Even though the temperature is below freezing and our landscapes look stark and lifeless, it is the perfect time to walk your property and evaluate your trees branch structure while the leaves are off the tree and not blocking your view to the interior of the canopy. When examining the leafless canopy, look for broken, damaged and dead branches, decay cavities, rubbing and crossing branches, and weakly attached branches with included bark that form a “V” type union. It might seem difficult at first, but soon you will begin to see branches that don’t have buds or the bark is sloughing off, which are pretty good signs that the branch is dead. Following some of the recent storms, including hurricane Sandy, there might be broken branches that are still hanging in the tree that should be removed before they fall out and cause damage. Look for splits or cracks in branches and cavities in the trunk or large branches.
Co-dominant stems are formed when two branches that are about the same diameter come together to form a tight V shaped union. Over time these two stems will get larger in diameter, applying pressure to each other until one stem breaks out, usually in a storm or high wind event. These tight V unions are not as strong as smaller branches that are attached with something called a branch collar. These branches tend to be growing at a 45 degree angle to the trunk and are tightly held in place by branch collars, formed by trunk wood. It is best to remove one of the co-dominant stems when the tree is young or the branch is small.
Once you evaluated your trees in the winter, you might decide they need to be pruned, either by a professional arborist or yourself, as long as you can do that safely (never climb a tree unless you have been trained to do this work and are using ropes and safety equipment). Winter is a good time to prune because we can see branch structure, insects and diseases are not present, and the tree will devote some of its stored energy into closing the pruning wounds in the spring as it begins to grow. Some worry about species that “bleed” when pruned in the winter, but it is only sap flowing from species such as maple, birch, beech and elm and it does not harm the tree.
Winter is also a good time to have an arborist evaluate and prune your trees because it is their slower season. Who knows, you might even get a better price during the winter months. Just make sure you find someone who is knowledgeable, like an ISA Certified Arborist, and will not “top”, “over thin”, or damage your tree. For more information about tree pruning and tree care, visit www.patrees.org
Vincent Cotrone
Penn State Extension Urban Forester
& ISA Certified Arborist
Showing posts with label trees. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trees. Show all posts
Monday, February 11, 2013
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
Fresh Cut Christmas Trees: Good for the Environment and the Economy
Some people think it is wasteful and harmful to the environment when Americans cut down and use 30 million live trees to celebrate Christmas. There concern for tree loss is understandable, but it is important to understand that there are over 350 million Christmas trees growing on farms across the United States as sustainable crops like corn, pumpkins, or tomatoes. In 2012 alone, over 46 million Christmas tree seedlings were planted on farms where they will be grown, sheared, and protected from insects and diseases for 6-10 years before they are ready for sale. While those trees are growing they consume large amounts of carbon dioxide (greenhouse gases that are warming our planet), produce oxygen, prevent soil erosion, capture and reduce storm water runoff that can cause stream flooding, and provide habitat and winter cover for many wildlife species. Better yet, they keep local working farms alive and profitable. There are more than 12,000 Christmas tree farms in the United States and in 2009 Pennsylvania tree farmers had over $19.3 million dollars in sales, accounting for 7.8 % of the national market. Nationally over 100,000 people are employed full or part-time by the Christmas tree industry.
Once the holidays are over, 93% of real Christmas tree consumers recycle their tree in community recycling programs, their garden or backyard. Those trees become mulch, compost, or habitat for wildlife and fish (when placed in ponds).
Now compare that to artificial trees. The first artificial tree was made largely of aluminum and was manufactured in the United States, first in Chicago in 1958. Today, most artificial trees are made from PVC plastic with 85% of them being manufactured in China and shipped thousands of miles across the world to a retail store in the United States. Those artificial trees do not provide oxygen, soils stabilization, or wildlife habitat, although we might be able to recycle the plastic at some point. In 2011, Americans purchased 9.5 million artificial trees, helping China’s economy.
So this holiday, as we purchase many of our electronics, toys, and decorations that were manufactured in China or elsewhere, consider taking the family on an outdoor adventure to buy an American grown fresh cut tree from a local farm. It real does help our economy and our environment.
