Even though the growing season is over for the most part, you can give your garden a reprieve with a splash of fall color. Fall mums are an excellent choice to revive your outdoor spaces. They are an excellent choice for this time of year. Very few gardening options are care-free like chrysanthemums. You base your selection on color, size, and type of blossom, without worrying if it will do well. Fall mums are usually grown and sold for instant and in-place color. You can’t do much wrong with these plants.
Most chrysanthemums sold this time of year are generally categorized as “fall mums.” The term hardy is not used much anymore as the plants are grown for color and blooms rather than their perennial characteristics. Consumer preferences mean they purchased them for their color now, with planting and caring for them as a permanent fixture in the garden far from anyone’s mind. We buy them for what mums give now, lots of color and don’t expect them to come back in the spring.
Gardeners rarely have easy decisions to make but mums for fall are about as easy as it gets. The choices ride solely on your tastes. You can purchase small plants, in six inch pots, but those are generally not as popular as the larger ones, even though they cost less. The next step up, and the most popular, is mums in eight to ten inch pots. And then there are grand ones, twelve inch pots or in pre-planted decorative containers. The choice is yours. No matter the size, mums can be set out as is, and look beautiful.
Look at the leaves, which should be green in color, not mottled with yellow, ragged or dead edges, which can be signs of a diseased or distressed plant. Read the plastic stake inserted in the pot. It gives the best recommended care for that particular variety. Plus, it gives you an idea of what the plant will look like in full bloom. For the most impact, choose plants in bud stage, and these will give you the longest color display.
Once the chrysanthemums are home, you can leave them in their pots. Most of the original containers have large drainage holes so be mindful of that. When you water, a lot will come out of the bottom. If you place the plants in another container, make sure it has good drainage. Mums do not like wet roots. If you are energetic this time of year, you can re-plant the mums in the ground. They prefer moist, but well drained soil. Add compost, gently loosen any roots that are bound, and plant at the same height as it was in the original pot. You will get better blooms if the mums are not near street lights. Mums are day length sensitive so exposure to lights at night will inhibit blooming.
For more information on fall mum care, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the mums fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County
Sunday, September 18, 2016
Wednesday, August 10, 2016
Managing Blossom-End Rot
One of the current issues plaguing the home gardener right now is blossom-end rot. Often mistaken for a disease, it is primarily a disorder. No bacteria or pest causes blossom-end rot, rather the plant cannot get what it needs - calcium. This is caused by a lack of calcium uptake from the soil and resulting in little transfer to the fruits during dry weather. Too much water can interfere as well.
Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit, but, most commonly are first seen when the fruit is one-third to one-half its full size. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. Initially a small, water-soaked spot appears which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruit develops. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as one third to one-half of the entire fruit surface, or the spot may remain small and superficial. Large lesions soon dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture.
Blossom-end rot happens when a number of conditions come into place. The disease is especially prevalent when rapidly growing plants are exposed to wide fluctuations in water amounts. Calcium cannot be taken from the roots to the rest of plant and sustain healthy tomatoes. The fruit doesn’t have the necessary nutrient and the bottom of the tomato begins to rot. Other factors include a pH out of range and damage done to the roots from cultivation too closely. Heavy applications of nitrogen will contribute to blossom-end rot.
To manage blossom-end rot, take these steps:
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit, but, most commonly are first seen when the fruit is one-third to one-half its full size. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. Initially a small, water-soaked spot appears which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruit develops. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as one third to one-half of the entire fruit surface, or the spot may remain small and superficial. Large lesions soon dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture.
Blossom-end rot happens when a number of conditions come into place. The disease is especially prevalent when rapidly growing plants are exposed to wide fluctuations in water amounts. Calcium cannot be taken from the roots to the rest of plant and sustain healthy tomatoes. The fruit doesn’t have the necessary nutrient and the bottom of the tomato begins to rot. Other factors include a pH out of range and damage done to the roots from cultivation too closely. Heavy applications of nitrogen will contribute to blossom-end rot.
To manage blossom-end rot, take these steps:
- Tread lightly around the roots of the plants to avoid damage.
- Water consistently if there is a lack of rain, about one inch per week. Water slowly at the base of the plant.
- Add mulch to your garden, this conserves moisture.
- Use fertilizer low in nitrogen
- Do not spray any type of pesticide, as this is not a symptom of insect, bacteria, or fungi damage pesticides are ineffective on blossom-end rot.
