Harvesting Apples

Did you know apples are grown in all fifty states?  Did you know the pilgrims planted the first apple trees in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the crabapple is the only apple native to North America?  Did you know apples were exported from America as early as 1768?  Did you know Pennsylvania produces only four per cent of those grown, Washington State is tops, with fifty-eight per cent?  Did you know the yearly, per capita apple consumption is twenty one pounds, compared with Europeans at forty-six?  Did you know apple picking season is under way?  Whether you are a backyard orchardist or will make a fun journey to pick your own, here is some information to help you pick quality apples.

In our region, some varieties, like the Yellow Transparent, ripen early, usually mid-July.  For the most part, the best selection starts around Labor Day through October.  It is important to know when a particular apple is generally ready to pick.  Most nursery catalogs and Extension guides can give you an idea, but yearly variations in weather, temperature, and sunlight make dates an estimate.  Mature fruit is different than ripe fruit.  Maturity means that the apple is finished developing.  Ripe means it is at its peak for flavor and texture.  We have all mistakenly bitten into a beautiful looking apple only to find it is green, hard, and sour.  For those who want to hold apples in storage, mature, but not fully ripe fruit is goal.  They will maintain their taste and texture better.  For eating, cooking, and baking, ripe fruit is best.  It is far from an exact science, but here are some tips to help guide your harvest:

Know the kind of apple.  Macintosh are ready earlier than a Red Delicious.  So be aware of the general harvest times.  Each variety of apple has specific characteristics, size, skin color, texture and taste.

Look at the skin color.  Immature apples are green.  If a specific apple by nature is mostly red, and still green, you know they aren’t ready.  Look at the ground color, which is the indented area by the stem.  The lighter yellow-green color, the chances are the apple is mature.  This does not work on all red apples.  Generally, and more so on later varieties, the seed coat will change to a dark brown.  Firm, but not hard flesh is another indicator of readiness.  There is a subjective test of taste.  When an apple is ready, there will be a pronounced fullness in flavor and sweetness.

Once an apple is ready, it still has to be picked and stored.  Most of all though, it has to be enjoyed.  For more information on picking and storing, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publication packet “Harvesting Apples.”  Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension - Lackawanna County

Dahlias: To Dig or Not to Dig

Dahlias are considered tender perennials and as such they need to be protected from the winter cold. Many tender perennials survive very well left in the ground when provided with a thick layer of insulation from straw, leaves or mulch. Others need to be removed from the ground and stored in a cool dry area.In most northern climates, Dahlias would fall into the group of those plants that need to be removed. Left in the soil they are susceptible to excess moisture and may rot or freeze. Wait to dig until after a killing frost. This allows the plant to produce the maximum amount of food stored in this “tuber” (it actually is a tuberous root) for beautiful growth the following year. Cut the tops back to a few inches. Carefully lift out of the soil without damaging the tubers.

Store in a cool location with temperatures around 50 degrees F. Storing in coarse vermiculite will help to maintain enough moisture to prevent the tubers from shriveling but not enough to cause them to rot.

You can find this article (by Mary Conklin) and other useful gardening articles in the Oct-Dec, 2011 issue of Bloomin ‘n News at http://extension.psu.edu/montgomery/programs/master-gardener.

Curious about the differences among tubers, tuberous roots, bulbs, rhizomes, and corms? Then visit http://www.pcmg-texas.org/BulbsCormsTubers.pdf. For other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Gourds

The rush of the first holiday of the season is over. Halloween is gone and all of the candy is too. The pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns are now part of the compost pile. However, with Thanksgiving a few weeks away, most people keep gourds around as decorations. They are ideal color for the whole fall season, as they do not rot like pumpkins. Also you may want to consider drying, or more precisely curing gourds to make them last even longer.

Curing gourds is a two-step process which may take 1 to 6 months depending on the type and size of the gourd. Surface drying is the first step in the curing process, and takes approximately one week. During this time, the skin hardens and the exterior color of the gourd is set. Place clean, dry fruit in a dark, well-ventilated area. Arrange gourds in a single layer and make certain that the fruits do not touch each other. A cooling rack will allow air circulation around the gourds. Check gourds daily and discard fruit that show signs of decay or mold and any that develop soft spots.

