Don't Bury Your Tree

In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.

First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org

The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.

Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.

The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.

For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org

Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Low Impact Weed Killing

Perennial weeds can be difficult to control. But waiting will only let the problem worsen.

Have just a few? When the soil is moist gently loosen the soil and gently pull from the bottom of the plant (yes, loosen and pull gently so you can get out as many roots as possible without breaking them off). Don’t be surprised if you have to “follow” the roots (loosening the soil along the way) while you pull - they can travel quite far! If the few perennial weeds you have are mixed in with other plants, you might try applying a nonselective herbicide when the weeds are actively growing. Paint it on with a brush so you do not kill the nearby plants with overspray. Repeat both methods as needed.

If you have a heavy weed problem and can do without the weedy area for the season, you could try solarization during the hot summer months. Water the area well. Cover the area with black plastic and secure the edges with soil, rocks, or earth staples (you can make them with wire hangers). Leave the plastic on for 60 days. The heat from the summer sun will sterilize the soil.

If you can leave the area fallow (with no garden plants) for the season AND would like to enrich your soil in the process, try smother cropping. This method basically starves out the weeds by planting another crop that shades out weeds combined with rapid harvest cycles that do not give the weeds time to replenish the food reserves in their roots. Here’s how:

• Cultivate the garden and heavily sow a series of fast growing cover crops. Here is one example of a smother crop series- others end with a legume to add nitrogen in the fall and you can use other crops as well. Remember to water if needed.
• Do now - sow OATS. When they start to head out, mow and till them into the soil. That should be sometime in mid summer.
• Right after the oats are tilled in, sow buckwheat. As soon as the buckwheat starts to flower mow and till it in - probably in early fall.
• Right after the oats are tilled in - sow rye. Leave that over the winter. Let it come up in the spring. Mow and till it in before it flowers or when you are ready to work your garden- whichever comes first.
  

NOTE: If your garden is overcome by aggressive perennial weeds like comfrey you may have to repeat the smother crop cycle next year. But at the end of it you will have weed free and very rich soil. You can take that to the bank!

You can find answers to many gardening questions at our consumer horticulture web site: http://consumerhorticulture.psu.edu/, or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Jim Kessler & Dorrie Mininger, Susquehanna County Master Gardeners
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
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