With the level of rain exceeding normal limits and the limits of a gardener’s patience, comes concerns about the vitality of the home landscape. Too much water brings disease and decay which in turn may attract pests, such as the black carpenter ant.
In nature, they aid in the decomposition of dead, decaying trees and nest in logs, stumps, and hollow trees. These insects are useful outside for that purpose, but are a nuisance and a sign of potential problems if seen in the home.
They often invade homes in search of food. These ants seldom tunnel into dry, sound wood, but are attracted to moisture-damaged wood, and other soft materials, such as foamed insulation board, to make satellite nests. Rarely will the expansion of a nest into a building’s wooden timbers cause structural damage. Homes built in wooded areas are especially subject to infestation. Attention should be given to the suspect areas for pest control and structural issues as well.
The first sign of an infestation is the presence of large wingless, dark-colored ants inside a home. However, this does not necessarily mean that a nest is present indoors rather the ants may be in search of food and water. To check, from about 10 p.m. to 2 a.m., take a flashlight and look for the carpenter ants in the attic, garage, and basement, and follow them. They may lead you back to the nest inside or outside your home. If numerous winged, reproductive ants are found at windows inside the house, they probably came from an indoor nest.
The indoor nest may have originated from one or more parent colonies outside the home. The parent colony is often located in a tree, log, or waste wood within 100 yards of the house. Workers travel between the satellite and parent colonies.
Common indoor nest locations include porch pillars and supporting timbers, sills, girders, joists, wall studs, window and door casings, and under insulation between ceiling joists or wall studs. Check areas where the wood may be wet or damp because of poor ventilation, a leaking roof, defective flashing, overflowing or leaking gutters and downspouts, condensation from water pipes, or leaking bathtubs, showers, and appliances. In homes, the ants typically do not excavate wood for nest construction, but make their nests in hollow areas of ceilings, walls, or floors. They will tunnel through sound structural timbers to gain access to a void on the other side, but this has little effect on the structural integrity of the timber.
The first line of defense is to remove stumps, logs, and waste wood within 100 yards of the building. Do not allow vegetation, especially evergreen shrubs and trees, to be in contact with the house. Store firewood away from the house and off of the ground, and bring it into the house only when needed. Keep wooden parts of the house and other structures dry by making necessary repairs to roofs, flashing, gutters, and downspouts. Replace any water-damaged, decaying wood.
To control carpenter ants, the parent and satellite colonies must be destroyed or the ants will reappear in a few days or weeks. Products that are not toxic to mammals are preferred for use by homeowners in and around the home, for example dust formulations of boric acid have low toxicity and may be blown into nests and cavities to kill the ants. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the satellite colony can be eliminated without the help of a professional pest management company.
If you are using any of the dusts, sprays, or powders, labeled for use with carpenter ants, please read and follow the directions and safety precautions.
For more information, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of the carpenter ant fact sheet.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Monday, June 13, 2011
Gardeners! Join the Fight to Stop Giant Hogweed!
Pennsylvania is winning its battle against Giant Hogweed, a noxious, invasive weed that can cause blistering and scarring on the skin of susceptible people, but more work remains.
Thanks to help from property owners statewide 'Nearly 80 percent of the known Giant Hogweed sites have been eradicated,' said state Agriculture Secretary George Greig. 'While we must remain vigilant, the goal of completely eradicating the invasive weed is achievable.' While more than half of confirmed Giant Hogweed sites in Pennsylvania are located in Erie County they also have been sighted in 11 other counties- including Carbon, Susquehanna and Wayne counties.
Giant Hogweed is spread naturally by seeds from a flowering plant, which can be windblown and scattered or carried by water. The ability of the seeds to remain alive in soil for many years makes prevention of seed production critical. Total eradication requires three years of repeated mechanical and chemical treatments to exhaust the seed bank at each location.
Residents with suspected sightings of a new plant population or an active preexisting site are asked to call the Giant Hogweed Hotline at 1-877-464-9333. Agriculture department field staff will schedule a site inspection.
How to Recognize Giant Hogweed: The best time to identify Giant Hogweed is when it's blooming, usually in June or July. The many small, white flowers are clustered into a flat-topped umbel up to 2½ ft. across. Stems are hollow, ridged, 2-4 inches in diameter, 8-14 ft. tall, with purple blotches and coarse white hairs. The hairs are especially prominent that circle the stem at the base of the leaf stalks. Leaves are lobed, deeply incised and up to 5 ft. across. Fruit (containing the seed) is dry, flattened, oval, about 3/8 in. long and tan with brown lines.