For more information about selecting and caring for your cut Christmas tree, visit http://extension.psu.edu/allegheny/news/spotlight/selection-care-of-cut-christmas-trees
Vincent Cotrone
Urban Forester
Penn State University
Once the holidays are over, 93% of real Christmas tree consumers recycle their tree in community recycling programs, their garden or backyard. Those trees become mulch, compost, or habitat for wildlife and fish (when placed in ponds).
Now compare that to artificial trees. The first artificial tree was made largely of aluminum and was manufactured in the United States, first in Chicago in 1958. Today, most artificial trees are made from PVC plastic with 85% of them being manufactured in China and shipped thousands of miles across the world to a retail store in the United States. Those artificial trees do not provide oxygen, soils stabilization, or wildlife habitat, although we might be able to recycle the plastic at some point. In 2011, Americans purchased 9.5 million artificial trees, helping China’s economy.
So this holiday, as we purchase many of our electronics, toys, and decorations that were manufactured in China or elsewhere, consider taking the family on an outdoor adventure to buy an American grown fresh cut tree from a local farm. It real does help our economy and our environment.
For more information about selecting and caring for your cut Christmas tree, visit http://extension.psu.edu/allegheny/news/spotlight/selection-care-of-cut-christmas-trees
Vincent Cotrone
Urban Forester
Penn State University
Thursday, February 23, 2012
Is that a Brush Pile or a Pile of Brush?
Do you enjoy seeing wildlife? Do you have lots of smaller diameter low-value trees on your property? If so, constructing brush piles is for you. They are a great way to increase numbers of many kinds of small game and non-game species. Here are some tips on making a long-lasting brush pile instead of a pile of brush.
Good locations include edges of fields and woods, fence corners, shallow gullies, near ponds and food strips. A brush pile in your yard can be small and tucked into a corner. Do not place them in the middle of a field, in standing water, or where there is severe erosion on a steep slope. Brush piles are flammable, so keep them away from buildings. Several medium-sized piles (10-15 feet wide and 5-8 feet high) are better than one large pile. Space them 300 feet apart or less.
Make a base with stumps and logs that are at least six inches in diameter. Lay them four to six inches apart. Stack the next layer at right angles to the first, log-cabin style and the next with smaller logs, again at right angles.
Pile smaller brush on top of the logs so the base is covered and the brush touches the ground. Make your top layers denser, working in even smaller branches. Allow openings into the base that are not covered by the brush on top.
Considering planting native vines to grow over your brush pile. They are attractive and their fruit will attract birds.
For additional instructions, methods and materials see the full article by David Scamardella, Service Forester, PA Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources, and Michael and Laura Jackson, PA Forest Stewards Volunteers. It is in the Winter 2012 issue of Forest Leaves, available at http://extension.psu.edu/private-forests/news/newsletters/forest-leaves/winter-2012/view. Or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Helpline at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Good locations include edges of fields and woods, fence corners, shallow gullies, near ponds and food strips. A brush pile in your yard can be small and tucked into a corner. Do not place them in the middle of a field, in standing water, or where there is severe erosion on a steep slope. Brush piles are flammable, so keep them away from buildings. Several medium-sized piles (10-15 feet wide and 5-8 feet high) are better than one large pile. Space them 300 feet apart or less.
Make a base with stumps and logs that are at least six inches in diameter. Lay them four to six inches apart. Stack the next layer at right angles to the first, log-cabin style and the next with smaller logs, again at right angles.
Pile smaller brush on top of the logs so the base is covered and the brush touches the ground. Make your top layers denser, working in even smaller branches. Allow openings into the base that are not covered by the brush on top.
Considering planting native vines to grow over your brush pile. They are attractive and their fruit will attract birds.
For additional instructions, methods and materials see the full article by David Scamardella, Service Forester, PA Dept. of Conservation and Natural Resources, and Michael and Laura Jackson, PA Forest Stewards Volunteers. It is in the Winter 2012 issue of Forest Leaves, available at http://extension.psu.edu/private-forests/news/newsletters/forest-leaves/winter-2012/view. Or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Helpline at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees and Shrubs
After last week’s storms the coming weeks would be a good time to assess rain and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ and select “Find a Tree Care Service” to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ and select “Find a Tree Care Service” to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Lawn Herbicide and Trees
Watch for Possible Broadleaf Lawn Herbicide Injury to Trees
Damage to trees due to broadleaf lawn herbicides is a rare event; but when it does occur, it can create a lot of anxiety and customer dissatisfaction. This year, damage has been observed on certain tree species (primarily Norway spruce and white pine) following spring applications of a new herbicide called Imprelis. Pete Landschoot, Professor of Turfgrass Science, recently provided an update on this situation. Here’s a brief summary of his report.
