Don't Bury Your Tree

In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.

First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org

The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.

Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.

The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.

For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org

Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Pantry Pests

Recently, two insects have been grabbing the headlines as their presence has been noticed: bedbugs and stinkbugs, and deservedly so. However, they have lots of company. With the nicer weather coming to a close, you will be spending more time indoors. You may start to see “flyers and crawlers” all sorts of other insects in your house. The most common are grouped together and called pantry pests.

Two important steps should be taken to manage them. First, don’t panic. What you see may not be as serious of a threat as bedbugs. Plus they are not always associated with unsanitary conditions. Most of these insects have hitched a ride in packaging material, boxes, and containers. Secondly, in order to solve the problem, the insect must be identified correctly. Please do not spray an insecticide as a first response. They are poisonous, and anything sprayed indiscriminately can contaminate food, containers, preparation surfaces, and pet areas. There may be safer ways to control pantry pests.

The most common insect pantry pest in Pennsylvania is the Indian meal moth. It prefers such foods as chocolate, dried fruits, bird feed, and dry dog food. A common flour, pasta and cereal pest is the saw-toothed grain beetle. Various other species of beetles are also common pantry pests and infest a wide variety of food items. Cigarette beetles and drugstore beetles are occasional pests, but they prefer dried plant materials such as herbs and spices. You may also come across carpet beetles, which feed on lint, hair, leather, and animal products. Larder beetles live on other dead insects, corn meal, and dry pet food.

The key to successful control is to find the source of infestation. Unless this is found, you will continue to see the insects. Finding insects in one area of the home does not mean the infestation is in that area. Many cereal pests can fly; therefore, you may see them in places distant from their breeding site. Pantry or stored product insects can feed on anything edible: cereals, various grains, crackers, spices, macaroni, dried fruit, chocolate, candy, nuts, dried peas or beans. Don't overlook pet foods such as bird seed, fish food, dog food and cat food.

Once you locate and eliminate all infested foods, the number of pests should decrease rapidly. Those you see will be adult beetles or moths looking for another food source in which to deposit their eggs. Store all pantry items in air-tight, hard plastic containers, jars, etc. Be sure to check cake mixes and other unopened items because they might also be infested. Thoroughly vacuum and wash cupboards, pantry shelves, floors, etc. to remove any spilled food stuffs. Insecticide sprays are of little value in controlling pantry pests when infested materials are removed and cracks and crevices are cleaned.

We have two publications to help manage pantry pests, ‘Identifying Common Household Pests’ and ‘Cereal and Pantry Pests’. Contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Emerald Ash Borer Moving toward NE PA

Forty-three counties are now under a quarantine intended to prevent the spread of the invasive, tree-killing Emerald Ash Borer (EAB). The PA Dept. of Agriculture’s quarantine area stretches from the Ohio border to Columbia, Lycoming, Northumberland, and Tioga counties in the northern half of the state and Cumberland, Franklin, and Perry farther south. To our east, the pest is in New York’s Hudson River Valley. Emerald Ash Borer beetles can kill an ash tree within three years and so they pose a serious threat to Pennsylvania’s nation-leading hardwoods industry, which contributes nearly $25 billion to the state’s economy.

We all are asked not to move ash nursery, green lumber, and any other ash material, including logs, stumps, roots and branches, from the quarantine area. Because it is difficult to distinguish between species of hardwood firewood, all hardwood firewood and wood chips—including ash, oak, maple and hickory—are considered quarantined. Here are some simple every day ways that you can help protect our urban, suburban, and forested areas:

• Buy and burn only locally cut firewood (within 50 miles of its source).
• Already have firewood from another area? BURN IT. Do not leave it. Do not take it with you.
• Keep an eye out for EAB in your area.

Emerald Ash Borer adults are dark green, one-half inch in length and one-eighth inch wide, and fly only from early May until September. Larvae spend the rest of the year beneath the bark of ash trees. When they emerge as adults, they leave D-shaped holes in the bark about one-eighth inch wide.

