Whether you received them as gifts or use them as decorations, your holiday plants, with proper care, can bring pleasure for weeks or even months after the holiday season ends.
The newer poinsettia varieties retain their leaves and bracts remarkably well and may stay in good shape for several months. Keep a uniform room temperature for poinsettias between 60 and 68 degrees. Put your plant near a bright window, out of direct sunlight, and remove it if there is danger of chilling.
Try to maintain the soil moisture at moderate and uniform levels. Never let the pot stand in water for any extended period of time. If the plant came wrapped in foil or other water-tight material, be sure to punch holes in the bottom or remove the wrap entirely, so water won’t be trapped inside.
While the poinsettia remains the choice of holiday plants, the Christmas cactus is popular too. Most blooming plants will keep better in cooler temperatures and in a well-lit location away from sources of hot air. Watering seems to be the source of most problems with the Christmas cactus. Water thoroughly when the top half of the soil in the pot feels dry to the touch. Discard the excess; do not water again until the top half becomes dry.
Well-drained soil is a must for Christmas cactus. Use a commercially packaged potting mix for succulent plants. Pruning your Christmas cactus after blooming will encourage the plant to branch out. Remove a few sections of each stem by pinching them off with a knife.
Consider adding a splash of the tropics among your usual and seasonal decorations this year by purchasing an amaryllis. They come in shades of red, pink, white, and stripes. They can be found in bloom this time of year or as a bulb ready to start.
It is important to keep the soil moist, but not soggy, otherwise the bulb will rot. Place in a warm area, but not direct afternoon sun. Remember to rotate the plant regularly so it will grow straight. Depending on the variety, they can grow up to three feet tall and may need staking.
Remove the flowers after they have withered where it exits the stalk. Do not remove the foliage as this feeds the bulb for the next year’s growth. New leaves will continue to appear and you can care for this as any other house plant. In June the amaryllis can be moved outdoors in its container. Continue watering, and twice a month use houseplant fertilizer. Other than these few steps amaryllis need little fussing.
The “Holiday Plant Guide” will help you care for your plants. Contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a free copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, December 29, 2014
Sunday, December 7, 2014
Christmas Tree Guide
Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you: In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.
Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.
These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.
Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.
Balsam Fir:
Soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
Colorado Blue Spruce:
stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
Douglas Fir:
Widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
Scotch Pine:
One of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
White Pine:
Native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
Fraser Fir:
Closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.
Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.
These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.
Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.
Balsam Fir:
Soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
Colorado Blue Spruce:
stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
Douglas Fir:
Widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
Scotch Pine:
One of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
White Pine:
Native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
Fraser Fir:
Closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.
Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Sunday, November 23, 2014
Winter Plant Care
It’s cold. We all know. The frost on the windows tells us. The thermostat and high heating bills give us regular reminders winter is upon us. From now until spring, the weathermen broadcast the same message: it’s cold.
The plants in the home landscape know it’s cold too. As bad as it is for us, we aren't stuck in the ground to tough it out until May. While most of the material around the home is accustomed to the USDA hardiness zone, some plants may need help in order to survive.
Winter plant care can help buffer the extremes in temperature, wind, and precipitation. The idea of protecting your plants isn’t to keep them warm, but rather to preserve their dormancy. If plants are too warm, they may break bud, and start new growth. The tender new shoots are very susceptible to freeze damage and will die back. Strong windy conditions can cause desiccation, where the plant suffers water loss that it cannot make up. The plant dries, and leaves are scorched. If the condition is severe, the leaves will turn brown and fall off.
Winter protection involves:
Mulching: Timing is critical for mulching around the home landscape. It is better to wait until the temperatures are consistently below freezing. A few inches of straw or wood chips are a good choice. Do not use grass clippings which have been treated with chemicals, or hay as it often has weed seeds in it. Keep the mulch away from tree trunks. Mulching too close breeds diseases and invites pests.
Pruning: Trimming for shape or production this time of year may encourage new growth, which will not be winter hardy on most landscape plants. Wait until the plant is dormant and then trim appropriately for the variety. The only exception is to remove a damaged limb to prevent further injury or disease.
Barriers: Unfortunately, you may not know your plants need protection until it is too late, the plant does not come back the next year. If you have container grown plants, they may need to be taken into an unheated space. Their roots are especially vulnerable to freezing. Windbreaks such as fencing will help buffer strong winds. Using burlap around trees and shrubs will help. Do not use plastic as this will heat up in the sun. Watch for snow loads, the extra weight will break branches.
Water: Even in the dead of winter, plants still need water to survive. Hopefully the plant has been well-tended during the growing season. This gives it the strength to endure the changes in temperatures. Some supplemental watering may be necessary. Only do this when it is warmer than forty degrees, and at midday to give enough time for the water to soak in. Do not fertilize until the spring.
Even the mildest of winters in Northeast Pennsylvania are harsh on the landscape. With a little bit of care, you can help your plants by protecting them. In return, they will reward you next year with a beautiful show. For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Protection.” Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
The plants in the home landscape know it’s cold too. As bad as it is for us, we aren't stuck in the ground to tough it out until May. While most of the material around the home is accustomed to the USDA hardiness zone, some plants may need help in order to survive.
Winter plant care can help buffer the extremes in temperature, wind, and precipitation. The idea of protecting your plants isn’t to keep them warm, but rather to preserve their dormancy. If plants are too warm, they may break bud, and start new growth. The tender new shoots are very susceptible to freeze damage and will die back. Strong windy conditions can cause desiccation, where the plant suffers water loss that it cannot make up. The plant dries, and leaves are scorched. If the condition is severe, the leaves will turn brown and fall off.
