Winter Injury

Phil made his predication a couple weeks ago that we will have an early spring, and it seems that so far the indications are true. We have had a string of warmer weather. The days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger. As much as most of us would like this season to be over, the pattern is that this is just a tease. As tough as these long winters are on us, it is much rougher on the home landscape.

Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Gourds

The rush of the first holiday of the season is over. Halloween is gone and all of the candy is too. The pumpkins and jack-o-lanterns are now part of the compost pile. However, with Thanksgiving a few weeks away, most people keep gourds around as decorations. They are ideal color for the whole fall season, as they do not rot like pumpkins. Also you may want to consider drying, or more precisely curing gourds to make them last even longer.

Curing gourds is a two-step process which may take 1 to 6 months depending on the type and size of the gourd. Surface drying is the first step in the curing process, and takes approximately one week. During this time, the skin hardens and the exterior color of the gourd is set. Place clean, dry fruit in a dark, well-ventilated area. Arrange gourds in a single layer and make certain that the fruits do not touch each other. A cooling rack will allow air circulation around the gourds. Check gourds daily and discard fruit that show signs of decay or mold and any that develop soft spots.

Internal drying is the second step in curing and takes a minimum of four weeks. Keep the gourds in shallow containers in a dark, warm, well-ventilated area. If any mold appears on the outside skin, gourds can be wiped clean and allowed to continue drying. However, any gourds that become decayed, shriveled or misshapen should be discarded. Periodically turn the fruit to discourage shriveling and promote even curing. Providing warmth during the internal curing process will accelerate drying and discourage decay. Adequate curing is achieved when the gourd becomes light in weight and the seeds can be heard rattling inside.

Once well cured, gourds may be waxed, shellacked or painted. A high-grade transparent furniture or floor wax is preferred to shellac or varnish because the latter may change the natural color. Dried gourds can be used for bird houses, bowls and planters. Decorating them with non-toxic craft paints is a great kid’s project. With some imagination, cured gourds can be painted for any holiday.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the publication ‘Growing and Curing Gourds in the Home Garden’, for a copy, contact us at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County