Internal drying is the second step in curing and takes a minimum of four weeks. Keep the gourds in shallow containers in a dark, warm, well-ventilated area. If any mold appears on the outside skin, gourds can be wiped clean and allowed to continue drying. However, any gourds that become decayed, shriveled or misshapen should be discarded. Periodically turn the fruit to discourage shriveling and promote even curing. Providing warmth during the internal curing process will accelerate drying and discourage decay. Adequate curing is achieved when the gourd becomes light in weight and the seeds can be heard rattling inside.

Once well cured, gourds may be waxed, shellacked or painted. A high-grade transparent furniture or floor wax is preferred to shellac or varnish because the latter may change the natural color. Dried gourds can be used for bird houses, bowls and planters. Decorating them with non-toxic craft paints is a great kid’s project. With some imagination, cured gourds can be painted for any holiday.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publication ‘Growing and Curing Gourds in the Home Garden’, for a copy, contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Fall Color Choices

Set aside some time now to enjoy the seasonal changes. Take a break from fall clean up, and make a few colorful changes to your home landscape. While your garden is almost done and things are slowing down, you can add a new look around your home by choosing some of the following for some easy and instant colorful changes.

Ornamental kale: easy care and can last well into the winter if planted in the ground. Plus it is native to North America, easy to grow and can reach eighteen inches in height. It likes well drained soil and thrives in temperatures below fifty degrees. Kale has lacey and feathery leaves ranging in color from green to red to white depending on the variety. Ornamental cabbage has similar traits but its leaves are wavy edged, and form rosettes with pink, purple, red, or white centers.

Fall pansies have gained popularity over the years. They add a punch of color to the earth tones of the rest of the fall landscape. They are easy to find at your local garden center. Choose compact plants with deep green foliage. Plant in well-drained, rich soil in a sunny to partly-shady location. Deadhead blossoms to extend flowering. These cool-weather lovers can actually make it through frosts and even single-digit temperatures. Some may surprise you with their return in the spring.

Chrysanthemums are the popular choice for fall color. They come in a variety of single and bi-colored blooms, and there are as many as thirteen different kinds of flowers- cushion, daisy, and pom-pom are common. Mums are a wise choice for instant color. Most come in decorative containers. Just take them home and display. Mums are disease and pest resistant, and they make a big statement with little effort. For the adventurous mums can be planted in the ground or left in their containers and stored in a garage for planting in the spring.

Pumpkins, you can pick your own, or find plenty at a road side stand, garden center or even the grocery store. It would not be fall without pumpkins, cider, and hayrides. Choose one with a firm skin with no soft spots and uniform, deep orange color. A nice firm green stem makes a pumpkin really stand out. Make sure it has a flat bottom so it can sit up by itself. Wait to carve it, cut pumpkins last only a short time. Better yet, pick some up for decoration now and go later for your jack-o-lanterns, giving you an excuse for another fun day at a local pumpkin patch.

For more information on any home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Mice Control

The weather outside is getting colder, and pests like house mice are looking for a warm place with food and water to hole up for the winter. Guess what? Your house may be looking like a five-star resort to these unwanted house guests. They may look cute on TV or the comic strip but mice can carry Salmonella, a bacteria that causes food poisoning. Mice can also transmit other nasty parasites such as ringworm, mites, tapeworms, and ticks. In addition, they urinate over several thousand times a day.

You are likely to spot them in the fall when they are looking for the things mice need to survive, such as food, water and shelter. They can wiggle their way into the tiniest of openings around windows, doors, roofs, piping, and air ducts. Any hole you can stick a pencil in is an entry way for a mouse.

