Fresh Cut Christmas Trees: Good for the Environment and the Economy

Some people think it is wasteful and harmful to the environment when Americans cut down and use 30 million live trees to celebrate Christmas.  There concern for tree loss is understandable, but it is important to understand that there are over 350 million Christmas trees growing on farms across the United States as sustainable crops like corn, pumpkins, or tomatoes.  In 2012 alone, over 46 million Christmas tree seedlings were planted on farms where they will be grown, sheared, and protected from insects and diseases for 6-10 years before they are ready for sale.   While those trees are growing they consume large amounts of carbon dioxide (greenhouse gases that are warming our planet), produce oxygen, prevent soil erosion, capture and reduce storm water runoff that can cause stream flooding, and provide habitat and winter cover for many wildlife species.   Better yet, they keep local working farms alive and profitable.  There are more than 12,000 Christmas tree farms in the United States and in 2009 Pennsylvania tree farmers had over $19.3 million dollars in sales, accounting for 7.8 % of the national market.  Nationally over 100,000 people are employed full or part-time by the Christmas tree industry.
  
Once the holidays are over, 93% of real Christmas tree consumers recycle their tree in community recycling programs, their garden or backyard.  Those trees become mulch, compost, or habitat for wildlife and fish (when placed in ponds).  

Now compare that to artificial trees.  The first artificial tree was made largely of aluminum and was manufactured in the United States, first in Chicago in 1958.   Today, most artificial trees are made from PVC plastic with 85% of them being manufactured in China and shipped thousands of miles across the world to a retail store in the United States.  Those artificial trees do not provide oxygen, soils stabilization, or wildlife habitat, although we might be able to recycle the plastic at some point.  In 2011, Americans purchased 9.5 million artificial trees, helping China’s economy. 

So this holiday, as we purchase many of our electronics, toys, and decorations that were manufactured in China or elsewhere, consider taking the family on an outdoor adventure to buy an American grown fresh cut tree from a local farm.  It real does help our economy and our environment.

For more information about selecting and caring for your cut Christmas tree, visit http://extension.psu.edu/allegheny/news/spotlight/selection-care-of-cut-christmas-trees


Vincent Cotrone
Urban Forester
Penn State University

Chipmunks and Squirrels

As you are putting up holiday decorations, doing some last minute outside repairs, or cleaning up around your yard, keep an eye out for two potential problems: squirrels and chipmunks. They can easily settle around and even inside your house for the winter, plus they can damage your plants.

Chipmunks burrow around areas where they are well hidden, such as wood piles, brush, basements, and garages. The damage these spunky little creatures can do is surprising. By tunneling under patios, retention walls, stairs or foundations, they can cause structural problems. They consume flower bulbs, seeds, seedlings, and even pet food.

Exclusion is the best way to manage chipmunk damage. Close all openings where chipmunks can enter the home with caulking or hardware cloth. Covering your landscape beds with this mesh will protect your bulbs and seeds. Spread soil over the hardware cloth.  Exclusion also is the best way to prevent damage.

Certain landscape features provide protection for chipmunks, such as ground covers and shrubs. These make it easy for chipmunks to gain entry to your home. Remove piles of debris and keep grass cut short. Modifying your landscape for the winter will keep chipmunk activity down.

Related to chipmunks, is the squirrel. This omnipresent rodent derived its name from the Greek word meaning “to shadow” referring to their big bushy tails. Once inside your home, they can damage insulation, walls, and electrical wires. Squirrels do damage because of their propensity to gnaw on structures.  Once inside they chew on insulation and electrical wires. This is dangerous as bare wires are a fire hazard.

Of less of a danger, but still a nuisance, is a squirrel’s relentless pillaging of bird feeders. Adding to the list of annoyances is their habit of damaging your landscape through their quest to find or hide their cache of nuts. They feed on seeds, mature fruit, and grains.  As squirrels clip shrubs and trees to build their nests, they make them susceptible to winter damage.