- Consider a soil test, this will give you a complete analysis of what your garden needs and will give you a head start for the next growing season.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Thursday, July 21, 2016
Managing Powdery Mildew
As sure as there will be the usual enjoyable elements of an summer, such as cook outs, vacations, swimming, and sunshine, there are parts of summer for the home gardener that are not enjoyable. Just about every year, there are pests and diseases we have to keep in check.
One inevitable disease, regardless of what is in your garden, is powdery mildew. While the kind of powdery mildew is host specific, meaning you may have it on your tomatoes and your roses, but they are different kinds of the disease. There are two unique aspects of powdery mildew that make it difficult to keep away. One, while other diseases fester on injured or stressed plants, powdery mildew grows on healthy plants. And, powdery mildew does not need free water to grow; other fungi need water already on the plant to grow and spread. Fairly high humidity and moderately warm temperatures are all powdery mildew needs to grow. This makes the disease prevalent in your yard.
Visual inspection is the easiest way to determine if powdery mildew exists. The leaves are covered in a talc-like substance, making it look like powder was shaken all over them. New growth tends to be smothered in it, resulting in a stunted, curled look. Older leaves affected will have the typical white spores and will tend to turn yellow, a problem called chlorosis. In ideal conditions, the disease can be in full force in three to five days.
There are cultural controls a homeowner can use to help manage the disease. What this means is you can take some steps without using chemicals first. The disease is hampered when there is adequate light and ventilation. If your plants are crowded, it’s best to thin them out. Keeping the air moving in and around your plants will inhibit the fungi. Woody perennials can be pruned to maintain light and ventilation. There are many kinds of ornamentals which are susceptible, the disease is not limited to annuals and vegetables, so thin out peonies, viburnum, euonymus, and others. While some other landscape plants may not be affected by powdery mildew, if they are overgrown and shade out the other landscape elements, they can contribute to the disease.
There are options if chemical control is needed, but they should be applied as soon as the symptoms first appear. It is very important to read the label first, as some treatments when applied to the wrong plant, may severely damage it. Using sulfur on viburnum or applied on hot days can kill a plant. Most often, fungicides have to be applied regularly to be effective. Please purchase a fungicide suited for powdery mildew, and it should state it clearly on the label. Chlorothalonil is a popular choice as is a copper based fungicide. Caution must be exercised as all chemicals have some risk to the applicator, the plant, and beneficial insects.
For more information on powdery mildew on ornamentals, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a factsheet to help you manage this disease. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
One inevitable disease, regardless of what is in your garden, is powdery mildew. While the kind of powdery mildew is host specific, meaning you may have it on your tomatoes and your roses, but they are different kinds of the disease. There are two unique aspects of powdery mildew that make it difficult to keep away. One, while other diseases fester on injured or stressed plants, powdery mildew grows on healthy plants. And, powdery mildew does not need free water to grow; other fungi need water already on the plant to grow and spread. Fairly high humidity and moderately warm temperatures are all powdery mildew needs to grow. This makes the disease prevalent in your yard.
Visual inspection is the easiest way to determine if powdery mildew exists. The leaves are covered in a talc-like substance, making it look like powder was shaken all over them. New growth tends to be smothered in it, resulting in a stunted, curled look. Older leaves affected will have the typical white spores and will tend to turn yellow, a problem called chlorosis. In ideal conditions, the disease can be in full force in three to five days.
There are cultural controls a homeowner can use to help manage the disease. What this means is you can take some steps without using chemicals first. The disease is hampered when there is adequate light and ventilation. If your plants are crowded, it’s best to thin them out. Keeping the air moving in and around your plants will inhibit the fungi. Woody perennials can be pruned to maintain light and ventilation. There are many kinds of ornamentals which are susceptible, the disease is not limited to annuals and vegetables, so thin out peonies, viburnum, euonymus, and others. While some other landscape plants may not be affected by powdery mildew, if they are overgrown and shade out the other landscape elements, they can contribute to the disease.
There are options if chemical control is needed, but they should be applied as soon as the symptoms first appear. It is very important to read the label first, as some treatments when applied to the wrong plant, may severely damage it. Using sulfur on viburnum or applied on hot days can kill a plant. Most often, fungicides have to be applied regularly to be effective. Please purchase a fungicide suited for powdery mildew, and it should state it clearly on the label. Chlorothalonil is a popular choice as is a copper based fungicide. Caution must be exercised as all chemicals have some risk to the applicator, the plant, and beneficial insects.
