Winter: A Great Time to Examine Your Trees and Prune Them

Even though the temperature is below freezing and our landscapes look stark and lifeless, it is the perfect time to walk your property and evaluate your trees branch structure while the leaves are off the tree and not blocking your view to the interior of the canopy.  When examining the leafless canopy, look for broken, damaged and dead branches, decay cavities, rubbing and crossing branches, and weakly attached branches with included bark that form a “V” type union.  It might seem difficult at first, but soon you will begin to see branches that don’t have buds or the bark is sloughing off, which are pretty good signs that the branch is dead.  Following some of the recent storms, including hurricane Sandy, there might be broken branches that are still hanging in the tree that should be removed before they fall out and cause damage.  Look for splits or cracks in branches and cavities in the trunk or large branches.

Co-dominant stems are formed when two branches that are about the same diameter come together to form a tight V shaped union.  Over time these two stems will get larger in diameter, applying pressure to each other until one stem breaks out, usually in a storm or high wind event.  These tight V unions are not as strong as smaller branches that are attached with something called a branch collar.  These branches tend to be growing at a 45 degree angle to the trunk and are tightly held in place by branch collars, formed by trunk wood.  It is best to remove one of the co-dominant stems when the tree is young or the branch is small.  

Once you evaluated your trees in the winter, you might decide they need to be pruned, either by a professional arborist or yourself, as long as you can do that safely (never climb a tree unless you have been trained to do this work and are using ropes and safety equipment).  Winter is a good time to prune because we can see branch structure, insects and diseases are not present, and the tree will devote some of its stored energy into closing the pruning wounds in the spring as it begins to grow.  Some worry about species that “bleed” when pruned in the winter, but it is only sap flowing from species such as maple, birch, beech and elm and it does not harm the tree.
 
Winter is also a good time to have an arborist evaluate and prune your trees because it is their slower season.  Who knows, you might even get a better price during the winter months.  Just make sure you find someone who is knowledgeable, like an ISA Certified Arborist, and will not “top”, “over thin”, or damage your tree.   For more information about tree pruning and tree care, visit www.patrees.org


Vincent Cotrone
Penn State Extension Urban Forester
& ISA Certified Arborist

Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees & Shrubs

Last week we discussed the various types of plant damage that can happen during the winter. After all this winter’s storms, the coming weeks would be a good time to assess ice, snow and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.

1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.

2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Winter Injury

Phil made his predication a couple weeks ago that we will have an early spring, and it seems that so far the indications are true. We have had a string of warmer weather. The days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger. As much as most of us would like this season to be over, the pattern is that this is just a tease. As tough as these long winters are on us, it is much rougher on the home landscape.

Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Trees!

Shade on a hot summer day, solace found resting underneath a favorite spot, strength and stature added to our landscape, or the refuge they provide, are all tangible benefits of trees. We often become attached or even rooted to a tree because they are symbols and memorials as they slowly live their long lives next to ours.

Trees also represent a substantial investment in the home landscape. Proper inspection, mulching, and providing fertilization of essential elements will pay dividends in the years to come. Conversely, a poorly kept tree becomes a liability, harboring diseases, stability issues, and a haven for insects.

The Penn State Master Gardeners can assist you maintaining your trees. We have several publications you may find helpful. "Preserving Trees" and "A Guide for Selecting Trees" will help you choose the right ones for you. "Pruning Landscape Trees" and "Think Before You Top" will guide you as you trim. "Common Diseases" gives tips on preventing as well as managing affected trees. We also have publications and fact sheets on the varied insects that feed on trees.

For more information on this or other home horticulture issues, please call the Penn State Master Gardener helpline at 570-963-8642.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Uninvited Guests: Squirrels

With winter fading away (we hope!) now is a good time to implement some of the squirrel management methods described below so you will be ready for next winter … and deal with any current squirrel issues!

During the cold winter months, wildlife such as tree squirrels sometimes find their way into buildings and homes through loose siding or ventilation screens, looking for a place to nest. Once inside, they can damage walls, insulation, and tendency to chew. In most cases, these squirrels can be managed using IPM tactics that are safe and effective.

Step 1 Pest Identification
The first step in wildlife pest management is identifying what type of squirrel is causing damage to your property. The eastern gray squirrel can range in color from black to silver with a white belly. They are 16 to 24 inches in length. Gray squirrels can be found in any area that has nuts and seeds, including urban backyards. Flying squirrels are smaller than other tree squirrels, between 8 and 10 inches in length. They vary in color from gray to brown, and have broad webs of skin connecting the fore and hind legs at the wrists and a flattened tail that allows them to glide from tree to tree. Squirrels can be found anywhere there is an ample supply of nuts and seeds.

Step 2 Prevention
There are many ways to prevent squirrel damage:

• Make your property less hospitable to wildlife pests by keeping the property clean and maintained.
• Trim trees and limbs to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs.
• Exclude squirrels from inside buildings by using caulking or mesh to seal up holes where small animals could gain entry.
• Install fences around plants, trees and gardens to reduce their source of food.
  Place birdfeeders 15 to 30 feet from buildings.
• Consider removing birdfeeders if squirrels are a problem.
  

Step 3 Controlling Squirrels Safely
There are very few repellants currently available for use on squirrels and have a very limited success rate. In addition, there are no fumigants or toxicants federally registered for use on squirrels. Try these IPM methods instead:

• Frightening – Frighten squirrels by using loud noises or lights in attics or closets where they are nesting.
• Trapping – Use wire-cage and box traps to capture squirrels alive, baiting the traps with orange or apple slices, walnuts and pecans removed from the shell, or peanut butter. Check the traps twice a day and release the squirrel once exclusion tactics are used to secure the building.

