Live Christmas Trees

With the holiday season upon us fully now, comes the traffic, the crowds, and the stress. You may be preparing to put up your Christmas tree as well. Here are some interesting and fun facts about them:

• The first decorated tree dates back to Riga, Latvia in 1510.
• The first printed reference to Christmas trees appeared in Germany 1531.
• Christmas tree lights were first mass-produced in 1890.
• The tree at Rockefeller Center in New York City is decorated with 30,000 LED lights and topped by a 550 pound crystal star.
• Ninety-eight per cent of Christmas trees are grown on farms.
• 46 million seedling Christmas trees were planted by U.S. growers.
• 25 to 30 million live trees are sold every year, compared with 11 million artificial trees.
• Sales of live trees in 2012 had a real market value of over 1 billion dollars.

One of the more interesting facts about real Christmas trees is that you can purchase a live tree and plant it outside. Your holiday memories can grow into a beautiful part of the home landscape. Select garden centers often have recently-dug or container grown trees to sell for this very purpose. Planning ahead, even with a short time before the actual holiday will ensure the healthiest tree and increase its chances of survival.

What to choose:  You should look for healthy high quality trees. This is often reflected in the price. Considering this will be a feature of your yard, this is not the time to shop for a bargain. Avoid “leftovers.” A tree with dry or hard soil is indication of lack of care. Branches should be pliable, with no brown or off-color needles and minimal needle drop. Douglas and balsam firs are very common but are not native to our region. White and Scotch pines, along with Blue and white spruce are the top choices. Remember, this will be a permanent part of your yard so consider its future growth habit. Tress grow up and out. Make sure you have adequate space.

When to buy: Trees are dug before the ground freezes so visit your garden center soon if you are getting a bagged and balled type. A good choice is a container grown tree. But be careful where you store it. Bringing it in too soon will cause it to dry out quickly and make it harder to survive being in the cold again after the holidays.

How to care for it: Water the tree as soon as you have it home. Keep the soil consistently moist until it is planted outside. Keep it in an area that is cool as possible. Put off bringing it into it’s display room until a few days before Christmas. Heat increases the chances the tree will not survive. Move just as quickly to its storage location prior to planting. A very cold porch or unheated garage are some of the options for intermediate storage. Pre-digging the hole for final planting makes the last step easier. It should be at least three times as big as the root ball. While this is probably the hardest part of the process, site preparation is the most important. If you feel you don’t have time do this, or the weather is too severe to work outside, consider a temporary cold storage location.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free factsheet “How to Choose a Live Christmas Tree” to give you more information on this topic. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension – Lackawanna County

Worm Composting

When the days become shorter and there is a chill in the air, we know the growing season is ending and the yard work is slowing down. There is not as much to do in the fall and winter as there is during the other seasons. It is a good time to add to the compost pile, to turn it and tend to it. However, even that chore is less of a burden. If you are a dedicated composter, there is an alternative you can do in the winter: vermicomposting.

Vermicomposting is also known as worm composting. It is a great way to use up your clean kitchen waste and food scraps. All year long, the worms are hard at work turning waste into high quality compost. Added benefits include less trash to put on the curb and nothing in the garbage disposal.
 
While there are many kinds of worms in the soil, the best kinds for vermicomposting are the red wigglers, Eisenia fetida. They are often chosen for worm composting, because it is easy to replicate their preferred environment in a worm bin. They are also ideal, because they have short life spans, reproduce quickly and tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions.

It is very simple to start worm composting. A simple container about fifteen inches deep and a tight-fitting lid is all you need to get started. Make sure there are ventilation holes in the sides or lid to help with air circulation. The worms need bedding, so a four to six layer of shredded newspaper is a good choice. It does need to be moist, with the consistency of a wrung-out sponge, and then fluffed to create air pockets. Place the bin where the temperatures are in the forty to eighty degree range. Avoid direct sunlight as the bin will dry out fast. Under the kitchen sink is the ideal place for the compost bin; it is usually the closest to the work space.