For more information on powdery mildew on ornamentals, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a factsheet to help you manage this disease. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County
Monday, June 27, 2016
Mosquitoes
There are numerous enjoyable and fun activities we anticipate during the summer- vacations, staycations, picnics, ball games, barbecues, swimming, and on and on. Insects of many kinds are annoying and just as prevalent as all of our outdoor summer busyness. One bug in particular has made global headlines, the mosquito.
The Zika virus is a serious health threat, and it is carried by the Aedes mosquito, but this insect does not like our climate because it is too cold here. The virus can be caught if you travel to warmer climates and bitten by the Aedes mosquito. While the chances of getting sick from this disease are low, mosquitoes in our area can be much more than a nuisance.
We know that mosquitoes transmit various diseases in North America and throughout the world, such as malaria, yellow fever, typhus, dengue, filariasis or encephalitis. Depending on the species of mosquito, they may transmit pathogens from human to human, animal to animal, animal to human or human to animal. Mosquitoes carry Dirofilaria immitis, also known as the heartworm and a very dangerous health threat to dogs
The life cycle of a mosquito ranges on ten days to two weeks. After biting and consuming the host’s blood, a female can lay 100 to 400 eggs. Mosquitoes develop in slow-moving or stagnant water. Places where mosquitoes grow and develop are commonly referred to as "breeding sites." And a homeowner can have these around the yard unknowingly.
Here are some tips to control mosquitoes:
Breeding Site Elimination
The most effective method of mosquito control around the home is to prevent the larvae and pupae from developing. This can be done by eliminating or altering existing breeding sites.
•Destroy or dispose of tin cans, old tires or any other unnecessary water containers.
•Change the water in birdbaths and wading pools once or twice a week. Turn wading pools upside down when not in use.
•Keep rain gutters unclogged and flat roofs dry.
•Drain and fill stagnant pools, puddles, ditches or swampy places around the home.
•Keep the margins of small ponds clear of vegetation.
•Place tight covers over rain barrels
Repellents
Repellents are useful in protecting against mosquito bites. Available under various trade names, most contain the active ingredient diethyl toluamide (DEET). Repellents provide protection for up to five hours, depending on amount of perspiration, skin rubbing, temperature, and abundance of mosquitoes. Protection is rarely 100 percent when one is exposed to a heavy mosquito population. Application should be made to clothing and to exposed skin areas but, not around the eyes, nose or lips. Follow carefully all directions on the label.
Other Management Controls
If standing water cannot be eliminated, there are treatments available at garden centers such as Bt, but please read and follow directions as intended for mosquito control. Cut weeds and tall grassy areas near your home to help reduce mosquitoes harborage areas. Leave yard lights off when possible to avoid attracting them unnecessarily. You can also try less attractive lights like sodium lights as fluorescent or incandescent lights are more attractive to mosquitoes. Make sure that window and door screens fit properly. Repair or replace any screens with holes or tears. And check with your veterinarian to ensure your pets are protected too.
For more information on this summer pest, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Mosquito Biology and Control.” Contact us 570-963-6842 or LackawnnaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County
The Zika virus is a serious health threat, and it is carried by the Aedes mosquito, but this insect does not like our climate because it is too cold here. The virus can be caught if you travel to warmer climates and bitten by the Aedes mosquito. While the chances of getting sick from this disease are low, mosquitoes in our area can be much more than a nuisance.
We know that mosquitoes transmit various diseases in North America and throughout the world, such as malaria, yellow fever, typhus, dengue, filariasis or encephalitis. Depending on the species of mosquito, they may transmit pathogens from human to human, animal to animal, animal to human or human to animal. Mosquitoes carry Dirofilaria immitis, also known as the heartworm and a very dangerous health threat to dogs
The life cycle of a mosquito ranges on ten days to two weeks. After biting and consuming the host’s blood, a female can lay 100 to 400 eggs. Mosquitoes develop in slow-moving or stagnant water. Places where mosquitoes grow and develop are commonly referred to as "breeding sites." And a homeowner can have these around the yard unknowingly.
Here are some tips to control mosquitoes:
Breeding Site Elimination
The most effective method of mosquito control around the home is to prevent the larvae and pupae from developing. This can be done by eliminating or altering existing breeding sites.