Winter protection involves:
Mulching: Timing is critical for mulching around the home landscape. It is better to wait until the temperatures are consistently below freezing. A few inches of straw or wood chips are a good choice. Do not use grass clippings which have been treated with chemicals, or hay as it often has weed seeds in it. Keep the mulch away from tree trunks. Mulching too close breeds diseases and invites pests.
Pruning: Trimming for shape or production this time of year may encourage new growth, which will not be winter hardy on most landscape plants. Wait until the plant is dormant and then trim appropriately for the variety. The only exception is to remove a damaged limb to prevent further injury or disease.
Barriers: Unfortunately, you may not know your plants need protection until it is too late, the plant does not come back the next year. If you have container grown plants, they may need to be taken into an unheated space. Their roots are especially vulnerable to freezing. Windbreaks such as fencing will help buffer strong winds. Using burlap around trees and shrubs will help. Do not use plastic as this will heat up in the sun. Watch for snow loads, the extra weight will break branches.
Water: Even in the dead of winter, plants still need water to survive. Hopefully the plant has been well-tended during the growing season. This gives it the strength to endure the changes in temperatures. Some supplemental watering may be necessary. Only do this when it is warmer than forty degrees, and at midday to give enough time for the water to soak in. Do not fertilize until the spring.
Even the mildest of winters in Northeast Pennsylvania are harsh on the landscape. With a little bit of care, you can help your plants by protecting them. In return, they will reward you next year with a beautiful show. For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Protection.” Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
Sunday, October 26, 2014
Fall Leaves
We don’t think of them much until there are a lot them: leaves. They serve as a retreat from the hot sun. The canopy of shade leaves furnish for us is welcome, and the more leaves, the more shade. This time of year, though, most homeowners are not thankful for leaves. We see them change color, blow by in the wind, and land right where we don’t want them: in our yard.
In our area, autumn greets us with a splendor of color. Interestingly, these shades are always present in the leaf, but are covered up by the green pigment, chlorophyll. The yellow pigment is called xanthophyll, and orange is carotene. Anthocyanin is red color, but depending on the kind of tree, the red seen is a result of sugar levels inside the leaves. As the daylight shortens, chlorophyll production decreases and the green fades, allowing the other colors to be more dominant. (If you want to see what colors your tree will be dressed in this fall, click on 'Fall Colors' in the 'EASY LINKS' section on the right side of your screen.) Once the photosynthesis process is over for the season, the tree sections off the leaf to conserve water and oxygen for the winter. The leaf falls off and now it’s your problem. While useless to the tree at this point, leaves can be very important in the home landscape, so don’t just discard them.
Mow over your leaves to break them down. You can let them lie there. They will decompose slowly and add nutrients to your grass. They will not smother your lawn, but will give a natural boost for next year’s growth. You can add them over your garden beds as is or till them in.
Use intact fallen leaves as mulch. Add a thick layer around the beds of shrubs, trees and perennials. Twelve plus inches of fall leaves will act as a layer of insulation for the winter and will break down, amending your soil for next year.
Compost them. You can start a compost pile now or gather the leaves and wait until the spring. To start now, shred the leaves. The smaller the pieces the faster they will break down. Add small amounts of grass clippings or healthy plant debris from your garden. If the leaves are not wet, then add water to the point that the pile is damp throughout. If you prefer, you can contain the fall leaves for the winter and use them in the spring. Inexpensive wire fencing formed in a ring should hold the leaves until you want to use them next year.
Leaves serve their purpose for tress, providing food. They add some visual appeal in autumn. Leaves at this time of year are also a lot of work, but you can make them work for you, too.
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have information on fall leaves. For a free copy, contact us at 570 – 963 - 6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for a copy of “Backyard Leaf Composting”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
In our area, autumn greets us with a splendor of color. Interestingly, these shades are always present in the leaf, but are covered up by the green pigment, chlorophyll. The yellow pigment is called xanthophyll, and orange is carotene. Anthocyanin is red color, but depending on the kind of tree, the red seen is a result of sugar levels inside the leaves. As the daylight shortens, chlorophyll production decreases and the green fades, allowing the other colors to be more dominant. (If you want to see what colors your tree will be dressed in this fall, click on 'Fall Colors' in the 'EASY LINKS' section on the right side of your screen.) Once the photosynthesis process is over for the season, the tree sections off the leaf to conserve water and oxygen for the winter. The leaf falls off and now it’s your problem. While useless to the tree at this point, leaves can be very important in the home landscape, so don’t just discard them.
Mow over your leaves to break them down. You can let them lie there. They will decompose slowly and add nutrients to your grass. They will not smother your lawn, but will give a natural boost for next year’s growth. You can add them over your garden beds as is or till them in.
Use intact fallen leaves as mulch. Add a thick layer around the beds of shrubs, trees and perennials. Twelve plus inches of fall leaves will act as a layer of insulation for the winter and will break down, amending your soil for next year.
Compost them. You can start a compost pile now or gather the leaves and wait until the spring. To start now, shred the leaves. The smaller the pieces the faster they will break down. Add small amounts of grass clippings or healthy plant debris from your garden. If the leaves are not wet, then add water to the point that the pile is damp throughout. If you prefer, you can contain the fall leaves for the winter and use them in the spring. Inexpensive wire fencing formed in a ring should hold the leaves until you want to use them next year.
