Clover

This Sunday was the day to “go green”! Being St. Patrick’s Day, whether you are of Irish decent or not, most people celebrate by wearing or displaying something green. In gardening, “going green” is often understood as using environmentally sound practices. It is worth considering, in light of it being March 17th, to blend the two meanings. Probably the most recognizable symbol of Ireland is the clover leaf. While it is rare to find a four leaf clover, the plant itself used to be a mainstay in the home lawn. Now, unfortunately, it is viewed as a weed.

White clover, also known as Dutch clover, has many benefits, and if you are trying to go green in your own landscape, it may be worthwhile adding it. Clover is lush, has a rich green hue, and has a low and dense growth habit. White clover makes even more sense in a home landscape, if you have large areas to mow, as it is a low maintenance ground cover. As water becomes a more precious resource, white clover is a good choice, because it can withstand a drought.

Some additional benefits to white clover are:

• Grows four to eight inches high.
• Tolerates low mowing.
• Spreads to fill empty spaces, and looks best when blended with other grasses.
• Tolerates dog urine better than grasses.
• Great source of nitrogen for your lawn, cutting down on the need to fertilize.

White cover does have disadvantages though. It can be hard to find. Some garden centers sell forage types, like red clover. It does not hold up well to a lot of foot traffic, and the stains on clothing are difficult to remove. Depending on your particular circumstance, clover attracts honey and bumble bees, which can be a plus or a minus. If you want to promote native pollinators, white clover is an excellent feed source for them. It may be a concern if you are allergic to stings.

If you do choose to add white clover to your home lawn, remember not to use any kind of broad leaf herbicide. White clover is killed by these products. For more information on this or any other topic, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension  Lackawanna County

Brown Marmorated Stinkbug

Gradually, the winter season is coming to a close. The weather pattern is still unpredictable; cycles of warm and cold will taunt us for a while longer. The days have become longer, and the sun is stronger warming things in its path, even though it can still get quite chilly. One unforeseen consequence of this solar heating is it causes some insects to start coming out of hibernation, especially the brown marmorated stinkbug, or BMSB. You may have been alarmed by the site of this triangular-shield shaped bug crawling around your home.

Accidently introduced in the late 1990’s the BMSB is originally from Asia. It has become a nuisance pest because it has no natural enemies in the states, and it has a very wide variety of host plants on which it can live. A homeowner often can see large gatherings of them around the landscape, especially in the fall. More than likely then, they are looking for a place to hibernate. Stink bugs have the unique ability to give off a scent, alerting other BMSB’s that there is a suitable site for the winter. So, you will see large groups of them before the cold sets in. You may notice them on occasion in your home as their slumber is coming to an end. It is important to know, though, there is no cause for alarm, if you see them.

Unlike carpenter ants or termites, the BMSB, does not do any structural damage to the home. They do not sting or bite either. The only defense they have is their offensive odor. In addition,, the stink bug does not reproduce indoors, nor does it eat this time of year. Basically, your home is a rest stop for this pest. In the fall they often enter through holes in screens, exhaust fans, and especially window air conditioners. It is important to check those areas to prevent an infestation.

This time of year, controlling the BMSB is on the mind of anyone who has seen this pest in their home. The use of pesticides indoors is not effective in controlling stink bugs. The use of aerosol-type foggers, "bug bombs," or other insecticides may kill stink bugs but will not prevent more from entering a structure. These materials are also not labeled for this purpose and therefore not legally allowed. Their use may also create a hazard to people using the structure. Plus, leaving large numbers of dead BMSB’s  in hard to reach places like attics may attract other pests such as carpet beetles and mice. Manually ridding your home of these bugs is the best way to manage them. You can use a shop vac to gather them, but that may cause your vacuum to smell like the stink bug for a while.

Stink bugs are nothing more than a unwelcome guest in your home this time of year. Using more than manual control on them will do much more damage than good.  For more information on the BMSB, contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu. We can send you a free publication on the stink bug.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State e Extension
   Lackawanna County

Winter: A Great Time to Examine Your Trees and Prune Them

Even though the temperature is below freezing and our landscapes look stark and lifeless, it is the perfect time to walk your property and evaluate your trees branch structure while the leaves are off the tree and not blocking your view to the interior of the canopy.  When examining the leafless canopy, look for broken, damaged and dead branches, decay cavities, rubbing and crossing branches, and weakly attached branches with included bark that form a “V” type union.  It might seem difficult at first, but soon you will begin to see branches that don’t have buds or the bark is sloughing off, which are pretty good signs that the branch is dead.  Following some of the recent storms, including hurricane Sandy, there might be broken branches that are still hanging in the tree that should be removed before they fall out and cause damage.  Look for splits or cracks in branches and cavities in the trunk or large branches.

Co-dominant stems are formed when two branches that are about the same diameter come together to form a tight V shaped union.  Over time these two stems will get larger in diameter, applying pressure to each other until one stem breaks out, usually in a storm or high wind event.  These tight V unions are not as strong as smaller branches that are attached with something called a branch collar.  These branches tend to be growing at a 45 degree angle to the trunk and are tightly held in place by branch collars, formed by trunk wood.  It is best to remove one of the co-dominant stems when the tree is young or the branch is small.  

Once you evaluated your trees in the winter, you might decide they need to be pruned, either by a professional arborist or yourself, as long as you can do that safely (never climb a tree unless you have been trained to do this work and are using ropes and safety equipment).  Winter is a good time to prune because we can see branch structure, insects and diseases are not present, and the tree will devote some of its stored energy into closing the pruning wounds in the spring as it begins to grow.  Some worry about species that “bleed” when pruned in the winter, but it is only sap flowing from species such as maple, birch, beech and elm and it does not harm the tree.
 