People who suspect they have seen Emerald Ash Borer should call the department’s toll-free pest hotline at 1-866-253-7189. For more information, visit Penn State’s EAB website at http://ento.psu.edu/extension/trees-shrubs/emerald-ash-borer; the National EAB website at http://www.emeraldashborer.info/; or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Purple Boxes and Emerald Ash Borer

Emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis) is an exotic, invasive wood-boring insect that is threatening to infest and kill all North American ash species from the genus Fraxinus, like Green Ash and White Ash (the more common ashes), as well as Black Ash and Blue Ash. The borer does NOT infest the unrelated American Mountain Ash, which is in the genus Pyrus. Government agency and Cooperative Extension staff have been monitoring the borer and trying to slow its movement across the USA since it was first sighted in Michigan in 2002. This week we would like to explain a bit about the purple monitoring boxes that you might see as you travel across the state and give you some tips on how you could help slow down the borer’s spread.

So, as for the boxes, we have been hearing some interesting stories about them. They range from “I have no idea what they do” to “they attract beetles that attack ash trees and kill the beetles.” To help clear things up below is some information from a blog maintained by Robert Hansen, Extension Forester, Tioga County Extension office. You can visit his blog at http://www.mypawoods.blogspot.com

The “Purple Boxes” are back in Pennsylvania’s landscape. Cooperating agencies have again hung the purple emerald ash borer “traps” in key areas of the state. Many of them are located along major roads and highways and parks (since people are one of the principle transporters of this insect). The traps are treated with a substance that attracts emerald ash borer to the trap where they get stuck on the sticky surface. Technicians will periodically check the traps for emerald ash borer adults.

Remember, these traps do not attract emerald ash borer into non-infested areas. The purpose of the traps is to determine if the insect is already present in the area. If you see these traps in your travels, please do not disturb them. They can best do their job if they are left undisturbed. And please encourage anyone who may mention them to you to please leave them alone.

If you suspect that you have seen emerald ash borer damage or an adult emerald ash borer, contact your local Cooperative Extension office, Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry office or Regional Pennsylvania Dept. of Agriculture office. For more information on emerald ash borer go to http://bradford.extension.psu.edu/nresources/forestry.html and scroll down to the emerald ash borer photo and click there. The purple boxes are not control measures. Their purpose is not to kill the beetles. Their purpose is to monitor to see if the beetle is in the area.

To keep up with up to date happenings about emerald ash borer and other forest related topics, visit Hansen’s blog listed above.

Now, here are some tips on how you could help slow the spread of the borer …

• Do not move firewood. That is one of the primary ways the emerald ash borer moves into uninfested areas. Buy your firewood locally when you get to your campsite.
• Do not plant ash trees.
• Monitor ash trees on your property and be prepared to remove if them if they become unhealthy or infested. We recommend that you use a certified arborist in your area. For help in finding a certified arborist visit the website www.PATrees.org or call your local extension office.

Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Blight

Here we are in the midst of summer. Perfect for picnics, all sorts of outside activities, and enjoying the freedom this season brings. We will be celebrating Independence Day and the weather forecast is great. The summer, so far, has been much better than last. Remember? Lots of rain, lower than average temperatures, and a disappointing growing season for the home gardener. Even worse, this time last year, we were plagued by late blight. While weather does play a part in the development of the disease, the pathogen, Phytophtora infestans, has to be present in order for late blight to develop.

In parts of Pennsylvania there have been confirmed cases of late blight. Late blight is a disease that can kill plants and wipe out crops in a few days if conditions favor disease growth. Those conditions described the 2009 growing season – cool to moderate temperatures with wet weather. Once you have seen late blight wipe out a garden or field, you begin to understand how important preventative measures are to protecting your home garden.

Late blight affects primarily potatoes and tomatoes, not other garden crops. Spores can blow for many miles, land on a wet tomato or potato leaf and start a new infection. So the disease can quickly spread from one garden to another. Infections can be prevented by regular spraying with fungicides containing chlorothalonil or mancozeb, but applications must begin before the disease gets started and continue through the growing season every 7 days to protect new growth. If weather is dry, you can stretch this interval; but if we have heavy rains, you may have to shorten it.

Gardeners should be spraying fungicides on their tomato and potato plants to prevent infection. Keep in mind that fungicides prevent infection they do not cure it. All plant surfaces should be covered with fungicide before conditions favor infection. Do not wait until after the rain stops to apply fungicides – they should be sprayed and dry before rain starts. Thorough coverage of all plant surfaces is needed for good control.

