Winter Bird Feeders

Are you looking for something to do now that the holiday season is over? Like most people this time of year, you may yearn to be outside but it's too cold to stay there long. You should think about putting up a bird feeder. An overlooked gift card to a garden center or big box home improvement store can be beneficial to you, giving you a project, and helpful to some wildlife when they need it most.

By adding a feeder to your yard you can make their lives easier. As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which gives you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. A bonus would be to take up bird watching as a hobby too. You find anywhere from twenty-five to thirty-five different birds.

With that many kinds of birds, comes different feeding habits and food needs.  It might be good to put up different styles of feeders to be most helpful:

• Hopper feeders: It looks like a house with Plexiglas sides on top of a platform where the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The Plexiglas makes it easy to tell when more seed needs to be added. The seed is protected against the weather but not so well against squirrels.
• Tube feeders: Hollow Plexiglas cylinders with multiple feeding ports and perches. These hanging feeders attract species that typically feed off the ground. You can attach a tray to the bottom to catch scattered seeds and to allow larger species to feed.
• Tray or platform feeders: Simple flat, raised surfaces on which you spread seed. Easy to make, they are one of the most popular feeders. Birds that typically feed on the ground are particularly attracted to this type of feeder. A disadvantage of platform feeders is that they are not squirrel-proof or weather resistant. They should have drainage holes for water and need to be cleaned often to remove bird droppings. Only one day’s worth of food should be put out at a time.

Taking care of our feathered friends is an enjoyable way to mark the time as winter progresses. Winter feeding isn’t just for the birds. For more information on this please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County and request a free copy of “Winter Bird Feeding”.  If you are interested in becoming a master gardener, we are having a new training class beginning February 24. We can be reached at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Worm Composting

When the days become shorter and there is a chill in the air, we know the growing season is ending and the yard work is slowing down. There is not as much to do in the fall and winter as there is during the other seasons. It is a good time to add to the compost pile, to turn it and tend to it. However, even that chore is less of a burden. If you are a dedicated composter, there is an alternative you can do in the winter: vermicomposting.

Vermicomposting is also known as worm composting. It is a great way to use up your clean kitchen waste and food scraps. All year long, the worms are hard at work turning waste into high quality compost. Added benefits include less trash to put on the curb and nothing in the garbage disposal.
 
While there are many kinds of worms in the soil, the best kinds for vermicomposting are the red wigglers, Eisenia fetida. They are often chosen for worm composting, because it is easy to replicate their preferred environment in a worm bin. They are also ideal, because they have short life spans, reproduce quickly and tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions.

It is very simple to start worm composting. A simple container about fifteen inches deep and a tight-fitting lid is all you need to get started. Make sure there are ventilation holes in the sides or lid to help with air circulation. The worms need bedding, so a four to six layer of shredded newspaper is a good choice. It does need to be moist, with the consistency of a wrung-out sponge, and then fluffed to create air pockets. Place the bin where the temperatures are in the forty to eighty degree range. Avoid direct sunlight as the bin will dry out fast. Under the kitchen sink is the ideal place for the compost bin; it is usually the closest to the work space.

The worms are basically vegetarians so feed them fruits and vegetables. Avoid dairy and meat products as they will spoil and create a nuisance.  Add food scraps to the new worm bin gradually at first, introducing about a half-pound of food scraps per pound of worms in the bin until they become accustomed to their new home. Burying the food under the bedding helps reduce fruit fly and odor problems. Rotating the spots where food scraps are buried will help the worms distribute throughout the bin.

You will know when it is time to start harvesting; the contents are brown and earthy looking. Plus you won’t be able to identify the original bedding material.  This process can take about two months. The compost will resemble fresh potting soil. You can then use it to amend your indoor houseplants, or to top dress your gardens when spring arrives again.

For more information on vermicompsting, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for the free factsheet “Composting with Worms”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Winter Damage

Each and every year, in the dead of winter, we have a string of warmer weather, as this past week has shown.  Then it moves to get colder again.  Slowly the days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger.  But it is still winter, and this season takes its toll on us and the landscape around us.  Extreme cold, a short thaw, and inches upon inches of snow can damage the hardiest of trees and shrubs.