Leaves serve their purpose for tress, providing food. They add some visual appeal in autumn. Leaves at this time of year are also a lot of work, but you can make them work for you, too.
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have information on fall leaves. For a free copy, contact us at 570 – 963 - 6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for a copy of “Backyard Leaf Composting”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
Sunday, October 5, 2014
The Edible Bulb: Garlic
Until the 1930’s folks in the United States snubbed garlic as being working class or too ethnic. Thankfully all that has changed. Most cooks now recognize garlic as a major seasoning. Americans consume more than 250 million pounds of garlic annually. It is used to flavor sauces, dips, spreads, pickles, breads, and more versatile in the kitchen than its close cousin the onion.
Garlic is one of the easiest bulbs to grow. It is one of the few crops which do best with a Fall planting and require about eight months to mature. From the first frost to early November is the ideal time to plant.
Choose a well-drained location with rich organic, loamy type soil. Heavy clay or stony soils will result in misshapen bulbs. It is recommended that you take a soil test to determine the pH and whether amendments are needed or not. These test kits are available for purchase at our office. Do not use a site which was used to grow onion family crops. Garlic is a poor competitor for weeds so mulch with two to four inches of straw or plant a cover crop, such as buckwheat or rye, to keep weeds down.
When selecting cloves to plant, do not use bulbs from the supermarket. Some have been treated to prevent after harvest sprouting, and are often not native and poorly suited for our climate Purchase fresh cloves from your local garden center or mail order supply company. There are three different varieties from which to choose:
If flowers develop, cut them off to encourage nutrients to go into bulb production. When stems turn brown in July it is time to carefully dig your garlic. Place the bulbs in a dry area out of the sun for a few weeks to cure. Store trimmed bulbs in mesh bags. The hardest part of growing garlic is the wait usually mid-July it is ready. Seems so far off, but just imagine the taste of fresh garlic on your table!
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free “Growing Garlic” publication for more information. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension-Lackawanna County
Garlic is one of the easiest bulbs to grow. It is one of the few crops which do best with a Fall planting and require about eight months to mature. From the first frost to early November is the ideal time to plant.
Choose a well-drained location with rich organic, loamy type soil. Heavy clay or stony soils will result in misshapen bulbs. It is recommended that you take a soil test to determine the pH and whether amendments are needed or not. These test kits are available for purchase at our office. Do not use a site which was used to grow onion family crops. Garlic is a poor competitor for weeds so mulch with two to four inches of straw or plant a cover crop, such as buckwheat or rye, to keep weeds down.
When selecting cloves to plant, do not use bulbs from the supermarket. Some have been treated to prevent after harvest sprouting, and are often not native and poorly suited for our climate Purchase fresh cloves from your local garden center or mail order supply company. There are three different varieties from which to choose:
- Softneck: This kind stays soft during harvest and is used in braiding. It tends to have larger cloves on the outside and smaller cloves inside. It has the strongest flavor and store well. Softneck are less winter hardy than stiffneck.
- Stiffneck: These have a central stem that curls as it grows. Stiffneck garlic is milder in flavor, easy to peel, and grows in a single ring around the stem. In contrast to the softneck, they are cold hardy, but do not store as well.
- Elephant: So called because they are larger bulbs with fewer and bigger cloves. It has mild flavor and is not as cold hardy as the other kinds.
If flowers develop, cut them off to encourage nutrients to go into bulb production. When stems turn brown in July it is time to carefully dig your garlic. Place the bulbs in a dry area out of the sun for a few weeks to cure. Store trimmed bulbs in mesh bags. The hardest part of growing garlic is the wait usually mid-July it is ready. Seems so far off, but just imagine the taste of fresh garlic on your table!
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free “Growing Garlic” publication for more information. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension-Lackawanna County
Sunday, August 17, 2014
Time to Harvest!
Finally, after all the hard work, timing the weather, and defending your garden from invaders, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. There are so many advantages to a home garden: you plant what you know you will like, you are confident in the manner of care because you did it yourself, and you know what was used or not used on the plants. The hobby is in full production now. In order to pick the vegetables when they are at their peak, keep in mind the following:
Bigger isn’t always better
Most vegetables attain their best eating quality when allowed to ripen on the plant, but often this peak quality is reached before the vegetable is fully mature. Many crops can be harvested several times over the growing season. Some plants, like green peppers, can be picked when they are of useable size, but red peppers should be picked when the color is uniform. Color and firmness, not size, applies to tomatoes too.
Time matters
Seed and transplant producers usually provide “days to maturity”, but this information is a guide. Several factors such as weather, soil fertility, and overall care can influence the growth cycle. Pick your vegetables in the morning, but when the plants are dry. Working in your garden when it is wet is an easy way to spread disease, such as septoria leaf spot on tomatoes. Harvesting early in the day means they are at their peak for crispness, sweetness, and juiciness, after resting and regaining their lost moisture from the previous day. Frequent picking prolongs the harvest.
Handle with care
Be gentle with garden plants while harvesting. Damaged or bruised vegetables can become decayed easily, rendering them useless. If vegetables are not easily removed when twisted or pulled, use a knife, scissors, or hand pruners. These tools help prevent tearing or breaking of a plant which could lead to disease infection. Remember to sanitize and clean your tools frequently. Be gentle with the host plant too. Most bear fruit several times in a season. Future harvest depends on the quality and health of the whole plant.