Effects on trees:
First, not all applications of Imprelis result in tree injury. The recently observed injury seems to be related to the soaking spring rains we experienced in April and May. We are not aware of any tree injury following fall applications.
In cases where injury did occur, symptoms to Norway spruce began as yellowing, curling, and browning of the current season’s growth. In some cases, injury does not progress much further than slight curling and browning of new growth; however, in other cases complete dieback is observed. In severe cases, the entire tree turns brown and begins to lose its needles. Trees of all ages have been affected to varying degrees. White pine injury appears as severe twisting and curling followed by needle drop of the new season’s growth. Because of the spiral pattern of the vascular system in many conifers, damage from herbicide uptake may even appear as a spiral on foliage.
What can be done about injured trees?
Since a number of factors can cause symptoms similar to Imprelis injury it’s important to make sure tree injury is a result of herbicide uptake. Call a qualified arborist or bring in samples to your local Penn State Extension office.
In cases where injury is clearly herbicide induced, do not fertilize trees for at least one growing season (excess growth can compound injury). If drought begins to set in, watering to alleviate stress may be useful on trees that received slight to moderate damage. Place a soaker hose on the soil near the trunk of injured Norway spruce trees that have low hanging branches. This allows slow irrigation of the soil directly under the tree, and reduces the risk of additional active ingredient being taken up by the tree. On trees with dieback, pruning should be delayed for up to a year to fully assess the extent of the damage, and to allow for recovery.
Penn State Cooperative Extension will provide updates as more information becomes available. To find the latest updates go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and search on the term Imprelis.
To read Dr. Landschoot’s full article go to http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/giec/news/2011/some-observations-on-imprelis-injury-to-trees Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Damage to trees due to broadleaf lawn herbicides is a rare event; but when it does occur, it can create a lot of anxiety and customer dissatisfaction. This year, damage has been observed on certain tree species (primarily Norway spruce and white pine) following spring applications of a new herbicide called Imprelis. Pete Landschoot, Professor of Turfgrass Science, recently provided an update on this situation. Here’s a brief summary of his report.
Effects on trees:
First, not all applications of Imprelis result in tree injury. The recently observed injury seems to be related to the soaking spring rains we experienced in April and May. We are not aware of any tree injury following fall applications.
In cases where injury did occur, symptoms to Norway spruce began as yellowing, curling, and browning of the current season’s growth. In some cases, injury does not progress much further than slight curling and browning of new growth; however, in other cases complete dieback is observed. In severe cases, the entire tree turns brown and begins to lose its needles. Trees of all ages have been affected to varying degrees. White pine injury appears as severe twisting and curling followed by needle drop of the new season’s growth. Because of the spiral pattern of the vascular system in many conifers, damage from herbicide uptake may even appear as a spiral on foliage.
What can be done about injured trees?
Since a number of factors can cause symptoms similar to Imprelis injury it’s important to make sure tree injury is a result of herbicide uptake. Call a qualified arborist or bring in samples to your local Penn State Extension office.
In cases where injury is clearly herbicide induced, do not fertilize trees for at least one growing season (excess growth can compound injury). If drought begins to set in, watering to alleviate stress may be useful on trees that received slight to moderate damage. Place a soaker hose on the soil near the trunk of injured Norway spruce trees that have low hanging branches. This allows slow irrigation of the soil directly under the tree, and reduces the risk of additional active ingredient being taken up by the tree. On trees with dieback, pruning should be delayed for up to a year to fully assess the extent of the damage, and to allow for recovery.
Penn State Cooperative Extension will provide updates as more information becomes available. To find the latest updates go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and search on the term Imprelis.
To read Dr. Landschoot’s full article go to http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/giec/news/2011/some-observations-on-imprelis-injury-to-trees Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Carpenter Ants
With the level of rain exceeding normal limits and the limits of a gardener’s patience, comes concerns about the vitality of the home landscape. Too much water brings disease and decay which in turn may attract pests, such as the black carpenter ant.