The worms are basically vegetarians so feed them fruits and vegetables. Avoid dairy and meat products as they will spoil and create a nuisance.  Add food scraps to the new worm bin gradually at first, introducing about a half-pound of food scraps per pound of worms in the bin until they become accustomed to their new home. Burying the food under the bedding helps reduce fruit fly and odor problems. Rotating the spots where food scraps are buried will help the worms distribute throughout the bin.

You will know when it is time to start harvesting; the contents are brown and earthy looking. Plus you won’t be able to identify the original bedding material.  This process can take about two months. The compost will resemble fresh potting soil. You can then use it to amend your indoor houseplants, or to top dress your gardens when spring arrives again.

For more information on vermicompsting, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for the free factsheet “Composting with Worms”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Harvesting Apples

Did you know apples are grown in all fifty states?  Did you know the pilgrims planted the first apple trees in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the crabapple is the only apple native to North America?  Did you know apples were exported from America as early as 1768?  Did you know Pennsylvania produces only four per cent of those grown, Washington State is tops, with fifty-eight per cent?  Did you know the yearly, per capita apple consumption is twenty one pounds, compared with Europeans at forty-six?  Did you know apple picking season is under way?  Whether you are a backyard orchardist or will make a fun journey to pick your own, here is some information to help you pick quality apples.

In our region, some varieties, like the Yellow Transparent, ripen early, usually mid-July.  For the most part, the best selection starts around Labor Day through October.  It is important to know when a particular apple is generally ready to pick.  Most nursery catalogs and Extension guides can give you an idea, but yearly variations in weather, temperature, and sunlight make dates an estimate.  Mature fruit is different than ripe fruit.  Maturity means that the apple is finished developing.  Ripe means it is at its peak for flavor and texture.  We have all mistakenly bitten into a beautiful looking apple only to find it is green, hard, and sour.  For those who want to hold apples in storage, mature, but not fully ripe fruit is goal.  They will maintain their taste and texture better.  For eating, cooking, and baking, ripe fruit is best.  It is far from an exact science, but here are some tips to help guide your harvest:

Know the kind of apple.  Macintosh are ready earlier than a Red Delicious.  So be aware of the general harvest times.  Each variety of apple has specific characteristics, size, skin color, texture and taste.

Look at the skin color.  Immature apples are green.  If a specific apple by nature is mostly red, and still green, you know they aren’t ready.  Look at the ground color, which is the indented area by the stem.  The lighter yellow-green color, the chances are the apple is mature.  This does not work on all red apples.  Generally, and more so on later varieties, the seed coat will change to a dark brown.  Firm, but not hard flesh is another indicator of readiness.  There is a subjective test of taste.  When an apple is ready, there will be a pronounced fullness in flavor and sweetness.

Once an apple is ready, it still has to be picked and stored.  Most of all though, it has to be enjoyed.  For more information on picking and storing, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publication packet “Harvesting Apples.”  Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County

Skunks!

There is no other creature like it. It strikes fear and terror in your mind. Rarely, but memorably, may have crossed paths with one. There are two easy ways to know if the dreaded Mephitis mephitis, is in your neighborhood one, its plain but distinct black body and white stripes.  The odor permeates everything, and its powerful enough to wake you up.

The striped skunk can occupy your yard, and you may not even know it until it is too late. They live in dens that may be found in vacant buildings, under house porches, culverts, brush piles, tree stumps, or woodchuck burrows. Generally, they are nocturnal so they are not often seen during the day. The exception is during mating season. The males tend to move slowly, and stubborn to flee do to their strong defensive scent. If you come across a skunk, the animal will usually stick his tail straight, up and stomp his front feet as a warning before spraying.  They can spray ten to twenty feet so back away slowly and quietly.

Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if this is evident and excessive.

Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.

Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live, as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.

Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert.  For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842  or email LackawannMG@psu.edu and request a free publication “Striped Skunks.”

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension - Lackawanna County

Bedbugs!

Reservations are made, the suitcases are packed, and so is the car. Anticipation fills the mind with thoughts of rest, relaxation, and soon-to-be made memories. Whether you are travelling far or only a tankful of gas away, you will finally enjoy the summer vacation. It seems it is over too fast. You will bring back a beach full of sand in your bathing suits, sunburns, souvenir t- shirts, and some photographs.