These are general tips to help in harvesting. Each particular vegetable variety has its own timetable. Some crops are early season, liking cooler weather, and others do better picked after the first frost. For more information on picking vegetables, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu, and request the free publication “Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables.”
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Bigger isn’t always better
Most vegetables attain their best eating quality when allowed to ripen on the plant, but often this peak quality is reached before the vegetable is fully mature. Many crops can be harvested several times over the growing season. Some plants, like green peppers, can be picked when they are of useable size, but red peppers should be picked when the color is uniform. Color and firmness, not size, applies to tomatoes too.
Time matters
Seed and transplant producers usually provide “days to maturity”, but this information is a guide. Several factors such as weather, soil fertility, and overall care can influence the growth cycle. Pick your vegetables in the morning, but when the plants are dry. Working in your garden when it is wet is an easy way to spread disease, such as septoria leaf spot on tomatoes. Harvesting early in the day means they are at their peak for crispness, sweetness, and juiciness, after resting and regaining their lost moisture from the previous day. Frequent picking prolongs the harvest.
Handle with care
Be gentle with garden plants while harvesting. Damaged or bruised vegetables can become decayed easily, rendering them useless. If vegetables are not easily removed when twisted or pulled, use a knife, scissors, or hand pruners. These tools help prevent tearing or breaking of a plant which could lead to disease infection. Remember to sanitize and clean your tools frequently. Be gentle with the host plant too. Most bear fruit several times in a season. Future harvest depends on the quality and health of the whole plant.
These are general tips to help in harvesting. Each particular vegetable variety has its own timetable. Some crops are early season, liking cooler weather, and others do better picked after the first frost. For more information on picking vegetables, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu, and request the free publication “Guidelines for Harvesting Vegetables.”
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, June 15, 2014
Have You Thought About Watering?
Here it is: the end of June. Most people have established their gardens, lawns, and landscapes. We can sit back and enjoy the surroundings as they green and grow. A little pruning, weeding, tending, and mowing is what is needed now. One aspect of gardening is often overlooked: watering.
Have you given much thought to the water requirements of your landscape? It is easy to overlook it, until the plants need it. By then some damage may have been done. Transplanting, during pollination, and fruit set are critical times for adequate water, poor plant health can result from neglected watering, whether it is a low cost annual, perennials, or trees.
How you water is crucial to your plant’s health. Always water early in the day. This will reduce loss through evaporation. Reduce foot traffic while watering as some diseases are spread through water transfer. It’s especially easy for a pet to brush against a vegetable plant, carry spores from one plant to another as they make their way around the yard. Avoid light watering. This will encourage deeper root development and help the plant endure drought conditions. As a general rule, one inch of water is all your landscape needs. This means the top six inches or so of the garden soil will be moist.
Water at the base of the plants. Overhead watering with a hose is a waste as much of the water is carried away through drifting. The common oscillating sprinklers can lose fifty percent of the water due to drift, and they deliver the water unevenly. Consider using a soaker hose for your garden instead. You can sit back and relax instead of standing there watching and waiting for the end of the water stream.
For small gardens and container-grown plants, a water can is fine. You can even use a clean milk jug for this. It would be a great family project to save and assemble the plastic gallon bottles and have this as a kid’s chore for the week. Fill and cap them so they are ready to use. Slow and steady is key to effective watering, so take jug out to the garden, poke some pinholes near the bottom, and remove the cap. This will evenly water the plants so you don’t have to do it.
Look into adding a layer of mulch to the various areas of the garden to conserve soil moisture. Mulching reduces the rate of evaporation from the soil surface and also limits weed competition. Organic materials, such as grass clippings, straw, and shredded leaves are excellent mulches for the vegetable garden. Wood chips, bark, and ground corncobs are good choices for perennial beds, trees and shrubs.
Water is essential to the health and productivity of your garden and landscape. Give your plants what they need and they will reward you with a full and long life.
For more information on watering during the summer, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free factsheet “ Efficient Outdoor Watering.” Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County
Have you given much thought to the water requirements of your landscape? It is easy to overlook it, until the plants need it. By then some damage may have been done. Transplanting, during pollination, and fruit set are critical times for adequate water, poor plant health can result from neglected watering, whether it is a low cost annual, perennials, or trees.
How you water is crucial to your plant’s health. Always water early in the day. This will reduce loss through evaporation. Reduce foot traffic while watering as some diseases are spread through water transfer. It’s especially easy for a pet to brush against a vegetable plant, carry spores from one plant to another as they make their way around the yard. Avoid light watering. This will encourage deeper root development and help the plant endure drought conditions. As a general rule, one inch of water is all your landscape needs. This means the top six inches or so of the garden soil will be moist.
Water at the base of the plants. Overhead watering with a hose is a waste as much of the water is carried away through drifting. The common oscillating sprinklers can lose fifty percent of the water due to drift, and they deliver the water unevenly. Consider using a soaker hose for your garden instead. You can sit back and relax instead of standing there watching and waiting for the end of the water stream.
For small gardens and container-grown plants, a water can is fine. You can even use a clean milk jug for this. It would be a great family project to save and assemble the plastic gallon bottles and have this as a kid’s chore for the week. Fill and cap them so they are ready to use. Slow and steady is key to effective watering, so take jug out to the garden, poke some pinholes near the bottom, and remove the cap. This will evenly water the plants so you don’t have to do it.