In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.
They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.
The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.
The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.
Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.
The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.
To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.
If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.
For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.
They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.
The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.
The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.
Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.
The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.
To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.
If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.
For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Don't Bury Your Tree
In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Save your trees, your back and your wallet from mulch volcanoes!
In my March 20th article I wrote about early spring mulching tasks to do that would help your garden grow. Today I want to talk a bit about a popular mulching practice NOT to do - those huge “mulch volcanoes” that you see around trees. They are a waste of money and harmful to trees. But you ask – I see them around trees maintained by professional landscapers?! Yes, that’s true, and landscapers should know better. Intrigued? … please read on! Mounds of mulch around tree trunks encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make mulch volcanoes that can only harm your trees, not help them. Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the “root flare” is the zone where the tree trunk widens out a bit as it turns into the root system and the flare should be visible right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted (or has sunk) too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees. Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?
- Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
- Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree (where the branches farthest from the trunk end). The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
- Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
- Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.
For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, April 4, 2011
Saturday School on 4/16: 'Out On A Limb' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Friday, February 25, 2011
Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees & Shrubs
Last week we discussed the various types of plant damage that can happen during the winter. After all this winter’s storms, the coming weeks would be a good time to assess ice, snow and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.
2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Dead Trees Bring Life
If a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound? This is a question asked for ages, and no matter the philosophical answers debated, a fallen tree may have uses no one sees. Trees have countless uses for humans. They offer shade, filter the air, and add value and beauty to the home landscape. Trees stabilize the soil and even produce food for us. When a tree is cut, it can be transformed into fuel, made into furniture, form the structure of our homes, and without trees, a newspaper could not be written, produced, or read.
Dead trees have a useful and special value, not for us but for wildlife. Dead parts of live trees, which are called 'snags', and fallen trees, referred to as 'logs' become important resources in nature. They become food and shelter for a number of species. As a tree decomposes, it recycles itself into the soil. The process enriches the soil and makes conditions favorable for the next generation of seedlings.
Logs become shelter for many layers of life. Insects, salamanders, mice and other small creatures seek refuge there. Other woodland life feed off them. Some grouse have been known to raise generations on the same logs. As the wood decays, it increases the mushroom population. During the harsh winter months, mushrooms are an important food source for birds, squirrel, and deer.
Snags, or standing dead trees, offer a nesting place for thirty-five species of birds. Wood ducks look for tree cavities near water. Barn owls look for nesting sites near large fields. Chickadees, sapsuckers, and woodpeckers make beneficial use of snags. As insects invade a dead tree, they attract turtles, shrews, salamanders, and bats among others, to sustain their life. One bat can consume thousands of mosquitoes while we slumber away.
While it may not always be feasible to keep dead trees on your property, some consideration should be given to sustaining the life we don’t see. On a smaller scale, brush piles, or even a post-season live Christmas tree set outside can create a haven for wildlife. Just because we don’t hear a sound doesn’t mean sounds are not being made.
For more information on this topic, The Penn State Master Gardeners have the publication 'Dead Wood for Wildlife'. Please contact us at 570-963-9642 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request your free copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Dead trees have a useful and special value, not for us but for wildlife. Dead parts of live trees, which are called 'snags', and fallen trees, referred to as 'logs' become important resources in nature. They become food and shelter for a number of species. As a tree decomposes, it recycles itself into the soil. The process enriches the soil and makes conditions favorable for the next generation of seedlings.
Logs become shelter for many layers of life. Insects, salamanders, mice and other small creatures seek refuge there. Other woodland life feed off them. Some grouse have been known to raise generations on the same logs. As the wood decays, it increases the mushroom population. During the harsh winter months, mushrooms are an important food source for birds, squirrel, and deer.
Snags, or standing dead trees, offer a nesting place for thirty-five species of birds. Wood ducks look for tree cavities near water. Barn owls look for nesting sites near large fields. Chickadees, sapsuckers, and woodpeckers make beneficial use of snags. As insects invade a dead tree, they attract turtles, shrews, salamanders, and bats among others, to sustain their life. One bat can consume thousands of mosquitoes while we slumber away.
