Caring for Your Daffodils

What’s not to like about daffodils? They are easy to plant, require little care, and bloom dependably. Plus, daffodils are vigorous signs winter is just about over. Despite the wide ranging temperatures and conditions, they still put on a beautiful show for us. While nearly foolproof, there are still some issues with them.

•The  daffodils have foliage, but few or no blooms:
This could be for two reasons, the foliage may have been cut back before it turned completely brown and died back; or, there was not enough sunlight.

If the daffodils aren’t blooming, the plants weren’t able to store enough food in their bulbs in the previous year. Daffodil foliage typically persists for four to six weeks after blooming. During this four to six week period, the daffodil foliage is manufacturing food. Much of the food is transported down to the bulbs. In order to bloom, daffodils must store adequate levels of food in their bulbs. Cutting off the foliage before it has died back naturally may prevent the plants from storing adequate food in the bulbs. Allow the daffodil foliage to die completely before removing it. Plants in partial shade in May and June may not be able to store enough food in their bulbs because of insufficient sunlight. Dig up daffodils growing in partial shade when the foliage has died back and plant the bulbs in a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun per day. If given good care and favorable growing conditions, weak (non-blooming) daffodils can be encouraged to flower again.

•The daffodils need to be moved:
Daffodils can be dug up and replanted as soon as the foliage dies back (turns brown) in late spring/early summer. Daffodils can also be dug up and replanted in fall (October). If you would like to move daffodil bulbs in fall, mark the site when the foliage is present so the bulbs can be located in October. Daffodils perform best when planted in a well-drained soil in partial to full sun. The planting site should receive at least six hours of direct sun per day.

•The foliage looks messy and is falling over:
Daffodil foliage tends to get floppy and look a little unruly. However, it’s best to leave the foliage alone and not tie or braid the leaves. The daffodil foliage manufactures food for the plant. Adequate amounts of food must be stored in the bulbs in order for the daffodils to bloom the following spring. Tying the leaves together with rubber bands or braiding the foliage reduces the leaf area exposed to sunlight. As a result, the leaves manufacture smaller amounts of food. Plus, tying or braiding the foliage is a time-consuming chore. 

•The daffodils  are weak looking, have blighted leaves, or no growth at all:
Few insects and diseases plague daffodils. Excessive amounts of water or poorly drained soils are the biggest threat to the bulbs. Plant them in well-drained soil. This is especially true during the summer when the daffodils are dormant. Soft, rotting bulbs are a sign of too much water. Too much fertilizer can damage the bulbs as well. Throw away, do not compost, any bulbs that are diseased to avoid spreading.

For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free fact sheet on daffodil care. For a copy, please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County