The most obvious kind of damage can come from winter storms.  With the high winds, ice buildup and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs as soon as it feasible.  Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked.  It seems strange with all the snow on the ground that plants dry out. Needles and leaves on evergreens transpire all winter long.  The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days.  This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves.   Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways.  If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving.  As soon as the soil thaws, replant it.  Be careful not to damage the root system and make sure it is entirely covered.  Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive.  Also, because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack.  Sometimes this is called southwest injury.  Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury.  This type of damage is visible later in the year.  Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury.  Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent.  To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants.  Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with the plant’s ability to access essential nutrients vital to good growth.  If salt build is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring.  Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Winter Injury to Trees and Shrubs.”


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension in  Lackawanna County

Indoors It Is!

Indoors it is, as the weather is unpredictable, and the days are growing shorter faster. Do you miss the lush greens and colors of the growing season? If so, consider brightening the inside of your home with some new houseplants. A bit of color and new life can do wonders for all of us.

Houseplants can found for sale at your local greenhouse, the big box retailers, flea markets, and even friends often divide and share their own plants. There are several things to look for when shopping for a healthy plant. Inspect the leaves carefully. They should have the right color, shape, size and be free of blemishes or brown edges and lower leaves should not be pale or yellow. A good specimen should not look leggy or sparse. It should have a good, balanced shape and not be top heavy. Look closely at stems and leaves for any signs of insects or disease. Finally, look at the pot and soil. If roots are growing through the drainage holes or are seen at the soil surface, the plant has probably outgrown its pot. If you choose this plant, special care will be needed when transplanting into a larger pot. Most importantly, look for a proper label, which will give you all the necessary information to care for your new housemate.

Once you have made your selection, it is a good idea to keep a new plant away from other plants for 2-3 weeks. This will protect the other plants from possible attack by any insects or disease you might have missed. Often, they have been grown in greenhouse conditions and highly controlled environments so they may go through a period of shock. Also, plants drop some leaves or some leaves may yellow when first brought into a new environment. This adjustment period should not last more than a few weeks. During this time, keep the plant relatively cool to help minimize water loss through its leaves. Check the soil regularly to determine when to water. Also, do not fertilize at this time, since the plant is adjusting to lower light and humidity conditions.

Other factors to keep in mind for your houseplants:

• Exposure: Some plants like direct sunlight; others prefer filtered light through curtain


• Moisture: Most house plants are of tropical origin and their watering needs vary.


• Temperature: Some, like poinsettias and begonias, like warmth but spider plants and florist mums like it cooler. Avoid drafts in the winter time, so keep your plants way from exterior doors.

It is important to note that most houseplants are safe; some can cause problems or reactions. Please consider this in your selection. Children and pets should be kept away from houseplants anyway, but an unfamiliar and new item brings our curiosity. For help in selecting a houseplant, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have facts sheets for this. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a copy of “Houseplant Guide”

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Do you know where your pesticides are … ?

As you start wrapping up your garden for the season, consider this survey result: almost one half of surveyed households with children under the age of 5 had at least one pesticide stored within a child's reach. Proper pesticide storage helps prolong chemical shelf life while protecting the health of people, animals and the environment. Read the product label for specific storage information. Some basic tips for storing pesticides include:

• Store pesticides in locked cabinets.


• Always store pesticides in their original containers with their tops tightly closed.


• Never store pesticides in any food or drink container.


• Never store pesticides in cabinets near food, potable water, animal feed, medical supplies, protective clothing, seed, fertilizers or gasoline.


• Keep pesticides stored in cool dry areas to avoid temperature extremes.


• Store dry pesticides above liquid pesticides.


• Never store pesticides in application equipment.


• Keep emergency numbers handy.


• Reduce storage needs by buying only the amount and type of pesticide needed for the upcoming year.


• Read the label!