So to deter these unwanted guests here are some tips:

• Make sure they are mice and from where they are entering. Look for holes in walls that are ringed with a dirty, oily rubbing both inside and outside your home.
• Make sure they don’t have what they need. Mice are looking for shelter but also food and water. Inside, clean up food scraps and store foods appropriately to prevent easy access to food. All pet foods should be stored off the floor and in sealed hard containers with tight-fitting lids. Outside, dead plantings and grass offer protection as mice try to find a way inside. Seal up small holes and cracks. Keep in mind mice can jump up twelve inches and can run along wires.
• Make sure they are trapped. It is not recommended to use baits as the rodents consume this poison and can die inside a wall or other hidden areas. Wooden traps, although unsightly are highly effective. Set a group of them, and if nothing is found, move to another location.
• Make sure they are removed quickly and the area is sanitized. Always wear rubber gloves, and spray the area, the droppings, and even the rodent with a bleach/water solution. Dispose of everything in a sealed plastic bag.

For more information on mice control or any other home pest, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570)963-6842.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Ladybugs!

By the looks of things right now, you would think polka dots are all the rage. Or maybe contemplate a game of connect the dots, and the chain would go on and on. Orange and black are the colors of the season anyway but most homeowners don’t want that palette crawling around their house. How are we to cope with the migration of the ladybug?

As the season changes from summer into fall, insects adapt to prepare for the winter. Ladybugs are no exception. They are searching for a place to hibernate. Most often this is noticeable after a cold snap in the warmth of the afternoon sun. Most people know they are beneficial insects outside, and they are a good gardening partner. But they are a nuisance if they want to be “roomies”.

It is important to remember that although the ladybug is not the homeowner’s choice of accessorizing, they do not carry diseases, feed or reproduce inside, nor do any structural damage. Use of any kind of insecticides is to be avoided. Aerosols can create air quality concerns and do not prevent new ladybugs from entering the home. So here are a few spot on tips to help manage this uninvited guest:

• Be careful in handling the insects as they give off a defensive chemical which does have an offensive odor to it. Remember to wash your hands afterwards as well.
• Prevent the ladybugs from entering your house by making sure windows are sealed well, all damaged screens are repaired, cracks in siding and trim are sealed with caulk, and vents are covered with number 20 or smaller screen mesh.
• Sticky fly paper can be used to trap the beetles and then thrown away.
• Use a vacuum to collect them and change the bag after every use.
• To help the ladybug you can gently sweep them up and put them outside in a rock or wood pile to hibernate over the winter. For those up to the challenge, they can be collected in a paper bag, and stored in the refrigerator until spring. Then they can be moved outside to your garden and be the beneficial insect they are supposed to be.

For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners have a fact sheet on the ladybug so please call 570-963-6842 to request it or send your request to our email address: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Tomato Late Blight: Fall Clean-Up Questions

Can plants with late blight be disposed of by composting?
Theoretically yes, however, plant tissue (including potato tubers) can survive the winter in a warm compost pile. If plant tissue survives, so can the pathogen. Unless you know that you are composting properly, it is recommended that you dispose of infected plants, fruit and tubers in the trash.

Do I need to treat the soil this fall or next spring to prevent late blight from developing next year?
No. Once the tomato plant tissue is dead, the late blight pathogen cannot survive on crop debris. It can, however, survive in potato tubers, so it will be important to destroy any volunteer plants next year.

Can the late blight pathogen survive in or on tomato seed?
No, but there are other pathogens (especially bacterial pathogens) that can survive in or on the seed so there are other reasons to only use seed from healthy plants.

Could the late blight pathogen survive on tomato cages and stakes between seasons?
No. But it is a good idea to disinfect stakes and cages to help control bacterial diseases.

Are there late blight resistant tomato varieties that I should consider planting in the future?
There are some potato varieties with some resistance. These include ‘Elba’, ‘Kennebec’, ‘Allegany’, ‘Sebago’, ‘Rosa’, ‘Defender’, ‘Jacqueline Lee’ and ‘Ozette’. ‘Elba’ is considered the most resistant. There are some new late blight resistant tomato varieties that may be available as soon as 2010.

What can home gardeners and growers do to prevent another late blight epidemic next year?
Make sure that all late blight infected tomato plant and fruit tissue from this season is dead or destroyed. Destroy potato tubers that appear to be infected by late blight and also volunteer potatoes that grow next year.