With the increase of travel comes the potential of another unwanted souvenir: bedbugs. They are successful hitchhikers, finding their way around in clothing, bedding, luggage, and boxes. You or your visitors can bring them into your home without knowing it.

First, if you suspect bedbugs, make certain that is what you have. There are other biting insects, and many pantry pests are confused with bedbugs. The Penn State master gardeners can help identify a possible bedbug, or there are many helpful tools on the internet. Proper identification of the pest problem is the first and only way to a solution.

If you travel this holiday season here are a few tips:
* Use luggage racks to unpack and pack, instead of placing your luggage directly on the floor.
* Check the headboard and mattresses before sleeping.
* When you are home, unpack directly into the washing machine and inspect your luggage.

If you suspect infestation in your home:
* Wash and heat-dry all bedding and clothes lying on the floor. It is better to use a plastic bag, and only once, for this laundry to prevent bedbugs from moving through the home.
* A cluttered home provides more places for bed bugs to hide and makes locating and treating them harder. If bed bugs are in your mattress, using special bed bug covers (encasements) on your mattress and box springs makes it harder for bed bugs to get to you while you sleep. Leave the encasements on for a year. Be sure to buy a product that has been tested for bed bugs and is strong enough to last for the full year without tearing.
* Don’t pass them along to others. If you throw out a mattress or furniture that has bed bugs in it, you should slash or in some way destroy it so that no one else takes it and gets bed bugs.
* Thorough vacuuming can get rid of some of your bed bugs. Carefully vacuum rugs, floors, upholstered furniture, bed frames, under beds, around bed legs, and all cracks and crevices around the room. Change the bag after each use so the bed bugs can’t escape. Place the used bag in a tightly sealed plastic bag and in an outside garbage bin.

The EPA has a helpful website with information on homeowner pest-management tools. Included on this site, http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/bedbugs/index.html,  are certain pesticides you can apply yourself. These have been tested by the agency and shown to be effective, when used according to the labeled directions. If you decide to call a professional, make sure they are licensed to apply pesticides for bedbugs. The applicator should do a thorough inspection of your home and give you a comprehensive plan to control bedbugs.  Be certain to ask for the active ingredient in the products in case of adverse reactions, especially on children, and if it is registered for use on bedbugs.  Also, inquire about precautions for pets too.

For more information on bedbugs, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have an information packet on them. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension 
Lackawanna County

Viburnum

Are you looking to add a versatile and adaptable shrub to your landscape?  Viburnums are one of the largest and most versatile groups of ornamental shrubs.  They offer fragrant and showy flowers, colorful and wildlife-friendly fruit, and have architecturally appealing habits and textures that can improve any home landscape.

You can choose a deciduous type with outstanding fall color, or an evergreen which will provide distinct winter interest. Others still give early spring color.  Easily maintained, adaptable to sun or shade, viburnums are a must for the Pennsylvania landscape.  There are over thirty different kinds of viburnum that are well suited for our USDA hardiness zone.

As good of a choice as the viburnum is for your home, they are also a popular choice for the Pyrrhalta viburni, known as the viburnum leaf beetle.  They are a serious threat to the viburnum.  The most obvious sign of trouble is the leaves become skeletonized, or look like Swiss cheese. Unfortunately, the damage usually begins much earlier and less-noticeable.

From late June to early July until October, females chew tiny holes in small branches or twigs of viburnum, generally the current year's growth, but occasionally in the previous year's growth, in preparation of her laying eggs.

These eggs overwinter imbedded in the shrub.  By early to mid-May of the following spring, the eggs hatch and the larvae feed on the underside of tender, expanding foliage.   Around mid-June, mature larvae crawl to the ground, enter the soil, and pupate.  By early July, adults emerge and begin to feed on viburnum foliage.  From hatching to adulthood takes about eight to ten weeks. Damage is unrelenting and severe.