While it may not always be feasible to keep dead trees on your property, some consideration should be given to sustaining the life we don’t see. On a smaller scale, brush piles, or even a post-season live Christmas tree set outside can create a haven for wildlife. Just because we don’t hear a sound doesn’t mean sounds are not being made.
For more information on this topic, The Penn State Master Gardeners have the publication 'Dead Wood for Wildlife'. Please contact us at 570-963-9642 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request your free copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Caring for a Real Christmas Tree
Last week we talked about selecting a fresh Christmas tree; here are some tips to help you keep it fresh through the holiday season. For best results, follow these tips from the time you purchase your tree until you remove it from your home.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
- Use a tree stand that holds 1 quart of water per inch of stem diameter and keep the water level above base of tree at all times. The temperature of the water used to fill the stand is not important.
- Tree trunk too wide for the tree stand? Buy a larger stand, do NOT whittle the trunk!
- Storing a tree for a few days? Put trunk in water and store in a cool, shaded and protected area.
- More than 12 hours since harvest? Cut off about ¼” from the base to improve water uptake. Do not angle or v-cut.
- Keep trees away from sources of heat (direct sunlight, heat vents, etc.) and keep the room cool.
- It is NOT worth it to: drill holes in the base, use “I-V” type devices, apply anti-transpirants or add anything to the water in the stand.
- Proper tree care and watering reduces fire hazards more than spraying trees with flame retardants.
- Run your fingers across the needles. If they break easily or fall off in your hand, the tree is dry and should be removed from the house.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Choosing a Christmas Tree
Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you:
In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.
Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.
These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive, preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.
Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir. The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.
- Balsam Fir: soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention.
- Colorado Blue Spruce: stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.
- Douglas Fir: widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.
- Scotch Pine: one of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.
- White Pine: native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.
- Fraser Fir: closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years.
Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Emerald Ash Borer Moving toward NE PA
Forty-three counties are now under a quarantine intended to prevent the spread of the invasive, tree-killing Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). The PA Dept. of Agriculture’s quarantine area stretches from the Ohio border to Columbia, Lycoming, Northumberland, and Tioga counties in the northern half of the state and Cumberland, Franklin, and Perry farther south. To our east, the pest is in New York’s Hudson River Valley. Emerald Ash Borer beetles can kill an ash tree within three years and so they pose a serious threat to Pennsylvania’s nation-leading hardwoods industry, which contributes nearly $25 billion to the state’s economy.
We all are asked not to move ash nursery, green lumber, and any other ash material, including logs, stumps, roots and branches, from the quarantine area. Because it is difficult to distinguish between species of hardwood firewood, all hardwood firewood and wood chips—including ash, oak, maple and hickory—are considered quarantined. Here are some simple every day ways that you can help protect our urban, suburban, and forested areas:
People who suspect they have seen Emerald Ash Borer should call the department’s toll-free pest hotline at 1-866-253-7189. For more information, visit Penn State’s EAB website at http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer; the National EAB website at http://www.emeraldashborer.info/; or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
We all are asked not to move ash nursery, green lumber, and any other ash material, including logs, stumps, roots and branches, from the quarantine area. Because it is difficult to distinguish between species of hardwood firewood, all hardwood firewood and wood chips—including ash, oak, maple and hickory—are considered quarantined. Here are some simple every day ways that you can help protect our urban, suburban, and forested areas:
- Buy and burn only locally cut firewood (within 50 miles of its source).
- Already have firewood from another area? BURN IT. Do not leave it. Do not take it with you.
- Keep an eye out for EAB in your area.
People who suspect they have seen Emerald Ash Borer should call the department’s toll-free pest hotline at 1-866-253-7189. For more information, visit Penn State’s EAB website at http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer; the National EAB website at http://www.emeraldashborer.info/; or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, August 23, 2010
Trees!
Shade on a hot summer day, solace found resting underneath a favorite spot, strength and stature added to our landscape, or the refuge they provide, are all tangible benefits of trees. We often become attached or even rooted to a tree because they are symbols and memorials as they slowly live their long lives next to ours.
