Or go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and type in “Giant Hogweed” in the box next to the “Search College” field. For more information from PDA, contact the department’s Noxious Weed Program Manager Melissa Bravo at 717-787-7204. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Skunk Control
The lushness of the seasons is finally upon us. The trees gently shading us with their green canopies. The rhododendrons are in full bloom, whites, subtle purples, and the reds of the related azaleas welcome us home. Even the dandelions tease us with a cheery carpet of yellow. Two colors though, should serve as a warning: black and white. A dangerous combination, more often “scented” than seen, the mephitis mephitis, the striped skunk is a common visitor to our yard.
Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if these are evident and excessive.
Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.
Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live; as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.
Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert. For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of our Skunks Wildlife Control publication.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if these are evident and excessive.
Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.
Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live; as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.
Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert. For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of our Skunks Wildlife Control publication.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Don't Bury Your Tree
In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Wildfires: Not in My Backyard!
Clearing and burning brush seems like a straightforward way to keep your garden, landscape and surrounding woods clean. Unfortunately, many gardeners are unaware of the wildfire risk posed by some brush management practices. And news reports of intense wildfires in western states, which usually are caused by lightening, only add to misperceptions about the cause of wildfires in eastern states. The majority of Eastern wildfires are caused by humans, with debris burning and arson as the leading culprits.
'Wildfire', a new four-page booklet in the popular From the Woods youth series, talks about wildfires and controlled burns in the Eastern United States. It describes the differences between Eastern and Western wildfires; including the time of year they are mostly likely to occur, types of wildfires, and their causes.
The release of From the Woods: Wildfire coincides with Pennsylvania's peak wildfire season. During the spring and the fall when the leaves are off the trees, the sun and wind dries leaves, twigs, and branches on the forest floor. Spring also is the time when many of us go outside to clear brush, leaves, and debris from the yard. Some may wait for a sunny, dry, breezy day to burn the debris. Unfortunately, those are the worst days to burn debris since the flames can quickly spread to dry grass or nearby wooded areas. Homeowners must use extra caution when burning debris to prevent spread and protect their properties. 'Wildfire' reviews simple steps you can take to protect your home, not only from your own actions, but also should a larger wildfire occur.
The booklet also explains why not all fires are harmful. Trained professionals conduct controlled burns as a useful tool to restore native landscapes and manage vegetation.
PA residents can obtain one free copy of 'Wildfire' by calling 814-865-6713; anyone can download it for free at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh191.pdf The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800-234-9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or visit our website at http://extension.psu.edu/paforeststewards
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
PLEASE JOIN US on Saturday, May 7 for Breakfast, Business, and Bugs! Enjoy a hot breakfast at 9 AM ($7.00) and your County Cooperative Extension Association annual meeting (no charge) at 9:30ish. Then join our Master Gardeners for a plant sale and workshop ($5.00) on Bugs: Good versus Evil, and Organic Pest Control for Gardeners. Come to any or all sessions. Please register by May 3rd by calling 963-6842 or emailing us at LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Registration for breakfast starts at 8:30; for the gardening workshop at 10:30 with talks from 11AM to 1 PM. Seating is limited!
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
'Wildfire', a new four-page booklet in the popular From the Woods youth series, talks about wildfires and controlled burns in the Eastern United States. It describes the differences between Eastern and Western wildfires; including the time of year they are mostly likely to occur, types of wildfires, and their causes.
The release of From the Woods: Wildfire coincides with Pennsylvania's peak wildfire season. During the spring and the fall when the leaves are off the trees, the sun and wind dries leaves, twigs, and branches on the forest floor. Spring also is the time when many of us go outside to clear brush, leaves, and debris from the yard. Some may wait for a sunny, dry, breezy day to burn the debris. Unfortunately, those are the worst days to burn debris since the flames can quickly spread to dry grass or nearby wooded areas. Homeowners must use extra caution when burning debris to prevent spread and protect their properties. 'Wildfire' reviews simple steps you can take to protect your home, not only from your own actions, but also should a larger wildfire occur.
The booklet also explains why not all fires are harmful. Trained professionals conduct controlled burns as a useful tool to restore native landscapes and manage vegetation.
PA residents can obtain one free copy of 'Wildfire' by calling 814-865-6713; anyone can download it for free at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh191.pdf The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800-234-9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or visit our website at http://extension.psu.edu/paforeststewards
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
PLEASE JOIN US on Saturday, May 7 for Breakfast, Business, and Bugs! Enjoy a hot breakfast at 9 AM ($7.00) and your County Cooperative Extension Association annual meeting (no charge) at 9:30ish. Then join our Master Gardeners for a plant sale and workshop ($5.00) on Bugs: Good versus Evil, and Organic Pest Control for Gardeners. Come to any or all sessions. Please register by May 3rd by calling 963-6842 or emailing us at LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Registration for breakfast starts at 8:30; for the gardening workshop at 10:30 with talks from 11AM to 1 PM. Seating is limited!