•Destroy or dispose of tin cans, old tires or any other unnecessary water containers.
•Change the water in birdbaths and wading pools once or twice a week. Turn wading pools upside down when not in use.
•Keep rain gutters unclogged and flat roofs dry.
•Drain and fill stagnant pools, puddles, ditches or swampy places around the home.
•Keep the margins of small ponds clear of vegetation.
•Place tight covers over rain barrels
Repellents
Repellents are useful in protecting against mosquito bites. Available under various trade names, most contain the active ingredient diethyl toluamide (DEET). Repellents provide protection for up to five hours, depending on amount of perspiration, skin rubbing, temperature, and abundance of mosquitoes. Protection is rarely 100 percent when one is exposed to a heavy mosquito population. Application should be made to clothing and to exposed skin areas but, not around the eyes, nose or lips. Follow carefully all directions on the label.
Other Management Controls
If standing water cannot be eliminated, there are treatments available at garden centers such as Bt, but please read and follow directions as intended for mosquito control. Cut weeds and tall grassy areas near your home to help reduce mosquitoes harborage areas. Leave yard lights off when possible to avoid attracting them unnecessarily. You can also try less attractive lights like sodium lights as fluorescent or incandescent lights are more attractive to mosquitoes. Make sure that window and door screens fit properly. Repair or replace any screens with holes or tears. And check with your veterinarian to ensure your pets are protected too.
For more information on this summer pest, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Mosquito Biology and Control.” Contact us 570-963-6842 or LackawnnaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County
Tuesday, April 5, 2016
Caring for Your Daffodils
What’s not to like about daffodils? They are easy to plant, require little care, and bloom dependably. Plus, daffodils are vigorous signs winter is just about over. Despite the wide ranging temperatures and conditions, they still put on a beautiful show for us. While nearly foolproof, there are still some issues with them.
•The daffodils have foliage, but few or no blooms:
This could be for two reasons, the foliage may have been cut back before it turned completely brown and died back; or, there was not enough sunlight.
If the daffodils aren’t blooming, the plants weren’t able to store enough food in their bulbs in the previous year. Daffodil foliage typically persists for four to six weeks after blooming. During this four to six week period, the daffodil foliage is manufacturing food. Much of the food is transported down to the bulbs. In order to bloom, daffodils must store adequate levels of food in their bulbs. Cutting off the foliage before it has died back naturally may prevent the plants from storing adequate food in the bulbs. Allow the daffodil foliage to die completely before removing it. Plants in partial shade in May and June may not be able to store enough food in their bulbs because of insufficient sunlight. Dig up daffodils growing in partial shade when the foliage has died back and plant the bulbs in a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun per day. If given good care and favorable growing conditions, weak (non-blooming) daffodils can be encouraged to flower again.
•The daffodils need to be moved:
Daffodils can be dug up and replanted as soon as the foliage dies back (turns brown) in late spring/early summer. Daffodils can also be dug up and replanted in fall (October). If you would like to move daffodil bulbs in fall, mark the site when the foliage is present so the bulbs can be located in October. Daffodils perform best when planted in a well-drained soil in partial to full sun. The planting site should receive at least six hours of direct sun per day.
•The foliage looks messy and is falling over:
Daffodil foliage tends to get floppy and look a little unruly. However, it’s best to leave the foliage alone and not tie or braid the leaves. The daffodil foliage manufactures food for the plant. Adequate amounts of food must be stored in the bulbs in order for the daffodils to bloom the following spring. Tying the leaves together with rubber bands or braiding the foliage reduces the leaf area exposed to sunlight. As a result, the leaves manufacture smaller amounts of food. Plus, tying or braiding the foliage is a time-consuming chore.
•The daffodils are weak looking, have blighted leaves, or no growth at all:
Few insects and diseases plague daffodils. Excessive amounts of water or poorly drained soils are the biggest threat to the bulbs. Plant them in well-drained soil. This is especially true during the summer when the daffodils are dormant. Soft, rotting bulbs are a sign of too much water. Too much fertilizer can damage the bulbs as well. Throw away, do not compost, any bulbs that are diseased to avoid spreading.
For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free fact sheet on daffodil care. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
•The daffodils have foliage, but few or no blooms:
This could be for two reasons, the foliage may have been cut back before it turned completely brown and died back; or, there was not enough sunlight.