Remember, fungicides are to be used and handled according to labeled instructions. For more information on late blight, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Low Impact Weed Killing

Perennial weeds can be difficult to control. But waiting will only let the problem worsen.

Have just a few? When the soil is moist gently loosen the soil and gently pull from the bottom of the plant (yes, loosen and pull gently so you can get out as many roots as possible without breaking them off). Don’t be surprised if you have to “follow” the roots (loosening the soil along the way) while you pull - they can travel quite far! If the few perennial weeds you have are mixed in with other plants, you might try applying a nonselective herbicide when the weeds are actively growing. Paint it on with a brush so you do not kill the nearby plants with overspray. Repeat both methods as needed.

If you have a heavy weed problem and can do without the weedy area for the season, you could try solarization during the hot summer months. Water the area well. Cover the area with black plastic and secure the edges with soil, rocks, or earth staples (you can make them with wire hangers). Leave the plastic on for 60 days. The heat from the summer sun will sterilize the soil.

If you can leave the area fallow (with no garden plants) for the season AND would like to enrich your soil in the process, try smother cropping. This method basically starves out the weeds by planting another crop that shades out weeds combined with rapid harvest cycles that do not give the weeds time to replenish the food reserves in their roots. Here’s how:

• Cultivate the garden and heavily sow a series of fast growing cover crops. Here is one example of a smother crop series- others end with a legume to add nitrogen in the fall and you can use other crops as well. Remember to water if needed.
• Do now - sow OATS. When they start to head out, mow and till them into the soil. That should be sometime in mid summer.
• Right after the oats are tilled in, sow buckwheat. As soon as the buckwheat starts to flower mow and till it in - probably in early fall.
• Right after the oats are tilled in - sow rye. Leave that over the winter. Let it come up in the spring. Mow and till it in before it flowers or when you are ready to work your garden- whichever comes first.
  

NOTE: If your garden is overcome by aggressive perennial weeds like comfrey you may have to repeat the smother crop cycle next year. But at the end of it you will have weed free and very rich soil. You can take that to the bank!

You can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/, or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Jim Kessler & Dorrie Mininger, Susquehanna County Master Gardeners
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Mosquitoes

The signs of the season are upon us: the smell of charcoal grills, the new or refreshed lawn furniture, tiki torches, convertibles, short shorts, and tank tops. These are in addition to the buds and blooms forming on the landscape and filling the air with colors. We all know those long, hazy days have returned. Another telltale sign, that no one wants to see, is the ubiquitous mosquito. These pests stick their pointed “noses” all over us to remind us summer is back.

Worldwide, there are 3,000 species of mosquitoes, 200 in the United State, and about 60 in Pennsylvania. Beyond their annoying bites, the mosquito is a carrier of several diseases such as West Nile virus and encephalitis. The mosquito even puts our dogs at risk by transmitting canine heartworm disease. The mosquito most often discovered in urban areas of Pennsylvania is the northern house mosquito, Culex pipiens.

Adult female mosquitoes require a blood meal in order to produce viable eggs. While feeding, the females inject saliva-containing anticoagulants that prevent the blood from clotting. Because mosquitoes take numerous blood meals, they can acquire disease organisms from an infected host and later transmit those organisms to previously uninfected hosts.

With this in mind, it is important for the homeowner to take these steps to manage the effects mosquitoes can have on the quality of life:

Encourage indoor activities: The northern house mosquito is most active at dusk to dawn. Pennsylvanians with immune system deficiencies should try to limit outside activities to daylight hours. Likewise, parents of young children and infants should keep children inside during these same hours.

Eliminate standing water: This will reduce the number of potential mosquito breeding sites.
• Remove old tires, cans, buckets, pots, and similar items that can trap rainwater.
• Position tarps and boat covers to allow rain runoff and limit ‘ponding.’
• Turn plastic wading pools and wheelbarrows upside-down when not in use.
• Keep swimming pools chlorinated.

Exclusion: All doors and windows should fit tightly and remain closed during the peak mosquito activity. Replace screening that has holes or tears.

Effective Repellents: Materials containing DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) are effective in repelling mosquitoes. For more information on the safe use of insect and tick repellents, or other horticultural issues, contact the Penn State Master Gardner Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawnnaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Avoid Attracting Bears - Part II

In an article posted on May 5th, we listed five suggestions that could prevent attracting bears to your property. Here are some tips if you actually encounter a bear – whether in your garden or in the woods.