Winter is also a good time to have an arborist evaluate and prune your trees because it is their slower season.  Who knows, you might even get a better price during the winter months.  Just make sure you find someone who is knowledgeable, like an ISA Certified Arborist, and will not “top”, “over thin”, or damage your tree.   For more information about tree pruning and tree care, visit www.patrees.org


Vincent Cotrone
Penn State Extension Urban Forester
& ISA Certified Arborist

Groundhog's Day

By the time you read this, Phil will have made his prediction. For all our sake, we hope it is for an early spring.  In the midst of winter, Groundhog’s day is a fun diversion and reminds us spring is on the way sooner or later. Some 40,000 make the trek to Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania to witness this yearly event dating back to the 1800’s. Punxsutawney Phil has met Oprah Winfrey, President Reagan, Governors Thornburg and Rendell, and in 2001, his prediction was broadcast live to New York City’s Times Square. Fun as Phil is, groundhog’s day is folklore.

Here are some facts about the groundhog, and how to manage the furry creature once he makes an appearance in your yard.

Marmota monax, the groundhog, also known as the woodchuck, is a chunky creature weighing up to 10 lbs. Its length ranges sixteen to twenty inches plus the tail, four to seven inches. While open farm land is their first choice, the groundhog has made a comfortable home in the suburban landscape where plenty of food and shelter make life easy for them. Often a groundhog will construct its burrow along stone walls, at the base of trees, and even along a foundation.

Groundhog burrows can be identified by the large mound of excavated earth at the main entrance. On this mound, which is constantly renewed by debris from within, the groundhog frequently sits to look for danger. The entranceway is 10 to 12 inches in diameter, and they also have secondary entrances. These tend to be hidden and dug from below so mounds are not seen.

The groundhog can be the bane of most homeowners. The animal’s feeding and burrowing habits conflict with human interests. Damage often occurs on farms, in home gardens, orchards, nurseries, and around buildings.  Damage to crops such as alfalfa, soybeans, beans, squash, tomatoes, and peas can be costly and extensive. A homeowner may lose his or her entire tomato patch. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs may be damaged by a groundhog as they gnaw on woody vegetation. Mounds of earth from the excavated burrow systems and holes formed at burrow entrances present a hazard to farm equipment, animals, and humans. On occasion, burrowing can weaken building foundations.

In Pennsylvania, groundhogs are classified as game animals. Game protection is removed when they damage personal property. In that case, groundhogs can be controlled by the property owner using the lawful means. If a homeowner does not feel comfortable with any means of control, there are many wildlife pest control companies who can do this for you.

If the area is small, poultry wire or two inch woven mesh fencing can be installed. With three foot minimum above ground, the fence should have twelve inches buried in the ground, with six inches bent in an L shape pointing away.
Scarecrows can provide temporary relief from groundhog damage. Move them regularly and incorporate a high level of human activity in the susceptible area.

There are no repellents or toxicants that are for use on groundhogs. There are other products such as fumigants and gas cartridges available at home and garden centers which are labeled for use on groundhogs. Please carefully follow the directions as these are dangerous products.

There are live traps the homeowners can use as well. Place the trap near fresh damage or at the main entrance of the burrow. Use fresh bait such as apple slices, carrots, and lettuce. Be careful once the animal is trapped. Give some thought to a relocation area at least ten miles away and where the groundhog will not be the pest he was to you.

The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County  have a free publication on groundhogs, contact us at (570) 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension Lackawanna County

Winter Damage

Each and every year, in the dead of winter, we have a string of warmer weather, as this past week has shown.  Then it moves to get colder again.  Slowly the days are getting longer and the sun is getting stronger.  But it is still winter, and this season takes its toll on us and the landscape around us.  Extreme cold, a short thaw, and inches upon inches of snow can damage the hardiest of trees and shrubs.

The most obvious kind of damage can come from winter storms.  With the high winds, ice buildup and snow we typically receive, it is important to prune any broken or damaged limbs as soon as it feasible.  Make certain when the cuts are made no further injury is made to the bark. If a tree or shrub is leaning or bent, consider staking it to see if it will straighten out.

Drying out, or desiccation, is overlooked.  It seems strange with all the snow on the ground that plants dry out. Needles and leaves on evergreens transpire all winter long.  The extreme winds and dry air can cause excessive water loss, as can milder temperatures and sunny days.  This type of injury is usually seen as discolored, burned evergreen needles or leaves.   Watering during the nicest days in the upcoming months will help offset winter dehydration.

Freeze damage may occur in different ways.  If you notice plants looking like they have been pushed out of the ground, that is a result of frost heaving.  As soon as the soil thaws, replant it.  Be careful not to damage the root system and make sure it is entirely covered.  Dead branch tips are indication of late season growth which did not harden enough to survive.  Also, because of the fluctuation of temperatures, bark and trunks may split or crack.  Sometimes this is called southwest injury.  Most often the plant will repair itself so no action is needed, but be careful not to injure the plant as they are vulnerable at this stage.

Common and controllable is salt injury.  This type of damage is visible later in the year.  Burnt looking leaf edges are the usual sign of salt injury.  Most affected are plants along a driveway or road where splashing and runoff is prevalent.  To reduce this damage, use much less salt, shovel more, and try not to let snow piles build up around the plants.  Salt builds up in the soil and will interfere with the plant’s ability to access essential nutrients vital to good growth.  If salt build is found, flush the area with regular intervals of water in the early spring.  Try using sand or sawdust as an alternative to salt too.

For more information on winter injury please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu and we will send you the free publication “Winter Injury to Trees and Shrubs.”


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension in  Lackawanna County