For the free fact sheet on 'What You Need to Know About Storing Pesticides' go to http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uo216.pdf or call your local extension office. In Lackawanna County, call 963-6842 and ask for the garden helpline or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees & Shrubs

Last week we discussed the various types of plant damage that can happen during the winter. After all this winter’s storms, the coming weeks would be a good time to assess ice, snow and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.

1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.

2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Winter Injury

Phil made his predication a couple weeks ago that we will have an early spring, and it seems that so far the indications are true. We have had a string of warmer weather. The days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger. As much as most of us would like this season to be over, the pattern is that this is just a tease. As tough as these long winters are on us, it is much rougher on the home landscape.

Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Landscaping for Wildlife

Many of the gifts we receive during the holiday season are to keep us warm during the harsh winter. Fleece, scarves, gloves, and flannel give us protection. Hot cocoa, soothing tea, a bountiful meal with friends and family provide comfort and sustenance. As winter grows longer, the deeper we go into our homes for shelter. The other kind of Pennsylvania residents, the wildlife among us, don’t have such things.

These animals have three options: migrate, hibernate, or stay active. Those that are active face dire circumstances. The same frigid cold, blowing winds, cold rain, snow and ice we face every day. Some of which may keep us from work, social times, and school, but our little friends face as well with little or no comfort.

Their only recourse is to find quality habitat which make the difference between perishing or surviving until spring. Some animals find protection in rock walls, brush piles, downed wood, or underground. For many though, evergreens often provide the best winter, or thermal, cover. Pines, hemlocks, spruces, and even rhododendrons protect birds and other mammals from the wind, snow and ice, as they keep their leaves and needles throughout the winter.

It is common for example to find black-capped chickadees taking refuge in conifer foliage with their heads tucked under their wings to conserve energy. Ruffled grouse, woodcocks, and wild turkey, and rabbits will seek refuge there too.

For the homeowner, there are a few things to consider not doing right now. Keep low hanging branches of evergreens, especially if they touch the ground. These are valuable places of protection. Consider keeping bunches of ornamental grasses too. They tend to stay upright and in clumps providing a good source of shelter. Don’t be in too much of a hurry to remove brush piles either. What you can do is take a few moments in the dead of winter to look for signs of life. Appreciate what you have to keep you warm and look for ways to sustain our outside friends.

The Penn State Master Gardeners have the free publication “Landscaping for Wildlife: Trees, Shrubs, and Vines” call 570-963-6842 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Dead Trees Bring Life

If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? This is a question asked for ages, and no matter the philosophical answers debated, a fallen tree may have uses no one sees. Trees have countless uses for humans. They offer shade, filter the air, and add value and beauty to the home landscape. Trees stabilize the soil and even produce food for us. When a tree is cut, it can be transformed into fuel, made into furniture, form the structure of our homes, and without trees, a newspaper could not be written, produced, or read.

Dead trees have a useful and special value, not for us but for wildlife. Dead parts of live trees, which are called 'snags', and fallen trees, referred to as 'logs' become important resources in nature. They become food and shelter for a number of species. As a tree decomposes, it recycles itself into the soil. The process enriches the soil and makes conditions favorable for the next generation of seedlings.

Logs become shelter for many layers of life. Insects, salamanders, mice and other small creatures seek refuge there. Other woodland life feed off them. Some grouse have been known to raise generations on the same logs. As the wood decays, it increases the mushroom population. During the harsh winter months, mushrooms are an important food source for birds, squirrel, and deer.

Snags, or standing dead trees, offer a nesting place for thirty-five species of birds. Wood ducks look for tree cavities near water. Barn owls look for nesting sites near large fields. Chickadees, sapsuckers, and woodpeckers make beneficial use of snags. As insects invade a dead tree, they attract turtles, shrews, salamanders, and bats among others, to sustain their life. One bat can consume thousands of mosquitoes while we slumber away.

While it may not always be feasible to keep dead trees on your property, some consideration should be given to sustaining the life we don’t see. On a smaller scale, brush piles, or even a post-season live Christmas tree set outside can create a haven for wildlife. Just because we don’t hear a sound doesn’t mean sounds are not being made.