Exclusion is the first step. It is important to make certain no squirrel is inside your home before blocking entrances. Squirrels will do even more damage trying to get out. Baited box traps in an attic may catch a locked in squirrel. Lighting attic space has been a deterrent. Chemicals and repellents are costly and have shown only modest success.

Habitat modification is effective. Trimming trees six to eight feet from buildings will keep squirrels from jumping onto roofs. If they are attacking bird feeders, consider nailing an ear of corn to a fence post far away from the problem area. There are squirrel baffles and many kinds of squirrel resistant feeders on the market.

For more help on protecting your home and landscape from these four-footed nuisances, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request the free publications on chipmunks and squirrels


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Protection And Control Of Rabbits

There is one familiar furry resident in your home landscape which does tremendous damage in the upcoming winter months.  While rabbits live year-round in your garden, their behavior is more pronounced now. Protecting the trees, shrubs, and perennials from these varmints will help them cope with the seasonal struggles better.

Rabbits chew off buds and stems of shrubs and other low-growing plants. Rabbits harm the bark of young trees, especially fruit trees. Damage is usually confined to 18 to 24 inches above ground or snow level. Stems are cut off cleanly, leaving a sharp 45-degree angle cut. Other tell-tale, or maybe bunny-tail, signs of a rabbit visit include elongated tracks in the snow and little piles of round brown droppings.

Control rabbits by:

• Eliminating hiding places such as brush, tall grass, and weeds. Remember crawl spaces, under decks and sheds.
• Protecting gardens with fencing. A chicken wire fence, with a one-inch or finer mesh at least two feet high, provides adequate protection.
• Extend the bottom of the fence at least six inches below the soil line.
• Using tree guards, wraps or hardware cloth around the trunks of young trees. Dig hardware cloth into the ground at least six inches and extend it well above the anticipated snow level. As the tree grows, the barrier must be loosened.
• Using repellants. These are available at local garden supply stores. By law, all commercial repellents must be used according to instructions on the product label.
• Trapping. Rabbits are protected species in Pennsylvania so when done out of season, it should only be done when they are causing damage to private property and in accordance to PA laws.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free publication on the control of rabbits. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Winter Bird Care

The chill of November is here to remind us the cold will soon settle in for a long stay. Most people have started preparing in many ways: putting the storm windows on the house, storing the hoes and tools, cutting back perennials, and so on. It seems there is just as much work to end the growing season as starting it. There is one more task a homeowner can do which reaps all sorts of rewards: winter bird feeding.

As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which give you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. Consider taking up bird watching as a winter hobby too.

 

Depending on the habitat and neighborhood, you can see as many as thirty-five different species of birds. This has an impact on the kind of food you need. Not all birds prefer one kind of seed. At your local garden center, you can find as many as twenty different kinds of bird food. The best all-purpose food is a black-oil sunflower seed. It has a thin seed coat so it easy for smaller birds to crack open, but it does cost more. Striped sunflower seed is popular with bigger birds, but one disadvantage is the spent hulls left behind. Shelled or whole peanuts are a good choice for blue jays, chickadees, and woodpeckers. Seed mixes work well, but birds have been known to sort through the stuff they like and leave the rest behind. Suet provides much-needed fat in the winter. For a family project, “marvel meal” can be made at home.

The type of feeder you use will attract different kinds of birds as well. A hopper feeder looks like a house with plexiglass sides on top of a platform where the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The plexiglass makes it easy to tell when more seed needs to be added. The seed is protected against the weather, but not so well against squirrels. Tube feeders are hollow plexiglass cylinders with multiple feeding ports and perches. These hanging feeders attract species that typically feed off the ground. You can attach a tray to the bottom to catch scattered seeds and to allow larger species to feed. Tray or platform feeders are simple, flat, raised surfaces on which you spread seed. Easy to make, they are one of the most popular feeders. Birds that typically feed on the ground are particularly attracted to this type of feeder. A disadvantage of platform feeders is that they are not squirrel-proof or weather resistant. They should have drainage holes for water and need to be cleaned often to remove bird droppings. Only one day’s worth of food should be put out at a time. Water becomes very scarce in the winter time. Adding a water source will attract even more diversity. Birdbaths do not have to be fancy. Terra cotta planter saucers work well, as do trash can lids, turned upside with some stones placed inside to keep it from blowing away.

