The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening and participate in the Extension Annual Meeting. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Save your trees, your back and your wallet from mulch volcanoes!
In my March 20th article I wrote about early spring mulching tasks to do that would help your garden grow. Today I want to talk a bit about a popular mulching practice NOT to do - those huge “mulch volcanoes” that you see around trees. They are a waste of money and harmful to trees. But you ask – I see them around trees maintained by professional landscapers?! Yes, that’s true, and landscapers should know better. Intrigued? … please read on! Mounds of mulch around tree trunks encourages rodents and diseases and inhibits oxygen from getting down to the roots (yes, roots need to breathe too!). Now don’t get me wrong, mulch is part of good tree management; just not heaps of mulch. And if your landscaper suggests otherwise, you may want to suggest that they brush up on the topic (show them the website below!) rather than charging you for time and materials to make mulch volcanoes that can only harm your trees, not help them. Tree trunks are meant to be above ground and open to the air, right down to where the trunk flares out at the soil line. What flare, you ask? Well, the “root flare” is the zone where the tree trunk widens out a bit as it turns into the root system and the flare should be visible right at the soil line. If your tree trunk at ground level looks as straight as a telephone pole then the tree is planted (or has sunk) too deep. But that’s for another article. Now back to mulching trees. Proper mulching is good for trees. So, how do we mulch trees properly?
- Keep mulch at least 3-4 inches away from the tree trunk.
- Mulch out to the "drip line" of the tree (where the branches farthest from the trunk end). The tree (and the grass that you eliminate) will thank you. Must have lawn under your tree? Make the mulched area as large as you can.
- Layer fine-textured mulch no more than 2 inches deep and coarse-textured mulch no more than 4 inches deep.
- Occasionally fluff the mulch layer, especially before putting on new mulch. Remember that the entire mulch layer (old plus new) should be only 2 to 4 inches deep.
For more information on mulching trees and lots of other tree related topics, visit www.patrees.org Questions? Contact your local cooperative extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Monday, April 4, 2011
Saturday School on 4/16: 'Out On A Limb' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Gardeners Have Mulch To Do In Early Spring
There isn't a lot you can do in a Pennsylvania flower garden on a March day, even if it's sunny and warm. But Robert Berghage, associate professor of horticulture in the College of Agricultural Sciences, recommends spreading mulch to delay plant emergence as long as possible.
"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."
Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.
Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.
"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."
Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.
"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."
If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
"You have to keep the soil temperature as cool as possible to delay spring flowers and perennials. A good layer of loosely packed mulch can insulate against temperature fluctuations. Don't mulch too heavily, because a dense mulch will smother plants. A layer of dry leaves would be ideal."
Berghage explains the loose mulch will protect the tops of emerging shoots from rapid temperature changes that still may occur. "If emergence has started, even temperatures below freezing for an extended period usually will not damage the actual flower stalk, which is deep into the bulb at that point," Berghage says.
Trees and shrubs that have begun flowering will retain some dormancy as long as there are no extended warm periods. If the trees do flower fully too soon, Berghage says it's unlikely the tree will bear fruit later in the season.
"Pollination will be poor or nonexistent in most cases because insects and birds aren't really active yet," Berghage points out. "If a freeze happens, that can prevent fruit as well."
Berghage says plants in protected locations close to buildings, pavement or stone walls -- all of which concentrate heat -- will continue to grow and not much can be done to delay growth.
"Keep track of the plants that have significant vegetative or flower-bud injury," Berghage suggests. "In the summer these injured plants should be watered more so stress on the foliage is reduced and the plant can generate food for the next growing season."
If a bulb plant fails to flower this season, Berghage emphasizes that gardeners should let the plant follow its normal life-cycle. "Often gardeners will mow off the leaves if the plant fails to flower," Berghage says. "If the plant's foliage is not allowed to go through the growing season, the plant will be weakened and might not produce quality flowers next season or ever."
Questions? Contact your local extension office. In Lackawanna County ask for the Garden Help line at 963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu.
Terry Schettini, Extension Educator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Saturday School on 4/2: 'From the Ground Up' (click this heading for the flier)
The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County invite you to learn more about gardening. Click on the heading of this posting to get more information, and we look forward to seeing you in school!
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
Steve Ward
Lackawanna County Master Gardener Coordinator
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