If the daffodils aren’t blooming, the plants weren’t able to store enough food in their bulbs in the previous year. Daffodil foliage typically persists for four to six weeks after blooming. During this four to six week period, the daffodil foliage is manufacturing food. Much of the food is transported down to the bulbs. In order to bloom, daffodils must store adequate levels of food in their bulbs. Cutting off the foliage before it has died back naturally may prevent the plants from storing adequate food in the bulbs. Allow the daffodil foliage to die completely before removing it. Plants in partial shade in May and June may not be able to store enough food in their bulbs because of insufficient sunlight. Dig up daffodils growing in partial shade when the foliage has died back and plant the bulbs in a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun per day. If given good care and favorable growing conditions, weak (non-blooming) daffodils can be encouraged to flower again.
•The daffodils need to be moved:
Daffodils can be dug up and replanted as soon as the foliage dies back (turns brown) in late spring/early summer. Daffodils can also be dug up and replanted in fall (October). If you would like to move daffodil bulbs in fall, mark the site when the foliage is present so the bulbs can be located in October. Daffodils perform best when planted in a well-drained soil in partial to full sun. The planting site should receive at least six hours of direct sun per day.
•The foliage looks messy and is falling over:
Daffodil foliage tends to get floppy and look a little unruly. However, it’s best to leave the foliage alone and not tie or braid the leaves. The daffodil foliage manufactures food for the plant. Adequate amounts of food must be stored in the bulbs in order for the daffodils to bloom the following spring. Tying the leaves together with rubber bands or braiding the foliage reduces the leaf area exposed to sunlight. As a result, the leaves manufacture smaller amounts of food. Plus, tying or braiding the foliage is a time-consuming chore.
•The daffodils are weak looking, have blighted leaves, or no growth at all:
Few insects and diseases plague daffodils. Excessive amounts of water or poorly drained soils are the biggest threat to the bulbs. Plant them in well-drained soil. This is especially true during the summer when the daffodils are dormant. Soft, rotting bulbs are a sign of too much water. Too much fertilizer can damage the bulbs as well. Throw away, do not compost, any bulbs that are diseased to avoid spreading.
For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free fact sheet on daffodil care. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Thursday, March 10, 2016
February Tips
We have passed many winter milestones by now: the sun is setting later, groundhog’s day was a couple of weeks ago, Presidents Day was last Monday. Even though winter can linger, and February’s weather can be brutal, there are signs this season is coming to a close. With all these passings, we can start to plan and be more active in the pursuit of home gardening. Here are some early season tips to guide you.
Indoor houseplants: It’s easy to overlook these, as they have been sitting on a shelf and you pass by them constantly, but they still need care. Check to make sure they aren’t root bound and re-pot as necessary. They can be moved to a sunny location now that the days are longer, but be careful to avoid placing them in a draft.
Bulbs: You should check on the condition of the tender bulbs you dug up and stored for the winter. Signs that they did not survive are softness, shriveling, and rot. For the health of other bulbs, discard anything showing these symptoms.
Seed packets: Do you save your own from years past? Or, are you looking to get a fresh supply? Take inventory now, and order early. This way you can purchase what you want before things sell out. If you start seeds indoors, refresh yourself with days to germination, light, soil, and moisture conditions. Make sure all your equipment is sanitized.
Plans: Now is a good time to plan your landscape and garden. Make notes of what you remember what flourished and what plants struggled. Important too, is know your USDA hardiness zone. In our area, there are many microclimates. The USDA has an online tool to help you find suitable plants for your garden, and it is based on your zipcode. Check it out at : http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. There are some seeds that can started soon but plan ahead for them so they will be at the right stage of development when you transplant them outside.
Plants: check your hardy perennials, trees, and shrubs for winter and storm damage. Prune any injured limbs to avoid disease any further damage. And, most people don’t think of their lawn as a plant, but it is, and needs care even in the winter. If you haven’t had a soil test recently, spring is one of the best times to amend your turf. Soil test kits are available for purchase in our office. The test will give the best treatment recommendations for your soil and save you money.
The Penn State Master Gardeners have plenty of free information on any of the above topics. Plus, we will be having a training, if you are interested in becoming a master gardener. The classes begin March 8, are help on Tuesday and Thursday nights from 6:00 to 9:00 pm. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for more information.