 

Site selection is the last thing to keep in mind. You can place the feeders close enough to watch from a window. Birds in winter can be very entertaining. Keep it about ten feet from trees and shrubs. Birds do not venture far from protective cover. This gives them an opportunity to be close to shelter, gives them a perch to rest, and protection from elements. Monitor for the presence of cats and squirrels too. If you see signs of bear, remove the feeder at once. If a bear knows there is a food source, he will keep coming back for more.

If you would like more information on this topic, the Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Bird Feeding” available. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email at LackawannaMG@psu.edu  to request a copy.

 

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Spring Bulbs

Gardening has its good and not-so-good parts. It is a healthy hobby, but intense at times. Whether it is a vegetable, annual, or perennial, nothing is as rewarding as seeing the home landscape in full maturity.  However, it takes a lot of work, trial, and error to achieve results.  One benefit of gardening is it teaches us patience.  Good things come to those who wait.  As we are getting ready to put our gardens to bed for winter, we also need to think of next year at the same time, but we will be rewarded in time.

Think about spring color now, how nice it would be to see bright colors emerging as the rest of the garden still slumbers.  Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, can greet us warmly, but we have to do the work now.  Spring-flowering bulbs are unparalleled in terms of choices for plant material, kinds of blooms and colors, and a varied bloom time.  There is some time left to do this, and you can find some really good deals at your local garden center now.

Some things to consider...
Site:
Most bulbs need well drained soil.  If the area tends to have standing water after a spring thaw, then look for another location.  It is generally recommended not to plant under trees.  Bulbs require five to six hours of full sun at a minimum, and eight to ten for the best flowers.  Clusters, or larger groupings, have the most eye appeal so make sure you have plenty of room for a big display.  Avoid planting in a lawn or location that might be damaged from lawn care.  Their foliage needs as much sun as possible, so if they are cut down before dieback, it may affect the bulb quality. Spring bulbs do best if they are left in the same location year after year, so pick a site with that in mind.  Preparation is key to success for spring bulbs.  Loosen the soil to a depth of about twelve inches.  Add composted organic material to the top eight inches.  If you haven’t had a soil test done, then choose a low nitrogen formula.  There are many tailored just for spring bulbs.

Selection:
“Bulb” is a general term used to describe a host of plants. True bulbs include tulips, lilies, and daffodils.  Crocus start as corms.  Bearded iris and lily of the valley have tubers, which are thick underground stems.  Whichever you choose, tulips and daffodils have a wide variety of colors, and bloom types. They offer the greatest range of bloom times as well. Crocus give you the earliest color.  Hyacinths have a sweet fragrance outside.  Consider mixing and staggering your plantings to give you continuous color from March through May.  Spring bulbs, with very little care, will come back each year, fuller with better color.

The Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Hardy Bulbs in Pennsylvania.”  For a copy, please contact us 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG @psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Falling On Tough Times

It has been a difficult year for your lawn. Extended hot, dry periods in the summer after a very mild winter, as your turf grass was exposed to everything in between. Most people have found bare spots and weeds co-mingled with the grass. Fall is the perfect time to help your lawn recover and prepare for a better growing season next spring.

•Weed Control
Fall is a great time for weed management, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Identify the weeds, not all will survive the winter, or even heavy frost. Some will persist like dandelions, thistle, and bindweed. Use a product labeled for use on those specific weeds, and follow the directions. Herbicides are poison, and dangerous if mis-handled. Weeds compete with grass for food and nutrients so it is good for your lawn to manage weeds, but it is recommended to spot treat weeds. This means only using an herbicide in certain areas during the fall, unlike other times of the year where you would broadcast over the whole grass areas.