For more information on squirrels and other wildlife pests, go the PA IPM Program Problem Solver at http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/441.htm. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Pruning Peach Trees

The best time to prune peach trees is the middle of April. Pruning earlier, before bud swell, makes the tree susceptible to damage from the disease cystospora canker. A pruned peach tree is less susceptible to the disease brown rot. Brown rot is that brown fuzzy disease that grows on peach fruit as it ripens.

A peach tree should have 3 or 4 main limbs called scaffolds. The tree should have a bowl shaped appearance when pruning is complete. Prune annually to ensure uniform growth and fruit production. Always use sharp, clean pruners.

First, remove broken or diseased branches. Second, cut out vigorous upright shoots that developed on the inside of the main limbs. This is referred to as open center pruning. Finally, once the 3 or 4 main scaffolds have developed, allow secondary branches to develop off of the main scaffolds. Secondary branches should be spaced about 8” apart. Continue to keep upright shoots from developing on the inside of the scaffold limbs. As the tree matures, head back or cut off the ends of secondary branches to a side shoot so new fruiting wood is encouraged to develop. Remove all pruned wood and decayed fruit from around the tree.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Blueberries!

You’ve heard that blueberries are good for you, have you considered growing your own? It is not hard. Some of the varieties that have done well in our area are Patriot, Sunrise, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Chandler and Aurora. Blueberries are easy to grow if you do the proper soil preparation. Blueberries grow in soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.0. It is advised to get a soil test a year before you plant. Adjust the soil pH a year before you plant. When planting, mix peat moss in with the soil (50/50 mixture) you are filling in around the plant. Place about 3” of mulch around each plant. Replenish the mulch each spring as needed. No fertilizer is needed the first year. Apply fertilizer each May starting the second year. Remove all blossoms the first year and half of the blossoms the second year. This allows the plant to establish itself.

When the plants are around 5 years old you will need to prune out the largest canes. A rule of thumb is to remove one large old cane for every 6 canes the plant contains. If the plant has 12 canes, prune out the two oldest. Prune in March or April.

Be prepared to protect the fruit from birds. Blueberries will turn blue before their flavor is fully developed. Be patient. Let the fruit fully ripen before harvest.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu



John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Winter-Damaged Trees

Snow and wind from recent winter storms can leave trees with broken limbs. So what do you do now? First ask yourself two questions:

Question 1. Is the tree worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it is a tree with brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. If you can see that the natural shape of the tree will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it. According to Penn State’s forest stewardship program a good way to judge whether a tree will survive storm damage is to look at the upper branches.

• If less than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a good chance of survival even though its growth may slow down while it recovers.
• If between 50 percent and 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree may survive. However, its wounds may provide entryways later for damaging insects and diseases, especially if large tops or large lower branches break, or if extensive areas of bark tear.
• If more than 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a low chance of survival.
  

Not sure if the tree is worth saving? Ask a professional (see below).

Question 2. Should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, you would be advised to seek out a professional. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.patrees.org/. This web site has lots of great tree related resources as well as a link to find a certified arborist by zip code (select “Finding an Arborist” on the left panel). Make sure the arborist carries proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Pruning Fruit Trees

Late February and March are the best times to prune apple trees in Northeastern Pennsylvania. Prune peach trees in early April. Here are some basic rules that will help produce a healthy tree and quality apples.

•Remove all dead or diseased wood.
•Remove limbs that cross over and rub other limbs.
•Remove shoots that grow straight up.
•Remove low growing branches that will touch the ground when they bend with the weight of fruit.
•Reduce the density of the tree by removing shoots and branches at their base to open the tree up to allow sunlight and air movement in. The more light a branch gets the more fruit it will produce.
•Reduce the number of fruit spurs on spur type trees that have a history of setting too much fruit.
•Keep the top of the tree from overgrowing and overshadowing the lower branches. This can be accomplished by cutting the leader back to a smaller side shoot.

If you had fire blight in your tree last year, like I did, prune when the temperature is below 45 degrees to prevent spreading the blight. Remove the limb at least 8” below the infected area.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

New Year Resolutions for the Garden

Looking for a different New Year's resolution this year? How about choosing from some that will help your garden and landscape grow better and healthier? Pick one or more from the list below, courtesy of Jeff Rugg, University of Illinois Extension unit horticulture educator. Here goes ...

I resolve to:
• Add more mulch to my flower beds where it will decrease weeds, saving me money on weed killers and protecting the environment from useless applications.
• Remove the mulch from around the trunks of my trees. Mulch piled on a tree trunk doesn't help the tree, but kills it.
• Save time and money by pruning my trees and shrubs in their natural shapes, and NOT topping them.
• Find out what disease or insect is affecting my plant before I treat my yard with incorrect and ineffective poisons. Saying 'It can't hurt' isn't really true.
• Mow my grass at a higher height. The longer leaves support a better root system, so the grass needs less water and fights weeds better.
• Start a compost pile and add to it regularly so that I don't waste money buying compost to add to my garden.
• Take my power tools and lawnmower to the appropriate outlet for servicing and sharpening. Properly adjusted tools pollute less and sharp tools work better, making them safer.
• Order more catalogs from www.mailordergardening.com, as it is the most comprehensive list of gardening catalogs.
• And most importantly, enjoy my garden by eating outside more often, strolling through the yard to smell the flowers without pulling any weeds, and having at least one party with family and friends so they can enjoy the garden too.

If you have any gardening questions please call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.