Brochures to aid in the identification of the plant are available at Department of Agriculture website at www.agriculture.state.pa.us and type “Giant Hogweed brochure” in the search box at the top right corner. Or go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and type in “Giant Hogweed” in the box next to the “Search College” field. For more information from PDA, contact the department’s Noxious Weed Program Manager Melissa Bravo at 717-787-7204. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Thanks to help from property owners statewide 'Nearly 80 percent of the known Giant Hogweed sites have been eradicated,' said state Agriculture Secretary George Greig. 'While we must remain vigilant, the goal of completely eradicating the invasive weed is achievable.' While more than half of confirmed Giant Hogweed sites in Pennsylvania are located in Erie County they also have been sighted in 11 other counties- including Carbon, Susquehanna and Wayne counties.
Giant Hogweed is spread naturally by seeds from a flowering plant, which can be windblown and scattered or carried by water. The ability of the seeds to remain alive in soil for many years makes prevention of seed production critical. Total eradication requires three years of repeated mechanical and chemical treatments to exhaust the seed bank at each location.
Residents with suspected sightings of a new plant population or an active preexisting site are asked to call the Giant Hogweed Hotline at 1-877-464-9333. Agriculture department field staff will schedule a site inspection.
How to Recognize Giant Hogweed: The best time to identify Giant Hogweed is when it's blooming, usually in June or July. The many small, white flowers are clustered into a flat-topped umbel up to 2½ ft. across. Stems are hollow, ridged, 2-4 inches in diameter, 8-14 ft. tall, with purple blotches and coarse white hairs. The hairs are especially prominent that circle the stem at the base of the leaf stalks. Leaves are lobed, deeply incised and up to 5 ft. across. Fruit (containing the seed) is dry, flattened, oval, about 3/8 in. long and tan with brown lines.
Brochures to aid in the identification of the plant are available at Department of Agriculture website at www.agriculture.state.pa.us and type “Giant Hogweed brochure” in the search box at the top right corner. Or go to http://extension.psu.edu/ and type in “Giant Hogweed” in the box next to the “Search College” field. For more information from PDA, contact the department’s Noxious Weed Program Manager Melissa Bravo at 717-787-7204. Or contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Skunk Control
The lushness of the seasons is finally upon us. The trees gently shading us with their green canopies. The rhododendrons are in full bloom, whites, subtle purples, and the reds of the related azaleas welcome us home. Even the dandelions tease us with a cheery carpet of yellow. Two colors though, should serve as a warning: black and white. A dangerous combination, more often “scented” than seen, the mephitis mephitis, the striped skunk is a common visitor to our yard.
Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if these are evident and excessive.
Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.
Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live; as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.
Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert. For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of our Skunks Wildlife Control publication.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Frequently skunks dig up the lawn or garden looking for grubs. The signs for skunk damage around the home are small cone shaped holes about three to four inches in diameter. While other animals such as dogs or squirrels dig too, they do not make circular holes. Treat your lawn with a grub control product if these are evident and excessive.
Fencing areas is the first step in keeping skunks out of areas prone to a den such as under decks or sheds. As these creatures are prone to digging, burying the first foot of wire mesh fence with about six inches bent away from the structure is a hindrance. Cover basement windows with mesh or plastic domes.
Food sources will attract skunks too. Keep trash cans sealed and secure. If you suspect a skunk is visiting your house, discontinue feeding your pets outside. Plus skunks are attracted to rodents. Garages, barns, and sheds are common places for them to live; as a result a rodent control program might be necessary.
Finding a skunk living around your home is not a welcome sight. They are nocturnal animals so they may have been there for years without anyone noticing. And while they cause problems for the nose and nosey pets, they can be beneficial. If a skunk is problematic, consider a professional wildlife removal expert. For more help with skunks, contact the Penn State Master Gardener Helpline at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and request a free copy of our Skunks Wildlife Control publication.
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Don't Bury Your Tree
In my April 10th article I wrote about the importance of planting trees at the correct depth. Here are some quick tips for proper tree planting.
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
First, take a soil sample at least a few weeks before planting. This will give you time to apply lime and fertilizer to the planting area and is best done before planting. If you will be using power digging equipment contact the PA One-Call System 3 to 10 business days before planting to help you avoid hitting underground utilities. In Pennsylvania, call 811 or visit www.paonecall.org
The planting area should be saucer shaped with soil loosened three to five times the diameter of the root ball and no more than the depth of the root ball. At a minimum, loosen soil in the planting area 2½ times the diameter of the root ball and 12 inches deep. The root ball should sit on solid, undisturbed ground rather than on loose soil. To accomplish this, dig the root ball hole so the top of the root collar (where the tree trunk flares out to the roots) is level with the existing grade of the area. Because of cultivation in the nursery, balled and burlapped plant stock may have soil piled on top of the root collar. Pull this excess soil away to determine where the root collar starts.