•Thatch Care
Thatch is a build-up of living and dead grass roots and stems between the soil and green grass blades. Some level of that is a good thing. The amount of thatch in the lawn may be checked by cutting three to four inches down into the grass with a shovel and lifting up a piece of sod. Thatch looks like a thick tangle of dark brown roots above the soil level. If thatch is greater than 1/2 inch, the lawn should be core aerated or de-thatched. Fall is an excellent time to de-thatch. In lawns with a thatch layer over 3/4 inch thick, you should aerate then topdress with a thin layer (1/8 to 1/4 inch) of soil or compost. Topdressing adds microorganisms that help breakdown thatch.

•Spot Cover
Fall is a great time to re-seed any bare spots in the lawn. Good soil contact is crucial for germination.  For small areas, use a rake to work up the soil so it is loose. For larger areas, a tiller may be necessary if the top few inches are compacted. Choose a perennial rye blend for best results. This selection has good heat and drought tolerance and grows quickly to fill in the empty areas.  Cover lightly with straw or some of the newer seed starter mulches available at your local garden center.

In addition to these steps, fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn. Consider a soil test kit to find out exactly what kinds of nutrients the turf will need. These kits are for sale in our office.

For more information on fall lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free packet of information on this topic. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for one. Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? We are having a fall training class beginning October 22, you can contact us for more information.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Master Gardener Training

Penn State Extension in Lackawanna County will be offering the Master Gardener Training Program in the fall.  This program involves extensive training in the major aspects of home horticulture.  In addition, candidates will commit to fifty hours of volunteer time including staffing the garden helpline.

The training will be held Monday and Thursday nights beginning October 22. For more information or an application, please call 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County Office
200 Adams Avenue, LL
Scranton, PA 18503
Phone: 570-963-6842
Email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Web: extension.psu.edu

Garlic!

The taste was in the air.  If you were one of the tens of thousands who visited the Italian Festival in downtown Scranton last weekend, you could smell and vicariously taste the one essential condiment of Italian cooking: garlic.  It is used to flavor sauces, dips, spreads, pickles, breads, and known to ward off a vampire or two.  It is more versatile in the kitchen than its close cousin the onion.

Garlic is one of the few crops which do best with a fall planting, and require about eight months to mature.  From the first frost to early November is the ideal time to plant.

Choose a well-drained location with rich organic, loamy type soil.  Heavy clay or stony soils will result in misshapen bulbs.   It is recommended that you take a soil test to determine the pH and whether amendments are needed or not.  These test kits are available for purchase at our office.  Do not use a site which was used to grow onion family crops.  Garlic is a poor competitor for weeds so mulch with two to four inches of straw or plant a cover crop, such as buckwheat or rye, to keep weeds down.

When selecting cloves to plant, do not use bulbs from the supermarket. Some have been treated to prevent after harvest sprouting, and are often not native and poorly suited for our climate.  Purchase fresh cloves from your local garden center or mail order supply company. There are three different varieties from which to choose:

• Softneck: This kind stays soft during harvest, and is used in braiding. It tends to have larger cloves on the outside and smaller cloves inside. It has the strongest flavor and store well. Softneck are less winter hardy than stiffneck.
• Stiffneck: These have a central stem that curls as it grows. Sitffneck garlic is milder in flavor, easy to peel, and grows in a single ring around the stem. In contrast to the softneck, they are cold hardy but do not store as well.
• Elephant: So called because they have larger bulbs with fewer but bigger cloves. It has mild flavor and is not as cold hardy as the other kinds.

 For best results, consider planting a mix of the kinds.  Plant with the tips up, two inches deep, four to six inches apart in rows fifteen to twenty-four inches apart.  For elephant garlic, a depth of three inches and spaced eight to twelve inches is recommended.  The hardest part of growing garlic is the wait- usually mid-July it is ready.  Seems so far off, but just imagine the taste of fresh garlic on your table!

