Carpenter Ants

With the level of rain exceeding normal limits and the limits of a gardener’s patience, comes concerns about the vitality of the home landscape. Too much water brings disease and decay which in turn may attract pests, such as the black carpenter ant.

In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.

They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.

The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.

The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.

Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.

The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.

To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.

If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.

For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Burn Dry Wood to Stay Warm, Save Money, and Be Safe

As you relax in front of your Yule Log this week, enjoying both its warmth and the savings that it brings to you, take a moment now to plan on making next year’s firewood 20 proof or less. You might ask- what does that mean and why should I care? Well, wood that is greater than 20% moisture content (or proof) will not burn efficiently, and that will mean wasted heat and increased risk of a chimney fire.

OK, so how do you get your wood down to 20 proof or less? By giving it time and space to dry; here’s how:

1. Nine to 12 months before you need the firewood- cut, split, and stack wood in piles that are one log deep and spaced one log length apart.
2. Cover the top of the pile with plastic to keep the rain out and keep the bottom layer up off the ground to increase air circulation (which also helps keep snakes away).

And in the fall, use your kitchen oven and some math to measure your wood’s moisture content; to determine what “proof” it is.

Cut a small (1” thick) piece from the middle of several logs from different sections of the pile. Use a kitchen scale to determine the fresh weight (in ounces) and then record it for each piece. Dry the pieces in your oven set at 200 to 250 degrees until their weight no longer changes; that could take 12-24 hours. Weigh each piece again and record the dry weight of each piece. The difference between each piece’s fresh and dry weights tells you how much water was in the wood. Divide the weight of the water by the dry weight of the wood to find the moisture content of the wood in your pile. Wood is ready to burn when the moisture content is 20 percent or less.

For example, for each piece subtract its dry weight (let’s say 5 ounces) from its fresh weight (say 5 ¾ ounces), then divide the answer (3/4 or 0.75) by the dry weight (5) and multiply that answer (0.15) by 100 (equals 15 proof wood). So … the math formula would be [(5.75 – 5)/5]*100 = 15 proof wood. This wood is dry enough to burn.

Tip for parents- Clip and save this article for the next time your kids ask you what good is math anyway. Being able to do the math above promotes efficient wood burning that helps the environment, saves you money, and reduces chances of a chimney fire!

See many more tips on Forest Stewardship at http://vip.cas.psu.edu/News.html or call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County