Carpenter Ants

With the level of rain exceeding normal limits and the limits of a gardener’s patience, comes concerns about the vitality of the home landscape. Too much water brings disease and decay which in turn may attract pests, such as the black carpenter ant.

In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.

They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.

The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.

The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.

Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.

The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.

To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.

If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.

For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners

I know, making New Year’s resolutions is so two weeks ago … but hey, there’s still time to make some resolutions that will give you a healthier garden, help protect your family and the environment, and (without having to make another resolution) probably help you lose a few pounds along the way!

Here are 12 resolutions for the coming year, adapted from a list developed by Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor from the University of Vermont.

1. Start a compost pile for leaves, plant residues, and kitchen scraps to be mixed in your soil as compost or around your plants as mulch to enrich your garden and improve plant growth.
2. Use biological controls whenever feasible for insects and diseases in the garden, starting with planting pest-resistant varieties.
3. Apply pesticides (whether conventional or organic) only as a last resort and always use them safely and prudently.
4. Store all garden chemicals (pesticides, fertilizers, etc.) in their original containers, out of reach of children and pets, and preferably in a locked storage area.
5. Use fertilizers only as indicated by soil tests, and use organic forms whenever possible.
6. Mow properly (often, not too high or low), and set up your mower to “leave grass clippings lay” (or compost them) so they will recycle organic matter and nutrients back into the soil.
7. Conserve water by mulching, using efficient watering methods such as drip irrigation systems, and selecting drought-resistant ornamental plants.
8. Develop a landscape plan that works with the environment, for example, ground covers on steep banks to prevent soil erosion and shade trees on the sunny side of a home to act as a natural air conditioner. Landscaping also can help reduce temperature extremes, filter out air pollutants, and stop noise.
9. Create natural wildlife habitats by planting trees and shrubs that provide food or cover or by leaving brush and undergrowth in certain areas for birds, rabbits, and other small animals to use as a protective haven.
10. Provide food and water for the birds and to continue to feed them once they have come to depend on you.
11. Establish and maintain pollinator-friendly plantings and use gardening methods that protect and nurture both “wild” and managed pollinators.
12. Encourage others, whenever possible, to do all they can to help preserve the environment and our natural resources.

If you have questions, contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Pantry Pests

Recently, two insects have been grabbing the headlines as their presence has been noticed: bedbugs and stinkbugs, and deservedly so. However, they have lots of company. With the nicer weather coming to a close, you will be spending more time indoors. You may start to see “flyers and crawlers” all sorts of other insects in your house. The most common are grouped together and called pantry pests.

Two important steps should be taken to manage them. First, don’t panic. What you see may not be as serious of a threat as bedbugs. Plus they are not always associated with unsanitary conditions. Most of these insects have hitched a ride in packaging material, boxes, and containers. Secondly, in order to solve the problem, the insect must be identified correctly. Please do not spray an insecticide as a first response. They are poisonous, and anything sprayed indiscriminately can contaminate food, containers, preparation surfaces, and pet areas. There may be safer ways to control pantry pests.

The most common insect pantry pest in Pennsylvania is the Indian meal moth. It prefers such foods as chocolate, dried fruits, bird feed, and dry dog food. A common flour, pasta and cereal pest is the saw-toothed grain beetle. Various other species of beetles are also common pantry pests and infest a wide variety of food items. Cigarette beetles and drugstore beetles are occasional pests, but they prefer dried plant materials such as herbs and spices. You may also come across carpet beetles, which feed on lint, hair, leather, and animal products. Larder beetles live on other dead insects, corn meal, and dry pet food.

The key to successful control is to find the source of infestation. Unless this is found, you will continue to see the insects. Finding insects in one area of the home does not mean the infestation is in that area. Many cereal pests can fly; therefore, you may see them in places distant from their breeding site. Pantry or stored product insects can feed on anything edible: cereals, various grains, crackers, spices, macaroni, dried fruit, chocolate, candy, nuts, dried peas or beans. Don't overlook pet foods such as bird seed, fish food, dog food and cat food.

Once you locate and eliminate all infested foods, the number of pests should decrease rapidly. Those you see will be adult beetles or moths looking for another food source in which to deposit their eggs. Store all pantry items in air-tight, hard plastic containers, jars, etc. Be sure to check cake mixes and other unopened items because they might also be infested. Thoroughly vacuum and wash cupboards, pantry shelves, floors, etc. to remove any spilled food stuffs. Insecticide sprays are of little value in controlling pantry pests when infested materials are removed and cracks and crevices are cleaned.

We have two publications to help manage pantry pests, ‘Identifying Common Household Pests’ and ‘Cereal and Pantry Pests’. Contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Protecting your Landscape from Deer

Now is a good time to protect your garden labors from deer. Here are some tips from Penn State horticulture professor Jim Sellmer.

Unless you have to protect large areas of new growth an economical approach to deer-proofing both new and mature trees and shrubs is individual fencing. A deer can reach over fencing, so make sure it is high enough; several feet higher that any tree or shrub that is less than 3 feet tall. Place fence posts about 4 feet from the tree or shrub to prevent deer from leaning over the fence. Attach plastic or woven wire mesh to the stakes. Inspect your fence at least once per week, especially after a heavy snowfall. Once the snow hardens, you may need to make your fences taller.

An alternative to fencing is the use of chemical deer repellents. Be aware that most repellents wash off from rain or snow and extremely hungry deer won’t be deterred. Repellents will need to be applied routinely but can be made from household items, such as a mixture of spoiled eggs and water, or purchased from garden centers. Deer become tolerant to the taste and smell of repellents, so switching the repellent type is important during the season.

An easier approach to fighting deer is to plant trees and shrubs that deer don’t find delicious, but please remember that no plant can be entirely deer-proof. For a comprehensive list of deer resistant plants compiled by Penn State extension educator Linda Wiles go to: http://monroe.extension.psu.edu/Horticulture/deer/index.html.

For the complete article by Sellmer visit the web at http://live.psu.edu/story/35640

If you have any gardening questions please call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County