Showing posts with label grass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label grass. Show all posts

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Clover

This Sunday was the day to “go green”! Being St. Patrick’s Day, whether you are of Irish decent or not, most people celebrate by wearing or displaying something green. In gardening, “going green” is often understood as using environmentally sound practices. It is worth considering, in light of it being March 17th, to blend the two meanings. Probably the most recognizable symbol of Ireland is the clover leaf. While it is rare to find a four leaf clover, the plant itself used to be a mainstay in the home lawn. Now, unfortunately, it is viewed as a weed.

White clover, also known as Dutch clover, has many benefits, and if you are trying to go green in your own landscape, it may be worthwhile adding it. Clover is lush, has a rich green hue, and has a low and dense growth habit. White clover makes even more sense in a home landscape, if you have large areas to mow, as it is a low maintenance ground cover. As water becomes a more precious resource, white clover is a good choice, because it can withstand a drought.

Some additional benefits to white clover are:
  • Grows four to eight inches high.
  • Tolerates low mowing.
  • Spreads to fill empty spaces, and looks best when blended with other grasses.
  • Tolerates dog urine better than grasses.
  • Great source of nitrogen for your lawn, cutting down on the need to fertilize.
White cover does have disadvantages though. It can be hard to find. Some garden centers sell forage types, like red clover. It does not hold up well to a lot of foot traffic, and the stains on clothing are difficult to remove. Depending on your particular circumstance, clover attracts honey and bumble bees, which can be a plus or a minus. If you want to promote native pollinators, white clover is an excellent feed source for them. It may be a concern if you are allergic to stings.

If you do choose to add white clover to your home lawn, remember not to use any kind of broad leaf herbicide. White clover is killed by these products. For more information on this or any other topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension  Lackawanna County

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Falling On Tough Times

It has been a difficult year for your lawn. Extended hot, dry periods in the summer after a very mild winter, as your turf grass was exposed to everything in between. Most people have found bare spots and weeds co-mingled with the grass. Fall is the perfect time to help your lawn recover and prepare for a better growing season next spring.

•Weed Control
Fall is a great time for weed management, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Identify the weeds, not all will survive the winter, or even heavy frost. Some will persist like dandelions, thistle, and bindweed. Use a product labeled for use on those specific weeds, and follow the directions. Herbicides are poison, and dangerous if mis-handled. Weeds compete with grass for food and nutrients so it is good for your lawn to manage weeds, but it is recommended to spot treat weeds. This means only using an herbicide in certain areas during the fall, unlike other times of the year where you would broadcast over the whole grass areas.


•Thatch Care
Thatch is a build-up of living and dead grass roots and stems between the soil and green grass blades. Some level of that is a good thing. The amount of thatch in the lawn may be checked by cutting three to four inches down into the grass with a shovel and lifting up a piece of sod. Thatch looks like a thick tangle of dark brown roots above the soil level. If thatch is greater than 1/2 inch, the lawn should be core aerated or de-thatched. Fall is an excellent time to de-thatch. In lawns with a thatch layer over 3/4 inch thick, you should aerate then topdress with a thin layer (1/8 to 1/4 inch) of soil or compost. Topdressing adds microorganisms that help breakdown thatch.


•Spot Cover
Fall is a great time to re-seed any bare spots in the lawn. Good soil contact is crucial for germination.  For small areas, use a rake to work up the soil so it is loose. For larger areas, a tiller may be necessary if the top few inches are compacted. Choose a perennial rye blend for best results. This selection has good heat and drought tolerance and grows quickly to fill in the empty areas.  Cover lightly with straw or some of the newer seed starter mulches available at your local garden center.


In addition to these steps, fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn. Consider a soil test kit to find out exactly what kinds of nutrients the turf will need. These kits are for sale in our office.


For more information on fall lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free packet of information on this topic. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for one. Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? We are having a fall training class beginning October 22, you can contact us for more information.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County