Stay Calm. If you see a bear and it hasn’t seen you, leave the area calmly. Talk or make noise while moving away to help it discover your presence. Choose a route that will not intersect with the bear if it is moving.

Get Back. If you have surprised a bear, slowly back away while talking softly. Face the bear, but avoid direct eye contact. Do not turn and run; rapid movement may be perceived as danger to a bear that is already feeling threatened. Avoid blocking the bear’s only escape route and try to move away from any cubs you see or hear. Do not attempt to climb a tree. A female bear may falsely interpret this as an attempt to get at her cubs, even though the cubs may be in a different tree.

Pay Attention. If a bear is displaying signs of nervousness – pacing, swinging its head, or popping its jaws – about your presence, leave the area. Some bears may bluff charge to within a few feet. If this occurs, stand your ground, wave your arms wildly, and shout at the bear. Turning and running could elicit a chase and you cannot outrun a bear.

Fight Back. If a bear attacks, fight back as you continue to leave the area. Black bears have been driven away with rocks, sticks, binoculars, car keys, or even bare hands.

To report nuisance bears, contact the Game Commission Region Office nearest you. The telephone numbers for the Northeast Region Office in Dallas, Luzerne County, is 570-675-1143.

More information on bears is available on the agency’s website (www.pgc.state.pa.us) by clicking on the “Wildlife” tab in the menu bar at the top of the homepage, and then selecting “Black Bears” From the “Mammals” section. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Groundhogs

Is it Punxsutawney Phil, the famous furry barometer, or maybe Gus the second most famous groundhog, you see scurry across your yard? Probably not, but as common as this long tailed rodent is seen, it would seem that Ground Hog’s Day happens seven days a week, all year long.

Marmota monax, the groundhog, also known as the woodchuck, is a chunky creature weighing up to 10 lbs. Its length ranges sixteen to twenty inches plus the tail, four to seven inches. While open farm land is their first choice, the groundhog has made a comfortable home in the suburban landscape where plenty of food and shelter make life easy for them. Often a groundhog will construct its burrow along stone walls, at the base of trees and even along a foundation.

Groundhog burrows can be identified by the large mound of excavated earth at the main entrance. On this mound, which is constantly renewed by debris from within, the groundhog frequently sits to look for danger. The entranceway is 10 to 12 inches in diameter, and they also have secondary entrances. These tend to be hidden and dug from below so mounds are not seen.

The groundhog can be the bane of most homeowners. The animal’s feeding and burrowing hab¬its conflict with human interests. Damage often occurs on farms, in home gardens, orchards, nurseries, around build¬ings. Damage to crops such as alfalfa, soybeans, beans, squash, tomatoes, and peas can be costly and extensive. A homeowner may lose his or her entire tomato patch. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs may be damaged by groundhog as they gnaw on woody vegetation. Mounds of earth from the excavated burrow systems and holes formed at burrow entrances present a hazard to farm equipment, animals and humans. On occasion, burrowing can building foundations.

In Pennsylvania, groundhogs are classified as game ani¬mals. Game protection is removed when they damage personal property. In that case, groundhogs can be controlled by the property owner using the lawful means. If a homeowner does not feel comfortable with any means of control, there are many wildlife pest control companies who can do this for you.

If the area is small, poultry wire or two inch woven mesh fencing can be installed. With three foot minimum above ground, the fence should have twelve inches buried in the ground, with six inches bent in an L shape pointing away.

Scarecrows can provide temporary relief from groundhog damage. Move them regularly and incorporate a high level of human activity in the susceptible area.

There are no repellents or toxicants that are for use on groundhogs. There are other products such as fumigants and gas cartridges available at home and garden centers which are labeled for use on groundhogs. Please carefully follow the directions as these are dangerous products.

There are live traps the homeowners can use as well. Place the trap near fresh damage or at the main entrance of the burrow. Use fresh bait such as apple slices, carrots, and lettuce. Be careful once the animal is trapped. Give some thought to a relocation area at least ten miles away and here the groundhog will not be the pest he was to you.