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Saturday School, Plant Sale and Extension Annual Meeting on 5/7: 'From the Ground Up' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening and participate in the Extension Annual Meeting. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Save your trees, your back and your wallet from mulch volcanoes!
In my March 20th article I wrote about early spring mulching tasks to do that would help your garden grow. Today I want to talk a bit about a popular mulching practice NOT to do - those huge “mulch volcanoes” that you see around trees. They are a waste of money and harmful to trees. But you ask – I see them around trees maintained by professional landscapers?! Yes, that’s true, and landscapers should know better. Intrigued? … please read on! Mounds of mulch around tree trunks encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make mulch volcanoes that can only harm your trees, not help them. Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the “root flare” is the zone where the tree trunk widens out a bit as it turns into the root system and the flare should be visible right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted (or has sunk) too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees. Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?
- Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
- Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree (where the branches farthest from the trunk end). The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
- Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
- Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.
For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, April 4, 2011
Saturday School on 4/16: 'Out On A Limb' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Gardeners Have Mulch To Do In Early Spring
There isn't a lot you can do in a Pennsylvania flower garden on a March day, even if it's sunny and warm. But Robert Berghage, associate professor of horticulture in the College of Agricultural Sciences, recommends spreading mulch to delay plant emergence as long as possible.
"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."
Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.
Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.
"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."
Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.
"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."
If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."
Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.
Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.
"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."
Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.
"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."
If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Saturday School on 4/2: 'From the Ground Up' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Friday, February 25, 2011
Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees & Shrubs
Last week we discussed the various types of plant damage that can happen during the winter. After all this winter’s storms, the coming weeks would be a good time to assess ice, snow and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Winter Injury
Phil made his predication a couple weeks ago that we will have an early spring, and it seems that so far the indications are true. We have had a string of warmer weather. The days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger. As much as most of us would like this season to be over, the pattern is that this is just a tease. As tough as these long winters are on us, it is much rougher on the home landscape.
Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.
Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.
Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.
Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.
For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.
Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.
Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.
Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.
Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.
For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Master Gardener Training
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County will be offering the Master Gardener Training Program starting in March 2011. This program involves extensive training in the major aspects of home horticulture. In addition, candidates will commit to fifty hours of volunteer time including staffing the garden helpline. The training will be held Tuesdays 1pm – 4pm beginning March 1st through May 24th. For more information or an application, please call 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
What’s Munching On My Garden And What Can I Do About It?
If you want to know what animal assaulted your apple tree or committed a felony on your tulips, you should learn crime-scene-investigation techniques. Gary San Julian, Penn State professor of wildlife resources, will kick-off a free online seminar series about those techniques at noon and at 7 p.m. on Feb. 7. The series of one-hour webinars about wildlife damage will continue on the first Monday of each month through May. You will learn how to recognize just who the culprit is and techniques for dissuading the attentions of some of the more persistent wildlife critters.
To view live and previously recorded webinars, all you need is a "Friend of Penn State” user ID, a high-speed Internet connection, and a computer with sound. To register and take part in the live webinars or to watch programs in the archives, visit the Pennsylvania Forests Web Seminar Center website (http://rnrext.cas.psu.edu/PAForestWeb/). If you do not already have a Friend of Penn State user ID, click “Register Now” on the Seminar Center website and it will walk you through the process.
Archived sessions will be available at the Seminar Center website, along with a copy of the presentation and any handout materials, so you can watch it at your convenience.
Other webinars scheduled in the Wildlife Damage series include:
For a list of free publications on a variety of Forest-related topics, call 800-234-9473, send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 416 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802.
For the full article about the Wildlife Damage webinars and other Forest Stewardship programs, go to http://live.psu.edu/story/51033#nw69, or contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini
Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
To view live and previously recorded webinars, all you need is a "Friend of Penn State” user ID, a high-speed Internet connection, and a computer with sound. To register and take part in the live webinars or to watch programs in the archives, visit the Pennsylvania Forests Web Seminar Center website (http://rnrext.cas.psu.edu/PAForestWeb/). If you do not already have a Friend of Penn State user ID, click “Register Now” on the Seminar Center website and it will walk you through the process.
Archived sessions will be available at the Seminar Center website, along with a copy of the presentation and any handout materials, so you can watch it at your convenience.
Other webinars scheduled in the Wildlife Damage series include:
- March 7: "Groundhogs -- the Good, the Bad, and the Funny."
- April 4: "The 'oles -- Give me a V, give me an M." This presentation is about voles and moles.
- May 2: "Squirrels and Chippies Acting Out."
