Clover

This Sunday was the day to “go green”! Being St. Patrick’s Day, whether you are of Irish decent or not, most people celebrate by wearing or displaying something green. In gardening, “going green” is often understood as using environmentally sound practices. It is worth considering, in light of it being March 17th, to blend the two meanings. Probably the most recognizable symbol of Ireland is the clover leaf. While it is rare to find a four leaf clover, the plant itself used to be a mainstay in the home lawn. Now, unfortunately, it is viewed as a weed.

White clover, also known as Dutch clover, has many benefits, and if you are trying to go green in your own landscape, it may be worthwhile adding it. Clover is lush, has a rich green hue, and has a low and dense growth habit. White clover makes even more sense in a home landscape, if you have large areas to mow, as it is a low maintenance ground cover. As water becomes a more precious resource, white clover is a good choice, because it can withstand a drought.

Some additional benefits to white clover are:

• Grows four to eight inches high.
• Tolerates low mowing.
• Spreads to fill empty spaces, and looks best when blended with other grasses.
• Tolerates dog urine better than grasses.
• Great source of nitrogen for your lawn, cutting down on the need to fertilize.

White cover does have disadvantages though. It can be hard to find. Some garden centers sell forage types, like red clover. It does not hold up well to a lot of foot traffic, and the stains on clothing are difficult to remove. Depending on your particular circumstance, clover attracts honey and bumble bees, which can be a plus or a minus. If you want to promote native pollinators, white clover is an excellent feed source for them. It may be a concern if you are allergic to stings.

If you do choose to add white clover to your home lawn, remember not to use any kind of broad leaf herbicide. White clover is killed by these products. For more information on this or any other topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension  Lackawanna County

Falling On Tough Times

It has been a difficult year for your lawn. Extended hot, dry periods in the summer after a very mild winter, as your turf grass was exposed to everything in between. Most people have found bare spots and weeds co-mingled with the grass. Fall is the perfect time to help your lawn recover and prepare for a better growing season next spring.

•Weed Control
Fall is a great time for weed management, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Identify the weeds, not all will survive the winter, or even heavy frost. Some will persist like dandelions, thistle, and bindweed. Use a product labeled for use on those specific weeds, and follow the directions. Herbicides are poison, and dangerous if mis-handled. Weeds compete with grass for food and nutrients so it is good for your lawn to manage weeds, but it is recommended to spot treat weeds. This means only using an herbicide in certain areas during the fall, unlike other times of the year where you would broadcast over the whole grass areas.

•Thatch Care
Thatch is a build-up of living and dead grass roots and stems between the soil and green grass blades. Some level of that is a good thing. The amount of thatch in the lawn may be checked by cutting three to four inches down into the grass with a shovel and lifting up a piece of sod. Thatch looks like a thick tangle of dark brown roots above the soil level. If thatch is greater than 1/2 inch, the lawn should be core aerated or de-thatched. Fall is an excellent time to de-thatch. In lawns with a thatch layer over 3/4 inch thick, you should aerate then topdress with a thin layer (1/8 to 1/4 inch) of soil or compost. Topdressing adds microorganisms that help breakdown thatch.

•Spot Cover
Fall is a great time to re-seed any bare spots in the lawn. Good soil contact is crucial for germination.  For small areas, use a rake to work up the soil so it is loose. For larger areas, a tiller may be necessary if the top few inches are compacted. Choose a perennial rye blend for best results. This selection has good heat and drought tolerance and grows quickly to fill in the empty areas.  Cover lightly with straw or some of the newer seed starter mulches available at your local garden center.

In addition to these steps, fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn. Consider a soil test kit to find out exactly what kinds of nutrients the turf will need. These kits are for sale in our office.

For more information on fall lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free packet of information on this topic. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for one. Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? We are having a fall training class beginning October 22, you can contact us for more information.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Lawn Herbicide and Trees

Watch for Possible Broadleaf Lawn Herbicide Injury to Trees
Damage to trees due to broadleaf lawn herbicides is a rare event; but when it does occur, it can create a lot of anxiety and customer dissatisfaction. This year, damage has been observed on certain tree species (primarily Norway spruce and white pine) following spring applications of a new herbicide called Imprelis. Pete Landschoot, Professor of Turfgrass Science, recently provided an update on this situation. Here’s a brief summary of his report.

Effects on trees:
First, not all applications of Imprelis result in tree injury. The recently observed injury seems to be related to the soaking spring rains we experienced in April and May. We are not aware of any tree injury following fall applications.

In cases where injury did occur, symptoms to Norway spruce began as yellowing, curling, and browning of the current season’s growth. In some cases, injury does not progress much further than slight curling and browning of new growth; however, in other cases complete dieback is observed. In severe cases, the entire tree turns brown and begins to lose its needles. Trees of all ages have been affected to varying degrees. White pine injury appears as severe twisting and curling followed by needle drop of the new season’s growth. Because of the spiral pattern of the vascular system in many conifers, damage from herbicide uptake may even appear as a spiral on foliage.

What can be done about injured trees?
Since a number of factors can cause symptoms similar to Imprelis injury it’s important to make sure tree injury is a result of herbicide uptake. Call a qualified arborist or bring in samples to your local Penn State Extension office.