Indoor houseplants: It’s easy to overlook these, as they have been sitting on a shelf and you pass by them constantly, but they still need care. Check to make sure they aren’t root bound and re-pot as necessary. They can be moved to a sunny location now that the days are longer, but be careful to avoid placing them in a draft.
Bulbs: You should check on the condition of the tender bulbs you dug up and stored for the winter. Signs that they did not survive are softness, shriveling, and rot. For the health of other bulbs, discard anything showing these symptoms.
Seed packets: Do you save your own from years past? Or, are you looking to get a fresh supply? Take inventory now, and order early. This way you can purchase what you want before things sell out. If you start seeds indoors, refresh yourself with days to germination, light, soil, and moisture conditions. Make sure all your equipment is sanitized.
Plans: Now is a good time to plan your landscape and garden. Make notes of what you remember what flourished and what plants struggled. Important too, is know your USDA hardiness zone. In our area, there are many microclimates. The USDA has an online tool to help you find suitable plants for your garden, and it is based on your zipcode. Check it out at : http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. There are some seeds that can started soon but plan ahead for them so they will be at the right stage of development when you transplant them outside.
Plants: check your hardy perennials, trees, and shrubs for winter and storm damage. Prune any injured limbs to avoid disease any further damage. And, most people don’t think of their lawn as a plant, but it is, and needs care even in the winter. If you haven’t had a soil test recently, spring is one of the best times to amend your turf. Soil test kits are available for purchase in our office. The test will give the best treatment recommendations for your soil and save you money.
The Penn State Master Gardeners have plenty of free information on any of the above topics. Plus, we will be having a training, if you are interested in becoming a master gardener. The classes begin March 8, are help on Tuesday and Thursday nights from 6:00 to 9:00 pm. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for more information.
Steve Ward
Master
Gardener Coordinator
Penn State
Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Pet Safety In The Yard
We have experienced one of the mildest winters on record, in stark contrast to year’s record lows. Which makes you anticipate gardening and enjoying the home landscape more-a long winter, or this mild one? The time change happened early this morning, so even our days are longer. Have you thought about what you will do this year in your yard, and with whom you will enjoy it?
Yourself, along with friends and family safely enjoy the outdoors, but have you given much thought to your other friends, the four-footed kind? We share our homes, both the inside and outside, with our pets, so it is important to think through some of our landscape practices to ensure what we do is safe for our families, the environment, and animals.
Fencing, for two reasons should be the first option. One is to keep them in, providing a safe place and avoiding traffic and other distractions like run-ins with wildlife. Second, a fence around a vegetable garden will keep them out. Dogs should not mark your vegetable plants as their territory. A fence will prevent them from leaving their own brand of fertilizer behind too. Keeping pets out of the garden will diminish the spread of some diseases. Septoria leaf spot is a water- borne disease. Water droplets on a dog’s fur can transfer the pathogen from one plant to another as they roam about.
In addition, choose plants wisely. Some are known to be toxic, to varying degrees, to pets. The aptly named dogbane, some lilies, dahlias, and bishops weed are common and known to cause problems with dogs. Baby’s breath, Coleus, and elephant ears cause reactions with cats. Composting and mulching are great landscape practices, and homeowners are encouraged to do them. When composting, avoid putting meat and moldy foods in the compost pile. These are attractive nuisances to your pet. Dogs are drawn to the sweet smell of cocoa mulch, and if ingested, can create a wide range of disorders. Avoid using this if you have pets.
Often times, a chemical of some sort is needed around the home. Fertilizers, weed and feeds, and pesticides are common tools to achieve optimum results. Pets are curious to things and smells. Snail bait, ant and fly traps, and rat poisons need to be kept away from animals. Read and follow the label directions when applying fertilizers, lawn treatments, and pesticides. They are dangerous if swallowed. Some dogs cannot resist chewing a new container, and need your help to protect them from harm.
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free fact sheet on protecting your pets in your yard. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Yourself, along with friends and family safely enjoy the outdoors, but have you given much thought to your other friends, the four-footed kind? We share our homes, both the inside and outside, with our pets, so it is important to think through some of our landscape practices to ensure what we do is safe for our families, the environment, and animals.
Fencing, for two reasons should be the first option. One is to keep them in, providing a safe place and avoiding traffic and other distractions like run-ins with wildlife. Second, a fence around a vegetable garden will keep them out. Dogs should not mark your vegetable plants as their territory. A fence will prevent them from leaving their own brand of fertilizer behind too. Keeping pets out of the garden will diminish the spread of some diseases. Septoria leaf spot is a water- borne disease. Water droplets on a dog’s fur can transfer the pathogen from one plant to another as they roam about.