Trees also represent a substantial investment in the home landscape. Proper inspection, mulching, and providing fertilization of essential elements will pay dividends in the years to come. Conversely, a poorly kept tree becomes a liability, harboring diseases, stability issues, and a haven for insects.
The Penn State Master Gardeners can assist you maintaining your trees. We have several publications you may find helpful. "Preserving Trees" and "A Guide for Selecting Trees" will help you choose the right ones for you. "Pruning Landscape Trees" and "Think Before You Top" will guide you as you trim. "Common Diseases" gives tips on preventing as well as managing affected trees. We also have publications and fact sheets on the varied insects that feed on trees.
For more information on this or other home horticulture issues, please call the Penn State Master Gardener helpline at 570-963-8642.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Trees also represent a substantial investment in the home landscape. Proper inspection, mulching, and providing fertilization of essential elements will pay dividends in the years to come. Conversely, a poorly kept tree becomes a liability, harboring diseases, stability issues, and a haven for insects.
The Penn State Master Gardeners can assist you maintaining your trees. We have several publications you may find helpful. "Preserving Trees" and "A Guide for Selecting Trees" will help you choose the right ones for you. "Pruning Landscape Trees" and "Think Before You Top" will guide you as you trim. "Common Diseases" gives tips on preventing as well as managing affected trees. We also have publications and fact sheets on the varied insects that feed on trees.
For more information on this or other home horticulture issues, please call the Penn State Master Gardener helpline at 570-963-8642.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Uninvited Guests: Squirrels
With winter fading away (we hope!) now is a good time to implement some of the squirrel management methods described below so you will be ready for next winter … and deal with any current squirrel issues!
During the cold winter months, wildlife such as tree squirrels sometimes find their way into buildings and homes through loose siding or ventilation screens, looking for a place to nest. Once inside, they can damage walls, insulation, and tendency to chew. In most cases, these squirrels can be managed using IPM tactics that are safe and effective.
Step 1 Pest Identification
The first step in wildlife pest management is identifying what type of squirrel is causing damage to your property. The eastern gray squirrel can range in color from black to silver with a white belly. They are 16 to 24 inches in length. Gray squirrels can be found in any area that has nuts and seeds, including urban backyards. Flying squirrels are smaller than other tree squirrels, between 8 and 10 inches in length. They vary in color from gray to brown, and have broad webs of skin connecting the fore and hind legs at the wrists and a flattened tail that allows them to glide from tree to tree. Squirrels can be found anywhere there is an ample supply of nuts and seeds.
Step 2 Prevention
There are many ways to prevent squirrel damage:
- Make your property less hospitable to wildlife pests by keeping the property clean and maintained.
- Trim trees and limbs to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs.
- Exclude squirrels from inside buildings by using caulking or mesh to seal up holes where small animals could gain entry.
- Install fences around plants, trees and gardens to reduce their source of food.
Place birdfeeders 15 to 30 feet from buildings. - Consider removing birdfeeders if squirrels are a problem.
Step 3 Controlling Squirrels Safely
There are very few repellants currently available for use on squirrels and have a very limited success rate. In addition, there are no fumigants or toxicants federally registered for use on squirrels. Try these IPM methods instead:
- Frightening – Frighten squirrels by using loud noises or lights in attics or closets where they are nesting.
- Trapping – Use wire-cage and box traps to capture squirrels alive, baiting the traps with orange or apple slices, walnuts and pecans removed from the shell, or peanut butter. Check the traps twice a day and release the squirrel once exclusion tactics are used to secure the building.
For more information on squirrels and other wildlife pests, go the PA IPM Program Problem Solver at http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/441.htm. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Pruning Peach Trees
The best time to prune peach trees is the middle of April. Pruning earlier, before bud swell, makes the tree susceptible to damage from the disease cystospora canker. A pruned peach tree is less susceptible to the disease brown rot. Brown rot is that brown fuzzy disease that grows on peach fruit as it ripens.
A peach tree should have 3 or 4 main limbs called scaffolds. The tree should have a bowl shaped appearance when pruning is complete. Prune annually to ensure uniform growth and fruit production. Always use sharp, clean pruners.