If you are looking to add a viburnum to your yard, look for the resistant kinds:

　
· V. bodnantense, dawn viburnum
· V. carlesii, Koreanspice viburnum
· V. davidii, David viburnum
· V. x juddii, Judd viburnum
· V. plicatum, doublefile viburnum
· V. plicatum var. tomentosum, doublefile viburnum
· V. rhytidophyllum, leatherleaf viburnum
· V. setigerum, tea viburnum
· V. sieboldii, Siebold viburnum
　
If you already have an established viburnum, in late winter or early spring, carefully examine young twigs for egg sites that seem to swell and lose their covers as the air temperature increases.  Prune out and destroy infested twigs before the eggs hatch.  Monitor the lower leaf surface for the presence of larvae in late spring.

Apply an insecticide labeled for use on the viburnum leaf beetle and according to label directions in the spring to manage larvae while they feed.  It's best to apply these materials when larvae are small.  When targeting adults, they may fly away or drop to the ground when disturbed by your effort to effectively treat infested plants.

For more information on choosing and care of viburnum, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication "Viburnum for the Pennsylvania Landscape."  Contact us at 570-963- 6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County

What's In A Name?

The name geranium brings to mind several things: the stalwart red blooms we see everywhere from memorial plants marking a loved-ones grave to mass borders in a home landscape to a small container on a porch.  They come in different colors, scents, and sizes.  Nothing beats the versatility or stamina of the geranium.

Except for one matter: the plants we call geraniums are really pelargonium.  True geraniums look entirely different and are fairly uncommon in our area, but are usually called hardy geraniums.  “Pelargomium” come from the Greek word geranos, meaning crane, as the seed head looks like a crane bill.  The common geranium we use in our landscape can be found in various forms:

• SEED GERANIUMS - These are generally smaller plants than cutting geraniums, with small but more numerous flowers and a more self-branching growth habit.  They are often labeled as seed geraniums, and sold in small pots or packs. 
• ZONAL GERANIUMS - They are named this way because they have a dark ring midway on the leaf.  They tend to have bigger blooms ranging in size from three to six inches, and in all sorts of colors.  They tend to grow upright so are best suited for beddings and pots.  These can take the most sun and are drought tolerant.
• IVY-LEAVED - These are best for hanging baskets and window boxes, as they have a trailing habit.  They have a growth habit less upright than the other kinds of geraniums, and the leaves resemble the English ivy plant. Another distinction is they do better in part shade during the extreme heat of the summer.
• REGAL - Sometimes called Martha Washington, they come in pastel shades and the leaves have more serrated ends in comparison to the rounded ones of the other varieties.  They make excellent indoor plants in a sunny window, but usually do not perform well in the extreme heat of summer.
• SCENTED - These are specialty geraniums.  They are grown for their foliage more than the flowers. They come in lemon, peppermint, citronella, and even chocolate, among others.  Expect to pay a premium for these. 

Geraniums are among the easiest landscape plants to have.  They do best in well-drained soil and full sun.  Generally a 10-10-10 fertilizer is all that is required to promote continued blooming throughout the season.  Deadheading is important to the health of the plant as well as encouraging new blossoms.  Remove any yellow leaves or spent flowers and throw them away.  A mold called botrytis is spread through poor sanitation of your plants.  Not many insects bother the geranium, but whiteflies, aphids, and mealy bugs can attack them.  These pests can be managed easily with insecticides found at your local garden center. 

Besides the versatility and variety the geraniums offer, they also can be over-wintered for those who want a project for the off season.  Not many summer annuals can make the transition but some geraniums will.  But who really wants to think about winter when the growing season is just beginning?  For more information on growing geraniums, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a copy of “Geraniums.”

Steve Ward

Master Gardener Coordinator

Penn State  Extension  Lackawanna County

Hemlock

Are any of you history buffs? Even if you are not, you have a physical connection to the past via the newspaper. On June 22, 1931, the Pennsylvania Legislature adopted the eastern hemlock as our state tree:

"Whereas, The hemlock (Tsuga Canadensis Linnaeus) is still today, as it was of old, the tree most typical of the forests of Pennsylvania; and 

Whereas, The hemlock yielded to our pioneers the wood from which they wrought their cabin homes; and

Whereas, The hemlock gave its bark to found a mighty industry;  and

Whereas, The hemlock everywhere lends kindly shelter and sure haven to the wild things of forests; and

Whereas, The lighted hemlock at Christmas time dazzles the bright eyes of the child with an unguessed hope, and bears to the aged, in its leaves of evergreen, a sign and symbol of faith in immortality."

The eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis), is not exclusive to our state, and it is also called Canada hemlock or hemlock spruce. It is a slow growing tree, and lives quite well in shady areas, unlike other trees. It can take 200 - 300 years for a hemlock to reach its maturity. The record height is 175 feet tall and seventy-six inches in diameter. This hemlock was used in the past in construction, and the tannin found in the bark was used to die leather goods. Today, the eastern hemlock is primarily a landscape tree. However, its main industrial use is for wood pulp, especially for newsprint. So thanks to the eastern hemlock, you can have your Sunday paper.

Just before the eastern hemlock was adopted as a state tree, the hemlock woolly adelgid (HWA) was introduced accidently in this country in the late 1920’s. Some thirty years later the HWA was seen in the East. It is a serious threat to our state symbol. Not being a native insect, it has few predators to keep the population in check. This insect can kill a tree in as little as four years.

The easiest way to tell if your eastern hemlock has HWA is to look at the branches. If you notice small white clumps, it may be HWA. Other symptoms include the needles that turn greyish green then drop off, and limb die back from the bottom up. Once the tree is weakened from HWA, it is vulnerable to other pests and diseases.

To help reduce the spread of HWA, do not place bird feeders in hemlocks as they will use the bird to hitchhike to other eastern hemlocks. If you have an infected tree, do not fertilize it. Research has shown nitrogen fertilizers enhance the insect and doubles its reproductive rate.

The homeowner can attempt to manage the pest. The newly hatched nymphs are unprotected and exposed. Once the HWA is under those white cottony-masses, it is difficult to treat. So with timed applications of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, the eastern hemlock can be treated. A licensed commercial applicator can use stronger pesticides to manage the insect. It is important to remember that treatment is lifelong for the tree. Continued applications must be applied. 

For more information on the hemlock woolly adelgid, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu  We have a free factsheet on this insect.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State e Extension
 Lackawanna County

Pansies

The calendar does actually say winter is officially over. But, as experience has shown us, the weather is very unpredictable. Some areas just this week had snow, rain, and sun all in one day. Mother nature pays no attention to what month it is. The home landscape this time of year is in need of cheering up. There are better and brighter days ahead even though things look dirty and old. It would be nice to see some color around the yard.

Right now, at your local garden center, you can have your choice of a host of colors, as greenhouses are full of pansies. Few other flowers give you the wide variety of colors and excellent weather tolerance than pansies do.

Throughout the world, there are almost 500 species of pansies with three different patterns:
The single color, or often referred to as “clear” type; single color with black radiating from the center; and “face” type - these have dark centers. You will also find single, semi double, and full double blooms. Most often you find a mix of all these kinds in packs or trays.

Johnny Jump-ups are closely related to pansies. They have much smaller blooms, come in fewer colors, and can tolerate warmer temperatures. As a result, they will bloom longer in the season than regular pansies.

Pansies can be planted outside as soon as the soil can be worked and loosened. They usually can handle a frost, and once established, can survive a freeze. Considered biennials, you may see them again, as they will re-seed themselves to complete their life cycle. Pansies prefer part sun to shade locations. This will also keep them blooming longer than in direct sun. Continually dead-heading or removing spent blooms will encourage new flowers to form. Pansies perform well in containers and baskets. They are an easy choice for a deck or porch if do not want to toil in the soil so early in the season. Another advantage to pansies is they are very disease resistant so you can have a healthy looking yard when everything else is still dormant.

An additional benefit of pansies is a fun activity: collect and press the blooms. You can make it an easy family adventure. Starting at your local greenhouse, pick the color combination everyone likes, take them home and plant them. Once they are in full bloom, you pick them and preserve them through pressing.

For more information on pansies, and pressing them, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu, and request the “Pansy: Home Grown Facts” publication.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
 Lackawanna County

Clover

This Sunday was the day to “go green”! Being St. Patrick’s Day, whether you are of Irish decent or not, most people celebrate by wearing or displaying something green. In gardening, “going green” is often understood as using environmentally sound practices. It is worth considering, in light of it being March 17th, to blend the two meanings. Probably the most recognizable symbol of Ireland is the clover leaf. While it is rare to find a four leaf clover, the plant itself used to be a mainstay in the home lawn. Now, unfortunately, it is viewed as a weed.