Look into adding a layer of mulch to the various areas of the garden to conserve soil moisture. Mulching reduces the rate of evaporation from the soil surface and also limits weed competition. Organic materials, such as grass clippings, straw, and shredded leaves are excellent mulches for the vegetable garden. Wood chips, bark, and ground corncobs are good choices for perennial beds, trees and shrubs.
Water is essential to the health and productivity of your garden and landscape. Give your plants what they need and they will reward you with a full and long life.
For more information on watering during the summer, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free factsheet “ Efficient Outdoor Watering.” Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County
Tuesday, May 13, 2014
Caring For Hanging Baskets
Here it is, the second Sunday in May. By a presidential proclamation in 1914, Woodrow Wilson made this day a national holiday to honor our moms. Out of respect and admiration, mothers all around the country have received many handmade or commercially produced cards and gifts. Fresh cut flowers are very popular too. If you gave or received a hanging basket today, here are some tips for making the potted plants last long.
Exposure: Your hanging basket should have a tag in it indicating whether it needs full sun, partial sun, or shade. Petunias, geraniums, and calibrachoa do well in full or afternoon light. Impatiens thrives in the morning sun. Begonias are one of the best shade tolerant annuals. For balanced growth, it is good to rotate the basket every week or so.
Watering: Hanging baskets often have many closely-spaced plants to fill out the container and their roots overtake the light potting mix. As a result, frequent watering is necessary. Check at least once a day. In the hotter months of summer watering may be necessary a couple times a day. Keep watering the basket until water runs out of the bottom. This ensures the roots have enough moisture.
Fertilizer: Because they are in a small space and do not have any additional sources of nutrients, it is recommended that hanging baskets be fertilized regularly. You can add a slow release product or the kind mixed with water. Look for a balanced 10-10-10 ratio and follow the directions carefully. Container plants are prone to fertilizer burn.
Deadheading: In order to keep your hanging basket looking fresh and clean, it is important to “deadhead” or remove spent blooms. This prevents the plant from going to seed and spurs the plant to make more flowers. While some plants are self-cleaning, it is good practice to check all baskets for good health.
For more information on caring for hanging baskets, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free publication to help you. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu . Also, if you would like to talk with us in person, we will be at Bill’s Ace Hardware, 921 Drinker Turnpike Covington TWP, PA 18444, every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. through June 7. Come visit us.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County
Exposure: Your hanging basket should have a tag in it indicating whether it needs full sun, partial sun, or shade. Petunias, geraniums, and calibrachoa do well in full or afternoon light. Impatiens thrives in the morning sun. Begonias are one of the best shade tolerant annuals. For balanced growth, it is good to rotate the basket every week or so.
Watering: Hanging baskets often have many closely-spaced plants to fill out the container and their roots overtake the light potting mix. As a result, frequent watering is necessary. Check at least once a day. In the hotter months of summer watering may be necessary a couple times a day. Keep watering the basket until water runs out of the bottom. This ensures the roots have enough moisture.
Fertilizer: Because they are in a small space and do not have any additional sources of nutrients, it is recommended that hanging baskets be fertilized regularly. You can add a slow release product or the kind mixed with water. Look for a balanced 10-10-10 ratio and follow the directions carefully. Container plants are prone to fertilizer burn.
Deadheading: In order to keep your hanging basket looking fresh and clean, it is important to “deadhead” or remove spent blooms. This prevents the plant from going to seed and spurs the plant to make more flowers. While some plants are self-cleaning, it is good practice to check all baskets for good health.
For more information on caring for hanging baskets, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free publication to help you. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu . Also, if you would like to talk with us in person, we will be at Bill’s Ace Hardware, 921 Drinker Turnpike Covington TWP, PA 18444, every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. through June 7. Come visit us.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County
Monday, April 21, 2014
Container Gardening
It’s
been cold, then warm, then cold. Intermittent rain, snow, harsh winds, what is
a gardener to do now? It is too early for most annuals and vegetables to be
planted outside. We recommend after Memorial Day to formally plant around the
home. But, we need signs of better days ahead. It would be so nice to see color
and variety for a change. You should consider container gardening.
Using
containers has been an alternative for the small scale gardeners and renters.
Anyone can use a container though, even if it is just temporary. Things like
left over Easter hyacinths, pansies, and some vegetables can be potted up and
set out. The advantage to container gardening is that it is mobile. When the
night temperatures dip too low, they can be set in a garage or enclosed porch.
Container gardening can be fun, creative, and easy.
There
are three things to keep in mind for container gardening, the plant container
itself, the plant material, and the plant location. Not one of these three is more important than
the other, but you should choose your starting point. For example, instead of throwing
out old work boots, think about reusing them, or maybe as an impulse you
brought home a pack of perky pansies, and now need to plant them so they don’t
go to waste. In your comings and goings, you see an empty, but sunny spot on
the porch just waiting to be filled.
Just
about anything that will hold dirt can be used to plant. More than anything
else though, it must provide good drainage. If it doesn’t already have a means
of letting water out, drilling or cutting holes in the container is imperative.
Keep this in mind if you are using something other than a gardening pot.
Weathered metal containers, water cans, wheel barrows, and rubber boots are
excellent choices, but need drainage holes added. Keep in mind too, that these
should be portable this time of year, to protect from frost damage. If it is
light now, once it is full of soil, water, and plants, it can become quite
cumbersome. In addition, the container should not rest flat on any surface.
Some kind of “feet” should be devised to keep water from standing under the
container. Be creative and imaginative when it comes to the plant container.