In addition, choose plants wisely. Some are known to be toxic, to varying degrees, to pets. The aptly named dogbane, some lilies, dahlias, and bishops weed are common and known to cause problems with dogs. Baby’s breath, Coleus, and elephant ears cause reactions with cats. Composting and mulching are great landscape practices, and homeowners are encouraged to do them. When composting, avoid putting meat and moldy foods in the compost pile. These are attractive nuisances to your pet. Dogs are drawn to the sweet smell of cocoa mulch, and if ingested, can create a wide range of disorders. Avoid using this if you have pets.
Often times, a chemical of some sort is needed around the home. Fertilizers, weed and feeds, and pesticides are common tools to achieve optimum results. Pets are curious to things and smells. Snail bait, ant and fly traps, and rat poisons need to be kept away from animals. Read and follow the label directions when applying fertilizers, lawn treatments, and pesticides. They are dangerous if swallowed. Some dogs cannot resist chewing a new container, and need your help to protect them from harm.
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free fact sheet on protecting your pets in your yard. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, January 11, 2016
Farm Show
Are you suffering from the post-holiday blues yet? Or, despite the warmer-than-usual winter, long for the greener times of year? There are few choices you have if you want a diversion for any reason in January. What about taking a road trip? Is there anything fun and free to do this time of year?
There is one answer to all of those questions, the 2016 Pennsylvania Farm Show. And, it’s not just for farmers. It provides an atmosphere for everyone to walk through, observe and educate themselves about different areas of Agriculture - the Commonwealth's largest industry, and what the industry provides to them. The Farm Show provides a showplace for farmers to see the most up-to-date farm equipment, farming practices, and farming needs. Just as importantly, the show gives us regular folks an educational showcase to learn about agriculture and how the products they consume are harvested and processed.
Some fun facts about the Farm Show:
The Pennsylvania Farm Show is educational too. You can see exhibits and vendors promoting all sorts of farming related topics. Many people have never been exposed to the hard work of our farmers, and all the effort they put forth to feed us, and the world. On top of that, Penn State Extension holds workshops and demonstrations throughout the duration of the show. Some of the topics include: home food preservation, understanding rototilling your garden, attracting butterflies, gardening for seasonal color, poultry science, and gardening 101.
The Pennsylvania Farm Show is going on now though Saturday January 16. For a thorough list of activities, maps, and visitor information, go to www.farmshow.state.pa.us The show is well worth the trip.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
There is one answer to all of those questions, the 2016 Pennsylvania Farm Show. And, it’s not just for farmers. It provides an atmosphere for everyone to walk through, observe and educate themselves about different areas of Agriculture - the Commonwealth's largest industry, and what the industry provides to them. The Farm Show provides a showplace for farmers to see the most up-to-date farm equipment, farming practices, and farming needs. Just as importantly, the show gives us regular folks an educational showcase to learn about agriculture and how the products they consume are harvested and processed.
Some fun facts about the Farm Show:
- It is free
- The show is the largest indoor agricultural event in our country.
- The Farm Show Complex houses 24 acres under roof, spread throughout 11 buildings including three arenas.
- The Farm Show Complex is used for events all year, but it is a green operation. Since 2010, changes made there have reduced the carbon footprint by 1650 metric tons each year.
- The food is amazing! Visitors last year consumed: about 100,000 milkshakes, 20,000 dozen potato doughnuts, 7,000 apple dumplings, 11,000 whoopie pies, nearly 9,000 Strawberry Surprise drinks, and 4,500 bags of maple cotton candy. Proceeds from food sales support eleven different agricultural organizations across the state.
The Pennsylvania Farm Show is educational too. You can see exhibits and vendors promoting all sorts of farming related topics. Many people have never been exposed to the hard work of our farmers, and all the effort they put forth to feed us, and the world. On top of that, Penn State Extension holds workshops and demonstrations throughout the duration of the show. Some of the topics include: home food preservation, understanding rototilling your garden, attracting butterflies, gardening for seasonal color, poultry science, and gardening 101.
The Pennsylvania Farm Show is going on now though Saturday January 16. For a thorough list of activities, maps, and visitor information, go to www.farmshow.state.pa.us The show is well worth the trip.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
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