For more information on groundhogs or any other home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Purple Loosestrife

The color purple has substantial force associated with it. For ages in history, this hue has been the color of royalty. As an expensive dye, purple was only affordable to the elite. It has other connotations, such as religious clothing and decorations around holidays from Mardi Gras to Easter. This color has a special place in pop culture too, “The Color Purple” and “Purple Rain” are movies, plus countless songs.

In the home landscape, purple is a prominent color. Throughout the seasons, we can find various shades in perennials and annuals. Who doesn’t like seeing the hyacinth and crocus in the late winter? And the endless charm of Johnny Jump Ups, the tall purple coneflowers in the summer, and the purple winter creeper covering barren ground in the dead of cold are among the sights of purple’s majesty.

There is one purple threat though, Lythrum salicaria, or purple loosestrife. This invasive plant is an aggressive danger to wetlands. It replaces valuable native plants eliminating food and shelter for wildlife and can choke water ways. It offers no value to wildlife as it throttles the hiding and nesting areas of native species. Purple loosestrife can be found in all major watersheds in Pennsylvania and about half of the wetlands.
Compounding this dilemma, over the years some home owners have planted purple loosestrife in their gardens, attracted to its beauty and stature. Purple loosestrife can generate one million seeds in just one year. Plus it can grow from broken pieces left in moist areas and its underground root system.

To compound this purple threat, there are no native controls to hamper its spread. Purple loosestrife was introduced here from Europe in the 1800’s. As a result, all natural enemies, pests and diseases were left behind. An active part of controlling this noxious plant is active gardeners. As scouts and managers, they can be on the front line of defense. The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County are holding a workshop on purple loosestrife highlighting this struggle in Northeast Pa. It will be held Monday May 10th from 7:30 – 8:30 pm at the Moscow Borough Building, 124 Van Brunt St. Moscow. For more information on this or any other home horticulture topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Uninvited Guests: Squirrels

With winter fading away (we hope!) now is a good time to implement some of the squirrel management methods described below so you will be ready for next winter … and deal with any current squirrel issues!

During the cold winter months, wildlife such as tree squirrels sometimes find their way into buildings and homes through loose siding or ventilation screens, looking for a place to nest. Once inside, they can damage walls, insulation, and tendency to chew. In most cases, these squirrels can be managed using IPM tactics that are safe and effective.

Step 1 Pest Identification
The first step in wildlife pest management is identifying what type of squirrel is causing damage to your property. The eastern gray squirrel can range in color from black to silver with a white belly. They are 16 to 24 inches in length. Gray squirrels can be found in any area that has nuts and seeds, including urban backyards. Flying squirrels are smaller than other tree squirrels, between 8 and 10 inches in length. They vary in color from gray to brown, and have broad webs of skin connecting the fore and hind legs at the wrists and a flattened tail that allows them to glide from tree to tree. Squirrels can be found anywhere there is an ample supply of nuts and seeds.

Step 2 Prevention
There are many ways to prevent squirrel damage:

• Make your property less hospitable to wildlife pests by keeping the property clean and maintained.
• Trim trees and limbs to 6 to 8 feet away from buildings to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs.
• Exclude squirrels from inside buildings by using caulking or mesh to seal up holes where small animals could gain entry.
• Install fences around plants, trees and gardens to reduce their source of food.
  Place birdfeeders 15 to 30 feet from buildings.
• Consider removing birdfeeders if squirrels are a problem.
  

Step 3 Controlling Squirrels Safely
There are very few repellants currently available for use on squirrels and have a very limited success rate. In addition, there are no fumigants or toxicants federally registered for use on squirrels. Try these IPM methods instead:

• Frightening – Frighten squirrels by using loud noises or lights in attics or closets where they are nesting.
• Trapping – Use wire-cage and box traps to capture squirrels alive, baiting the traps with orange or apple slices, walnuts and pecans removed from the shell, or peanut butter. Check the traps twice a day and release the squirrel once exclusion tactics are used to secure the building.

For more information on squirrels and other wildlife pests, go the PA IPM Program Problem Solver at http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/441.htm. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Moss

All that grows green isn’t always something homeowners want in their lawn. Dandelions, white clover, ground ivy, perennial weeds, and all sorts of annual grasses are plants needing turf management. One of the first weeds to green-up in the spring is moss.