In cases where injury is clearly herbicide induced, do not fertilize trees for at least one growing season (excess growth can compound injury). If drought begins to set in, watering to alleviate stress may be useful on trees that received slight to moderate damage. Place a soaker hose on the soil near the trunk of injured Norway spruce trees that have low hanging branches. This allows slow irrigation of the soil directly under the tree, and reduces the risk of additional active ingredient being taken up by the tree. On trees with dieback, pruning should be delayed for up to a year to fully assess the extent of the damage, and to allow for recovery.

Penn State Cooperative Extension will provide updates as more information becomes available. To find the latest updates go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and search on the term Imprelis.

To read Dr. Landschoot’s full article go to http://extension.psu.edu/greenindustry/giec/news/2011/some-observations-on-imprelis-injury-to-trees Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Skunk Control

The lushness of the seasons is finally upon us. The trees gently shading us with their green canopies. The rhododendrons are in full bloom, whites, subtle purples, and the reds of the related azaleas welcome us home. Even the dandelions tease us with a cheery carpet of yellow. Two colors though, should serve as a warning: black and white. A dangerous combination, more often “scented” than seen, the mephitis mephitis, the striped skunk is a common visitor to our yard.

Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if these are evident and excessive.

Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.

Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live; as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.

Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert. For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of our Skunks Wildlife Control publication.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

When Good Lawns Go Bad

Most homeowners take great pride in the lush green grass carpeting their landscape. Equaling their pride, is the effort put into maintaining their turf. Fertilizing, feeding, weeding, mowing, and more is part chore and part enjoyment. Conversely, it is discouraging to see your lawn browning despite your best efforts. So what is a homeowner to do when good lawns go bad?

First you should determine the cause. Factors in turf deterioration might be tree root competition, soil compaction, excessive shade, and the wrong type of grass planted. Obvious right now is the lack of rain and high heat. The best thing for the grass in times like these is to do nothing. And here are a few more tips to help your lawn though the dry spells.

Walk on it as little as possible. Don’t play on it. Don’t fertilize it either. Find something else to do around your yard. Most turf grasses suited for this area undergo a dormancy when it is hot and dry. It is not recommended to water the lawn. Water restrictions may be put in place, plus imprecise watering can lead to weakened plants, pests, and lessening the ability to recover.

Mow high and less frequently, all season long. Taller grass blades shade the root system and crowd out weeds. Never remove more than one third of the plant when you mow. Keep your equipment in top shape. If you have used your mower more than about eight hours, sharpen the blades. Otherwise the mower will tear the grass causing browning, and leading to diseases. Lawns mowed with dull blades use thirty per cent more water.

Leave the clippings. Nature and earthworms will incorporate the cut grass into the soil. They break down quickly helping both drainage and moisture retention.

Remember, when your pet needs a pit stop, help them find another place to go. This time of year the salt in a dog’s urine can damage the grass.

Home lawns represent 70% of Pennsylvania's 2,000,000 acres of turfgrass. Lawns increase the property value of homes, stabilize soils, and give us something to do early Saturday mornings. Studies have shown as little as a quarter inch of rain in three weeks time is enough for the grass to survive. By managing it year-round, and protecting it during the vulnerable times, you can enjoy your lawn for years to come.

For more information on lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publications Lawn Management Through the Seasons and Renovation of Lawns. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Moss

All that grows green isn’t always something homeowners want in their lawn. Dandelions, white clover, ground ivy, perennial weeds, and all sorts of annual grasses are plants needing turf management. One of the first weeds to green-up in the spring is moss.

Many different species of moss can grow and persist in home lawns. Unlike seed-bearing plants, mosses produce spores that can be wind-blown from one area to another. Moss is an opportunistic plant that will develop and grow in bare soil areas or where lawns are weak and thin. Moss does not “crowd out” grass, but once it is established, grass plants will not spread into those areas.

Moss is very persistent and difficult to remove from a lawn unless an effort is made to promote a healthy, dense, actively-growing turf to take its place. Moss in lawns is usually the result of conditions that are not conducive to good growth of turf. It is most commonly associated with shallow, rocky soils; poor soil fertility; low soil pH (acid soils); heavy shade; and excessive moisture. If any of these factors are limiting turf growth, moss can invade the lawn and establish a permanent residence.

The first step in a moss control program is to test the soil for nutrient content and pH. Soil test kits are available from the Penn State Cooperative Extension office for a nominal fee. If the soil is deficient in nutrients or in need of liming, the soil test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply them.

If shade and/or moisture are the limiting factors for good turf growth, steps should be taken to correct the situation or plant grasses that are adapted to shaded or moist areas. The fine fescues are the best-adapted turfgrasses to shaded, well-drained soils, whereas, rough bluegrass is better adapted to shaded, moist soils.

Unfortunately, there are very few products that can be used to control moss. Products containing fertilizer and iron sulfate are sold at retail garden centers and can turn moss black and sometimes reduce encroachment Be sure to follow label directions so that these products are used safely and correctly. We have a free publication “Moss in the Lawn”. For a copy, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Also, on every Saturday now through May 22nd, we are having a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will be there from 11 am – 2 pm to answer your gardening questions. Plus at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This is free and open to the public.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
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