The
plant material chosen is as broad as the container choices as well. First decide
if this will remain in the container through the entire growing season, herbs
are a good choice; a temporary fix, like pansies or holiday flowers and later discarded,
or plants waiting to be transplanted to a more permanent location. Each week,
your local greenhouse has more and more from which you can choose for a
container garden.
Alyssum,
ageratum, snapdragons, and verbena will grow throughout the season in
containers. Pansies and dianthus do well in cooler temperatures, but whither
when it is hot, so they are good for now. Please select good, top quality
potting mix, or soilless soil. These are formulated for containers and have a
mix of peat, vermiculite, and pearlite usually, and some even have fertilizers
as well. Do not use regular soil found in your yard, as this is too heavy and
will not promote good growth.
Besides
the container and plants material, the plant location needs to be considered.
Look at the amount of sun it gets. Is it a high traffic area? It may become a
trip hazard, especially at night. Porches are good locations, but will rain
water inundate it? Proximity to care is a factor. Container gardening requires
more attention and care than plants in the home landscape. It is easy to forget these plants may need
more attention or protection if they are out of sight.
The
Penn State Masters Gardeners in Lackawanna County will be having a spring
workshops series beginning April 24 through May 10, 2014. One of the topics
will be on container gardening, among other timely topics. These will be held
at the McNulty Greenhouse at Nay Aug Park. For more information on these
sessions, to register, or if you would like help with container gardening,
please contact us 570 - 963 - 6842 or email:
LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County
Monday, March 24, 2014
Dianthus
Is winter over? We have had record lows, high temperatures that were record lows, and record snow fall this season. It has been a long one. Even with spring finally here, the yard is looking worn out, and even the harbingers of early color, crocus, tulips, and daffodils are taking their time poking their little heads up from the soil. Most of us are yearning for some fresh color.
Early spring can be unpredictable; we can have very warm days and chilly nights. It is too soon to do any serious gardening, especially if you want to spruce up your flower beds. There are options for you, though. You should be seeing cold-hardy annuals at the local garden centers soon.
While pansies are old favorites, and come in a nice variety of colors and blossoms, there is an alternative: dianthus. There are many perennial kinds of dianthus, and are generally called “pinks”. Even though dianthus do some in shades of pink, the name really comes from the old English “pynken” meaning pinking shears, referencing the notched edges of the flowers.
There are about 300 species of dianthus, and are in the Caryophyllaceae family. This derived from the Greek word for clove, because some dianthus have a clove scent to their leaves. The very popular cut flower, carnation, is a member of the same family. Strong resemblance can be seen in the foliage, and double blossoms of annual dianthus.
Dianthuses hybridize very easily, so there are many choices available. There are perennial, biennial, and hardy annual from which to choose. In our area, the most common types are sold as annuals, even though they are perennials in warmer zones. They are relatively cold tolerant like pansies. But, they range in height from six inches to two foot tall plants. Dianthus make a nice change as an early color options because they have strong upright stems, ranging in color from bright green to a greyish hue. You can find single colors of white to a velvety-red, two tone picotees, and others with dark centers and splashes of colors. Dianthus fill out better than pansies and can handle warmer full sun exposures better too.
Dianthus make excellent border or edge plants. If you like containers, they are well suited for that. Consider using them in a cutting garden. Look for plants that have a nice compact growth, ones that are not leggy. Avoid any with yellowed leaves; this may indicate malnourishment or root problems. Use some dianthus this spring, these clove scent hardy plants will spice up your garden.
For more information on dianthus, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 and request our free fact sheet on this annual.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Early spring can be unpredictable; we can have very warm days and chilly nights. It is too soon to do any serious gardening, especially if you want to spruce up your flower beds. There are options for you, though. You should be seeing cold-hardy annuals at the local garden centers soon.
While pansies are old favorites, and come in a nice variety of colors and blossoms, there is an alternative: dianthus. There are many perennial kinds of dianthus, and are generally called “pinks”. Even though dianthus do some in shades of pink, the name really comes from the old English “pynken” meaning pinking shears, referencing the notched edges of the flowers.
There are about 300 species of dianthus, and are in the Caryophyllaceae family. This derived from the Greek word for clove, because some dianthus have a clove scent to their leaves. The very popular cut flower, carnation, is a member of the same family. Strong resemblance can be seen in the foliage, and double blossoms of annual dianthus.
Dianthuses hybridize very easily, so there are many choices available. There are perennial, biennial, and hardy annual from which to choose. In our area, the most common types are sold as annuals, even though they are perennials in warmer zones. They are relatively cold tolerant like pansies. But, they range in height from six inches to two foot tall plants. Dianthus make a nice change as an early color options because they have strong upright stems, ranging in color from bright green to a greyish hue. You can find single colors of white to a velvety-red, two tone picotees, and others with dark centers and splashes of colors. Dianthus fill out better than pansies and can handle warmer full sun exposures better too.
Dianthus make excellent border or edge plants. If you like containers, they are well suited for that. Consider using them in a cutting garden. Look for plants that have a nice compact growth, ones that are not leggy. Avoid any with yellowed leaves; this may indicate malnourishment or root problems. Use some dianthus this spring, these clove scent hardy plants will spice up your garden.
For more information on dianthus, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 and request our free fact sheet on this annual.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Limitless Gardening
Sooner or later, winter will be over. It has been a long one, but the weather will be better. Certainly you have already thought of getting outside and working on your garden or other parts of your yard. As the seasons change, so do your gardening practices and expectations. Your home landscape can easily be adapted to suit your budget, spare time, tastes, and trends.