Hold the tree upright while backfilling around the root ball. Gently pack the soil to prevent any major air pockets; water occasionally to help settle the soil. When the root ball has been covered with soil, rake the soil evenly over the entire planting area. Deeply water the entire excavated area.
The roots of bare-root trees should be supported by a mound of soil within the planting hole so they will be evenly distributed within the planting hole. Do not kink the roots of bare-root trees to force them into a planting hole that is too small. Their root collar should be positioned level with the existing grade.
For more information on planting trees see the Penn State Extension publications
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
For information on these and other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Wildfires: Not in My Backyard!
Clearing and burning brush seems like a straightforward way to keep your garden, landscape and surrounding woods clean. Unfortunately, many gardeners are unaware of the wildfire risk posed by some brush management practices. And news reports of intense wildfires in western states, which usually are caused by lightening, only add to misperceptions about the cause of wildfires in eastern states. The majority of Eastern wildfires are caused by humans, with debris burning and arson as the leading culprits.
'Wildfire', a new four-page booklet in the popular From the Woods youth series, talks about wildfires and controlled burns in the Eastern United States. It describes the differences between Eastern and Western wildfires; including the time of year they are mostly likely to occur, types of wildfires, and their causes.
The release of From the Woods: Wildfire coincides with Pennsylvania's peak wildfire season. During the spring and the fall when the leaves are off the trees, the sun and wind dries leaves, twigs, and branches on the forest floor. Spring also is the time when many of us go outside to clear brush, leaves, and debris from the yard. Some may wait for a sunny, dry, breezy day to burn the debris. Unfortunately, those are the worst days to burn debris since the flames can quickly spread to dry grass or nearby wooded areas. Homeowners must use extra caution when burning debris to prevent spread and protect their properties. 'Wildfire' reviews simple steps you can take to protect your home, not only from your own actions, but also should a larger wildfire occur.
The booklet also explains why not all fires are harmful. Trained professionals conduct controlled burns as a useful tool to restore native landscapes and manage vegetation.
PA residents can obtain one free copy of 'Wildfire' by calling 814-865-6713; anyone can download it for free at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh191.pdf The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800-234-9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or visit our website at http://extension.psu.edu/paforeststewards
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
PLEASE JOIN US on Saturday, May 7 for Breakfast, Business, and Bugs! Enjoy a hot breakfast at 9 AM ($7.00) and your County Cooperative Extension Association annual meeting (no charge) at 9:30ish. Then join our Master Gardeners for a plant sale and workshop ($5.00) on Bugs: Good versus Evil, and Organic Pest Control for Gardeners. Come to any or all sessions. Please register by May 3rd by calling 963-6842 or emailing us at LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Registration for breakfast starts at 8:30; for the gardening workshop at 10:30 with talks from 11AM to 1 PM. Seating is limited!
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
'Wildfire', a new four-page booklet in the popular From the Woods youth series, talks about wildfires and controlled burns in the Eastern United States. It describes the differences between Eastern and Western wildfires; including the time of year they are mostly likely to occur, types of wildfires, and their causes.
The release of From the Woods: Wildfire coincides with Pennsylvania's peak wildfire season. During the spring and the fall when the leaves are off the trees, the sun and wind dries leaves, twigs, and branches on the forest floor. Spring also is the time when many of us go outside to clear brush, leaves, and debris from the yard. Some may wait for a sunny, dry, breezy day to burn the debris. Unfortunately, those are the worst days to burn debris since the flames can quickly spread to dry grass or nearby wooded areas. Homeowners must use extra caution when burning debris to prevent spread and protect their properties. 'Wildfire' reviews simple steps you can take to protect your home, not only from your own actions, but also should a larger wildfire occur.
The booklet also explains why not all fires are harmful. Trained professionals conduct controlled burns as a useful tool to restore native landscapes and manage vegetation.
PA residents can obtain one free copy of 'Wildfire' by calling 814-865-6713; anyone can download it for free at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh191.pdf The Pennsylvania Forest Stewardship Program provides publications on a variety of topics related to woodland management. For a list of free publications, call 800-234-9473 (toll free), send an email to RNRext@psu.edu, or visit our website at http://extension.psu.edu/paforeststewards
Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
PLEASE JOIN US on Saturday, May 7 for Breakfast, Business, and Bugs! Enjoy a hot breakfast at 9 AM ($7.00) and your County Cooperative Extension Association annual meeting (no charge) at 9:30ish. Then join our Master Gardeners for a plant sale and workshop ($5.00) on Bugs: Good versus Evil, and Organic Pest Control for Gardeners. Come to any or all sessions. Please register by May 3rd by calling 963-6842 or emailing us at LackawannaExt@psu.edu
Registration for breakfast starts at 8:30; for the gardening workshop at 10:30 with talks from 11AM to 1 PM. Seating is limited!
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
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