Many different species of moss can grow and persist in home lawns. Unlike seed-bearing plants, mosses produce spores that can be wind-blown from one area to another. Moss is an opportunistic plant that will develop and grow in bare soil areas or where lawns are weak and thin. Moss does not “crowd out” grass, but once it is established, grass plants will not spread into those areas.

Moss is very persistent and difficult to remove from a lawn unless an effort is made to promote a healthy, dense, actively-growing turf to take its place. Moss in lawns is usually the result of conditions that are not conducive to good growth of turf. It is most commonly associated with shallow, rocky soils; poor soil fertility; low soil pH (acid soils); heavy shade; and excessive moisture. If any of these factors are limiting turf growth, moss can invade the lawn and establish a permanent residence.

The first step in a moss control program is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Soil test kits are available from the Penn State Cooperative Extension office for a nominal fee. If the soil is deficient in nutrients or in need of liming, the soil test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply them.

If shade and/or moisture are the limiting factors for good turf growth, steps should be taken to correct the situation or plant grasses that are adapted to shaded or moist areas. The fine fescues are the best-adapted turfgrasses to shaded, well-drained soils, whereas, rough bluegrass is better adapted to shaded, moist soils.

Unfortunately, there are very few products that can be used to control moss. Products containing fertilizer and iron sulfate are sold at retail garden centers and can turn moss black and sometimes reduce encroachment Be sure to follow label directions so that these products are used safely and correctly. We have a free publication “Moss in the Lawn”. For a copy, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Also, on every Saturday now through May 22nd, we are having a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will be there from 11 am – 2 pm to answer your gardening questions. Plus at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This is free and open to the public.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Pruning Peach Trees

The best time to prune peach trees is the middle of April. Pruning earlier, before bud swell, makes the tree susceptible to damage from the disease cystospora canker. A pruned peach tree is less susceptible to the disease brown rot. Brown rot is that brown fuzzy disease that grows on peach fruit as it ripens.

A peach tree should have 3 or 4 main limbs called scaffolds. The tree should have a bowl shaped appearance when pruning is complete. Prune annually to ensure uniform growth and fruit production. Always use sharp, clean pruners.

First, remove broken or diseased branches. Second, cut out vigorous upright shoots that developed on the inside of the main limbs. This is referred to as open center pruning. Finally, once the 3 or 4 main scaffolds have developed, allow secondary branches to develop off of the main scaffolds. Secondary branches should be spaced about 8” apart. Continue to keep upright shoots from developing on the inside of the scaffold limbs. As the tree matures, head back or cut off the ends of secondary branches to a side shoot so new fruiting wood is encouraged to develop. Remove all pruned wood and decayed fruit from around the tree.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Save Your Trees, Your Back and Your Wallet From Mulch Volcanoes!

Spring time is right around the corner so it must be time to start piling on the mulch around our trees … right? Wrong! Mounds of mulch around the trunk encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. But, you say, professional landscapers do it so it must be beneficial! Sorry, not true. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make “mulch volcanoes” that can only harm your trees, not help them.

Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the root flare is the zone where the tree trunk turns into the root system and the flare should be right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees.

Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?

• Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
• Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree. The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
• Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
• Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.

For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org. Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Can't Stand Ants!

Even though winter is slow in leaving NEPA, the days are warming up. You may notice some unwelcome guests in and around your kitchen. Ants, like other insects, are cold blooded; so as the temperatures rise, so does their activity.

Ants infesting homes are ‘social’ insects, meaning they live in colonies. Colonies consist of thousands of ‘workers’ and one or more ‘queens’. The queens produce all the eggs in the nest. Eggs hatch into hungry larvae, which in turn become the wingless, worker females. These are the ants we see running around in our houses. The worker ants’ job is to go collect food for the other ants. When ants find a good source of food, they ‘tell’ their sisters in the colony by leaving a chemical trail for them to follow. This is why one or two ants quickly become a swarm.

SO if you can’t stand ants, here are some hints to manage them:

• Follow the ants’ trail to see to the food source and clean it up
• Follow the ants’ trail to see and plug the entry point in your house
• Ants leave a chemical trail so other worker ants can find the food source. Wipe up their path with soap and water or vinegar and water. Without the trail the ants will be lost
• Vacuum any worker ants stranded in the house
• If a chemical is necessary, use only enclosed bait traps. Look for ones containing borax or abamectin. Please read and follow the directions; remember, they are poison. Also do not use a spray to kill the ants. Air and food contamination are very likely.

