Gardeners Have Mulch To Do In Early Spring

There isn't a lot you can do in a Pennsylvania flower garden on a March day, even if it's sunny and warm. But Robert Berghage, associate professor of horticulture in the College of Agricultural Sciences, recommends spreading mulch to delay plant emergence as long as possible.

"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."

Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.

Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.

"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."

Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.

"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."

If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.

Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Saturday School on 4/2: 'From the Ground Up' (click this heading for the flier)

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!


Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator

Assessing and Correcting Storm Damage to Trees & Shrubs

Last week we discussed the various types of plant damage that can happen during the winter. After all this winter’s storms, the coming weeks would be a good time to assess ice, snow and wind damage to trees and shrubs. So what do you do? Start by asking yourself two questions.

1. Is it worth saving? Probably not if most of one side or the top is gone, especially if it has brittle wood that will be prone to similar problems in the future. Repairing a seriously damaged tree is often a bad investment, since it may never again be attractive and may even become a hazard. A qualified arborist is the best judge of a tree's condition. Request bids from multiple businesses and ask to see proof of professional training and certifications. If you can see that the natural shape will remain after pruning, then you may want to try to salvage it.

2. If you can salvage it, should you do the repair work yourself or hire a professional? If you can safely reach the limbs from the ground with pruning shears or a pole-lopper then you can do it yourself. But take care- many homeowners are injured or do serious property damage while working on trees. And if you aren't familiar with proper tree maintenance procedures, you may do further damage to the tree when you attempt repairs. Also, let a professional arborist work on large trees, trees near utility wires, near buildings and near other landscape plants. You can look in the phone book or go to http://www.isa-arbor.com/ to find a certified arborist by zip code. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen's compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job. They should be prepared to show you proof upon request.

Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Winter Injury

Phil made his predication a couple weeks ago that we will have an early spring, and it seems that so far the indications are true. We have had a string of warmer weather. The days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger. As much as most of us would like this season to be over, the pattern is that this is just a tease. As tough as these long winters are on us, it is much rougher on the home landscape.

Storm damage is the most obvious. With the high winds, ice buildup, and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs. As soon as it is feasible this should be done. Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked. With all the snow on ground, it may seem strange that plants dry out. The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days. This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves. Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways. If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving. As soon as the soil thaws, replant and be careful not to damage the root system making sure it is entirely covered. Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive. Also because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack. Sometimes this is called southwest injury . Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to further injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury. This type of damage is visible later in the year. Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury. Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent. To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants. Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with plants being able to access essential nutrients vital to good growth. If salt building up is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring. Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Managing Winter Injury”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Master Gardener Training

Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County will be offering the Master Gardener Training Program starting in March 2011. This program involves extensive training in the major aspects of home horticulture. In addition, candidates will commit to fifty hours of volunteer time including staffing the garden helpline. The training will be held Tuesdays 1pm – 4pm beginning March 1st through May 24th. For more information or an application, please call 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

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