White clover, also known as Dutch clover, has many benefits, and if you are trying to go green in your own landscape, it may be worthwhile adding it. Clover is lush, has a rich green hue, and has a low and dense growth habit. White clover makes even more sense in a home landscape, if you have large areas to mow, as it is a low maintenance ground cover. As water becomes a more precious resource, white clover is a good choice, because it can withstand a drought.

Some additional benefits to white clover are:

• Grows four to eight inches high.
• Tolerates low mowing.
• Spreads to fill empty spaces, and looks best when blended with other grasses.
• Tolerates dog urine better than grasses.
• Great source of nitrogen for your lawn, cutting down on the need to fertilize.

White cover does have disadvantages though. It can be hard to find. Some garden centers sell forage types, like red clover. It does not hold up well to a lot of foot traffic, and the stains on clothing are difficult to remove. Depending on your particular circumstance, clover attracts honey and bumble bees, which can be a plus or a minus. If you want to promote native pollinators, white clover is an excellent feed source for them. It may be a concern if you are allergic to stings.

If you do choose to add white clover to your home lawn, remember not to use any kind of broad leaf herbicide. White clover is killed by these products. For more information on this or any other topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension  Lackawanna County

Brown Marmorated Stinkbug

Gradually, the winter season is coming to a close. The weather pattern is still unpredictable; cycles of warm and cold will taunt us for a while longer. The days have become longer, and the sun is stronger warming things in its path, even though it can still get quite chilly. One unforeseen consequence of this solar heating is it causes some insects to start coming out of hibernation, especially the brown marmorated stinkbug, or BMSB. You may have been alarmed by the site of this triangular-shield shaped bug crawling around your home.

Accidently introduced in the late 1990’s the BMSB is originally from Asia. It has become a nuisance pest because it has no natural enemies in the states, and it has a very wide variety of host plants on which it can live. A homeowner often can see large gatherings of them around the landscape, especially in the fall. More than likely then, they are looking for a place to hibernate. Stink bugs have the unique ability to give off a scent, alerting other BMSB’s that there is a suitable site for the winter. So, you will see large groups of them before the cold sets in. You may notice them on occasion in your home as their slumber is coming to an end. It is important to know, though, there is no cause for alarm, if you see them.

Unlike carpenter ants or termites, the BMSB, does not do any structural damage to the home. They do not sting or bite either. The only defense they have is their offensive odor. In addition,, the stink bug does not reproduce indoors, nor does it eat this time of year. Basically, your home is a rest stop for this pest. In the fall they often enter through holes in screens, exhaust fans, and especially window air conditioners. It is important to check those areas to prevent an infestation.

This time of year, controlling the BMSB is on the mind of anyone who has seen this pest in their home. The use of pesticides indoors is not effective in controlling stink bugs. The use of aerosol-type foggers, "bug bombs," or other insecticides may kill stink bugs but will not prevent more from entering a structure. These materials are also not labeled for this purpose and therefore not legally allowed. Their use may also create a hazard to people using the structure. Plus, leaving large numbers of dead BMSB’s  in hard to reach places like attics may attract other pests such as carpet beetles and mice. Manually ridding your home of these bugs is the best way to manage them. You can use a shop vac to gather them, but that may cause your vacuum to smell like the stink bug for a while.

Stink bugs are nothing more than a unwelcome guest in your home this time of year. Using more than manual control on them will do much more damage than good.  For more information on the BMSB, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu. We can send you a free publication on the stink bug.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State e Extension
   Lackawanna County

Winter: A Great Time to Examine Your Trees and Prune Them

Even though the temperature is below freezing and our landscapes look stark and lifeless, it is the perfect time to walk your property and evaluate your trees branch structure while the leaves are off the tree and not blocking your view to the interior of the canopy.  When examining the leafless canopy, look for broken, damaged and dead branches, decay cavities, rubbing and crossing branches, and weakly attached branches with included bark that form a “V” type union.  It might seem difficult at first, but soon you will begin to see branches that don’t have buds or the bark is sloughing off, which are pretty good signs that the branch is dead.  Following some of the recent storms, including hurricane Sandy, there might be broken branches that are still hanging in the tree that should be removed before they fall out and cause damage.  Look for splits or cracks in branches and cavities in the trunk or large branches.