For a list of free publications on a variety of Forest-related topics, call 800-234-9473, send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or write to Forest Stewardship Program, Forest Resources Extension, The Pennsylvania State University, 416 Forest Resources Building, University Park, PA 16802.
For the full article about the Wildlife Damage webinars and other Forest Stewardship programs, go to http://live.psu.edu/story/51033#nw69, or contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini
Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, January 31, 2011
Wildlife Damage in Winter
While the attention this week will be on our friend Phil, the rest of his kin will still be hibernating well into the month of March. The groundhog is notorious for doing quite a bit of damage around the home landscape. Who hasn’t lost a tomato in its prime or noticed gnawed ornamentals in their yard? This time of year, in the dead of winter the groundhog is not to blame. A fair amount of landscape injury comes from 'A Tail of Two Critters'. The whitetail deer and the cottontail rabbit can do extensive damage in winter around your home.
Whitetail deer are selective and adaptive eaters. Their eating habits change with the seasons and availability of a food source. They may ignore a planting in summer but turn to it when nothing else is around to sustain them. Often deer will try plants for taste, so you may notice a plant ripped and left behind as it did not please the animal’s pallet. Signs of deer damage are jagged or torn stem ends, bark that seems to have been rubbed off and of course their droppings.
Cottontail rabbits are active all year round and can usually be seen dawn to dusk. As they need cover to protect themselves from predators, they are often seen around brush piles, field edges, and landscaped backyards. There they find suitable food as well. Rabbits can do a serve amount of damage in the winter when other food supplies have dwindled to the point of actually killing some trees and shrubs. Telltale signs are patches of gnawed bark within two and half feet of the ground. Distinctive to the rabbit is their clipping of stems which resembles a knife cut.
Exclusion is the first step to protect your landscape from damage. Most people like the bucolic scene of deer roaming in nature so fencing around individual plantings is usually the choice. Remember, deer are hungry and can reach over to eat so height is a consideration. For the cottontail, two to four foot of chicken wire tight to the ground is a hindrance. Wire-hardware cloth and tree guards will offer some protection to the trunks too.
Repellants have been shown to be successful in conjunction with other means of control. If you choose to use such a product, please follow the labeled directions. There are a lot variables to consider when using repellents as the animals’ eating habits change with availability. They are best used at the onset of visible damage.
Both rabbits and deer are protected and cannot be harmed outside of the established hunting times. Because of the prolific nature of the rabbit’s reproduction, trapping is generally not effective. For more information on controlling the damage these two tails can do, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request the Winter Wildlife Packet. In addition, there is a new Master Gardener training class scheduled to begin in March, contact us for more information.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Whitetail deer are selective and adaptive eaters. Their eating habits change with the seasons and availability of a food source. They may ignore a planting in summer but turn to it when nothing else is around to sustain them. Often deer will try plants for taste, so you may notice a plant ripped and left behind as it did not please the animal’s pallet. Signs of deer damage are jagged or torn stem ends, bark that seems to have been rubbed off and of course their droppings.
Cottontail rabbits are active all year round and can usually be seen dawn to dusk. As they need cover to protect themselves from predators, they are often seen around brush piles, field edges, and landscaped backyards. There they find suitable food as well. Rabbits can do a serve amount of damage in the winter when other food supplies have dwindled to the point of actually killing some trees and shrubs. Telltale signs are patches of gnawed bark within two and half feet of the ground. Distinctive to the rabbit is their clipping of stems which resembles a knife cut.
Exclusion is the first step to protect your landscape from damage. Most people like the bucolic scene of deer roaming in nature so fencing around individual plantings is usually the choice. Remember, deer are hungry and can reach over to eat so height is a consideration. For the cottontail, two to four foot of chicken wire tight to the ground is a hindrance. Wire-hardware cloth and tree guards will offer some protection to the trunks too.
Repellants have been shown to be successful in conjunction with other means of control. If you choose to use such a product, please follow the labeled directions. There are a lot variables to consider when using repellents as the animals’ eating habits change with availability. They are best used at the onset of visible damage.
Both rabbits and deer are protected and cannot be harmed outside of the established hunting times. Because of the prolific nature of the rabbit’s reproduction, trapping is generally not effective. For more information on controlling the damage these two tails can do, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request the Winter Wildlife Packet. In addition, there is a new Master Gardener training class scheduled to begin in March, contact us for more information.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners
I know, making New Year’s resolutions is so two weeks ago … but hey, there’s still time to make some resolutions that will give you a healthier garden, help protect your family and the environment, and (without having to make another resolution) probably help you lose a few pounds along the way!
Here are 12 resolutions for the coming year, adapted from a list developed by Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor from the University of Vermont.
