Uninvited Guests: Squirrels

With winter fading away (we hope!) now is a good time to implement some of the squirrel management methods described below so you will be ready for next winter … and deal with any current squirrel issues!

During the cold winter months, wildlife such as tree squirrels sometimes find their way into buildings and homes through loose siding or ventilation screens, looking for a place to nest. Once inside, they can damage walls, insulation, and tendency to chew. In most cases, these squirrels can be managed using IPM tactics that are safe and effective.

Step 1 Pest Identification
The first step in wildlife pest management is identifying what type of squirrel is causing damage to your property. The eastern gray squirrel can range in color from black to silver with a white belly. They are 16 to 24 inches in length. Gray squirrels can be found in any area that has nuts and seeds, including urban backyards. Flying squirrels are smaller than other tree squirrels, between 8 and 10 inches in length. They vary in color from gray to brown, and have broad webs of skin connecting the fore and hind legs at the wrists and a flattened tail that allows them to glide from tree to tree. Squirrels can be found anywhere there is an ample supply of nuts and seeds.

Step 2 Prevention
There are many ways to prevent squirrel damage:

• Make your property less hospitable to wildlife pests by keeping the property clean and maintained.
• Trim trees and limbs to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs.
• Exclude squirrels from inside buildings by using caulking or mesh to seal up holes where small animals could gain entry.
• Install fences around plants, trees and gardens to reduce their source of food.
  Place birdfeeders 15 to 30 feet from buildings.
• Consider removing birdfeeders if squirrels are a problem.
  

Step 3 Controlling Squirrels Safely
There are very few repellants currently available for use on squirrels and have a very limited success rate. In addition, there are no fumigants or toxicants federally registered for use on squirrels. Try these IPM methods instead:

• Frightening – Frighten squirrels by using loud noises or lights in attics or closets where they are nesting.
• Trapping – Use wire-cage and box traps to capture squirrels alive, baiting the traps with orange or apple slices, walnuts and pecans removed from the shell, or peanut butter. Check the traps twice a day and release the squirrel once exclusion tactics are used to secure the building.

For more information on squirrels and other wildlife pests, go the PA IPM Program Problem Solver at http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/441.htm. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Moss

All that grows green isn’t always something homeowners want in their lawn. Dandelions, white clover, ground ivy, perennial weeds, and all sorts of annual grasses are plants needing turf management. One of the first weeds to green-up in the spring is moss.

Many different species of moss can grow and persist in home lawns. Unlike seed-bearing plants, mosses produce spores that can be wind-blown from one area to another. Moss is an opportunistic plant that will develop and grow in bare soil areas or where lawns are weak and thin. Moss does not “crowd out” grass, but once it is established, grass plants will not spread into those areas.

Moss is very persistent and difficult to remove from a lawn unless an effort is made to promote a healthy, dense, actively-growing turf to take its place. Moss in lawns is usually the result of conditions that are not conducive to good growth of turf. It is most commonly associated with shallow, rocky soils; poor soil fertility; low soil pH (acid soils); heavy shade; and excessive moisture. If any of these factors are limiting turf growth, moss can invade the lawn and establish a permanent residence.

The first step in a moss control program is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Soil test kits are available from the Penn State Cooperative Extension office for a nominal fee. If the soil is deficient in nutrients or in need of liming, the soil test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply them.

If shade and/or moisture are the limiting factors for good turf growth, steps should be taken to correct the situation or plant grasses that are adapted to shaded or moist areas. The fine fescues are the best-adapted turfgrasses to shaded, well-drained soils, whereas, rough bluegrass is better adapted to shaded, moist soils.

Unfortunately, there are very few products that can be used to control moss. Products containing fertilizer and iron sulfate are sold at retail garden centers and can turn moss black and sometimes reduce encroachment Be sure to follow label directions so that these products are used safely and correctly. We have a free publication “Moss in the Lawn”. For a copy, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Also, on every Saturday now through May 22nd, we are having a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will be there from 11 am – 2 pm to answer your gardening questions. Plus at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This is free and open to the public.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce