Save your trees, your back and your wallet from mulch volcanoes!

In my March 20th article I wrote about early spring mulching tasks to do that would help your garden grow. Today I want to talk a bit about a popular mulching practice NOT to do - those huge “mulch volcanoes” that you see around trees. They are a waste of money and harmful to trees. But you ask – I see them around trees maintained by professional landscapers?! Yes, that’s true, and landscapers should know better. Intrigued? … please read on! Mounds of mulch around tree trunks encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make mulch volcanoes that can only harm your trees, not help them. Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the “root flare” is the zone where the tree trunk widens out a bit as it turns into the root system and the flare should be visible right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted (or has sunk) too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees. Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?

• Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.


• Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree (where the branches farthest from the trunk end). The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.


• Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.


• Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.

For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Gardeners Have Mulch To Do In Early Spring

There isn't a lot you can do in a Pennsylvania flower garden on a March day, even if it's sunny and warm. But Robert Berghage, associate professor of horticulture in the College of Agricultural Sciences, recommends spreading mulch to delay plant emergence as long as possible.

"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."

Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.

Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.

"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."

Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.

"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."

If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

The A B Cs of Fall Gardening

A is for Assessing and Analyzing

• What worked well this year? Was there a type of plant or vegetable that grew well, were there disappointments? We had a very dry year, some things survived the drought. In comparison, last year we had too much rain. Making notes of the strengths and weakness of your gardening efforts and then reviewing them in the Spring will help make your garden successful and enjoyable. Consider making a photo record too, digital pictures are easy to take and transfer to your computer, along with notes, and resources.
• Have you had a soil test recently? Whether you are planting perennials, annuals, bulbs, or lawns, the nutrients are depleted over time. Fall is the perfect time to have the soil tested and amended so it will produce the best results for you. Soil test Kits are available for $9.00 at the Penn State Extension office.

B is for Bulbs and Birds

• “Bulbs” is an inclusive term describing a variety of fleshy underground matter that includes true bulbs like tulips, corms such as crocus, and rhizomes for example: lily of the valley and bearded iris. Spring flowering bulbs need full sun, well drained soil, but only minimal care. These bulbs, once they start to show, serve as reminders that better and nicer days are ahead. Years of selection and breeding have provided spectacular color and disease resistant varieties.
  
• There are approximately thirty-five species of birds that can be seen in your yard in the winter time. Think about a family project of attracting birds and caring for them during the harsh months of the year. With the right feed and feeders, birds will provide entertainment, action and color. Bird watching, indentifying, and journaling them are good ways to pass the dreary days of winter. So take some time in the fall to select a good feeder, provide shelter and water for them.

C is for Cleaning and Composting

• As the growing season slows down, less time is required to maintain the home landscape. Now is a good time to clean up while the weather is still nice. Take some time to edge around your plantings, remove any weeds and take out any insect eggs, nests, and debris. Taking them out now will prevent hundreds of seeds germinating in the Spring. Trim back any damaged limbs and branches. Sanitize and oil all your garden tools to prevent disease and corrosion. While you should continue to mow your grass, remember your mower should also be prepared properly for the winter. Change the oil and filter; check the plug, and lastly, drain the fuel. Doing all of this will extend the life of the mower and improve its performance.
• Your way of recycling naturally: start a compost pile with grass clippings and spent plants as you clean up your vegetable garden. You can also add the used potting soil from your container plantings. With the onslaught of falling leaves, they can be shredded with your mower and added to the compost pile too.
  

For more or specific information on fall garden care and other topics, please contact the Penn State Master Garden helpline at (570) 963- 6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Tomatoes, 2010

In just a few weeks it will be time to plant tomatoes. When you buy transplants, choose plants that have a nice green color on the lower leaves. Choose plants with a thick stem. Avoid plants that have blossoms or small fruit unless they were grown in a 6” pot or larger. If you have not added calcium lime for a few years, apply it when you till your soil. Lime will help prevent the tomato fruit from getting blossom end rot. When you transplant tomatoes into the garden, plant them deep. Tomatoes will develop roots from the parts of the stem that are underground. Apply fertilizer soon after planting.

We are concerned about late blight being a problem in tomatoes again this summer. The summer weather will determine if late blight will be a problem in 2010 or not. It has been a problem for growers in Florida again this winter. If we have a cool wet summer, expect late blight to be active. Late blight does not do well when the weather is hot and dry. Fungicides containing chlorothalonil are effective at protecting tomatoes. If you use a fungicide, it will have to be on the foliage before the blight attacks and thorough leaf coverage is critical.

Also, every Saturday, through May 22nd, we are offering a Spring into Gardening Workshop at Bill’s Ace Hardware, Route 435 Daleville, PA. The Master Gardeners will answer your gardening questions from 11 am – 2 pm. Plus, at noon we will have demonstrations on various seasonal topics. This program is free and open to the public. Here are the upcoming topics:

• May 1st - lawn care basics
• May 8th - landscaping for the birds
• May 15th - composting
• May 22nd - home food preservation basics
  
  

For more information contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County call 963-6842 and ask for the Garden Helpline or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


John Esslinger, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

Save Your Trees, Your Back and Your Wallet From Mulch Volcanoes!

Spring time is right around the corner so it must be time to start piling on the mulch around our trees … right? Wrong! Mounds of mulch around the trunk encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. But, you say, professional landscapers do it so it must be beneficial! Sorry, not true. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make “mulch volcanoes” that can only harm your trees, not help them.

Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the root flare is the zone where the tree trunk turns into the root system and the flare should be right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees.

Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?

• Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
• Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree. The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
• Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
• Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.

For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org. Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.

New Year Resolutions for the Garden

Looking for a different New Year's resolution this year? How about choosing from some that will help your garden and landscape grow better and healthier? Pick one or more from the list below, courtesy of Jeff Rugg, University of Illinois Extension unit horticulture educator. Here goes ...

I resolve to:
• Add more mulch to my flower beds where it will decrease weeds, saving me money on weed killers and protecting the environment from useless applications.
• Remove the mulch from around the trunks of my trees. Mulch piled on a tree trunk doesn't help the tree, but kills it.
• Save time and money by pruning my trees and shrubs in their natural shapes, and NOT topping them.
• Find out what disease or insect is affecting my plant before I treat my yard with incorrect and ineffective poisons. Saying 'It can't hurt' isn't really true.
• Mow my grass at a higher height. The longer leaves support a better root system, so the grass needs less water and fights weeds better.
• Start a compost pile and add to it regularly so that I don't waste money buying compost to add to my garden.
• Take my power tools and lawnmower to the appropriate outlet for servicing and sharpening. Properly adjusted tools pollute less and sharp tools work better, making them safer.
• Order more catalogs from www.mailordergardening.com, as it is the most comprehensive list of gardening catalogs.
• And most importantly, enjoy my garden by eating outside more often, strolling through the yard to smell the flowers without pulling any weeds, and having at least one party with family and friends so they can enjoy the garden too.

If you have any gardening questions please call your county extension office. In Lackawanna County call our garden help line at 963-6842 ext. 1377 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Penn State is committed to affirmative action, equal opportunity, and the diversity of its workforce.