Next year, make sure to plant healthy disease-free transplants. Examine your plants regularly for symptoms of late blight, especially if conditions are cool and wet. Avoid wet leaves by watering at the base of the plant or by using overhead irrigation during mid-morning so the leaves dry quickly. Improve air circulation by spacing plants farther apart and eliminating weeds.

To see the full article “Tomato Late Blight: Fall Clean-Up” by Beth Gugino, Penn State Plant Pathologist, please visit http://www.ppath.cas.psu.edu/EXTENSION/VEGDIS/Vegetable_Pathology_Home.htm or call your local extension office for a free copy. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden helpline or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Fall Work

Even though your home landscape isn’t in full bloom now doesn’t mean you can’t take advantage of the clear crisp days of fall. There is plenty to do outside.

• Cleaning - Your tools: although it is better to clean after every use we are too busy to do that consistently. Take great care handling the blades and other sharp parts. After cleaning use a metal oil to prevent rusting. Also consider to sharpen now when time is plentiful. Your mower: remove all accumulated clippings from under the deck to help prevent the spread of disease and keep your mower in better condition. Inspect for damage and fix as necessary. After you are done with it for the season, drain the gas, change the oil, and air filter. Consult the owner’s manual for specifics and work safely. Your garden: remove any diseased plant material completely. Bag it and set it out for trash removal. Compost only debris from healthy plants. Remove any weeds too. A little bit of prevention can inhibit diseases from over wintering.


• Compost - Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants. Shredding leaves with your mower helps them break down quickly. You can use them around trees shrubs and tender perennials as mulch.


• Crops - Your choice now will pay dividends next year: the fall is ideal for planting garlic, spring bulbs, and trees. Sow a cover crop such as winter rye that will grow this fall and protect the topsoil during winter. The following spring, plow the cover crop back into the soil to enrich it with fresh organic matter. This reduces populations of soil-borne disease agents.


• Care - Your can work around the home into the fall: grass still grows this time of year so remember to cut it regularly. And it is the ideal time to add lime, over seed and take a soil test to get the best turf for next year. Also, look around your home’s foundation. If you notice clumps of ornamentals or accumulated leaves, remove them. Rodents use these as nesting sites and means of hiding as they try to enter your house.

For more or specific information on fall garden care, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Fall Care

The signs are all here - the shorter days bringing quicker sunsets, the heavy dew on our cars in the morning, the ever present big yellow school buses - fall is here. This season brings on a host of gardening chores and choices. Although this past year has had its challenges for the home landscaper, autumn is a great time to experience the outdoors before the next big change.

Fall for Cutting
Most cool season grasses that do well in Pennsylvania go through a growth spurt in the fall. You may see that it grows faster now than during the summer, so remember to continue cutting your grass. In addition, the fall is a great time to reseed any bare spots. Plus it is an ideal time to fertilize the lawn. Giving turf the proper nutrients does more for improvement than any other practice. So consider a soil test to get the best balanced program. We have soil test kits and the publications “Lawn Management Through the Seasons” and “Don’t Guess…Soil Test” to guide you.

Fall for Care
By now most perennials have finished blooming and they need a bit of care to get through the next few months. First, it is good to make some notes on what worked and what didn’t. This way you can capitalize on this year’s successes for 2010. Some perennials need cutting back and some varieties can be left as is for a winter effect, or food for birds. Any diseased plants need to removed as soon as possible. Think though about rodents - they love to hibernate in thick clumps of ornamental grasses. The fact sheet “Fall Perennial Care” is available for additional help.

Fall for Color
As one season ends and another begins, the homeowner has another chance for color. There are many options to liven up the fall landscape with little or no effort. Fall mums are plentiful right now. These low maintenance flowers look good anywhere and need little care. Consider adding daisy-like asters to augment the fall mums. For even more effect, pansies are gaining popularity for this time of year. These three together will be a welcome sight as the rest of your landscape “falls” into the next season. For more information on mums or asters please call the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 and ask for “Asters” and “Chrysanthemums” or email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.