Monday, November 19, 2012

Protection And Control Of Rabbits

There is one familiar furry resident in your home landscape which does tremendous damage in the upcoming winter months.  While rabbits live year-round in your garden, their behavior is more pronounced now. Protecting the trees, shrubs, and perennials from these varmints will help them cope with the seasonal struggles better.

Rabbits chew off buds and stems of shrubs and other low-growing plants. Rabbits harm the bark of young trees, especially fruit trees. Damage is usually confined to 18 to 24 inches above ground or snow level. Stems are cut off cleanly, leaving a sharp 45-degree angle cut. Other tell-tale, or maybe bunny-tail, signs of a rabbit visit include elongated tracks in the snow and little piles of round brown droppings.

Control rabbits by:
  • Eliminating hiding places such as brush, tall grass, and weeds. Remember crawl spaces, under decks and sheds.
  • Protecting gardens with fencing. A chicken wire fence, with a one-inch or finer mesh at least two feet high, provides adequate protection.
  • Extend the bottom of the fence at least six inches below the soil line.
  • Using tree guards, wraps or hardware cloth around the trunks of young trees. Dig hardware cloth into the ground at least six inches and extend it well above the anticipated snow level. As the tree grows, the barrier must be loosened.
  • Using repellants. These are available at local garden supply stores. By law, all commercial repellents must be used according to instructions on the product label.
  • Trapping. Rabbits are protected species in Pennsylvania so when done out of season, it should only be done when they are causing damage to private property and in accordance to PA laws.
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free publication on the control of rabbits. Please contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Thursday, November 8, 2012

Winter Bird Care


The chill of November is here to remind us the cold will soon settle in for a long stay. Most people have started preparing in many ways: putting the storm windows on the house, storing the hoes and tools, cutting back perennials, and so on. It seems there is just as much work to end the growing season as starting it. There is one more task a homeowner can do which reaps all sorts of rewards: winter bird feeding.

As plants die back or go dormant, coupled with a snow cover, a bird’s food source is diminished. If you provide a feeder and seed during the winter time, you sustain our feathered friends which give you a productive task during the bleak months of winter. Consider taking up bird watching as a winter hobby too.
 
Depending on the habitat and neighborhood, you can see as many as thirty-five different species of birds. This has an impact on the kind of food you need. Not all birds prefer one kind of seed. At your local garden center, you can find as many as twenty different kinds of bird food. The best all-purpose food is a black-oil sunflower seed. It has a thin seed coat so it easy for smaller birds to crack open, but it does cost more. Striped sunflower seed is popular with bigger birds, but one disadvantage is the spent hulls left behind. Shelled or whole peanuts are a good choice for blue jays, chickadees, and woodpeckers. Seed mixes work well, but birds have been known to sort through the stuff they like and leave the rest behind. Suet provides much-needed fat in the winter. For a family project, “marvel meal” can be made at home.

The type of feeder you use will attract different kinds of birds as well. A hopper feeder looks like a house with plexiglass sides on top of a platform where the seed is dispensed as birds eat it. The plexiglass makes it easy to tell when more seed needs to be added. The seed is protected against the weather, but not so well against squirrels. Tube feeders are hollow plexiglass cylinders with multiple feeding ports and perches. These hanging feeders attract species that typically feed off the ground. You can attach a tray to the bottom to catch scattered seeds and to allow larger species to feed. Tray or platform feeders are simple, flat, raised surfaces on which you spread seed. Easy to make, they are one of the most popular feeders. Birds that typically feed on the ground are particularly attracted to this type of feeder. A disadvantage of platform feeders is that they are not squirrel-proof or weather resistant. They should have drainage holes for water and need to be cleaned often to remove bird droppings. Only one day’s worth of food should be put out at a time. Water becomes very scarce in the winter time. Adding a water source will attract even more diversity. Birdbaths do not have to be fancy. Terra cotta planter saucers work well, as do trash can lids, turned upside with some stones placed inside to keep it from blowing away.
 
Site selection is the last thing to keep in mind. You can place the feeders close enough to watch from a window. Birds in winter can be very entertaining. Keep it about ten feet from trees and shrubs. Birds do not venture far from protective cover. This gives them an opportunity to be close to shelter, gives them a perch to rest, and protection from elements. Monitor for the presence of cats and squirrels too. If you see signs of bear, remove the feeder at once. If a bear knows there is a food source, he will keep coming back for more.

If you would like more information on this topic, the Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Bird Feeding” available. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email at LackawannaMG@psu.edu  to request a copy.

 
Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator

Monday, October 22, 2012

Spring Bulbs

Gardening has its good and not-so-good parts. It is a healthy hobby, but intense at times. Whether it is a vegetable, annual, or perennial, nothing is as rewarding as seeing the home landscape in full maturity.  However, it takes a lot of work, trial, and error to achieve results.  One benefit of gardening is it teaches us patience.  Good things come to those who wait.  As we are getting ready to put our gardens to bed for winter, we also need to think of next year at the same time, but we will be rewarded in time.