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free “Growing Garlic” publication for more information.  For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Steve Ward

Master Gardener Coordinator

Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County

 

Blossom End Rot

One of the current issues plaguing the home gardener right now is blossom-end rot. Often mistaken for a disease, it is primarily a physiological problem. No bacteria or pest causes blossom-end rot, rather the plant cannot get what it needs: calcium. This disorder is caused by a lack of calcium uptake from the soil and resulting in little transfer to the fruits during dry weather. Because we have experienced a much lower rainfall this season, you may be seeing the signs of this now.

Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit, but most commonly are first seen when the fruit is one-third to one-half its full size. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. Initially a small, water-soaked spot appears, which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruit develops. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as one third to one-half of the entire fruit surface, or the spot may remain small and superficial. Large lesions soon dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture.

Blossom-end rot happens when a number of conditions come into place.  The disease is especially prevalent when rapidly growing, succulent plants are exposed suddenly to a period of drought. The roots fail to obtain sufficient water for calcium to be transported up to the rapidly developing fruit, causing the bottom of the tomato to rot. Other factors include a pH out of range and damage done to the roots from cultivation too closely.  Soils that contain excessive amounts of soluble salts may predispose tomatoes to the disease, for the availability of calcium to the plants decreases rapidly as total salts in the soil increase.

To manage blossom-end rot take these steps:

·  Water consistently if there is a lack of rain, about one inch per week.

·  Add mulch to your garden, this conserves moisture.

·  Use fertilizer low in nitrogen, but high in superphosphate, such as 4-12-4 or 5-20-5

·  Do not spray any type of pesticide, as this is not a symptom of insect, bacteria, or fungi    damage. Pesticides are  ineffective on blossom-end rot.

·  Consider a soil test. This will give you a complete analysis of what your garden needs and will give you a head start for the next growing season.

For more information on blossom-end rot, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842, or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the blossom-end rot publication.

Steve Ward

Master Gardener Coordinator

Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Harvest Times

Soon all the toil and trouble will be history, and you can finally enjoy the benefits of having a garden. All the work will bring you fresh grown, hand-picked vegetables of your choosing, right when you want them. Assuming they are ready though. One of the advantages of having your own vegetable garden is you can harvest them when they are the optimal flavor. So how do you know?

Less is more:
The less you handle the plants and the crops the better they will be. Be careful not to step on vines or break stems, through which diseases and insects can attack the plant. Handle any harvest with care. Bruises, nicks, and cuts affect quality and storage capability. Avoid working in the garden when it is wet. Some diseases are waterborne and are spread through incidental contact, water is easy transferred by shoes, clothing, and pets.

Size doesn’t always matter:
Color, firmness, and texture are indicators of whether a crop is ready or not, size being a lessor factor. Look for uniform color on tomatoes, and red peppers. Preference is given to useable size on green peppers, cucumbers, and lettuce. Look for full color and a bright shiny finish on eggplants.

Other factors:
Vegetable growing is not an exact science, so other factors may determine whether a crop is ready or not. Some are simple preferences. Lima beans can be picked in the immature stage if you like them tender; for meatier lima beans wait until the pods are full but not yellow. Cantaloupes are ready when the stem slips easily from the vine, the surface netting turns beige, or the blossom end is soft and sweet-smelling.

Watermelon are ripe when the melon gives a ringing metallic sound as it is being thumped with your fingers. A hollow thud means it is not ready. Horseradish, turnips, some beets and carrots do much better after a frost.

Once you have picked your bounty, use the vegetables as quickly as possible. Keep them in a cool, dark, but well ventilated space. And make sure they are protected from rodents. If you refrigerate the vegetables, use a perforated plastic bag. Regular storage bags trap moisture and condensation and will hasten the degradation of the vegetables.

For more information on harvest times, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of “Harvesting Home Garden Vegetables”


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Sierra Club Sponsors Showing of the Film “Vanishing of the Bees”

Contacts:

Linda Melvin 570-586-2617
Doug Heller  570-241-8244
dheller2@yahoo.com

The Northeastern group of the Pennsylvania Sierra Club teams with Lackawanna State Park to present the film “Vanishing of the Bees”.   

