Planning Your Spring Garden and Ordering Seeds

We are in the midst of the inevitable: winter. The short days, gray skies, howling, biting winds, snow, and ice are all around us. Winter comes every year, but we never get used to it. For many, the end of this season is the best part. For the home gardener, this time of year is best suited for planning for spring plantings. The seed catalogues have already started teasing us in the mailbox.

Whether you are a novice, thinking of starting your plants for the first time, or an experienced gardener, January and February are great times to think about what to grow and ordering seeds. In order to achieve the best results, there are some things to consider before making a purchase.

Know the USDA hardiness zone. In 2012, the U.S. Department of Agriculture updated its hardiness zones. What this means is, after looking thirty years of records, a more accurate and precise tool is available to help determine what plants will grow best in your area. With the enhanced information, you find out by zip code in which zip code your garden is. For more information go to http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov

Know the garden conditions. What kind of soil makes up your landscape: loam, clay, sandy? The quality of the soil will have an impact on the plants rooted in it. Do you have good drainage, or water pooling after a rain? Some plants thrive moist soils and other need dryer areas. The amount of sunlight is critical, vegetables need at least six hours of direct sun to produce a decent crop. But there are a lot of tender annuals that need shade.

Know the seed packet. Look at the information listed on the front and back of the seed package. It is too easy to get lost in the picture, with its promise of a beautiful harvest, but the information will help you decide if that particular seed is the best choice for you. Besides the basic description, the label will give you the light and soil requirements, spacing, plus germination, and maturity days. Germination days indicates how long before the first sprouts appear, and days to maturity means how long until the plant is ready to be harvested or in bloom.

Know the kind of seed you want. “Hybrid” are seeds cross between varieties, usually grown for specific reasons not found in nature by itself, like color, size or flavor. “Open pollinated” describes natural pollination, cloning or self pollinated. It can be a controlled situation though, by using plants with known characteristics. “Heirlooms” are seed produced through open pollination and grown for many years to keep their distinctive traits. These plants are not usually disease tolerant like hybridized seeds. “Treated” means the seed has been coated to protect it from diseases or insects. Usually, they are colored too, so they won’t be confused with untreated seeds. “Organic” are seeds grown without the use of synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. If being organic is important to you, look for the USDA Organic label on the package. These were once difficult to find but are becoming common place now.

The benefits of purchasing your own seeds and starting plants from them are numerous: you will save money, know the supply chain, the quality of their care, and give you a productive hobby in the middle of winter. For more information on purchasing and starting seeds at home the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have a free packet of information on this topic. Contact us at 570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a copy of “Sowing Seeds at Home.”

Steve Ward

Master Gardener Coordinator

Penn State Extension

Lackawanna County

Holiday Plant Care

Whether you received them as gifts or use them as decorations, your holiday plants, with proper care, can bring pleasure for weeks or even months after the holiday season ends.

The newer poinsettia varieties retain their leaves and bracts remarkably well and may stay in good shape for several months. Keep a uniform room temperature for poinsettias between 60 and 68 degrees. Put your plant near a bright window, out of direct sunlight, and remove it if there is danger of chilling.

Try to maintain the soil moisture at moderate and uniform levels. Never let the pot stand in water for any extended period of time. If the plant came wrapped in foil or other water-tight material, be sure to punch holes in the bottom or remove the wrap entirely, so water won’t be trapped inside.

While the poinsettia remains the choice of holiday plants, the Christmas cactus is popular too. Most blooming plants will keep better in cooler temperatures and in a well-lit location away from sources of hot air. Watering seems to be the source of most problems with the Christmas cactus. Water thoroughly when the top half of the soil in the pot feels dry to the touch. Discard the excess; do not water again until the top half becomes dry. 

Well-drained soil is a must for Christmas cactus. Use a commercially packaged potting mix for succulent plants. Pruning your Christmas cactus after blooming will encourage the plant to branch out. Remove a few sections of each stem by pinching them off with a knife.

Consider adding a splash of the tropics among your usual and seasonal decorations this year by purchasing an amaryllis. They come in shades of red, pink, white, and stripes. They can be found in bloom this time of year or as a bulb ready to start.

It is important to keep the soil moist, but not soggy, otherwise the bulb will rot. Place in a warm area, but not direct afternoon sun. Remember to rotate the plant regularly so it will grow straight. Depending on the variety, they can grow up to three feet tall and may need staking.

Remove the flowers after they have withered where it exits the stalk. Do not remove the foliage as this feeds the bulb for the next year’s growth.  New leaves will continue to appear and you can care for this as any other house plant. In June the amaryllis can be moved outdoors in its container. Continue watering, and twice a month use houseplant fertilizer. Other than these few steps amaryllis need little fussing. 

The “Holiday Plant Guide” will help you care for your plants. Contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570-963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu for a free copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Cooperative Extension in Lackawanna County

Christmas Tree Guide

Do you need some guidance in choosing a Christmas tree? Trying to decide artificial or real? As another holiday season approaches, here are some considerations to guide you: In general, artificial trees are easier to manage and are less messy than real ones. They are also hypoallergenic. Artificial trees can be used for many years to come, spreading their cost out. They never need watering either. However, as they become worn, damaged or outdated, they end up in landfills. They will spend centuries of holiday seasons buried, taking up valuable space.

Choosing a real Christmas tree is important for Pennsylvania. There are about 2,000 Christmas tree farms in the state, adding to the local economies. These farms cover 35,000 acres producing 1.2 million cut trees each year. Almost fourteen million dollars in sales are generated by PA Christmas tree farms.

These farms also stabilize the environment. The land itself is productive,  preserving habitats lost in development. Plus soil erosion is reduced and trees are great air purifiers and give off oxygen. Tree farms help abate soil erosion, storm water runoff, and add aesthetically to the areas around the farm.

Ready to shop for a real tree? There are many varieties of trees from which you can choose. Seventy percent of PA Christmas trees are Douglas fir and Fraser fir.  The Fraser fir is usually the top choice due its fragrance and needle retention.

Balsam Fir:
Soft, dark green foliage, with flattened needles about three-quarters of an inch in length, has a distinctive “balsam” aroma, excellent needle retention. 

Colorado Blue Spruce:
stout, three-sided needles about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its foliage can vary in color from dark green to indigo blue. Its sturdy branching and good needle retention make it a desirable Christmas tree, while its excellent form and outstanding color make it the premier ornamental evergreen.

Douglas Fir:
Widely used as a Christmas tree in the Northeast. Its lush, blue-green foliage, with needles about one inch in length, and outstanding needle retention make this a holiday favorite.

Scotch Pine:
One of the first farm-grown Christmas trees in the United States. Its sharp, blue-green foliage, with needles about two to three inches in length. It conical shape, excellent color, and needle retention made it the Christmas tree of choice for many years.

White Pine:
Native to the Northeast, has soft, lacy, blue-green foliage with needles about three to four inches in length. A very graceful-looking evergreen, it fragrance and excellent needle retention made it a popular Christmas tree.

Fraser Fir:
Closely related to Douglas Fir. Its soft, emerald-green needles with silvery undersides are about three-quarters of an inch in length. Its bottlebrush texture, sturdy branching, and outstanding needle retention make it a superb Christmas tree whose popularity has grown rapidly in recent years. 

Just as importantly, care is crucial for you to get the most out of your selection. For more information on Christmas tree selection, please contact the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County at 570 963-6842 or email: LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for the publication “Caring for Your Cut Christmas Tree”.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Lackawanna County

Winter Plant Care

It’s cold. We all know. The frost on the windows tells us. The thermostat and high heating bills give us regular reminders winter is upon us. From now until spring, the weathermen broadcast the same message: it’s cold.

The plants in the home landscape know it’s cold too. As bad as it is for us, we aren't stuck in the ground to tough it out until May. While most of the material around the home is accustomed to the USDA hardiness zone, some plants may need help in order to survive.

Winter plant care can help buffer the extremes in temperature, wind, and precipitation. The idea of protecting your plants isn’t to keep them warm, but rather to preserve their dormancy. If plants are too warm, they may break bud, and start new growth. The tender new shoots are very susceptible to freeze damage and will die back. Strong windy conditions can cause desiccation, where the plant suffers water loss that it cannot make up. The plant dries, and leaves are scorched. If the condition is severe, the leaves will turn brown and fall off.