- Start a compost pile for leaves, plant residues, and kitchen scraps to be mixed in your soil as compost or around your plants as mulch to enrich your garden and improve plant growth.
- Use biological controls whenever feasible for insects and diseases in the garden, starting with planting pest-resistant varieties.
- Apply pesticides (whether conventional or organic) only as a last resort and always use them safely and prudently.
- Store all garden chemicals (pesticides, fertilizers, etc.) in their original containers, out of reach of children and pets, and preferably in a locked storage area.
- Use fertilizers only as indicated by soil tests, and use organic forms whenever possible.
- Mow properly (often, not too high or low), and set up your mower to “leave grass clippings lay” (or compost them) so they will recycle organic matter and nutrients back into the soil.
- Conserve water by mulching, using efficient watering methods such as drip irrigation systems, and selecting drought-resistant ornamental plants.
- Develop a landscape plan that works with the environment, for example, ground covers on steep banks to prevent soil erosion and shade trees on the sunny side of a home to act as a natural air conditioner. Landscaping also can help reduce temperature extremes, filter out air pollutants, and stop noise.
- Create natural wildlife habitats by planting trees and shrubs that provide food or cover or by leaving brush and undergrowth in certain areas for birds, rabbits, and other small animals to use as a protective haven.
- Provide food and water for the birds and to continue to feed them once they have come to depend on you.
- Establish and maintain pollinator-friendly plantings and use gardening methods that protect and nurture both “wild” and managed pollinators.
- Encourage others, whenever possible, to do all they can to help preserve the environment and our natural resources.
If you have questions, contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Friday, January 7, 2011
Landscaping for Wildlife
Many of the gifts we receive during the holiday season are to keep us warm during the harsh winter. Fleece, scarves, gloves, and flannel give us protection. Hot cocoa, soothing tea, a bountiful meal with friends and family provide comfort and sustenance. As winter grows longer, the deeper we go into our homes for shelter. The other kind of Pennsylvania residents, the wildlife among us, don’t have such things.
These animals have three options: migrate, hibernate, or stay active. Those that are active face dire circumstances. The same frigid cold, blowing winds, cold rain, snow and ice we face every day. Some of which may keep us from work, social times, and school, but our little friends face as well with little or no comfort.
Their only recourse is to find quality habitat which make the difference between perishing or surviving until spring. Some animals find protection in rock walls, brush piles, downed wood, or underground. For many though, evergreens often provide the best winter, or thermal, cover. Pines, hemlocks, spruces, and even rhododendrons protect birds and other mammals from the wind, snow and ice, as they keep their leaves and needles throughout the winter.
It is common for example to find black-capped chickadees taking refuge in conifer foliage with their heads tucked under their wings to conserve energy. Ruffled grouse, woodcocks, and wild turkey, and rabbits will seek refuge there too.
For the homeowner, there are a few things to consider not doing right now. Keep low hanging branches of evergreens, especially if they touch the ground. These are valuable places of protection. Consider keeping bunches of ornamental grasses too. They tend to stay upright and in clumps providing a good source of shelter. Don’t be in too much of a hurry to remove brush piles either. What you can do is take a few moments in the dead of winter to look for signs of life. Appreciate what you have to keep you warm and look for ways to sustain our outside friends.
The Penn State Master Gardeners have the free publication “Landscaping for Wildlife: Trees, Shrubs, and Vines” call 570-963-6842 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
These animals have three options: migrate, hibernate, or stay active. Those that are active face dire circumstances. The same frigid cold, blowing winds, cold rain, snow and ice we face every day. Some of which may keep us from work, social times, and school, but our little friends face as well with little or no comfort.
Their only recourse is to find quality habitat which make the difference between perishing or surviving until spring. Some animals find protection in rock walls, brush piles, downed wood, or underground. For many though, evergreens often provide the best winter, or thermal, cover. Pines, hemlocks, spruces, and even rhododendrons protect birds and other mammals from the wind, snow and ice, as they keep their leaves and needles throughout the winter.
It is common for example to find black-capped chickadees taking refuge in conifer foliage with their heads tucked under their wings to conserve energy. Ruffled grouse, woodcocks, and wild turkey, and rabbits will seek refuge there too.
For the homeowner, there are a few things to consider not doing right now. Keep low hanging branches of evergreens, especially if they touch the ground. These are valuable places of protection. Consider keeping bunches of ornamental grasses too. They tend to stay upright and in clumps providing a good source of shelter. Don’t be in too much of a hurry to remove brush piles either. What you can do is take a few moments in the dead of winter to look for signs of life. Appreciate what you have to keep you warm and look for ways to sustain our outside friends.
The Penn State Master Gardeners have the free publication “Landscaping for Wildlife: Trees, Shrubs, and Vines” call 570-963-6842 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
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