First, remove broken or diseased branches. Second, cut out vigorous upright shoots that developed on the inside of the main limbs. This is referred to as open center pruning. Finally, once the 3 or 4 main scaffolds have developed, allow secondary branches to develop off of the main scaffolds. Secondary branches should be spaced about 8” apart. Continue to keep upright shoots from developing on the inside of the scaffold limbs. As the tree matures, head back or cut off the ends of secondary branches to a side shoot so new fruiting wood is encouraged to develop. Remove all pruned wood and decayed fruit from around the tree.
For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
A peach tree should have 3 or 4 main limbs called scaffolds. The tree should have a bowl shaped appearance when pruning is complete. Prune annually to ensure uniform growth and fruit production. Always use sharp, clean pruners.
First, remove broken or diseased branches. Second, cut out vigorous upright shoots that developed on the inside of the main limbs. This is referred to as open center pruning. Finally, once the 3 or 4 main scaffolds have developed, allow secondary branches to develop off of the main scaffolds. Secondary branches should be spaced about 8” apart. Continue to keep upright shoots from developing on the inside of the scaffold limbs. As the tree matures, head back or cut off the ends of secondary branches to a side shoot so new fruiting wood is encouraged to develop. Remove all pruned wood and decayed fruit from around the tree.
For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
Save Your Trees, Your Back and Your Wallet From Mulch Volcanoes!
Spring time is right around the corner so it must be time to start piling on the mulch around our trees … right? Wrong! Mounds of mulch around the trunk encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. But, you say, professional landscapers do it so it must be beneficial! Sorry, not true. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make “mulch volcanoes” that can only harm your trees, not help them.
Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the root flare is the zone where the tree trunk turns into the root system and the flare should be right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees.
Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?
- Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
- Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree. The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
- Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
- Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.
For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org. Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Winter-Damaged Trees
Snow and wind from recent winter storms can leave trees with broken limbs. So what do you do now? First ask yourself two questions:
Question 1. Is the tree worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it is a tree with brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. If you can see that the natural shape of the tree will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it. According to Penn State’s forest stewardship program a good way to judge whether a tree will survive storm damage is to look at the upper branches.
- If less than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a good chance of survival even though its growth may slow down while it recovers.
- If between 50 percent and 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree may survive. However, its wounds may provide entryways later for damaging insects and diseases, especially if large tops or large lower branches break, or if extensive areas of bark tear.
- If more than 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a low chance of survival.
Not sure if the tree is worth saving? Ask a professional (see below).
Question 2. Should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, you would be advised to seek out a professional. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.patrees.org/. This web site has lots of great tree related resources as well as a link to find a certified arborist by zip code (select “Finding an Arborist” on the left panel). Make sure the arborist carries proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Pruning Fruit Trees
Late February and March are the best times to prune apple trees in Northeastern Pennsylvania. Prune peach trees in early April. Here are some basic rules that will help produce a healthy tree and quality apples.
•Remove all dead or diseased wood.
•Remove limbs that cross over and rub other limbs.
•Remove shoots that grow straight up.
•Remove low growing branches that will touch the ground when they bend with the weight of fruit.
•Reduce the density of the tree by removing shoots and branches at their base to open the tree up to allow sunlight and air movement in. The more light a branch gets the more fruit it will produce.
•Reduce the number of fruit spurs on spur type trees that have a history of setting too much fruit.
•Keep the top of the tree from overgrowing and overshadowing the lower branches. This can be accomplished by cutting the leader back to a smaller side shoot.
If you had fire blight in your tree last year, like I did, prune when the temperature is below 45 degrees to prevent spreading the blight. Remove the limb at least 8” below the infected area.
For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
•Remove all dead or diseased wood.
•Remove limbs that cross over and rub other limbs.
•Remove shoots that grow straight up.
•Remove low growing branches that will touch the ground when they bend with the weight of fruit.
•Reduce the density of the tree by removing shoots and branches at their base to open the tree up to allow sunlight and air movement in. The more light a branch gets the more fruit it will produce.
•Reduce the number of fruit spurs on spur type trees that have a history of setting too much fruit.
•Keep the top of the tree from overgrowing and overshadowing the lower branches. This can be accomplished by cutting the leader back to a smaller side shoot.
If you had fire blight in your tree last year, like I did, prune when the temperature is below 45 degrees to prevent spreading the blight. Remove the limb at least 8” below the infected area.
For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.
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