Winter protection involves:
Mulching: Timing is critical for mulching around the home landscape. It is better to wait until the temperatures are consistently below freezing. A few inches of straw or wood chips are a good choice. Do not use grass clippings which have been treated with chemicals, or hay as it often has weed seeds in it. Keep the mulch away from tree trunks. Mulching too close breeds diseases and invites pests.

Pruning: Trimming for shape or production this time of year may encourage new growth, which will not be winter hardy on most landscape plants. Wait until the plant is dormant and then trim appropriately for the variety. The only exception is to remove a damaged limb to prevent further injury or disease.

Barriers: Unfortunately, you may not know your plants need protection until it is too late, the plant does not come back the next year. If you have container grown plants, they may need to be taken into an unheated space. Their roots are especially vulnerable to freezing. Windbreaks such as fencing will help buffer strong winds. Using burlap around trees and shrubs will help. Do not use plastic as this will heat up in the sun. Watch for snow loads, the extra weight will break branches.

Water: Even in the dead of winter, plants still need water to survive. Hopefully the plant has been well-tended during the growing season. This gives it the strength to endure the changes in temperatures. Some supplemental watering may be necessary. Only do this when it is warmer than forty degrees, and at midday to give enough time for the water to soak in. Do not fertilize until the spring.

Even the mildest of winters in Northeast Pennsylvania are harsh on the landscape. With a little bit of care, you can help your plants by protecting them. In return, they will reward you next year with a beautiful show. For more information, the Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have the free publication “Winter Protection.” Contact us at  570-963-6842 or email LackawannaMG@psu.edu to request a copy.

Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County

Fall Leaves

We don’t think of them much until there are a lot them: leaves. They serve as a retreat from the hot sun. The canopy of shade leaves furnish for us is welcome, and the more leaves, the more shade. This time of year, though, most homeowners are not thankful for leaves. We see them change color, blow by in the wind, and land right where we don’t want them: in our yard.

In our area, autumn greets us with a splendor of color. Interestingly, these shades are always present in the leaf, but are covered up by the green pigment, chlorophyll. The yellow pigment is called xanthophyll, and orange is carotene. Anthocyanin is red color, but depending on the kind of tree, the red seen is a result of sugar levels inside the leaves. As the daylight shortens, chlorophyll production decreases and the green fades, allowing the other colors to be more dominant. (If you want to see what colors your tree will be dressed in this fall, click on 'Fall Colors' in the 'EASY LINKS' section on the right side of your screen.) Once the photosynthesis process is over for the season, the tree sections off the leaf to conserve water and oxygen for the winter. The leaf falls off and now it’s your problem. While useless to the tree at this point, leaves can be very important in the home landscape, so don’t just discard them.

Mow over your leaves to break them down. You can let them lie there. They will decompose slowly and add nutrients to your grass. They will not smother your lawn, but will give a natural boost for next year’s growth. You can add them over your garden beds as is or till them in.

Use intact fallen leaves as mulch. Add a thick layer around the beds of shrubs, trees and perennials.  Twelve plus inches of fall leaves will act as a layer of insulation for the winter and will break down, amending your soil for next year.

Compost them. You can start a compost pile now or gather the leaves and wait until the spring. To start now, shred the leaves. The smaller the pieces the faster they will break down. Add small amounts of grass clippings or healthy plant debris from your garden.  If the leaves are not wet, then add water to the point that the pile is damp throughout. If you prefer, you can contain the fall leaves for the winter and use them in the spring. Inexpensive wire fencing formed in a ring should hold the leaves until you want to use them next year.

Leaves serve their purpose for tress, providing food. They add some visual appeal in autumn. Leaves at this time of year are also a lot of work, but you can make them work for you, too.



The Penn State Master Gardeners in Lackawanna County have information on fall leaves. For a free copy, contact us at 570 – 963 - 6842 or LackawannaMG@psu.edu and ask for a copy of “Backyard Leaf Composting”.


Steve Ward
Master Gardener Coordinator
Penn State Extension
Lackawanna County