Spring Bulbs

Gardening has its good and not-so-good parts. It is a healthy hobby, but intense at times. Whether it is a vegetable, annual, or perennial, nothing is as rewarding as seeing the home landscape in full maturity.  However, it takes a lot of work, trial, and error to achieve results.  One benefit of gardening is it teaches us patience.  Good things come to those who wait.  As we are getting ready to put our gardens to bed for winter, we also need to think of next year at the same time, but we will be rewarded in time.

Think about spring color now, how nice it would be to see bright colors emerging as the rest of the garden still slumbers.  Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, can greet us warmly, but we have to do the work now.  Spring-flowering bulbs are unparalleled in terms of choices for plant material, kinds of blooms and colors, and a varied bloom time.  There is some time left to do this, and you can find some really good deals at your local garden center now.

Some things to consider...
Site:
Most bulbs need well drained soil.  If the area tends to have standing water after a spring thaw, then look for another location.  It is generally recommended not to plant under trees.  Bulbs require five to six hours of full sun at a minimum, and eight to ten for the best flowers.  Clusters, or larger groupings, have the most eye appeal so make sure you have plenty of room for a big display.  Avoid planting in a lawn or location that might be damaged from lawn care.  Their foliage needs as much sun as possible, so if they are cut down before dieback, it may affect the bulb quality. Spring bulbs do best if they are left in the same location year after year, so pick a site with that in mind.  Preparation is key to success for spring bulbs.  Loosen the soil to a depth of about twelve inches.  Add composted organic material to the top eight inches.  If you haven’t had a soil test done, then choose a low nitrogen formula.  There are many tailored just for spring bulbs.

Selection:
“Bulb” is a general term used to describe a host of plants. True bulbs include tulips, lilies, and daffodils.  Crocus start as corms.  Bearded iris and lily of the valley have tubers, which are thick underground stems.  Whichever you choose, tulips and daffodils have a wide variety of colors, and bloom types. They offer the greatest range of bloom times as well. Crocus give you the earliest color.  Hyacinths have a sweet fragrance outside.  Consider mixing and staggering your plantings to give you continuous color from March through May.  Spring bulbs, with very little care, will come back each year, fuller with better color.

The Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Hardy Bulbs in Pennsylvania.”  For a copy, please contact us 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG @psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Dahlias: To Dig or Not to Dig

Dahlias are considered tender perennials and as such they need to be protected from the winter cold. Many tender perennials survive very well left in the ground when provided with a thick layer of insulation from straw, leaves or mulch. Others need to be removed from the ground and stored in a cool dry area.In most northern climates, Dahlias would fall into the group of those plants that need to be removed. Left in the soil they are susceptible to excess moisture and may rot or freeze. Wait to dig until after a killing frost. This allows the plant to produce the maximum amount of food stored in this “tuber” (it actually is a tuberous root) for beautiful growth the following year. Cut the tops back to a few inches. Carefully lift out of the soil without damaging the tubers.

Store in a cool location with temperatures around 50 degrees F. Storing in coarse vermiculite will help to maintain enough moisture to prevent the tubers from shriveling but not enough to cause them to rot.

You can find this article (by Mary Conklin) and other useful gardening articles in the Oct-Dec, 2011 issue of Bloomin ‘n News at http://extension.psu.edu/montgomery/programs/master-gardener.

Curious about the differences among tubers, tuberous roots, bulbs, rhizomes, and corms? Then visit http://www.pcmg-texas.org/BulbsCormsTubers.pdf. For other gardening questions in Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaExt@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Gardeners Have Mulch To Do In Early Spring

There isn't a lot you can do in a Pennsylvania flower garden on a March day, even if it's sunny and warm. But Robert Berghage, associate professor of horticulture in the College of Agricultural Sciences, recommends spreading mulch to delay plant emergence as long as possible.

"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."

Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.

Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.

"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."

Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.

"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."

If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County