Co-dominant stems are formed when two branches that are about the same diameter come together to form a tight V shaped union.  Over time these two stems will get larger in diameter, applying pressure to each other until one stem breaks out, usually in a storm or high wind event.  These tight V unions are not as strong as smaller branches that are attached with something called a branch collar.  These branches tend to be growing at a 45 degree angle to the trunk and are tightly held in place by branch collars, formed by trunk wood.  It is best to remove one of the co-dominant stems when the tree is young or the branch is small.  

Once you evaluated your trees in the winter, you might decide they need to be pruned, either by a professional arborist or yourself, as long as you can do that safely (never climb a tree unless you have been trained to do this work and are using ropes and safety equipment).  Winter is a good time to prune because we can see branch structure, insects and diseases are not present, and the tree will devote some of its stored energy into closing the pruning wounds in the spring as it begins to grow.  Some worry about species that “bleed” when pruned in the winter, but it is only sap flowing from species such as maple, birch, beech and elm and it does not harm the tree.
 
Winter is also a good time to have an arborist evaluate and prune your trees because it is their slower season.  Who knows, you might even get a better price during the winter months.  Just make sure you find someone who is knowledgeable, like an ISA Certified Arborist, and will not “top”, “over thin”, or damage your tree.   For more information about tree pruning and tree care, visit www.patrees.org


Vincent Cotrone
Penn State Extension Urban Forester
& ISA Certified Arborist

Groundhog's Day

By the time you read this, Phil will have made his prediction. For all our sake, we hope it is for an early spring.  In the midst of winter, Groundhog’s day is a fun diversion and reminds us spring is on the way sooner or later. Some 40,000 make the trek to Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania to witness this yearly event dating back to the 1800’s. Punxsutawney Phil has met Oprah Winfrey, President Reagan, Governors Thornburg and Rendell, and in 2001, his prediction was broadcast live to New York City’s Times Square. Fun as Phil is, groundhog’s day is folklore.

Here are some facts about the groundhog, and how to manage the furry creature once he makes an appearance in your yard.

Marmota monax, the groundhog, also known as the woodchuck, is a chunky creature weighing up to 10 lbs. Its length ranges sixteen to twenty inches plus the tail, four to seven inches. While open farm land is their first choice, the groundhog has made a comfortable home in the suburban landscape where plenty of food and shelter make life easy for them. Often a groundhog will construct its burrow along stone walls, at the base of trees, and even along a foundation.

Groundhog burrows can be identified by the large mound of excavated earth at the main entrance. On this mound, which is constantly renewed by debris from within, the groundhog frequently sits to look for danger. The entranceway is 10 to 12 inches in diameter, and they also have secondary entrances. These tend to be hidden and dug from below so mounds are not seen.

The groundhog can be the bane of most homeowners. The animal’s feeding and burrowing habits conflict with human interests. Damage often occurs on farms, in home gardens, orchards, nurseries, and around buildings.  Damage to crops such as alfalfa, soybeans, beans, squash, tomatoes, and peas can be costly and extensive. A homeowner may lose his or her entire tomato patch. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs may be damaged by a groundhog as they gnaw on woody vegetation. Mounds of earth from the excavated burrow systems and holes formed at burrow entrances present a hazard to farm equipment, animals, and humans. On occasion, burrowing can weaken building foundations.

In Pennsylvania, groundhogs are classified as game animals. Game protection is removed when they damage personal property. In that case, groundhogs can be controlled by the property owner using the lawful means. If a homeowner does not feel comfortable with any means of control, there are many wildlife pest control companies who can do this for you.

If the area is small, poultry wire or two inch woven mesh fencing can be installed. With three foot minimum above ground, the fence should have twelve inches buried in the ground, with six inches bent in an L shape pointing away.
Scarecrows can provide temporary relief from groundhog damage. Move them regularly and incorporate a high level of human activity in the susceptible area.

