New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners

I know, making New Year’s resolutions is so two weeks ago … but hey, there’s still time to make some resolutions that will give you a healthier garden, help protect your family and the environment, and (without having to make another resolution) probably help you lose a few pounds along the way!

Here are 12 resolutions for the coming year, adapted from a list developed by Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor from the University of Vermont.

1. Start a compost pile for leaves, plant residues, and kitchen scraps to be mixed in your soil as compost or around your plants as mulch to enrich your garden and improve plant growth.
2. Use biological controls whenever feasible for insects and diseases in the garden, starting with planting pest-resistant varieties.
3. Apply pesticides (whether conventional or organic) only as a last resort and always use them safely and prudently.
4. Store all garden chemicals (pesticides, fertilizers, etc.) in their original containers, out of reach of children and pets, and preferably in a locked storage area.
5. Use fertilizers only as indicated by soil tests, and use organic forms whenever possible.
6. Mow properly (often, not too high or low), and set up your mower to “leave grass clippings lay” (or compost them) so they will recycle organic matter and nutrients back into the soil.
7. Conserve water by mulching, using efficient watering methods such as drip irrigation systems, and selecting drought-resistant ornamental plants.
8. Develop a landscape plan that works with the environment, for example, ground covers on steep banks to prevent soil erosion and shade trees on the sunny side of a home to act as a natural air conditioner. Landscaping also can help reduce temperature extremes, filter out air pollutants, and stop noise.
9. Create natural wildlife habitats by planting trees and shrubs that provide food or cover or by leaving brush and undergrowth in certain areas for birds, rabbits, and other small animals to use as a protective haven.
10. Provide food and water for the birds and to continue to feed them once they have come to depend on you.
11. Establish and maintain pollinator-friendly plantings and use gardening methods that protect and nurture both “wild” and managed pollinators.
12. Encourage others, whenever possible, to do all they can to help preserve the environment and our natural resources.

If you have questions, contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Low Impact Weed Killing

Perennial weeds can be difficult to control. But waiting will only let the problem worsen.

Have just a few? When the soil is moist gently loosen the soil and gently pull from the bottom of the plant (yes, loosen and pull gently so you can get out as many roots as possible without breaking them off). Don’t be surprised if you have to “follow” the roots (loosening the soil along the way) while you pull - they can travel quite far! If the few perennial weeds you have are mixed in with other plants, you might try applying a nonselective herbicide when the weeds are actively growing. Paint it on with a brush so you do not kill the nearby plants with overspray. Repeat both methods as needed.

If you have a heavy weed problem and can do without the weedy area for the season, you could try solarization during the hot summer months. Water the area well. Cover the area with black plastic and secure the edges with soil, rocks, or earth staples (you can make them with wire hangers). Leave the plastic on for 60 days. The heat from the summer sun will sterilize the soil.

If you can leave the area fallow (with no garden plants) for the season AND would like to enrich your soil in the process, try smother cropping. This method basically starves out the weeds by planting another crop that shades out weeds combined with rapid harvest cycles that do not give the weeds time to replenish the food reserves in their roots. Here’s how:

• Cultivate the garden and heavily sow a series of fast growing cover crops. Here is one example of a smother crop series- others end with a legume to add nitrogen in the fall and you can use other crops as well. Remember to water if needed.
• Do now - sow OATS. When they start to head out, mow and till them into the soil. That should be sometime in mid summer.
• Right after the oats are tilled in, sow buckwheat. As soon as the buckwheat starts to flower mow and till it in - probably in early fall.
• Right after the oats are tilled in - sow rye. Leave that over the winter. Let it come up in the spring. Mow and till it in before it flowers or when you are ready to work your garden- whichever comes first.
  

NOTE: If your garden is overcome by aggressive perennial weeds like comfrey you may have to repeat the smother crop cycle next year. But at the end of it you will have weed free and very rich soil. You can take that to the bank!

You can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/, or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Jim Kessler & Dorrie Mininger, Susquehanna County Master Gardeners
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Moss

All that grows green isn’t always something homeowners want in their lawn. Dandelions, white clover, ground ivy, perennial weeds, and all sorts of annual grasses are plants needing turf management. One of the first weeds to green-up in the spring is moss.

Many different species of moss can grow and persist in home lawns. Unlike seed-bearing plants, mosses produce spores that can be wind-blown from one area to another. Moss is an opportunistic plant that will develop and grow in bare soil areas or where lawns are weak and thin. Moss does not “crowd out” grass, but once it is established, grass plants will not spread into those areas.

Moss is very persistent and difficult to remove from a lawn unless an effort is made to promote a healthy, dense, actively-growing turf to take its place. Moss in lawns is usually the result of conditions that are not conducive to good growth of turf. It is most commonly associated with shallow, rocky soils; poor soil fertility; low soil pH (acid soils); heavy shade; and excessive moisture. If any of these factors are limiting turf growth, moss can invade the lawn and establish a permanent residence.

The first step in a moss control program is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Soil test kits are available from the Penn State Cooperative Extension office for a nominal fee. If the soil is deficient in nutrients or in need of liming, the soil test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply them.

If shade and/or moisture are the limiting factors for good turf growth, steps should be taken to correct the situation or plant grasses that are adapted to shaded or moist areas. The fine fescues are the best-adapted turfgrasses to shaded, well-drained soils, whereas, rough bluegrass is better adapted to shaded, moist soils.

Unfortunately, there are very few products that can be used to control moss. Products containing fertilizer and iron sulfate are sold at retail garden centers and can turn moss black and sometimes reduce encroachment Be sure to follow label directions so that these products are used safely and correctly. We have a free publication “Moss in the Lawn”. For a copy, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Also, on every Saturday now through May 22nd, we are having a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will be there from 11 am – 2 pm to answer your gardening questions. Plus at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This is free and open to the public.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Blueberries!

You’ve heard that blueberries are good for you, have you considered growing your own? It is not hard. Some of the varieties that have done well in our area are Patriot, Sunrise, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Chandler and Aurora. Blueberries are easy to grow if you do the proper soil preparation. Blueberries grow in soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.0. It is advised to get a soil test a year before you plant. Adjust the soil pH a year before you plant. When planting, mix peat moss in with the soil (50/50 mixture) you are filling in around the plant. Place about 3” of mulch around each plant. Replenish the mulch each spring as needed. No fertilizer is needed the first year. Apply fertilizer each May starting the second year. Remove all blossoms the first year and half of the blossoms the second year. This allows the plant to establish itself.

When the plants are around 5 years old you will need to prune out the largest canes. A rule of thumb is to remove one large old cane for every 6 canes the plant contains. If the plant has 12 canes, prune out the two oldest. Prune in March or April.

Be prepared to protect the fruit from birds. Blueberries will turn blue before their flavor is fully developed. Be patient. Let the fruit fully ripen before harvest.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu



John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.