Winter Bird Care

The chill of November is here to remind us the cold will soon settle in for a long stay. Most people have started preparing in many ways: putting the storm windows on the house, storing the hoes and tools, cutting back perennials, and so on. It seems there is just as much work to end the growing season as starting it. There is one more task a homeowner can do which reaps all sorts of rewards: winter bird feeding.

As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which give you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. Consider taking up bird watching as a winter hobby too.

 

Depending on the habitat and neighborhood, you can see as many as thirty-five different species of birds. This has an impact on the kind of food you need. Not all birds prefer one kind of seed. At your local garden center, you can find as many as twenty different kinds of bird food. The best all-purpose food is a black-oil sunflower seed. It has a thin seed coat so it easy for smaller birds to crack open, but it does cost more. Striped sunflower seed is popular with bigger birds, but one disadvantage is the spent hulls left behind. Shelled or whole peanuts are a good choice for blue jays, chickadees, and woodpeckers. Seed mixes work well, but birds have been known to sort through the stuff they like and leave the rest behind. Suet provides much-needed fat in the winter. For a family project, “marvel meal” can be made at home.

The type of feeder you use will attract different kinds of birds as well. A hopper feeder looks like a house with plexiglass sides on top of a platform where the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The plexiglass makes it easy to tell when more seed needs to be added. The seed is protected against the weather, but not so well against squirrels. Tube feeders are hollow plexiglass cylinders with multiple feeding ports and perches. These hanging feeders attract species that typically feed off the ground. You can attach a tray to the bottom to catch scattered seeds and to allow larger species to feed. Tray or platform feeders are simple, flat, raised surfaces on which you spread seed. Easy to make, they are one of the most popular feeders. Birds that typically feed on the ground are particularly attracted to this type of feeder. A disadvantage of platform feeders is that they are not squirrel-proof or weather resistant. They should have drainage holes for water and need to be cleaned often to remove bird droppings. Only one day’s worth of food should be put out at a time. Water becomes very scarce in the winter time. Adding a water source will attract even more diversity. Birdbaths do not have to be fancy. Terra cotta planter saucers work well, as do trash can lids, turned upside with some stones placed inside to keep it from blowing away.

 

Site selection is the last thing to keep in mind. You can place the feeders close enough to watch from a window. Birds in winter can be very entertaining. Keep it about ten feet from trees and shrubs. Birds do not venture far from protective cover. This gives them an opportunity to be close to shelter, gives them a perch to rest, and protection from elements. Monitor for the presence of cats and squirrels too. If you see signs of bear, remove the feeder at once. If a bear knows there is a food source, he will keep coming back for more.

If you would like more information on this topic, the Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Bird Feeding” available. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email at LackawannaMG@psu.edu  to request a copy.

 

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Don't Bury Your Tree

In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.

First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org

The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.

Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.

The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.

For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org

Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners

I know, making New Year’s resolutions is so two weeks ago … but hey, there’s still time to make some resolutions that will give you a healthier garden, help protect your family and the environment, and (without having to make another resolution) probably help you lose a few pounds along the way!

Here are 12 resolutions for the coming year, adapted from a list developed by Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor from the University of Vermont.

1. Start a compost pile for leaves, plant residues, and kitchen scraps to be mixed in your soil as compost or around your plants as mulch to enrich your garden and improve plant growth.
2. Use biological controls whenever feasible for insects and diseases in the garden, starting with planting pest-resistant varieties.
3. Apply pesticides (whether conventional or organic) only as a last resort and always use them safely and prudently.
4. Store all garden chemicals (pesticides, fertilizers, etc.) in their original containers, out of reach of children and pets, and preferably in a locked storage area.
5. Use fertilizers only as indicated by soil tests, and use organic forms whenever possible.
6. Mow properly (often, not too high or low), and set up your mower to “leave grass clippings lay” (or compost them) so they will recycle organic matter and nutrients back into the soil.
7. Conserve water by mulching, using efficient watering methods such as drip irrigation systems, and selecting drought-resistant ornamental plants.
8. Develop a landscape plan that works with the environment, for example, ground covers on steep banks to prevent soil erosion and shade trees on the sunny side of a home to act as a natural air conditioner. Landscaping also can help reduce temperature extremes, filter out air pollutants, and stop noise.
9. Create natural wildlife habitats by planting trees and shrubs that provide food or cover or by leaving brush and undergrowth in certain areas for birds, rabbits, and other small animals to use as a protective haven.
10. Provide food and water for the birds and to continue to feed them once they have come to depend on you.
11. Establish and maintain pollinator-friendly plantings and use gardening methods that protect and nurture both “wild” and managed pollinators.
12. Encourage others, whenever possible, to do all they can to help preserve the environment and our natural resources.

If you have questions, contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Caring for a Real Christmas Tree

Last week we talked about selecting a fresh Christmas tree; here are some tips to help you keep it fresh through the holiday season. For best results, follow these tips from the time you purchase your tree until you remove it from your home.

• Use a tree stand that holds 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter and keep the water level above base of tree at all times. The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important.
• Tree trunk too wide for the tree stand? Buy a larger stand, do NOT whittle the trunk!
• Storing a tree for a few days? Put trunk in water and store in a cool, shaded and protected area.
• More than 12 hours since harvest? Cut off about ¼” from the base to improve water uptake. Do not angle or v-cut.
• Keep trees away from sources of heat (direct sunlight, heat vents, etc.) and keep the room cool.
• It is NOT worth it to: drill holes in the base, use “I-V” type devices, apply anti-transpirants or add anything to the water in the stand.
• Proper tree care and watering reduces fire hazards more than spraying trees with flame retardants.
• Run your fingers across the needles. If they break easily or fall off in your hand, the tree is dry and should be removed from the house.

For the full article on Christmas tree care by Dr. Rick Bates go to http://ento.psu.edu/extension/christmas-trees/cultural-information/caring-for-your-cut-christmas-tree or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Choosing a Christmas Tree

Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you:

In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.

Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.

These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.

Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.

• Balsam Fir: soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
• Colorado Blue Spruce: stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
• Douglas Fir: widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
• Scotch Pine: one of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
• White Pine: native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
• Fraser Fir: closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.

Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Watering House Plants

Here are some watering tips for your houseplants. If you ever notice that your houseplants aren’t performing as expected or look less than desirable, start by making small changes to their environment and observe whether the plant is responding before making drastic alterations.

Always use room-temperature water to avoid shock to the root system.

Check plants often enough to ensure that the potting mix is moist, but avoid keeping it too wet or not wet enough. Stick a finger into the media up to the first knuckle and feel whether it is wet below the surface. Water the plant if the potting mix feels dry, and then wait to water again until the media feels slightly moist, but not too dry.

Check the soil for dryness more often if the plants are:

• Larger or have large leaves
• In higher light or low relative humidity conditions
• Rapidly growing
• In a smaller pot (consider repotting!) or in a porous pot like clay
• In a potting mix that dries quickly
  

If leaf cover is dense and makes watering difficult, place the container in a pan of room temperature water for about 30 minutes while the potting mix absorbs water though the container’s drainage holes. This method works well for plant species such as cyclamen whose leaves or crown can become damaged if they get wet.

For the complete fact sheet on houseplant care, go to: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/files/caring_for_houseplants.pdf or contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call the Garden Helpline at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
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Vegetable Garden Update

Here are a few observations of what is happening in vegetable gardens this week.

• Harvest is finally in full swing, yeah!
• Late blight continues to spread to additional gardens. It is infecting more tomato plants than potato plants.
• Early blight and bacterial spot are abundant also.
• Downy Mildew has arrived. Downy will kill cucumbers and other vine crops.
• Powdery mildew is showing up on early planted summer squash. I expect to see it attack pumpkins and winter squash soon.
• Squash bugs are out in force on summer squash.
• You should have fall cole crops planted by now. You will need to check them for cabbage worms.
• You have time for a fall lettuce and spinach planting if you do it this week.
• If you have not harvested your onions, do it ASAP. Store them in a cool place.
• Be prepared to water. Because the soil has been wet all season, your plants do not have a deep root system so they are more susceptible to dry periods.
• Finally, keep the fruit picked. If fruit is allowed to stay on the plant beyond its usable stage, the plant will put energy into the old fruit and stop producing new fruit.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

So. What's happening in YOUR garden, be it vegetable, fruit or flower? We'd love to hear from you!