For more information on this topic, The Penn State Master Gardeners have the publication 'Dead Wood for Wildlife'. Please contact us at 570-963-9642 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request your free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Choosing a Christmas Tree

Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you:

In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.

Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.

These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.

Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.

• Balsam Fir: soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
• Colorado Blue Spruce: stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
• Douglas Fir: widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
• Scotch Pine: one of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
• White Pine: native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
• Fraser Fir: closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.

Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Hollies Celebrate the Winter with Berries – Maybe

With our thoughts turning toward winter holiday season plants I thought it might be “wise” to share some tips about hollies from Linda S. Wiles, Extension Educator, Monroe County.

Typically we think of the Christmas time holly with evergreen, pointed leaves and red berries - Ilex aquifolium, but there are also hollies that are deciduous, have smooth leaves, and/or black berries. It is such a diverse group that even working around cold-hardiness, you can probably find one that works for your property.

Inquiries regarding holly plants not having berries are frequent in winter. This occurs because holly has either male or female flowers, but not both on the same plant. If your holly does not have berries, one of the first things to consider is that the plant may be male or that it may be a female without a nearby compatible male. Some holly cultivars bloom at different times and they need to be blooming simultaneously in order to produce berries. To ease landscape congestion and increase berried plants, you only need one male holly for several female hollies.

There are two other situations that can result in “berryless” hollies. The first is that the plant is too young to flower; the second is the result of weather problems.

For information on hollies and other trees and shrubs for Pennsylvania you can view the free publication A Guide for Selecting Shrubs for Pennsylvania Landscapes by going to the web at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uj257.pdf or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Can't Stand Ants!

Even though winter is slow in leaving NEPA, the days are warming up. You may notice some unwelcome guests in and around your kitchen. Ants, like other insects, are cold blooded; so as the temperatures rise, so does their activity.

Ants infesting homes are ‘social’ insects, meaning they live in colonies. Colonies consist of thousands of ‘workers’ and one or more ‘queens’. The queens produce all the eggs in the nest. Eggs hatch into hungry larvae, which in turn become the wingless, worker females. These are the ants we see running around in our houses. The worker ants’ job is to go collect food for the other ants. When ants find a good source of food, they ‘tell’ their sisters in the colony by leaving a chemical trail for them to follow. This is why one or two ants quickly become a swarm.

SO if you can’t stand ants, here are some hints to manage them:

• Follow the ants’ trail to see to the food source and clean it up
• Follow the ants’ trail to see and plug the entry point in your house
• Ants leave a chemical trail so other worker ants can find the food source. Wipe up their path with soap and water or vinegar and water. Without the trail the ants will be lost
• Vacuum any worker ants stranded in the house
• If a chemical is necessary, use only enclosed bait traps. Look for ones containing borax or abamectin. Please read and follow the directions; remember, they are poison. Also do not use a spray to kill the ants. Air and food contamination are very likely.

While this information deals with the small nuisance ants, there are more serious species, such as carpenter ants and even termites. They need more aggressive attention. If you can’t stand ants, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Winter-Damaged Trees

Snow and wind from recent winter storms can leave trees with broken limbs. So what do you do now? First ask yourself two questions:

Question 1. Is the tree worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it is a tree with brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. If you can see that the natural shape of the tree will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it. According to Penn State’s forest stewardship program a good way to judge whether a tree will survive storm damage is to look at the upper branches.

• If less than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a good chance of survival even though its growth may slow down while it recovers.
• If between 50 percent and 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree may survive. However, its wounds may provide entryways later for damaging insects and diseases, especially if large tops or large lower branches break, or if extensive areas of bark tear.
• If more than 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a low chance of survival.
  

Not sure if the tree is worth saving? Ask a professional (see below).

Question 2. Should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, you would be advised to seek out a professional. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.patrees.org/. This web site has lots of great tree related resources as well as a link to find a certified arborist by zip code (select “Finding an Arborist” on the left panel). Make sure the arborist carries proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County