For several years now, Honey bees have been mysteriously disappearing all over the world. Millions of bees leave their hives and don't return. Bees pollinate 1/3 of our diet. Without them, trees can't produce apples or nearly any other fruit and many vegetables won't grow. Beekeepers believe there must be reasons for the holocaust but the trend baffles scientists and frightens all associated with the food industry from farmers to grocery storeowners. According to the National Resources Defense Council, hive destruction continuing at the current rate will evoke a national, natural disaster.

The film "Vanishing of the Bees" explores the mysterious disappearance of the small yet vital insect that helps farms from around the USA supply food to the world. . The Sierra Club presents this landmark film on Friday, July 27 at 7:30 PM at the Lackawanna State Park Learning Center, 1839 Abington Road.   Penn State Cooperative Extension service educator and beekeeper, Kim Carlen, will field questions and provide an update on this disturbing trend. Ellen Paige narrates and says ,"This film can help change this grave situation into an opportunity for people to come together and make changes for the good of the bees and everything else on the planet." We don't have to wait for the government to act on some of these issues. We can do something today..

The Sierra Club is the country’s oldest environmental organization founded in 1892 by John Muir.  The club’s mission is to explore, enjoy and protect the wild places of the earth.  Practice and promote the responsible use of the earth’s ecosystems and resources, Educate and enlist humanity to protect and restore the quality of the natural and human environment.  Use all lawful means to carry out these objectives.

Is that a Brush Pile or a Pile of Brush?

Do you enjoy seeing wildlife? Do you have lots of smaller diameter low-value trees on your property? If so, constructing brush piles is for you. They are a great way to increase numbers of many kinds of small game and non-game species. Here are some tips on making a long-lasting brush pile instead of a pile of brush.

Good locations include edges of fields and woods, fence corners, shallow gullies, near ponds and food strips. A brush pile in your yard can be small and tucked into a corner. Do not place them in the middle of a field, in standing water, or where there is severe erosion on a steep slope. Brush piles are flammable, so keep them away from buildings. Several medium-sized piles (10-15 feet wide and 5-8 feet high) are better than one large pile. Space them 300 feet apart or less.

Make a base with stumps and logs that are at least six inches in diameter. Lay them four to six inches apart. Stack the next layer at right angles to the first, log-cabin style and the next with smaller logs, again at right angles.

Pile smaller brush on top of the logs so the base is covered and the brush touches the ground. Make your top layers denser, working in even smaller branches. Allow openings into the base that are not covered by the brush on top.

Considering planting native vines to grow over your brush pile. They are attractive and their fruit will attract birds.

For additional instructions, methods and materials see the full article by David Scamardella, Service Forester, PA Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources, and Michael and Laura Jackson, PA Forest Stewards Volunteers. It is in the Winter 2012 issue of Forest Leaves, available at http://extension.psu.edu/private-forests/news/newsletters/forest-leaves/winter-2012/view. Or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Helpline at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Wild Bird Feeding- Is it OK?

More than 55 million Americans feed wild birds and a third of Pennsylvanians observe wildlife around their homes. And according to an article by Joe Kosack, Wildlife Conservation Education Specialist with the Pennsylvania Game Commission (PGC), they spend millions of dollars on these pastimes; making them part of a full-fledged American industry that influences our economy.

And while Doug Gross, PGC biologist, prefers planting vegetation beneficial to birds before hanging feeders he recognizes not everyone can do so. So here are some bird-feeder tips from Gross.

Location

• Place feeders near cover to shield songbirds from avian predators AND at least 15 feet away from windows (that they may fly into) as well as from groundcover (that might hide cats).


• Make sure there is some nearby cover for birds to use for perching and seed-cracking.

Feeders, food, and water

• Select the feeder and seeds/food that would attract the species you want to visit. The three easiest ways to attract the greatest number of birds involve using cylindrical feeders filled with black-oil sunflower seeds and/or thistle seeds and suet feeders, and ground feeding with corn, millet and black-oil sunflower seeds.


• After seeds, some great choices are raisins for Carolina wrens and thrushes; peanuts for blue jays, cardinals and nuthatches; even peanut-butter smeared in tree crevices.