There are other ways your garden can change, and it is often overlooked: accessibility. Have spent too much time bending over, only to find yourself sore and stiff? Maybe you have mobility issues which could be a hindrance from enjoying nature. The size and age of your family can have an impact on gardening. Consider making some changes to the way you garden and the type of gardening to keep pace with the changes in life.
Most often people turn to raised beds because of soil issues, like poor quality, bad drainage, or even space problems. Raised beds can be a way of opening the hobby of gardening to anyone with physical limitations. Kneeling, bending, and hoeing can be a barrier for some people. However, if designed with your needs in mind, raised beds can become an enabling garden.
There are all different kinds of raised beds, so if this interests you, think outside the box. You can use landscape blocks in a circular shape. Try using top blocks wide enough to serve as a seat, to make working in the area much more comfortable. Choosing securely-stacked fieldstone can tie the raised bed into the rest of your landscape. Utilizing a slope for a garden can help with accessibility too. A wide collection of pots spread around the yard integrate a raised bed into the landscape. Once your raised bed is complete, make sure you fill it with good quality soil and compost.
Raised beds offer a different way of gardening, and there is different kind of gardening you can pursuit, a sensory garden. Maybe you are at a point in your life where you don’t have the time to devote to a full-fledged vegetable garden. Or it could be age is a factor, the youngest ones in your life do not possess the dexterity to gently plant a garden. Do you think poor eyesight or joint pain will limit your gardening enjoyment? Adding plants and features that not only offer a crop to feed your body but also feed you mind can give new life to your yard.
Instead of just thinking a plant will offer a harvest, many choices can give you an experience. Think of using plants with texture, like lambs ear and moss and cockscomb. Children especially will like a fun-to-feel garden. Hearing a garden can enrich the experience nature offers you. You can add plants that rustle in the wind, like Chinese lantern and many ornamental grasses. Adding a water feature can give you a relaxing time as you are working around the yard. It’s been a long time since anyone in our area has cut their grass, but we all know how nice fresh-cut grass smells, and the memories it triggers. A big part of a garden can use the sense of smell, and this can be a very rewarding experience, regardless of your limitations. Chamomile or creeping thyme can be planted around walkways, and when crushed give off a wonderful scent. Scented geraniums are a carefree addition to any garden. Culinary herbs are low maintenance but useful plants making a good choice for a sensory garden. Wind chimes and birdfeeders will make your garden even better for all your senses.
As we wait for the nicer weather, think about a different way of gardening and a different way the garden can enhance your life. Raised beds and sensory gardens are ways the home landscape can be a limitless experience. For more information on this topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
There are other ways your garden can change, and it is often overlooked: accessibility. Have spent too much time bending over, only to find yourself sore and stiff? Maybe you have mobility issues which could be a hindrance from enjoying nature. The size and age of your family can have an impact on gardening. Consider making some changes to the way you garden and the type of gardening to keep pace with the changes in life.
Most often people turn to raised beds because of soil issues, like poor quality, bad drainage, or even space problems. Raised beds can be a way of opening the hobby of gardening to anyone with physical limitations. Kneeling, bending, and hoeing can be a barrier for some people. However, if designed with your needs in mind, raised beds can become an enabling garden.
There are all different kinds of raised beds, so if this interests you, think outside the box. You can use landscape blocks in a circular shape. Try using top blocks wide enough to serve as a seat, to make working in the area much more comfortable. Choosing securely-stacked fieldstone can tie the raised bed into the rest of your landscape. Utilizing a slope for a garden can help with accessibility too. A wide collection of pots spread around the yard integrate a raised bed into the landscape. Once your raised bed is complete, make sure you fill it with good quality soil and compost.
Raised beds offer a different way of gardening, and there is different kind of gardening you can pursuit, a sensory garden. Maybe you are at a point in your life where you don’t have the time to devote to a full-fledged vegetable garden. Or it could be age is a factor, the youngest ones in your life do not possess the dexterity to gently plant a garden. Do you think poor eyesight or joint pain will limit your gardening enjoyment? Adding plants and features that not only offer a crop to feed your body but also feed you mind can give new life to your yard.
Instead of just thinking a plant will offer a harvest, many choices can give you an experience. Think of using plants with texture, like lambs ear and moss and cockscomb. Children especially will like a fun-to-feel garden. Hearing a garden can enrich the experience nature offers you. You can add plants that rustle in the wind, like Chinese lantern and many ornamental grasses. Adding a water feature can give you a relaxing time as you are working around the yard. It’s been a long time since anyone in our area has cut their grass, but we all know how nice fresh-cut grass smells, and the memories it triggers. A big part of a garden can use the sense of smell, and this can be a very rewarding experience, regardless of your limitations. Chamomile or creeping thyme can be planted around walkways, and when crushed give off a wonderful scent. Scented geraniums are a carefree addition to any garden. Culinary herbs are low maintenance but useful plants making a good choice for a sensory garden. Wind chimes and birdfeeders will make your garden even better for all your senses.
As we wait for the nicer weather, think about a different way of gardening and a different way the garden can enhance your life. Raised beds and sensory gardens are ways the home landscape can be a limitless experience. For more information on this topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
Monday, January 27, 2014
Winter Bird Feeders
Are you looking for something to do now that the holiday season is over? Like most people this time of year, you may yearn to be outside but it's too cold to stay there long. You should think about putting up a bird feeder. An overlooked gift card to a garden center or big box home improvement store can be beneficial to you, giving you a project, and helpful to some wildlife when they need it most.