There are no repellents or toxicants that are for use on groundhogs. There are other products such as fumigants and gas cartridges available at home and garden centers which are labeled for use on groundhogs. Please carefully follow the directions as these are dangerous products.

There are live traps the homeowners can use as well. Place the trap near fresh damage or at the main entrance of the burrow. Use fresh bait such as apple slices, carrots, and lettuce. Be careful once the animal is trapped. Give some thought to a relocation area at least ten miles away and where the groundhog will not be the pest he was to you.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County  have a free publication on groundhogs, contact us at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County

Winter Damage

Each and every year, in the dead of winter, we have a string of warmer weather, as this past week has shown.  Then it moves to get colder again.  Slowly the days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger.  But it is still winter, and this season takes its toll on us and the landscape around us.  Extreme cold, a short thaw, and inches upon inches of snow can damage the hardiest of trees and shrubs.

The most obvious kind of damage can come from winter storms.  With the high winds, ice buildup and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs as soon as it feasible.  Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked.  It seems strange with all the snow on the ground that plants dry out. Needles and leaves on evergreens transpire all winter long.  The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days.  This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves.   Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways.  If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving.  As soon as the soil thaws, replant it.  Be careful not to damage the root system and make sure it is entirely covered.  Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive.  Also, because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack.  Sometimes this is called southwest injury.  Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury.  This type of damage is visible later in the year.  Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury.  Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent.  To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants.  Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with the plant’s ability to access essential nutrients vital to good growth.  If salt build is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring.  Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Winter Injury to Trees and Shrubs.”


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension in  Lackawanna County

Bedbugs!

The holiday season brings with it a series of challenges: finding the right tree, fixing the one bulb in the string of lights, the crowded malls, highways choked with travelers… Whether you visit friends and family, or entertain sojourners in your home, it seems like we always wind up with unexpected guests.

With the increase of travel comes the potential of another unwanted guest: bedbugs. They are successful hitchhikers, finding their way around in clothing, bedding, luggage, and boxes. You or your visitors can bring them into your home without knowing it.

First, if you suspect bedbugs, make certain that is what you have. There are other biting insects, and many pantry pests are confused with bedbugs. The Penn State master gardeners can help identify a possible bedbug, or there are many helpful tools on the internet. Proper identification of the pest problem is the first and only way to a solution.

If you travel this holiday season here are a few tips:
--Use luggage racks to unpack and pack, instead of placing your luggage directly on the floor.
--Check the headboard and mattresses before sleeping.
--When you are home, unpack directly into the washing machine and inspect your luggage.

If you suspect infestation in your home:
--Wash and heat-dry all bedding and clothes lying on the floor. It is better to use a plastic bag, and only once, for this laundry to prevent bedbugs from moving through the home.
--A cluttered home provides more places for bed bugs to hide and makes locating and treating them harder. If bed bugs are in your mattress, using special bed bug covers (encasements) on your mattress and box springs makes it harder for bed bugs to get to you while you sleep. Leave the encasements on for a year. Be sure to buy a product that has been tested for bed bugs and is strong enough to last for the full year without tearing.
--Don’t pass them along to others. If you throw out a mattress or furniture that has bed bugs in it, you should slash or in some way destroy it so that no one else takes it and gets bed bugs.
--Thorough vacuuming can get rid of some of your bed bugs. Carefully vacuum rugs, floors, upholstered furniture, bed frames, under beds, around bed legs, and all cracks and crevices around the room. Change the bag after each use so the bed bugs can’t escape. Place the used bag in a tightly sealed plastic bag and in an outside garbage bin.

The EPA has a helpful website with information on homeowner pest-management tools. Included on this site, http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/bedbugs/index.html,  are certain pesticides you can apply yourself. These have been tested by the agency and shown to be effective, when used according to the labeled directions. If you decide to call a professional, make sure they are licensed to apply pesticides for bedbugs. The applicator should do a thorough inspection of your home and give you a comprehensive plan to control bedbugs.  Be certain to ask for the active ingredient in the products in case of adverse reactions, especially on children, and if it is registered for use on bedbugs.  Also, inquire about precautions for pets too.

For more information on bedbugs, the Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have an information packet on them. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County