While this information deals with the small nuisance ants, there are more serious species, such as carpenter ants and even termites. They need more aggressive attention. If you can’t stand ants, please contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at (570) 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce

Blueberries!

You’ve heard that blueberries are good for you, have you considered growing your own? It is not hard. Some of the varieties that have done well in our area are Patriot, Sunrise, Bluecrop, Bluejay, Chandler and Aurora. Blueberries are easy to grow if you do the proper soil preparation. Blueberries grow in soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.0. It is advised to get a soil test a year before you plant. Adjust the soil pH a year before you plant. When planting, mix peat moss in with the soil (50/50 mixture) you are filling in around the plant. Place about 3” of mulch around each plant. Replenish the mulch each spring as needed. No fertilizer is needed the first year. Apply fertilizer each May starting the second year. Remove all blossoms the first year and half of the blossoms the second year. This allows the plant to establish itself.

When the plants are around 5 years old you will need to prune out the largest canes. A rule of thumb is to remove one large old cane for every 6 canes the plant contains. If the plant has 12 canes, prune out the two oldest. Prune in March or April.

Be prepared to protect the fruit from birds. Blueberries will turn blue before their flavor is fully developed. Be patient. Let the fruit fully ripen before harvest.

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu



John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Winter-Damaged Trees

Snow and wind from recent winter storms can leave trees with broken limbs. So what do you do now? First ask yourself two questions:

Question 1. Is the tree worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it is a tree with brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. If you can see that the natural shape of the tree will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it. According to Penn State’s forest stewardship program a good way to judge whether a tree will survive storm damage is to look at the upper branches.

• If less than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a good chance of survival even though its growth may slow down while it recovers.
• If between 50 percent and 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree may survive. However, its wounds may provide entryways later for damaging insects and diseases, especially if large tops or large lower branches break, or if extensive areas of bark tear.
• If more than 75 percent of the crown is damaged, the tree has a low chance of survival.
  

Not sure if the tree is worth saving? Ask a professional (see below).

Question 2. Should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. Otherwise, you would be advised to seek out a professional. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.patrees.org/. This web site has lots of great tree related resources as well as a link to find a certified arborist by zip code (select “Finding an Arborist” on the left panel). Make sure the arborist carries proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Spiders... Friends or Foe?

There are many things that come across the Penn Master Gardener’s desk, pest or insect identification is one of the more unpredictable. Some are easy to identify, some have lots of legs and eyes and wings and segmented body parts, and some are just plain scary. One of the more misunderstood varieties is the spider. Are they really all that bad? Depends on whom you ask. It is important that any understanding must come from research based information.

As scary as these eight-legged creatures are, they are beneficial to us, our homes, and our gardens. In and around the house, spiders consume large amounts of other pests long before the human residents see them. Spiders are not a sign of poor housekeeping.

Most spiders indigenous to Pennsylvania will enter the home. Found often in crawl spaces and basements, the common house spider, Achaearanea tepidariorum, is known to cause grief. It frequently abandons one web to build a new one nearby and produces many webs in a short period of time.

Even though spiders can be helpful, it is unsettling to see them around. Consider preventative measures before reaching for the can of insecticide. Sprays are rarely effective in controlling the population, and are harmful indoors. Except in the rare occasion of a black widow or brown recluse (contact a registered insect control company or us about these two), there are easy steps you can take to manage these eight-footers.

• Vacuum - Instead of spraying vacuum both the webs and the spiders. The dust inside the bag will suffocate the spiders.
• Get rid of the web - If you can tolerate the idea of sharing your home with these beneficial bugs, you can just vacuum the web and leave the spiders to do their pest control work.
• Reduce their food supply – This time of year, most often fruit flies are the spiders’ meal. Keep fruit in a closed paper bag.
• Transplant – If you come across a spider, give it a change of scenery. Capture the spider in a container and release it outside.

Often misunderstood and intimidating, the spider is a good neighbor to have around. With some low impact management practices, we can have them working for us. For more information on spiders, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 and request “Commonly Encountered Pennsylvania Spiders.” This publication is also available in PDF format, email us at LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we can send it electronically.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.