By adding a feeder to your yard you can make their lives easier. As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which gives you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. A bonus would be to take up bird watching as a hobby too. You find anywhere from twenty-five to thirty-five different birds.
With that many kinds of birds, comes different feeding habits and food needs. It might be good to put up different styles of feeders to be most helpful:
Taking care of our feathered friends is an enjoyable way to mark the time as winter progresses. Winter feeding isn’t just for the birds. For more information on this please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County and request a free copy of “Winter Bird Feeding”. If you are interested in becoming a master gardener, we are having a new training class beginning February 24. We can be reached at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
By adding a feeder to your yard you can make their lives easier. As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which gives you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. A bonus would be to take up bird watching as a hobby too. You find anywhere from twenty-five to thirty-five different birds.
With that many kinds of birds, comes different feeding habits and food needs. It might be good to put up different styles of feeders to be most helpful:
- Hopper feeders: It looks like a house with Plexiglas sides on top of a platform where the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The Plexiglas makes it easy to tell when more seed needs to be added. The seed is protected against the weather but not so well against squirrels.
- Tube feeders: Hollow Plexiglas cylinders with multiple feeding ports and perches. These hanging feeders attract species that typically feed off the ground. You can attach a tray to the bottom to catch scattered seeds and to allow larger species to feed.
- Tray or platform feeders: Simple flat, raised surfaces on which you spread seed. Easy to make, they are one of the most popular feeders. Birds that typically feed on the ground are particularly attracted to this type of feeder. A disadvantage of platform feeders is that they are not squirrel-proof or weather resistant. They should have drainage holes for water and need to be cleaned often to remove bird droppings. Only one day’s worth of food should be put out at a time.
Taking care of our feathered friends is an enjoyable way to mark the time as winter progresses. Winter feeding isn’t just for the birds. For more information on this please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County and request a free copy of “Winter Bird Feeding”. If you are interested in becoming a master gardener, we are having a new training class beginning February 24. We can be reached at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Sunday, January 5, 2014
2014 Gardening Resolutions
It is a well-used trend to start any new year with resolutions: things we want to do, should do, and even some we even some bad habits to break. It is all for the sake of improvement. For the home landscape, we can make and carry out resolutions to make our yards and gardens better.
For 2014, here are ten resolutions for you to consider integrating into the garden hobby:
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
For 2014, here are ten resolutions for you to consider integrating into the garden hobby:
- Test your soil: Your growing success or failure depends on the quality of your soil. If you take a soil test you will know what nutrients are lacking and the soil pH. You can easily correct any deficiencies. Your garden will thank you. Penn State Extension has soil test kits for purchase in our offices.
- Compost: This is nature’s recycling program. Take your grass clippings, fallen leaves, and spent healthy plant material, and turn it into a free amendment that your soil will thank you by increased yields. Finished compost has natural inoculants that benefit the landscape. In addition, you save time by not bagging your yard waste, and it does not take up valuable landfill space.
- Use less chemicals: Before reaching for a spray or powder, know what the problem is. Sometimes a small sign of a disease can be tolerated without the use of chemicals. Remember too, just because a product is labeled organic, it does not mean it is harmless. A pesticide, regardless of its origin, is still dangerous. Pyrethins, a common and popular insecticide, will kill bad bugs, but also good ones like honey bees. Please read the label!
- Plant natives: Choose a perennial well suited for this area. These plants are tolerant of our weather changes, soil conditions, and pests. They tend not to be invasive so they will live in reasonable balance with the other parts of your landscape. There are trees, shrubs, perennials, ferns, and flowers from which you can choose at your local garden center. The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have lists of natives we can send to you.
- Plant for pollinators: Bees and butterflies depend on your garden for sustenance. For them, it can be feast or famine. A lot of native plants are great for the pollinators too. Besides the plants, pollinators need a source of water and shelter. Visit http://ento.psu.edu/pollinators for a wide variety of information.
- Learn to identify insects: You see all sorts of bugs around your garden. Can you tell the difference between a nuisance and a beneficial insect? Some may be doing damage while other bugs are keeping the bad ones in check. Make sure, if you are going to use a pesticide, what the insect is, if it is damaging anything or if it is a beneficial bug helping you.
- Plant extra to give away: Plan ahead to grow some extra vegetables for a food pantry. There always seems to be an abundance of fresh food and hungry people. Think about finding and helping someone in need. Giving something from your garden, or dividing a perennial is a great way to make friends with someone new in your neighborhood.
- Plant some flowers in your garden for cutting: You can have fresh flowers on your table just about every day during the summer. Give them as a gift to brighten someone’s day. You will be amazed how much of a boost you will get from a beautiful bouquet you grew yourself.
- Cut your grass a little higher: Most homeowners mow their turf too short. Generally, two and half to three inches is the optimum height for a lawn. This benefits the roots by keeping them cool and crowds out the weeds. You mow less often so you win too. Remember to let the clippings lay. They will break down easily and are great source of nitrogen for the soil. If not, you should compost them instead of sending them to the landfill.
- Learn something new: Whether you educate yourself on a new plant variety, an emerging gardening trend, or a technique, there are vast arrays of resources of reliable information. The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have plenty of learning opportunities coming up.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
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