Think about spring color now, how nice it would be to see bright colors emerging as the rest of the garden still slumbers.  Tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, can greet us warmly, but we have to do the work now.  Spring-flowering bulbs are unparalleled in terms of choices for plant material, kinds of blooms and colors, and a varied bloom time.  There is some time left to do this, and you can find some really good deals at your local garden center now.

Some things to consider...
Site:
Most bulbs need well drained soil.  If the area tends to have standing water after a spring thaw, then look for another location.  It is generally recommended not to plant under trees.  Bulbs require five to six hours of full sun at a minimum, and eight to ten for the best flowers.  Clusters, or larger groupings, have the most eye appeal so make sure you have plenty of room for a big display.  Avoid planting in a lawn or location that might be damaged from lawn care.  Their foliage needs as much sun as possible, so if they are cut down before dieback, it may affect the bulb quality. Spring bulbs do best if they are left in the same location year after year, so pick a site with that in mind.  Preparation is key to success for spring bulbs.  Loosen the soil to a depth of about twelve inches.  Add composted organic material to the top eight inches.  If you haven’t had a soil test done, then choose a low nitrogen formula.  There are many tailored just for spring bulbs.


Selection:
“Bulb” is a general term used to describe a host of plants. True bulbs include tulips, lilies, and daffodils.  Crocus start as corms.  Bearded iris and lily of the valley have tubers, which are thick underground stems.  Whichever you choose, tulips and daffodils have a wide variety of colors, and bloom types. They offer the greatest range of bloom times as well. Crocus give you the earliest color.  Hyacinths have a sweet fragrance outside.  Consider mixing and staggering your plantings to give you continuous color from March through May.  Spring bulbs, with very little care, will come back each year, fuller with better color.


The Penn State master gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Hardy Bulbs in Pennsylvania.”  For a copy, please contact us 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG @psu.edu.



Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Falling On Tough Times

It has been a difficult year for your lawn. Extended hot, dry periods in the summer after a very mild winter, as your turf grass was exposed to everything in between. Most people have found bare spots and weeds co-mingled with the grass. Fall is the perfect time to help your lawn recover and prepare for a better growing season next spring.

•Weed Control
Fall is a great time for weed management, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Identify the weeds, not all will survive the winter, or even heavy frost. Some will persist like dandelions, thistle, and bindweed. Use a product labeled for use on those specific weeds, and follow the directions. Herbicides are poison, and dangerous if mis-handled. Weeds compete with grass for food and nutrients so it is good for your lawn to manage weeds, but it is recommended to spot treat weeds. This means only using an herbicide in certain areas during the fall, unlike other times of the year where you would broadcast over the whole grass areas.


•Thatch Care
Thatch is a build-up of living and dead grass roots and stems between the soil and green grass blades. Some level of that is a good thing. The amount of thatch in the lawn may be checked by cutting three to four inches down into the grass with a shovel and lifting up a piece of sod. Thatch looks like a thick tangle of dark brown roots above the soil level. If thatch is greater than 1/2 inch, the lawn should be core aerated or de-thatched. Fall is an excellent time to de-thatch. In lawns with a thatch layer over 3/4 inch thick, you should aerate then topdress with a thin layer (1/8 to 1/4 inch) of soil or compost. Topdressing adds microorganisms that help breakdown thatch.


•Spot Cover
Fall is a great time to re-seed any bare spots in the lawn. Good soil contact is crucial for germination.  For small areas, use a rake to work up the soil so it is loose. For larger areas, a tiller may be necessary if the top few inches are compacted. Choose a perennial rye blend for best results. This selection has good heat and drought tolerance and grows quickly to fill in the empty areas.  Cover lightly with straw or some of the newer seed starter mulches available at your local garden center.


In addition to these steps, fall is the best time to fertilize your lawn. Consider a soil test kit to find out exactly what kinds of nutrients the turf will need. These kits are for sale in our office.


For more information on fall lawn care, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free packet of information on this topic. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for one. Are you interested in becoming a Master Gardener? We are having a fall training class beginning October 22, you can contact us for more information.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Master Gardener Training

Penn State Extension in Lackawanna County will be offering the Master Gardener Training Program in the fall.  This program involves extensive training in the major aspects of home horticulture.  In addition, candidates will commit to fifty hours of volunteer time including staffing the garden helpline.

The training will be held Monday and Thursday nights beginning October 22. For more information or an application, please call 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County Office
200 Adams Avenue, LL
Scranton, PA 18503
Phone: 570-963-6842
Email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Web: extension.psu.edu