• A heated birdbath also attracts birds; not because it's heated, but rather because it offers accessible water.


• While most birds will not become dependent on feeders, if you commit to feeding birds in winter, it's best not to stop in the middle of winter.

Sanitation

• Keep your feeders clean so birds don't risk contracting diseases. If you're not seeing sick-looking birds at your feeder, cleaning it once or twice a month is sufficient. Increase the frequency to once a week if trouble shows.


• - Clean bird feeders with soap and water; then a solution that is one part of household bleach and nine parts of warm water. Rinse thoroughly and wait until it is completely dry before using it.


• - While bleach is the most effective cleanser, another cleaning solution can be made by mixing one part white vinegar to four parts warm water, but this solution will not kill viruses.


• "Another way to reduce the spread of disease at your feeders is to offer seeds in different areas and at multiple heights" Gross explained.

Unwanted visitors

Bird feeders could attract black bears, deer, raccoons, squirrels and field mice. Black bears had a rough fall - acorn crop failure - and some may be more active this winter than usual. Suet and black-oil sunflower seeds would be very appealing to them. Raccoons also are partial to suet. Deer, on the other hand, can be drawn by shelled corn. So can field mice. Squirrels come to just about everything you offer.

Flying squirrels, field mice and raccoons (and outside cities- Norway rats) sometimes look for and find hideouts in your house or garage. And once they get in, you have to get them out, find out how they got in and then seal the access point.

Other unwanted guests include starlings, house finches and house sparrows. Starlings, in particular, can really crowd feeders, and aggressively chase away other songbirds you may want to see. Corn and suet seem to be starling magnets, so pull in the corn when they start showing up and use suet feeders that require users to cling and feed, which starlings can't do well.

Habitat

And remembering that creating habitat is preferable to putting out a feeder, the Game Commission will be offering a variety of wildlife-friendly tree and shrub seedlings in its annual seedling sale. Check out the Game Commission's website for information on how to select and order seedlings from the agency's Howard Nursery (found under General Store).

To see the full article go to www.pgc.state.pa.us, click on Resources then News Releases and then Wild Bird Feeding: Is it OK?. Or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator

Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Whiteflies and Gnats

Adult whiteflies resemble tiny white moths. They are about 1/16th of an inch long, and white with four wings, and may be covered with a powdery white wax. The nymphs or immature whiteflies resemble flat disks on the undersides of the leaves and may or may not be covered with wax. Whiteflies injure plants by sucking plant sap. They excrete honeydew, which gives the plants a sticky appearance and supports the growth of black sooty mold. Heavy whitefly infestations can cause stunted, distorted, and discolored leaves, and the plant may not grow well. To control whiteflies on houseplants, spray the undersides of leaves with an insecticidal soap labeled for use on houseplants or with a houseplant insecticide spray. You will need to repeat the spray as new whiteflies hatch out. Be sure the both plant and pest are listed on the label, and follow label directions very carefully. And please note that using liquid dish soap may not control the pest and could cause plant injury- insecticidal soaps have been tested and formulated to work properly.

Fungus gnats are harmless to humans and animals but can become a nuisance indoors when adults emerge in large numbers as mosquito-like insects from potted plants or flower boxes containing damp soil that is rich in humus. Adults are attracted to lights and are often first noticed at windows. Larvae or maggots can injure the roots of bedding plants, African violets, carnations, cyclamens, geraniums, poinsettias and foliage plants. Plant symptoms may appear as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, yellowing and foliage loss.

To prevent fungus gnats:

• Inspect plants carefully before purchase and before bringing them back indoors for the winter for signs of insect infestation. Discard if heavily infested with any insect and unable to save.


• Always use sterile potting soil.


• Overwatering, water leaks and poor drainage may result in buildup of fungus gnats. Allowing the soil to dry as much as possible, without injury to the plants, is effective in killing many maggots.


• Remove all old plant material and debris in and around the home. Practice good sanitation.

To see the fact sheet from Ohio State University on fungus gnats go to: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2114.html or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County